Nova Scotian

Thank you. There are a couple of "starter kits" out there, and from a position of ignorance I'd have thought they'd be relatively popular as when one is starting out one doesn't know the difference between the different wheel/gearbox manufacturers etc - nor have a particular leaning toward compensation/springing, pick-ups etc. Getting something that folds together, solders and runs would be a massive confidence boost to being able to get into that stuff. I donated some of my tools when I crossed the pond, as there were concerns about shipping cost (stupid thing to do), and obviously anything electronic is a problem as we're 110v here. Then a few I'd built up on the larger side of things I probably left in my divorce (bit of a hurry to get out!) - so it's only now that I have most of the tools for being able to take a decent crack at plastic kits again. It's why I was now looking for whether I could make an expensive leap to brass! I raised IKEA because some of their more complex builds, while still all turning out the same, still involve following instructions with a relatively set list of parts. For the first-time build something more like this would be ideal until I'm confident enough to tinker.

Yeah, sorry about that. OO is the sensible choice; cheaper, good availability (esp of plastic kits), and goes with the RTR stuff I already have. O is the siren call, and the various sales have sorely tempted me (I keep looking at the Heljan 05s at 175GBP and drooling. I've done a few plastics kits; some ratio coaches (but need to order some metal wheels from the UK (or one of the links you shared) before I can continue to work on them), some of the old Dapol kits etc. Pin vices is a good call - I've not been using and should get. Thanks for those four links; extremely helpful. I had not come across britishmodeltrains somehow, not sure how I missed it in my various googling over time. They have many of the bits I need (including cheapish wheels) where I can order from Canada. Greatly appreciated. This is my local shop and it has some humbrol paints, some scenecraft etc, but doesn't cover off anything on the brass side or really anything useful for UK https://maritimehobbies.ca/

Book suggestions: Anything by Iain Rice is worth having if only because of his writing style. Bob Essery is another prolific author who specializes in MR and LMS. Technical books that include works drawings are very useful. Geoff Kent's three volumes on the 4mm Wagon are very good indeed. There are lots of prototype pictures and I still use these even though I'm on 0 gauge. The 4mm Coal Wagon by John Hayes is an omnibus. Starter kit suggestions: - A couple of Parkside wagon kits in your chosen scale. You can build brass underframes, brakes, etc if you're handy with a soldering station and get some soldering experience at the same time! - Judith Edge Hunslet 230hp 0-4-0 DH - Tower Models (Blackpool) do 2 starter kits in their Tower Collection; an Andrew Barclay 0-4-0ST and an 02 Diesel Shunter, both are £250, and both are complete with motor, wheels, etc, just add paint! - Branchlines chassis and detailing kits - Budget Model Railways - 3D printed bodyshells to fit on RTR chassis. They are not prototypical, but cheap and easy eg 4 wheel diesel shunter body for £15 to go on a cheap RTR chassis. - for 0-16.5, try also A1 Models who do 3D printed bodies to go on RTR chassis. - for something bigger, try IP Engineering, their Ezee range of kits is inexpensive, eg a complete train and circle of light duty track for £100. - SEF Finecast (with caution) - Smallbrook studios (O-16.5mm) - Comet chassis Tool suggestions: a knife such as Olfa files (diamond ones, or a pack of mini files from your local discount store) a sanding stick (ladies nail files can be useful) a couple of pin vices. 0.020" and 0.032" drills useful Testors gel liquid solvent. fiberglass brush very useful Cocktail sticks Wooden clothes pegs - carve to shape as required Scotchbrite Coffee stir sticks Paper cups = disposable for paint mixing Bulldog clips Paper clips - a handy source of iron wire Blu-Tak Barbecue bamboo skewers 12 inch ruler in my chosen scale and a good 6 inch ruler Swann Morton scalpel handle, a pack of 10a blades, and a little whetstone to resharpen blades Pair of smooth jawed needlenose pliers and a small pair of flush cutters - Xuron makes lovely ones 6 inch medium cut file, flat or half round. Use this only on brass! A good little set square. Seriously. It is the tool of 1001 uses. A little box for all the above and a cutting mat. ______________________________________________________ Good evening Due to COVID-19 I am spending much more of my time in my house without my trains than my apartment where I had begun to build a layout for my kids in OO. Note; this makes it sound like I'm rather well off with two residences; I'm divorced, my kids are 4 hours away and I have a small apartment near them, and my partner pays the mortgage on our shared house because child support! ANYWAY I'm fascinated by the skill of kit and scratch builders on this forum. I remember some of my father's Keyser kits, which always looked better on the box than the whitemetal lump I saw inside. Kits at model railway exhibitions as a kid ranged from "how do they make it look so amazing" to "stuttering wobbly lopsided coffee grinder". As I am unable to progress with building the layout for the kids for at least a couple more months I want to have a go at some starter kits and see if I have any aptitude. It gives me the opportunity to build some oddballs that I really like, and I'm also quite interested in trying some different configurations if I get good. A bit of a mechanical tinkerer. These questions have certainly been asked before, and when I searched through the forum I found pieces of what I'm looking for, but nothing comprehensive and it was spread out over the different scales. I'm hoping you may all have some advice that I can potentially drop into this first post (at the top) as some guidelines for newbies such as myself. The question is in two parts: 1. What starter kits are good value, well designed and likely to have a decent outcome? 2. What tools are needed to be successful without resorting to ingenuity I lack in the build? bonus 3rd: I have an unnatural attraction to O gauge, but the cost again seems so much higher, should I suck it up and go big? Breaking these down further: 1. Many of the kits I've looked at for locomotives really start to add up, even in OO, when you add wheels and motor/gearbox. A 100GBP kit quickly becomes 250GBP. My assumption for a starter kit would have been that an 0-4-0 or 0-6-0 and likely either diesel or inside motion steam would be ideal. This avoids coupling rods and wheelbases being too long, and the idea of outside motion valve gear etc terrifies me. I am drawn to brass, but should I be open to whitemetal? I am a competent airfix plastic model builder. I've done some of the older Dapol ones too, which are good fun, and I was reasonably successful (other than one dry-run slipup that means my 05 wheels will never turn...). I am a spectacular IKEA furniture builder. Who provides decent instructions, preferably with photos? DJH seems to do full colour photos, Judith Edge seem decent? Highlevel are extremely wordy, and my knowledge of various running gear components is only so-so, which is why diagrams help. In terms of what's available I really like some of the Judith Edge industrial diesels, and I follow Michael's posts on here. I will start with a couple of wagons, as everyone suggests. Who does decent, reasonable brass kit wagons in OO? I'm not focused on one region or era; covering anything from 1923- mid 60s would probably be the most useful in the long run. I have an affection for SR steam and Western Hydraulics, but I don't really care too much. If there's an opportunity to build L&YR stock that could be fun for something I have planned way down the road. For the loco - where should I go, what should I do? The highlevel Barclay looks like the best value as all the pieces are there, which is not to be sniffed at given how much wheels and motors/gearboxes now seem to be retailing for. It's especially important to me as I'd prefer to have everything in one box to ease customs, import, ordering, postage etc. I'm Canada based. I'm also not exactly knowledgeable, so knowing which axle, which wheel design, why one won't quarter properly on a whatyamacallit axle with a 1.5m driveshaft etc etc. I would like to have something I can put together, that fits with some fettling, where I can see if I have aptitude and can learn the intricate pieces on from there. Unless there's an O gauge shunter kit that I should be looking at??????? Just not 475GBP with a questionable reputation like the DJH Class 14.... The DJH 03 starter kit has been discontinued. 2. I have little to no equipment. I have looked at soldering irons, of course Canada makes this bloody difficult as it's all third party resellers through large online multi-billion pound blood-sucking enterprises. However, I have found some retailers that can ship mostly reasonably, or have local supply, of Weller. I can order Hakko too. I figure I need 60W, or is that overkill? Adjustable heat settings, right? That gets up to about $175 before tax, so 115GBP with tax. Then a couple of different temperatures of solder and some flux? What type of flux? Dremels? Is it worth getting a chassis jig? I have no idea how to tap a screw, or what a 12db (??) screw is. All the wonderful kit builders on here seem to have various rods, screws, bolts etc on hand. How does one replicate that starting from scratch, and does one need to? Some of you turn brass on the lathe, I can't imagine for a newbie that's going to be something I can handle or afford? Files, stanley knife, cutting mat etc I have from plastic kit building. Paint etc I'm not too worried about as I'll deal with that when I get to it. I used an airbrush 15 years ago, they can't have changed that much! (BADGER BADGER BADGER BADGER) So, long question short; what's kit is needed to get started properly? I've seen a few different books recommended - it's hard to search through the forums, so if anyone does recommend a book/booklet I'll drop those into the top of this post too. If I can get the equipment and kits within my budget, I am sure I'll be back asking for specific advice on building. Thank you everyone for your help. If this exists somewhere already feel free to point me in the direction of it with a gentle "pi$$ off" and I'll be merrily on my way

Occasionally I share with my partner an interesting modelling technique someone from RMWEB has used. She almost always asks "is it that man who built the real thing and is now building that really detailed model?" I think that's intended as a compliment; as I only mention good modelling to her and each time she assumes it's you

Wrenn rolling stock (ex-dublo), pretty sure it was on more recent track. That said, it's been at least a year, probably more, since I saw the user and I remember searching for them a while ago and thinking they may have deleted their instagram account. All the buildings and trackside etc seemed "of the period", and I'm guessing were probably Triang and the like?

28,500 self-identified in Nova Scotia as French first language Not quite NB's number, as the only officially bilingual province, but we're prettier and the Chiac spoken around Moncton barely passes pour le francais nest pas?

The gent disappeared from Instagram more than a year ago now, but there used to be someone on there who posted videos often daily of an extensive Wrenn layout. Pretty much everything was Wrenn and it was a well used layout (no shelf queens etc). No idea where he disappeared to, but piqued my interest at the time because it seemed like an interesting choice to lock into one period and manufacturer based on what was likely nostalgia. I have to say it looked really good, and had an appeal for me. I remember my father's heavy Wrenn locos as opposed to the 80s/90s Hornby/Lima etc and they've got character.

Something failed to fly out of the way of that second IEP in time...

Ugh. I just spent massive amounts of money this weekend, and am now having to fight the urge to buy the Lyme Regis pack. That's a fantastic price. Not a "bargain" as such based on RRSP, but most places seem to be sold out of the Rocket pack, Chester Models are listing as still in stock (I have not called to confirm if true). Given prices these are going on ebay, it probably counts as a bargain? https://chestermodelcentre.com/railway/trains-sets-train-packs/r3810-liverpool-and-manchester-railway-stephensons-rocket-train-pack

Feel free to share links

Sent the Eurostar to my father, he gifted himself for father's day Thanks Jim! And so I don't get yelled at for not following the rules - here's Hornby R3919 PD Ports Class 66, 66109 'Teesport Express' for 55 GBP. Bure Valley Models http://www.burevalleymodels.com/p/17266/R3919---PD-Ports-Class-66-Co-Co-66109-Teesport-Express - six (6) available at time of posting. No connection to BVM, but previously happy customer and that seems like a cracking price for a new 66, I can't see it anywhere else cheaper.

I counted eight, then had to zoom in to find the ninth!

Canada is a massive place, thank you very much It costs me about 10-12 quid a time for postage within Canada buying anything. The parcel rates are comparatively high. My guess is the amount stated is so high because it includes insurance etc, which on $900 would be a significant amount. Our system is a little overwhelmed at the moment too - I've been waiting 25 days for a loco from Ontario. It was 6 weeks for an IKEA order. International mail is either "surprisingly fast" or "we thought it had got lost it took that long". I once got my birthday card (early March birthday) from a family member before I got the Christmas card. 3-4 weeks for a parcel from Canada to the UK is typical.

Not sure if this is ebay madness, or collector madness https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Very-Rare-Triang-Tri-ang-Hornby-CP-Rail-car/254625634755?hash=item3b48ded9c3:g:TdQAAOSwiX9e3TRX#viTabs_0 Over 500 quid for a Triang truck. Nope.

Thank you - that is quite disappointing given the likely volume, and thus revenue, from those fees. The only real exposure I've had to brand standards we were far more focused on quality assurance (eg. that the branding was applied correctly and was representative) than on squeezing a few more cents out of a sunk cost.

Any idea why the Go Transit are more expensive? Seems like an odd difference, unless there's a difference in tooling I can't see?

This has gone on too long - why are they still failing so regularly?

Everyone is bored sitting around; so more people indulging and prepared to pay the big bucks for what they need next.

The 755 looks so much better. Better resolved front-end design. I've been disappointed in their troubles during introduction because they are one of those classes that to me just "looks right". If it looks right it should go right too. It might be a trick of the angle, but the floor looks much lower, so it looks less top heavy.

Yeah - it's a real problem how constrained the rail network is for space in Halifax. I can't imagine it works to send it as far as Bedford for a loop. Push/pull set probably technologically not feasible? Would also upset the dome customers. As can see a time when they decide downtown is too difficult, like they did in Saint John, and move to a pre-fab station just outside the city. Passenger numbers drop further; then the service goes away. Ugh. Depressing.

Correct - New Brunswick has closed its borders to non-essential travel. Stranding me in a separate province to my children (I usually travel between the two). Nova Scotia is interviewing all arrivals and you have to self-isolate for 2 weeks. PEI and NL seem to have very strict rules. The Ocean had already had its service halved a few years ago, this will probably spell the end. Which is very disappointing as I've been trying to figure out a way to make a trip on it work; but the schedule is awful for when I have meetings in Quebec City or Montreal, and I always end up flying. Be nice to claim to have sat/slept in a Nightstar MK4 - just on the wrong continent. The only ray of hope is that typically their business picks up in the run up to Christmas, and they may be tempted to reinstate for that period. Much easier to socially distance from other passengers in a sleeper cab rather than crammed into a Q400 - if they had decent wifi onboard, ran a better schedule and did some track upgrades (reduce time, allow you to turn around quicker on a return), they may pick up those no longer wanting to travel by air.

I'd like to see greater modularity. Locomotive class with two main variants, a shorter Bo-Bo and a longer Co-Co. They'd share cabs, control software and just about everything possible. The Co-Co would have four "sleds" for equipment, the Bo-Bo would have three. Multi-use, multi-functional jack of all trades locos to replace the remaining 47s, 37s, 73s and all legacy etc. For that reason you'd be looking at axle loadings of 17t, and can ballast to 20t. Leave higher weights to the 60s/66s/70s of the world. All would be capable of push-pull. You'd want to designate the Co-Co more as freight, with the Bo-Bo more for higher speed mixed traffic. To make the Co-Co useful you ensure a short wheelbase and maybe a radial steered bogie to reduce flange wear. Co-Co would have three options: Power option: Four V12 MTUs (an an example, say 700-900hp engines) installed on sleds that can be pulled in and out of the loco body for rapid repair and replacement. Gives 3000hpish for freight usage, or 2400ish for passenger with hotelling power. Electronic control shuts off the powerunits not in use as and when needed, under light load, running light engine etc. Rural routes option: 3 diesel engines as above on the sleds, one battery pack. Peak HP can be 3000hp plus for rapid (but brief) acceleration, with 2000ish hp continuous power, at least 1500 if hoteling. Bi-mode: 1 diesel engines on sled, one batter pack, and the space for the other two used up with electrickery required to run off OHLE. Bo-Bo would also have three options: High speed mixed traffic: Three diesel engines on sleds. DMU replacement; two diesel engines, one battery sled, operate rural push-pull services for on-hire companies (eg - you're not operating the franchise full-time with them, but can bring them in when other classes are out of service). High speed mixed traffic with last mile capability Bi-mode: 1 diesel engine on sled, and the space for the other two used up with electrickery required to run off OHLE. Advantages: - Peak power is only used for relatively short periods, with long periods of low or trailing throttle; shutting down engines to reduce pumping losses and only turning on the power units you need makes a lot of sense - Rapid repair and overhaul of powerunits being able to disconnect and slide right in and out - Standard parts for inventory control - Standard cabs for training Disadvantages: - Complex control systems - Four small engines is more expensive than one big one - Still assumes diesel is main power source - UK likely does not have the volume to generate sufficient orders for such a family of locos. You'll notice I think diesel still has life in it; it's going to be very difficult to identify anything with the energy density of diesel, to produce high power in a compact package with long range and high reliability in a way that diesel can. Problem here is that sticking a new traction package in an old loco is cheaper, and you don't need to meet the same emissions standards. So you're not going to be able to get firms to drop their 73 for a new fangled loco. The UK's weight restrictions are not seen as much across Europe; so a nice 17t axle load that can handle the sharp curves of the west highland way is great for us, but apparently not many other places.

This project has been going a few months less than the amount of time I've been with my partner (that is not a criticism!). She knows exactly what "thread" I'm referencing when I excitedly try and tell her about what you've done this time. I'm always in awe of your ingenuity and ability to craft something new out of just about anything. The methodology for the top of the bar turned out brilliantly; and others you've come up with along the way are inspired.

Is the tender attachment causing weight transfer off the driving wheels? (additionally checking the running of wheels on the tender to make sure they're free running). Other forums make reference to overtighting of screws of the body to the chassis causing traction issues - and on older models issues with the keeper plate.

Is sawing lead weights wise? Isn't that going to cause airborne particulates?