Jump to content
 

peterfgf

Members
  • Posts

    375
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

peterfgf's Achievements

387

Reputation

  1. I have successfully run two Bachmann 4CEPs together, both fitted with ESU Lokpilot Standard decoders set to the same address. I think I was probably lucky (I would probably use Lenz Silver or Zimo decoders now). Peterfgf
  2. Adding to the experience in the previous posts. I had the same thing of finding a dead model after it had not run for a while. I took the body off, as described, and the loose decoder dropped out. The Next18 decoder doesn't seem to have a very secure fixing to stop it popping off. Very relieved to find it was a simple repair.
  3. Many thanks for the explanation of how Buxton Midland was shunted. I am building a layout, based on the station, and was puzzled about how goods trains were dealt with. I managed to arrive at a plan something similar to yours, but much shorter (compromise between what is wanted and what is possible). My engine shed roads lead back off the turntable so that they are more or less parallel with the station.
  4. I've emailed Rails to ask what decoder will be used, who did the sound file, and which locomotive/engine was used for sound recording as I think there are no sound recordings of British Class 28s. However, Irish and Australian railways have locomotives with Crossley 2-stroke engines. Waiting expectantly for a reply! Peterfgf
  5. I've found the lights are bright. The accompanying instructions from YouChoos says the lights can't be dimmed, but a look at the Zimo MS sound instructions suggests CV60 is the one that will change the intensity. It gives the following examples for values of CV60 Full voltage 0 or 255 2/3 volts 170 80% volts 204 Mine was received with CV60 set to 50, so well down at 20% full voltage. I haven't had a chance to change the value yet , so "buyer beware"! Peterfgf
  6. I would strongly suspect a cracked gearwheel. These cracks are radial, propagating form the centre, and are difficult to see with naked eye. Having said that, I've just taken apart a Hornby 5MT which I suspected had the same problem (same as my Rebuilt Patriot). I couldn't see any cracks but I did clear out an excess of stiff grease. Loco runs fine now. Going off a tangent. I can't understand why manufacturers use grease to lubricate gears. Prototype gears, for example marine gearboxes, are lubricated by oil and only a thin film of oil (microns) is needed to separate the teeth. Grease is handy on exposed machinery or non-tight oil boxes but not in this type of gearing.
  7. I think Decoder Pro has an "identify button". I also have a Zimo decoder test rig. Both are very good and recommended. Peterfgf
  8. They are very good. I fitted one to a Hornby LMS brake second without a problem. The etch sides matched the coach side profile perfectly. Peterfgf
  9. Class 124 for me as well. Good looking and long lived. Bachmann could easily do a Midland 2F 0-6-0 which I would snap up. OO Works did a 2F a while ago but I've never seen a second-hand one (apart from Hattons "sold" category). Peterfgf
  10. Many thanks for the advice. I've been wanting one for years and have just placed an order. (I'll place another if they do a rerun of the Midland 2Fs) Peterfgf
  11. I made one similar to these years ago in an apprentice shop: https://www.axminstertools.com/hand-tools/marking-measuring-levels/centre-finders Peterfgf
  12. Thanks. I didn't know that but I suppose I should have guessed that manufacters shuffle yesterday's best products down the line. A bit like BR rolling stock. Peterfgf.
  13. I wouldn't bother with Lokpilot Basic decoder. The clue is in the name. I used a few several years ago but the performance of later decoders far outstrips them. Peterfgf
  14. This appears to be a standard Bachmann 21-pin mounting plate. My annotated diagram (attached) suggests the following (as a starting poin): L1 and L2 are the motor pins L- and R+ are the track pins Don't worry about other pins. These are for fitting the DC noise supression resistors and capacitors. The two larg solder tabs sticking out at one side are for the speaker (SP+ and SP-). If you are not intending to swop tenders, then the wiring of the connection between loco and tender is up to you, so long as both sides are consistent. I have standardised on Motor/Track/Track/Motor and then it doesn't matter too much. Polarity is swopped around without a problem. I hope this helps. Peterfgf
×
×
  • Create New...