Keith Addenbrooke

Hi there, to make it more realistic, one option would be to run the engine shed off the Centre road (using a single slip point if you’re familiar with them) rather than back from the goods sidings. As it is you might have to shunt wagons out of the way to get in and out of the engine shed: Just a thought. An idea some people use to help with scenic layouts is to angle the tracks so they’re not parallel with the baseboard edge. Even a two or three degree slant makes quite a difference visually if there’s room. Hope that helps, Keith.

An idle thought: is it a coincidence that Peco launched exactly 8 variants of the wagon - the precise number needed for a classic Inglenook shunting puzzle (per Alan Wright’s original)? Just a thought - given CJ Freezer’s promotion of the Inglenook concept. Have a good weekend, Keith. (PS: to any charge of unfounded speculation - Guilty!)

Thanks @Phil Parker, I think it looks stunning. RRP for the DC version of £167.99 seems very reasonable to me for a loco with this level of detail (Gaugemaster are taking preorders at £155.00 - other suppliers are available). Looks like a winner to me, Keith.

Time for a pause. When I began this thread almost a year ago, I wanted to move on from my earlier research oriented thread, Modelling the ATSF in 1970 in HO . I hoped to progress to layout building and am grateful to all who've contributed to this new thread, especially for patience when progress has been minimal (or even slower). I'm one of the least practical people you'll ever meet, so I was never likely to get much done quickly, even before various 'off-field' events slowed me down further (such as the damp walls on page 1). My grand ambitions and ideas haven't changed, but modelling for me primarily takes place between February and October, due simply to busyness in the run up to Christmas. So now is time for a pause. There is another reason. While I'm not changing jobs, we may be re-housed due to various issues with this property (not just the damp). Until it becomes clearer whether that can happen, it makes sense for me to focus on my other, smaller projects (that are less space-dependent). It may therefore be a while before I next update this thread. Obviously I'd hoped to get further than I have this year, but I've had fun and learnt a lot, which I hope may be of interest to others thinking about starting out. Thanks, Keith.

I'm not an expert track layer by any means, but I found a variation on the map pins technique I've been taught very effective: Track is aligned using standard drawing pins or map pins which can easily be moved until satisfied (I had more drawing pins): The drawing pins are then replaced with spare track pins that can be tapped down to rail height, allowing final testing with rolling stock and then weighting down in place. Pins are pulled out after glue has set: Hope it's OK by Paul for me to share this here, but as someone who personally doesn't enjoy track laying I found this technique was very effective. My track is 009, Keith.

I've not got any of these wagons yet, but my experience with Tillig TT with the same couplings was that they seemed to look more obvious ("worse") on a single piece of rolling stock, but a rake coupled up didn't look too obtrusive at all - I think the way the couplings overlap each other reduced the impact and I was impressed, Keith.

That one I got straightaway. We don't usually need much chlorine though.

Intriguing - do tell us more (do you have an overall shot, for example?), Keith.

Agreed - this is how I glue wider sheets if cork down: usually left for several days too (until the next modelling session). Not had any sheets lift yet despite my baseboards being regularly carried around the house / stored vertically: Less weight is used for track, Keith.

Very impressive smooth running - those 1 plank bolster wagons are very light and wouldn't be easy to add weight to (I don't find they need much: just the load seems to be enough for mine). Even more impressive however is the signal in the second video - nice 'bounce' as well as smooth operating and clear lighting. Excellent, Keith.

Next up, finishing the boxcars. The final task was to add the high brake wheels and (simplified) rods. I started with some left over thin styrene rod which was glued in place then cut to size (just needed scissors). Brake wheels are again trolley wheels from an old OO gauge luggage trolley I was given. The styrene rod seemed OK for the longer down section, but I had my doubts about the top part even when I was gluing them in place. After leaving them for the glue to dry they were still wobbly, so I used a 7mm (scale 2’) section of left over brass rod and superglue instead: First attempt: Second attempt: And finished - just a touch of black paint and a dab of grey weathering before the Peco trucks were clipped back into place: For a layout as small as the CAL, these freight cars (plus my Minitrains caboose) should be sufficient, at least for now: Finishing the craftsman Church kit now moves to the top of the list. Quite a lot to do on that still (mainly the roof). Have a good weekend, Keith.

Appears the wagons are now in shops. Couldn’t get to my local model shop today, but I do have an email advising my small initial pre-order (just 2 wagons) has been processed, Keith.

Weathering - one of those aspects of modelling that does rather terrify me. I figured the CAL tank car would be rather worn and dirty, so for the first time I’ve tried adding two layers of grime: first a simple base layer of light and dark grey: This doesn’t look right as it stands - the dirt seems to avoid the edges and joins, whereas in reality that’s often where it gathers first. The second coat of some indeterminate grimy green (actually olive yellow) remedies that and adds more on the top, where a tanker would probably be dirtiest: I also tried representing some streaks down the lower sides using a thinner brush. The technique is very simple - dry brushing which is then smeared a bit more with a piece of kitchen roll. Happy to call this one finished now, Keith.

Next step with the tanker was to add cables which I superglued in place under the chassis then painted black: The top inlet valve is a simple butterfly clip with the legs cut back and pressed into the cork. I used enamel paint for the cork in case water-based acrylic causes the cork to swell. Final step was to add some outlets taps pushed into holes made in the cork (N-Scale buffers saved from the same Kato 11-110 chassis mentioned previously). A dab of aluminium paint, reattach the bogies and we’re just about done: When all the paint has dried thoroughly I can weather the tank to finish, Keith.

Delighted you have a layout space - look forwards to seeing how it develops, Keith. (Great painting on the figures too of course)

I hadn’t looked at the picture in that way, but now you mention it - definitely. What stood out for me when I first looked at the photo was the empty highway on the left just behind the houses, suggesting more room was available (that street does look very narrow). I’m guessing that historically the town may have built up around and along the railroad track, which may have been the first thing there. Just a thought, Keith.

Thanks Andy. I've been thinking of manually changing stock on the scenic staging track between operating sessions. I only really need a single track for staging (except when running passenger trains as well as freight), as by the period I'm looking at many US Branch Lines / Industrial Spurs would only run a single train per day at most, and for short lines it can be far less than that - down to an 'on demand' only service. It's something I explored in my previous American thread focused on the Santa Fe and is a difference between US and UK branch line modelling (over here we tend to stretch the imagination and run a more varied service than would be realistic - served by a multi-track fiddle yard). Your idea adds character to that side of the layout. Perhaps the best (model) example I can think of is on Tom Johnson's Cass County HO model RR, an amazingly inspiring simple room-sized shelf layout. He has a blog on the American MRH forum - here is a link to his post about the loco tie up point: Tom Johnson's Cass County (on the MRH Forum) Thanks, Keith.

Thanks @AndyB, some useful thoughts as always. I’d not thought of including a loco tie-up point in the staging yard area, but I can think of several examples now that you mention it, perhaps with a small (portable) office and roadside access for a fuel tanker - and not only on shortline railroads. An interesting idea, thank you, Keith.

Thank you - I would never have thought of anything like that. As the grab iron fastening points on these scratch-aid kits are 5mm wide, a standard coffee stirrer is the right size too (maybe trim a little to allow for the width of the brass rod). While it would be a shame to melt the moulded fastening points, the end result would be better: look closely and my irons are generally resting against the car sides, whereas they should be clear of the sides for finger / toe holds. If I understand the technique correctly, the soldering iron is only pressed against the metal ‘staple’ - heat transfer does the rest? I wouldn’t rate my chances trying to hold a soldering iron against plastic, however briefly. Presumably a job to be done with the windows open? Thanks for the suggestion, Keith.

There is a suggestion on an American site that the owner of the archive sadly passed away earlier this year. I’m afraid I can’t verify this, but it would explain the situation. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I can’t access the site either, Keith.

While my practical modelling has shifted back to Narrow Gauge as planned, I’ve had time to try a more layout design ideas here too. Working with the actual baseboards, stock and structures (where built) is definitely helping me frame my ideas. I had a quick count and I’ve already taken more than 80 photos from different angles or of different arrangements - I’m not going to post them all here of course, but just wanted to show a flavour of what I’m learning in case it’s helpful. Perhaps most significantly, I’ve not started with the main boards - but with the other parts of the layout. I looked at the centre module first. As there are curved rail joints crossing the baseboard at each end, I think it makes sense to limit these to just one entry / exit point on each side: I did consider the suggestion made by @AndyB of using a lineside industry as a view blocker, with a curved switch for access to the spur, but I couldn’t get it to quite look right for me. As all the coupling / uncoupling on the through line would need to take place on a curve, my thinking at present is to keep this as a scenic baseboard. I then moved to the staging board on the left. I have three basic alternatives to the conventional 3-track staging yard I scoped out when measuring the baseboard for construction. The simplest is this one, based on an earlier mock up: A second one adds a switchback spur into the corner - which would add to the switching moves needed when operating: There is enough space for the switchback to operated without everything else getting clogged up as well. Finally, a run-round could be included in the same space if desired: As you can see from the photos, I’ve also tried various combinations of different industries. The card flat is for the Bud’s Trucking Kit I’ve bought. Personally, at the moment, my favourite is the simplest one with a single staging track and a single stub end spur. Before I consider my approach to the main boards, I think it’ll be useful to know what my thinking is for the staging side, so I can build in some balance to the design. I’ve already looked at ideas that use either more or less track and turnouts. There’s a trade off between operation and simplicity, and my current thinking is leaning towards simplicity - not cramming in all the track I can. It fits my current preferences when it comes to looking at other layouts and clearly scores well when it comes to achievability (so it could actually happen), but would I get bored? That pendulum is still swinging to be honest - the younger me would undoubtedly have gone for the maximum operation capability, but the older (wiser? - I doubt it) me is more interested in the simple approach and spending modelling time making things, not just running trains. One possible main line profile looks like this: Visually however, I’m thinking I’d prefer to have the Station building / Depot on the other side of the tracks, shown here in an earlier iteration: Some I know would decide much faster than me, and have something built already (many times over by now!), while others would call out my use of Peco Code 100 (UK / European) Flextrack as an obvious anomaly (fair point), but I am enjoying this phase of layout design - and with several narrow gauge models to complete am in no rush. Have a good week, Keith.

A lovely model - really makes me think I should add a Scottish BLT micro to my own layout bucket list! Hope the Covid doesn’t hit you too hard. Thanks for sharing the pictures - genuinely inspiring modelling, Keith.

Time to press on with my existing builds. I must admit that making and attaching 72 grab irons for my three box cars (6 per side - including ends - per car) wasn’t something I was looking forwards to. I’d saved the thin brass rod from some Dundas Coach kits to use (it was supplied for window bars, which I made with styrene instead): I used superglue to attach the rods to the painted plastic, but couldn’t avoid making a gobby messes of a few of them. At least they’re done now. Next step was to fit the roof to each car. I discovered I’d omitted to paint one edge of them, so there as a delay while the red paint dried. The edges were then dry brushed (after the photo was taken) to dull the red: Having experienced problems with a standard gauge boxcar where I needed to remove a roof, I’m trying to fix these just at the ends, using Glue ‘n’ Glaze rather than cement as the adhesive. Brake wheels are being donated from an old OO gauge station trolley from my bits box: On to the flat cars. Wooden sides were added to the second long car, and then the bases painted. While it was standard practice to hold the sides in tension with metal rods between the stanchions, I’ve also seen photos of cars without them, so have done without (as with my Mk1 gondola): I’ve gone for an olive yellow / green livery this time, based purely on the paint I have open and needing to use up. End rails are a bit small - they were cut off a pair of Kato 11-110 chassis so are actually N-scale. Given this, I attached the brake wheels to the sub-frames of these cars rather than the end rails, where they would be too low: Bogies are simply clipped in place through pre-drilled holes and these two are done: Finally, progress on the small flat car. I only had one more end rail in stock - also a spare from Dundas Coach kits. As this is to 4mm scale (albeit for a Ffestiniog-style coach), I could try and end rail brake wheel, again from a luggage trolley. The brake wheel and rod are superglued in place: I’ll see tomorrow how well the glue has dried, or if a rework is needed! The wine carrier tank has been glued in place, with a couple of wooden strips for stability. My plan is to add cables as well, but I’m leaving things as they are to dry overnight now: Unfortunately the writing on the other side is upside down, but after a few bottles of red, I don’t think anyone will mind. Have a good week, Keith.

Aha! That makes you one of the very few people who has actually seen me actually operating an exhibition layout at a show 😃 (I was just the lunchtime relief operator at Statfold). Good luck with the project - but beware: I find European modelling can get very addictive very quickly, whether in Standard Gauge or Narrow Gauge. Keith.

I had a Hobby version for a while - I would definitely say it was good value (esp. as I bought it used) and it ran well. There were headlights, but only the white ones in the direction of travel (no red at the rear). The key thing is whether the more basic detailing bothers you - eg: the side grills are clearly quite simple: Mine did come with a driver (always a nice touch, I feel); A lot depends on how close up you’re viewing your layout - in a larger scale (which I define as HO or above), the opportunity to model (or marvel at) the level of detail possible maybe runs contrary to the philosophy of these entry level models? I have noticed some retailers / eBay sometimes trade Expert level models at prices more akin to those I’d pay for a Hobby level product. While such bargains may be rare, and rely on a trader maybe not knowing all the subtleties, they can be worth looking out for. I certainly didn’t regret my purchase at all - as a ‘layout locomotive’ it was a nice addition to my small fleet. Hope that helps. Others will know more - especially about the Expert models. Keith.