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Posts posted by Steve Hewitt
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2 hours ago, RailWest said:
They look nice - but one small question, why the white weights please?
Hi Chris,
The short answer is "Visibility". Easier to see in dark conditions - particularly wartime.
Still used today by Network Rail in places.
Steve.
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Happy New Year to all my RMweb followers.
I hope I'm able to stimulate your continued interest in the signals I build and if my ramblings encourage some of you "have go", so much the better.
Here is my first project for 2020 - the semaphore signals for Tony Teague's "Churminster & Stowe Magna" railway.
Here's a link to his Topic:
A very good article about Tony's layout appears in the current issue of Hornby Magazine.
My contribution is going to be the Semaphore signalling - the colour light signals have already bee installed.
Starting first with Churminster, where all the signalling is semaphore, the first to be built is the Platform 3 Up Starter.
This is an ex-LSWR tall lattice signal with co-acting arms, converted to Upper quadrant operation.
I have already posted a few "work in progress" shots on Tony's topic
Here a few shots of the completed model, with a short video to follow (don't hold your breath).
You can see here how the co-acting effect is achieved. The operating wire passes through the lower weight bar and continues
up to the upper weight bar, ensuring they both move together and by an equal amount.
Very careful measuring of the links between the weight bars and the their signal arms is necessary to ensure both arms are parallel.
More soon...
Steve.
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On 26/12/2019 at 19:15, Tony Teague said:
Review of 2019: 4. Infrastructure
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The two areas concerned will have semaphore signals which have yet to be installed but it is likely and feasible for the interlocking to be implemented prior to the signals (of which more later) being installed.
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In the final post of this review of 2019 progress I will cover scenery and buildings.
Tony
Hi Tony,
Here's a little taster of what's to come in 2020.........
This is the Platform 3 Up Starter.
Its a tall ex-LSWR lattice post with co-acting arms, necessary because of sighting over the footbridge.
These work-in-progress shots were taken a while ago now, so I'll show some later shots when I can.
They will probably be on my "Semaphore Signals" topic elsewhere on RMweb.
Best wishes for 2020.
Steve.
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Hi Jon,
I heard second hand that Geoff Helm (Helmsman) had passed all his stock of the LEDs to Peco.
I was going to try to buy any stock he had left!
I then contacted Peco via their website with the following:
"For many years I have used "Gaslight" LEDs from Helmsman Electronics to illuminate my Semaphore Signals.
I understand that you have taken on Helmsman's products, and would like to know when these LEDs will be available for purchase.
Kind regards,
Steve Hewitt."
Peco responded with:
"Dear Mr Hewitt
Thank you for your email
At present we are in the changeover period from Helmsman to Peco, and we are aiming to start reintroducing parts of the Helmsman range in the first few months of 2020. We cannot advise which items will be released first, but should have a clearer picture early next year, and we will be announcing details after this.
Kind regards
A Beard"
I think it might be a good idea for all users of these LEDs, which I believe Geoff Helm had specially made, were to make similar inquiries of Peco, to encourage them to get them back on sale asap. There are certainly several who follow my Topic who have followed my advice and used them.
All the best for Christmas,
Steve.
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13 hours ago, Phil Bullock said:
So a couple of queries for those with appropriate knowledge and expertise please....
Spectacle lenses - has anyone found an easy way to glaze them? Does glue and glaze work perhaps ?ANd the WR signal posts were a silvery grey - have been looking for a colour match but no joy yet - can anyone advise please?
Cheers
Hi Phil,
I glaze the spectacles with MSE glazing.
I punch out the correct size disc with a "leather punch".
Fix with Clear Glaze or any PVA glue to rear of spectacle.
When dry, cover front face of each spectacle with Clear Glaze or Gloss varnish.
(This ensures the glazing is fixed securely.)
If you need to colour any clear glazing, use "Glass Paint" which is available in Craft Shops etc.
For later WR signal posts, try "Aluminium" paint.
Good luck,
Steve.
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Here's one I made previously..........
I recently completed a few more signals for Carlisle, which included a Banner Repeater.
This was unusual in that it will be installed on an existing Signal Gantry which already carries Colour Light signals.
The signal is made from an MSE kit, but I turned a more robust bezel as the etched one in the kit is a bit of a fiddle to use.
I also illuminated this signal with three tiny LEDs, buried in the white metal casting.
The signal is mounted on a piece of copper clad to facilitate its installation on the existing gantry.
Double sided adhesive tape on the underside of the copper clad will allow the signal to be fixed in place on the Gantry.
To simulate the Gantry, and its height above rail level, I used a piece of MDF.
The copper clad carries the fine wires from the LEDs in a conduit of brass tube.
The Banner is operated by a servo motor mounted under the baseboard in the usual way, with a crank mounted on the copper clad to transfer the wire pull along the Gantry.
You can see the 30k resistor in the heat shrink which gives a much less intense light than would otherwise be the case.
I have a few very shaky video clips on my phone, which I'll try to edit together and post on YouTube...........don't hold your breath.
Steve.
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2 hours ago, hayfield said:
Steve
Hello and ever since I had the pleasure of both seeing the layout and speaking with most of the team members at the Watford Finescale show (quite a few years ago) I have enjoyed seeing the progress you all have made with the layout
Regarding the cosmetic chairs, I was told by some club members (previous club) who model in P4 that the C&L chairs were designed to fit over the rivets (they have a hole in the base), certainly with the P4 layout the club had to replace the odd one which had come off new chairs were just cut in half and stuck on. I see that rivets can be bought in 1.5 mm & 2 mm head diameter is it this which causes the issue and or the reduced EM track gauge causing a slight offset on the heads?
I also was very impressed with the method used in moving the switch blades, which is clearly visible in photo 1
Lime Street and Pendon are the yard sticks I judge other layouts by,
Praise indeed, mentioned alongside Pendon.
Steve.
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More on the detailing of the trackwork..............
I've quoted below a post from 2013 which explains how John prepares and fits the C&L chairs to the track.
The track was originally built about 2003, before the C&L method was available - certainly in "4-bolt" LMS design.
(Couldn't possibly have used "3-bolt" GWR chairs, which were the first style available.)
On 27/12/2013 at 19:54, Steve Hewitt said:It's not all sitting around drinking tea.....
I called on John today to drop off the buffers.
He showed me the work he's been doing (and still has to do!)
This shot shows the extent of the track detailing he's going to tackle before we put up the other boards.
The brown colour of the unpainted chairs shows what he's completed.
Simple enough?
Here's How...
John explained:
These pictures show the process for using the C&L chairs as cosmetic chairs on track built using the rivet and ply method, rather than building the track with these chairs.
(Lime St. track was already well advanced when the C&L track system was first marketed).
1) A standard chair as broken off the sprue.Each sprue has 10 chairs moulded on, 5 L/handed, and 5 R/handed.2) The chair has been cut in two close to the part of the chair that butts up to the outside of the rail. (Side with the key).3) The chair has now been cut in three. ( Cutting away the centre section that would normally go under the rail).The two outer parts are now fitted to each side of the running rails, glued in position using Butanone to fix them.4) A pile of chairs, they still have to have the centre sections cut away.There's a box with another few hundred sprues in stock.
Other bits of trivia !!The outside chairs (The halves with the keys), are fitted so as to alternate left and right on bi-directional track as seen on the attached pictures, but on uni-directional track they are all fitted in the opposite direction to that the trains travel in. The reason for that is that the vibration of a train travelling along the track as the train moves along is supposed to tighten the keys in their chairs rather than loosen them. (That's what I was told anyway!)Where rails converge chairs are partly cut away to allow them to fit between rails, and in some cases they are bonded together to represent cast double chairs.I have gone through at least two thousand chairs so far with still a great deal to do. And that is all before we even think about ballasting point rodding and barrow ways.Hope the above is of use,Cheers,John.This is the result:
This is "Chaired" track.
And with Fishplates added.
Then there's the point rodding, ballasting, barrow crossings .......
Steve.
This is a subject to which John returns whenever there is a period where the layout is partly dismantled. Close access is necessary for this fine work.
Steve.
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Sorry its been a bit quiet on here for a month or so.......
First, LMS2968, you are correct about the "Artistic Licence", but not sure its just "a little".
Following our late but unavoidable withdrawal from the Wigan show, I'm pleased to report that John has been back in the "Shed" and is continuing his "elephant task" of detailing the trackwork.
This involves adding Chair detail, Point Rodding and Ballasting.
This photo shows part of the Station Throat trackwork as it has been since Chris first laid it many years ago.
It is constructed with rivets through the sleepers to which the rail is soldered.
First John has to grind away the sides of each rivet to give space for cosmetic "half chairs" to be fixed.
The white line is a guide for the Point Rodding, which will be constructed before Ballasting is done.
It has to be removed in sections for Ballasting to done and painted, and then re-installed.
Because the track is all "bi-directional" alternate chairs have to be fixed with the wooden wedge in opposite directions.
Cosmetic Fishplates are also fixed in place.
As you can imagine, a very time consuming process, but one you'll see the benefit of when we take the layout to Bristol next year..........
Steve.
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That's lovely Jon, please let me know when you reduce the etches to 4mm scale.
Steve.
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1 hour ago, Tony Teague said:
Steve
Have you considered using dry ice as used with disco lighting and by photographers - no oily residue.
Tony
Thanks Tony.
In a word, "no".
Not sure whats involved in obtaining, storing, transporting and using it.
Steve.
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A Testing Time or Smoke Without fire..........
Last Thursday I was able to take the chimney to John's for a trail installation prior to it going to Rob for painting.
This is the Smoke generator John has made.
It has a "Vaping" heating element to boil the Smoke Oil, and a Fan to assist the draughting up the chimney.
The larger of the two brass tubes I made locates the chimney on the baseboard, and the smoke unit on its shelf below.
The smaller diameter tube is fixed into the base of the chimney, and slides into the larger tube.
The chimney is then fixed onto the base, with the tube giving accurate location and strength to the join.
It me and the camera leaning, not the chimney.
From the viewing side of the layout, we can see the first "test firing"
We are left with two concerns.
1. The smoke isn't very visible and requires a deflector of some kind in the top of the chimney to break down the very smooth flow of the smoke.
2. There is the question "where does all the OILY smoke go?" We don't want it falling all over the station rook, and or the trackwork!
John is investigating alternative smoke generation methods, and we'll try the Water Vapour type used in modern "electric fires" and room humidifiers.
These generate no heat, and create the water vapour by ultrasonic vibration.
We'll get there eventually, because we can!
Steve.
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On 29/08/2019 at 15:18, Les Green said:A chimney has to smoke.....
John installed a conventional smoke unit in the top of the chimney, but it wasn't a great success and burnt itself out quite quickly.
Not one to be put off, he decided to build his own system of smoke generation, which he has done.
No pics at present, but it comprises heating coils from "Vaping" whatits and has fan assistance.
All very well, but the chimney is solid!
My job has been to make a working flue - should be easy to drill the chimney out, its only made of resin.
The problem is its size - at 320 mm or 13 inches.
I decided to drill it in my lathe - a Myford Super 7, but that was complicated by the fact that the chimney's diameter is greater than the bore of my lathe's spindle.
I also don't have any "long series" drills of 8mm diameter which would do the job.
Here's how I solved the problem:
To hold the chimney, I wrapped the lower section in masking tape to eliminate the taper, this gave the chuck something to get hold of.
I used a live centre in the tailstock to support it whilst tightening the chuck.
Having used a centre drill to get things started, I drilled out the top of the chimney very carefully in increasing sizes up to 8mm.
I had drilled as deep as the drills available would allow, but this was only less than a third of the total depth required.
To get deeper, I extended the drills be fixing them with super glue into close fitting brass tubes.
This gave me the following selection of drills:
I eventually reached the bottom of the chimney with the smallest drill. I was very pleased that the drilling had kept very true to the centre of the chimney,
I now had a hole in steps from 8mm down to about 2mm
To open up the hole to the required 8mm, I used first a twist drill to get as far up as I could, and then used a "flat bit" from each end to complete the job.
I also had to drill the shorter square section base of the chimney, which was relatively easy, having received a self centring four jaw chuck from Father Christmas a few years ago.
To locate to two sections together, and locate the chimney in the baseboard, and the smoke generator, I used brass tube.
The 5/16" tube aligns the chimney on its base, and the 11/32 tube into which the chimney is a sliding fit, will be fixed in the baseboard and into the smoke unit,
The flange on the top of the 11/32" tube sets its height and requires a recess in the bottom of the chimney base.
So there we have it - a "solid" chimney hollowed out and ready for painting and installation on the layout.
Steve.
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16 hours ago, Schipper said:
Greetings Steve
Being full of admiration for your work on these pages and having seen the results on Liverpool Lime Street etc I am aiming to steal some of your ideas and methods including fibre optic lighting of the lamps (and some buildings) but I see that Helmsman, source of your nice coloured LEDs), have ceased trading. Do you know of an alternative source of this colour of LED or have a spec so that I can search Rapid Electronics or similar, please?
Euan
Hi Euan,
Thanks for your kind comments.
It was news to me that Helmsman had ceased trading, and as yet I don't know what the future will hold for the several excellent products they sold.
If you see their website at http://www.helmsmanuk.co.uk/ you will see that all inquiries are referred to Peco.
In the short term I would suggest you do that.
If the situation becomes any clearer with regards to supply of the LED's I'll let you know.
In the meantime, I hope you have success with building your signals.
Steve.
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Hi Paul,
I hope the following link, to a post in my Topic, is helpful.
I've tried to edit it down to just the relevant post, but I keep getting the whole of my topic. Sorry.
Steve.
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On 25/09/2019 at 21:44, Steve Hewitt said:
WIGAN Exhibition, 5th & 6th October 2019.
I regret to have to announce that due to ill health we will not be able to exhibit the layout at the upcoming Wigan exhibition.
Three of the Lime Street Crew will instead be demonstrating their skills (or lack of them) as a small compensation.
Please come along for a chat and to ask any questions about the layout.
Steve
The "Lime Street Crew" will comprise Les, Rob and Myself, and we are exhibit no. 2 in the first Hall.
Please come along for a chat about anything "Lime Street", or anything else for that matter.
Steve.
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3 hours ago, MarkC said:
What happened to the turntable? Does anyone know please?
Mark
Hi Mark,
I can't help with info. on the disposal of the 60ft turntable, but I can explain a little of the history of turntables at Lime Street.
The period of our model is 1947, just before Nationalisation.
We therefore have the smaller turntable which had replaced the early LNWR turntable formerly located to the north of platform 1 where two short sidings now exist.
Very soon after Nationalisation the Lime Street Power Box was introduced along with extensions to some platforms etc.
This has just been decommissioned in the recent upgrades.
The platform extensions had required the demolition of the manual box, which is on our model.
The Power Box is/was built partly on the site of "our" turntable.
This in turn was replaced by the 60ft table shown previously.
We will be modelling the early ground work for the new table on our model.
Hope that helps a little.
Steve.
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2 hours ago, LMS2968 said:
I assume it was cut up on site, as with most others.
I believe It was last used on 23 June 1968 to turn 8F 8033 prior to working 1T85 LCGB's 'The Two Cities Limited' railtour. I was on the train and watched it turn.
I have heard a story about its use following electrification:
If an electric loco sustained damage to its windscreen on a trip to Euston, it would not be repaired there as it should have been, but it was sent back to Liverpool, with the damage at the trailing end.
To return the favour, the loco was turned at Lime Street and sent back to Euston, who not having any turntable were then obliged to undertake the repair.
Fact or fable?????
Steve.
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WIGAN Exhibition, 5th & 6th October 2019.
I regret to have to announce that due to ill health we will not be able to exhibit the layout at the upcoming Wigan exhibition.
Three of the Lime Street Crew will instead be demonstrating their skills (or lack of them) as a small compensation.
Please come along for a chat and to ask any questions about the layout.
Steve
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On 24/09/2019 at 18:52, 5BarVT said:
The aspect on the home signal looked yellow to me, not the green that I would have expected. Is that what was done at Lime St in LMS days?
Paul.
As LMS2968 has already explained, the Yellow aspects are equivalent to semaphore fixed distants.
I understand the meaning "Proceed with caution, expect the next signal to be Red", is appropriate.
The next signal will be the Red lamp on the Buffer Stop.
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You're absolutely correct, we do use the Gantry stop to hand over control.
It's not absolutely necessary, as there is a handover position just "off scene" in the tunnel at the edge of the scenic section.
From there a train can be driven through to the station without stopping.
However, that location is not very visible to the station operators, who check for the presence of a train before setting up its route.
Stopping at that location would also leave the train bridging the Sector Plate, so preventing it's use for any other movements.
As you say, we believe most if not all trains stopped at the Gantry and anecdotal evidence supports this.
(Not many of us can remember such details from 1947).
The location on a falling gradient to a terminus may have required such a stop to prevent over-speed driving???
Steve.
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Hi dh,
Thanks for your comment.
If you're interested in the articulated stock, please refer to Essery & Jenkinson's book "The LMS Coach 1923 - 1957"
Chapter 12 is "Articulated General Service Stock".
There were 11 Triplet sets built during 1937.
There were also a total of 55 twin sets, built to 3 diagrams.
Steve.
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Another new toy.....
I recently bought a tiny "Sports Camera" which can be operated by linking it to my Mobile phone with WIFI.
This means you can use the phone as the view finder, and also control the start and end of Video recording.
I have installed a 32Gb micro SD card, which should give more than enough recording time.
Fully charged it will give about an hour's recording time.
During our current series of operator training sessions I had the opportunity to try it out, with the following result.......
The very wide angle lens gives a lot of barrel distortion, but I hope the result is still entertaining, and even informative.
I hope the small size of the camera will allow us to make some "Drivers Eye View" videos.
Steve.
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Why?
'Because we can! '
Steve
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Semaphore Signals - 4mm Scale (Mainly)
in Permanent Way, Signalling & Infrastructure
Posted
Hi Jonathan,
Thanks for your kind comment.
I don't use Brass wire for anything!
I always use Nickel Silver of various diameters from 0.31mm up to 0.5mm for operating wires.
The thinnest is usually reserved for Ground Signals or very short runs on others.
The problem is that it buckles and kinks too easily.
In real life the signal wires are always in tension, but in our models they are required to push as well as pull!
Most operating wires are made from 0.4mm dia N/S wire.
I always blacken the wire with "Gun Blue" before use. If you need to solder it, you must clean off the Black first, as Gun Blue makes a good solder resist.
Hope this is helpful.
Steve.