Silverfox17

What have you set the wheels to, 12mm, 13.5mm or 14.2mm? I don't know how the flanges will cope on track as they are very fine but I suppose on finescale track they might be okay.

I have often wondered why these manufacturers dont produce a British Outline loco but guess their prices would put many off especially as they would have to make larger wheels etc to suit 1:100 as opposed to the European 1:120.

With a few spare A1A bodies I thought I would have a go at D5579 as new delivered to BR in Ochre livery. Attempt 1 was to try to mask off the original lining and use Precision Golden Ochre, but, that was no good as even low tack masking tape pulled the lining off and also the colour. Trying to hand paint the lining was not successful either as it was all freehand. Attempt 2 was to strip, use a primer, then a car colour. Unfortunately there were no car colours anywhere near the shade, in fact the only "browns" were metallic. I did find a general purpose colour called Ochre with a lid shade close but the paint was not, too light. Attempt 3 was a strip, prime, and brush paint the Precision colour on. This has worked well and Fox lining used. Railtec transfers are now ordered. Two bodies are actually the same colour but the lighting has made all 3 different. I may use the light one as the well faded version.

Is this from a kit or scratchbuilt?

This railbus was ready to run, the body and windows are 3D printed by Lincoln-locos, who make the chassis's too. They also do the Park Royal (Airfix) but not the windows for it yet. Lincoln-locos make over 60 3mm bodies from railbus/DMU/electric/diesel/steam.

Another TT rtr loco, this time also painted. This is a project from Lincoln-locos and Martin Olley.

Another TT rtr loco, this time even painted. A 3D railbus project by Lincoln-locos and Martin Olley.

I admire you for even thinking of using the wheels and axles, all my Atlas conversions have a Tri-ang chassis in. I have an Atlantic, SR H2, and as you say the flanges are very close together. It is fitted with Romford TT wheels which were too fine for what I wanted but 00 would not fit as the flanges would foul each other.

My Stirling single would not take a motor possibly smaller than your La France so I fitted a Halling bogie into the tender body. I have motorised a few Atlas bodies but with Tri-ang TT chassis's.

Due to the chassis wheels still being wet it looks as if the body was not seated properly, looks a lot better now. I may just pack up the tender body about 1mm and see how she looks.

There was not much space for cab numbers but managed to squeeze mine in, pity it had no 1's in. The colour photo in SR days shows even 4 was a lot. Just need to line the firebox next to the cab and the cylinders then fit the nameplates and she is nearly finished. I may have to fit some larger tender wheels to lift the tender body, or, the loco body might not be fully down. It is a pity I could not get smaller tender lettering but N gauge was far too small. Still need to find the bogie and opposite side crosshead.

Here are some more TT, 3mm, transfers Steve scaled down earlier this year. This time for Prestwn Silo wagons. The sheet has enough for a few wagons, and also, for two different versions. Garry

The Duke and an Atlantic coming along.

Earlier this year I came across Railtec transfers via a friend and since then only used them for loco numbering. I model TT (3mm) and therefore used to try to use 00 of different heights to get a reasonable version. It still left me with lining up numbers but Steve at Railtec has solved all this. They produce a range of 3mm and the bespoke cab numbers are brilliant with a very quick turn around, usually 24 hours. It is fantastic to get any number I require and not worry about the hassle of not only lining them up but spacing out evenly, it is now one transfer with the full number I want. I recently asked if he could reproduce his 3D waterslide transfers in 3mm which Steve has done. Here is a Deltic nameplate, GWR cab plate (notice the red lining and 4 bolt holes) and some smokebox numbers. Very impressed and very helpful for 3mm modelling. Thanks Steve Garry

A Deltic 3D transfer and WR cab plate 3D transfer in situ.

Just received some of the 3D transfers from Railtec and initial impression is very, very good. I will be trying some out shortly. Even the WR cab numberplates can be supplied lined or unlined. These sets do come with shed plates and coloured route indicators although they are really to small to read they will at least show something is there.

The green King is coming along nicely. Just needs cab numbers and a new proper copper chimney making.

Got a nice resin diesel brake tender to go with one of the diesel fleet. I may have some LNER bogies I can fit which will look better.

Got an Atlantic working I bought a few years ago. I had to fit a new motor with one of my gearboxes and works well now. The original coupling and connecting rods were far too thin and useless (strange considering the quality of the loco) and by good luck the wheelbase matched a Tri-ang Brit so cut a couple of those down and fitted the con rod the the crosshead. Even the tender frames are 1/16" brass. She is now stripped ready for a repaint.

Got a Shapeways 3D printed 2 Bil unit and WR railcar to add to the fleet.

The latest bodyshell from Lincoln-locos is for the Duke of Gloucester and is designed to fit a Tri-ang Brit/M-N chassis. Here it is on a full Brit chassis but I do have one somewhere without the ancillary parts which will be more suitable. There will be a tender shortly to go with it.

The latest bodyshell from Lincoln-locos is for the Duke of Gloucester and is designed to fit a Tri-ang Brit/M-N chassis. Here it is on a full Brit chassis but I do have one somewhere without the ancillary parts which will be more suitable. There will be a tender shortly to go with it.

This Atlantic I bought a few years ago and never worked with the motor jumping out of mesh and the coupling rods too fine for use. I decided to fit a Mashima in one of my gearboxes and look at new rods. As it happens the wheelbase was identical to a Tri-ang Brit/M-N so I cut a couple down, also, I could use a Tri-ang connecting rod to the crosshead and as you can see she runs well now although I need to find the bogie. I have now stripped her ready for a repaint and the construction is very good, even the tender frames are 1/16" brass.

Not this time, this is from Shapeways as is the 2Bil unit.

Managed a little work on the railcar. Just needs the roof painting and number transfers. I tried to fit the DMU chassis I was using for the brass one but cutting and grinding the plastic frame did not work so will have to make a new one. Therefore, not decided on whether to use the original Tri-ang DMU power and trailing bogies from the brass one or a Halling. The cream stripe should be one continuos line but due to the angled ends a transfer would not lay flat so will touch up the gaps with paint.