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Steve Hewitt

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Posts posted by Steve Hewitt

  1. Tony,

     

    Your weathering is very well controlled and your photos are very good indeed.

    Hopefully I can deliver and help you install your semaphores as soon as this Covid-19 is under control.

    I'm looking forward to seeing some photos of them in-situ.

    In the meantime, keep up the good work and share your progress with us.

     

    Steve.

    • Agree 1
    • Thanks 1
  2. On 25/09/2020 at 18:37, Jon Fitness said:

    And here's a little taster of something soon to be for sale once the artwork's been re-jigged if anyone's interested. 7mm scale only of course..

    1681050099_IMG_20200923_125808631(1).jpg.99fe4afd6a10b8a248f4a0e019f9626e.jpg

     

    Hi Jon,

     

    Why "of course"?

    Us in the minor scale could make good use of those items.

    Is it not possible to  scale it down to 4:7 ?

    Depending on the stock thickness, that might have to be reduced as well I imagine.

     

    Yours hopefully and in admiration,

    Steve.

  3. Hi Micle,

     

    For all my soldering of Brass and Nickel Silver, including Electrical Connections I use 179 Dec C.

    This has 2 percent Silver, is very free flowing and makes strong joints.

     

    For white Metal I use 100 Deg C solder rather than the often recommended 70 Deg C.

    This has the advantage of not demanding prior tinning of the brass or N/S surface with ordinary solder.

    (this is still good practice though).

     

    For all soldering I use 12 percent Phosphoric Acid flux.

     

    A comprehensive range is available from Hobby Holidays at https://www.hobbyholidays.co.uk/products.php?cat=40

    (No connection other than satisfied customer).

     

    Hope this helps,

    Steve.

    • Like 1
    • Informative/Useful 5
  4. The servos...............

    The servo mounts:

    There are six servos to mount for this signal, one for each arm.

    I always prepare a bespoke mount for my signal.

    They are made from plywood and designed to locate accurately with the signal operating wires.

    A piece of plywood is cut on the bandsaw and drilled for the servo fixing screws.

     

    RIMG0265.jpg.795aea77205cc9dcc686c32522ade0a4.jpg

     

    Once the servos are in place, the sub-assembly is mounted on another piece of plywood which will eventually secure the whole to the underside of the baseboard.

    This second piece has a hole to match that in the baseboard and the signal's foundation tube. 

    The relationship of the plywood parts is determined by " rack of the eye" to ensure the operating wires can be linked to the servo "horns".

    The joints are reinforced with beading, the whole being glued together.

     

    RIMG0267.jpg.954182b13c1fd53430ce995fd2d2fd7d.jpg

     

    Off cuts of ply and MDF are glued together to create the Transport & Test Frame.

    This represents the layout's baseboard for thickness, and facilitates the assembly process and testing of the signal.

    It also allows the signals to be transported safely, tested for operation and easily transferred to the layout.

    RIMG0268.jpg.9d372091e8acad807546c7d43055728b.jpg

     

    The signal is located by its brass foundation tube, and secured by friction only.

     

    RIMG0270.jpg.4a5a594c7f2343a78b94c000f95054f6.jpg

    The relationship of the operating wires and servos can be seen here.

     

    RIMG0272.jpg.953f11d91f16a92dc68f79aa23aa3b9e.jpg

    The operating wires are 0.4mm dia Nickel Silver.

    The lower portion, from ground level downwards, is fixed into 1.32in dia brass tube.

    This helps to prevent buckling, and is a good running fit inside the "guide tubes" which are built into the signal base (seen previously).

     

     

    More brass tube, of 1/16in dia is used to link the operating wires to their servos. This slides over the operating wire, and is soldered to it once the relationship is adjusted.

    Each one is made to fit, and is a simple push fit into the servo horn.

     

    RIMG0274.jpg.fc8be4d8736acc001c8eb2447eda5d8a.jpg

    One of the links between operating wire and servo horn.

     

    RIMG0275.jpg.ff5460efe9806a4d5bb4ba6503834017.jpg

    The servo horn has been shortened and the fixing holes opened up to 1/16in dia to fit.

    The intention is to use the maximum amount of angular motion to move the signal. This giving the best control.

     

    RIMG0276.jpg.535441bb8936496f411328f93fa076c4.jpg

    Using the "safe" feature of the GF Controller, the servo is locked in its mid-position.

    With the connecting tube still free to slide on the operating wire, the signal arm is adjusted to a corresponding mid position - neither clear nor danger.

     

    RIMG0278.jpg.7df7178558352bb336427723ab8b565d.jpg

    You can just see a small nick in the tube to facilitate soldering.

    Liquid flux, a hot iron with a little solder and its all over very quickly.

     

    RIMG0280.jpg.3ac5a7fac14848fc83ce6d81ba771b1a.jpg

    Each signal arm and servo are dealt with similarly.

     

     

    The GF Controller for each arm will be adjusted and the whole signal given a good testing......................

     

    Steve.

    • Like 4
    • Craftsmanship/clever 13
  5. After painting.......

     

    First task is to install the Optical Fibres and terminate them in another of Les Green's 3D printed connectors.RIMG0241.jpg.ccf57c7ae11a3d199464cfe5e0daa38d.jpg

    There are six fibres - one for each lamp.

    They are routed through the signal structure, becoming quite unobtrusive.

     

    RIMG0240.jpg.8d3bf26c9ce8c8754409c783dcd3a799.jpg

    One LED then provides the light for each lamp.

    RIMG0243.jpg.5fc5a75dc23dd5383ddfc043716955ca.jpg

    And the Backlight where the fibres leak.

     

    The other components were painted, ready for the assembly.

     

     

    Weight bars, cranks etc.

     

    RIMG0248.jpg.22275b6e0f6b2b329587c6d37ec8fdf9.jpg

    And a whole batch of signals.

     

    RIMG0249.jpg.4f6d7c16753924db3836a12860ccc020.jpg

    The first three items assembled.

     

    More to follow.......

     

    Steve.

     

     

     

    RIMG0244.jpg

    • Like 4
    • Craftsmanship/clever 8
  6. Putting the bits together.......

     

    The main post of this signal is brass, so all the parts which can be soldered together were tackled first.

     

    The two parts of the bracket were soldered to the main post followed by the staging beams.

     

    RIMG0223.jpg.26ef10a36168c4a65979ef004891184a.jpg

    The broach had produced a shallow taper in the base, so the post was a good fit and just required soldering at it lower end.

     

    RIMG0224.jpg.1dbe7aacc86bea3edd1fe2efe1243b24.jpg

    The pre-drilled holes in the top of the bracket gave a good alignment and foundation for the stations.

     

     

    RIMG0228.jpg.2d0c41101ada124daefeca48941b3c4b.jpg

    The stanchions will be adjusted as necessary when the handrail is added at a later stage.

     

    RIMG0234.jpg.3a4bacc17e467dca3c51e9f5ab726611.jpg

    The weight bars and their bearings were seen previously.

    A broken HSS drill was used to ensure alignment whilst they were soldered in place.

     

    RIMG0235.jpg.b10024667908dbd0a27fccf948549aec.jpg

     

    I'm sorry I forgot to take pictures of the assembly of the dolls and their subsequent fitting to the brackets.

    The dolls are 3D prints by Les Green, as are the Lamps, and Calling-On bearing/lamp assemblies.

    These non-metalic items were assembled using either "Power Bond" cyano or a UV Light cured glue which is a new experiment for me.

    This glue is fairly viscous and crystal clear. It allows careful adjustment of positions etc., before a 5sec dose of UV light from a small LED Torch which was supplied. (No good for fixing flat surfaces of opaque items, as the light has to reach all the adhesive to cure it.)

     

    RIMG0236.jpg.07e3f4cb4b157f3b68dbb92ea9b9cbc1.jpg

    The main "static" assembly is complete, including the Handrails, Ladders etc. and the bearings for the cranks which will connect the Down Rods.

     

    RIMG0239.jpg.45f7626a0bae954bdf5285c2869460a8.jpg

    Ready for a scrub and polish then a bath in Cellulose Thinners before a trip to the beauty salon.

     

     

    More of which later.

     

    Steve.

     

    • Like 10
    • Craftsmanship/clever 6
  7. 24 minutes ago, The Stationmaster said:

    One minor point - the word 'BAY' on GWR signal arms only ever appears to have been used on signals reading from a bay, and not on signals reading to a bay.  I've definitely never seen a photo (or indeed in years past an actual signal) which was any different from that.

     

    Thanks Mike,

     

    I'll check the requirement with the railway's owner.

     

    Steve.

    • Like 1
  8. Another bracket signal  -  GWR this time..............

     

    This is another "square post era" model for a fictitious minor London terminus.

    The off-set right hand design is required due to fit in a very restricted location.

    1261623787_EdgewareRdapproachBracket.jpg.57511a753621a433f8321bc4d5c45cd7.jpg

     

    The main post and integral doll will be made from a Mosokits etch.

    The main arms will all be Masokits as well, but the Calling-On arms will be private Les Green etch.

    The two shorter dolls will be 3D prints from Les Green's Shapeways shop, as will the Lamps, and the C/O bearing/lamp assembly.

    MSE will provide the bracket work etch, modified a little.

     

    RIMG0210.jpg.03265f96d3029bd1805f0ea08ff8ddda.jpg

    The etched brass main post, made from two folded "U" sections soldered together.

     

    Regular readers will know I like to have firm foundations for my signals, usually comprising a bespoke turning to secure the Post and ensure it is vertical to its baseplate.

    It will also have the Guide Tubes for the operating wires to provide a smooth bearing and minimise buckling.

    The whole is then fitted inside a brass tube which will be a good fit in the baseboard when the time comes for installation.

     

    RIMG0211.jpg.eb85537f564b3a407135e177b5de93ec.jpg

    The turned brass tube mounted on the baseplate.

    The hole is tapered by using a cutting broach and is a very good fit on the main post.

    RIMG0218.jpg.ba13e038deeb120355b0d6170ed12868.jpg

    The guide tubes are clustered to the rear of the main post.

    RIMG0213.jpg.7c0959d8bbd5a84709e9a03aa7aa31c0.jpg

     

    The half inch dia. brass tube is a good fit on the flange of the turning.RIMG0217.jpg.804191a5ee5fe109813dda41ebf5616a.jpg

     

    RIMG0219.jpg.88ffb2ea5e199161f3b6a26359e0abe7.jpg

    This is the first sub-assembly.

     

    RIMG0220.jpg.9563a0976b0c7c193e307b43bcf2ba35.jpg

    The modified MSE etches.

    The upper bracket has been drilled to eventually take the handrail stanchions.

     

     

    RIMG0229.jpg.daf2da50925402e7979210c0f783ab22.jpg

    The six weight bars, from Les Green etches in two bearings cut from square brass tube.

     

     

    To be continued..........

     

    Steve.

    • Like 10
    • Craftsmanship/clever 7
  9. On 22/06/2020 at 08:59, ikcdab said:

    I am building a bracket signal which has the distant for the next box beneath the starter. Southern / BR(S).

    I intend to add a dummy Westinghouse signal motor to "work" the distant arm. Two questions:

    1. I assume that the motor would be up on rhw doll in lieu of the balance arm rather than at the base of the post at ground level. Correct?

    2. Despite having the signal motor, I will still need to work the arm mechanically from the servo beneath the baseboard. The prototype would not have had any mechanical linkages (presumably just a couple of electrical wires?) so how do folks operate these? As it's on a doll, I will need the usual cranks and wires/rods. I guess I just try and hide them behind the linkages for the mechanically worked starter?

    Thanks

     

     

    Hi ikcdab,

     

    I have used Westinghouse Backing Machines on one or two signal models, trying to keep the operating linkages hidden from view.

    If you go to my Topic the following post will eventually try to answer your question.  Hope this is helpful.

     

    Steve.

     

    • Like 1
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