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Steve Hewitt

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Posts posted by Steve Hewitt

  1. 20 hours ago, gz3xzf said:

    Steve

    Love the LED/optical fibre set-up, who supplies the LED holder/connectors. Also do you use a resistor between the battery and the LED?

     

    The LED to Optical Fibre connectors are available from Les Green's shop on Shapeways.

    https://www.shapeways.com/product/QRZ3TDVSC/led-connectors-for-printing-v4?optionId=74139707&li=shops

     

    Yes, I put a 1k ohm resistor in line with the feed.

    This is suitable for supply voltages from 9v to 15v.

    On installation I recommend using a 12v ring to supply all the signals on a layout.

     

    Hope this is helpful.

     

    Steve.

    • Thanks 1
    • Informative/Useful 3
  2. Back from the Paintshop.............

     

    I almost forgot to take any photos before adding the moving parts:

     

    20210406_155738.jpg.6d42bacc8ec631ceadad55e0ee55dde8.jpg

    I have already installed the three optical fibres. You can see them routed up the structure.

     

    20210406_155820.jpg.94f96feaa59e77ead357f46d5f89c5fb.jpg

    This rear view shows the "Backlight" effect where the optical fibre is turned sharply into the rear of the Lamp.

     

    20210406_155916.jpg.2f3d1048a227c1e1436ca4a2c413273c.jpg

    The LED is fitted into the 3D printed connector and supplied with 9volts from the PP3 battery.

    The three fibres are fitted into the connector, which is a bayonet fix into LED holder.

    The heat shrink is for visibility and protection. Any damage to a fibre will almost certainly require its replacement which can be a right p.i.t.a.

     

    On with the moving parts now. This is when the signal comes to life......

     

    Steve.

    • Like 9
    • Craftsmanship/clever 9
  3. Another Lockdown project.......

     

    This next signal is for the GWR "square post era" layout I've contributed several signals to in the past.

    Having left the terminus at Edgeware Road, the next station down the line is Acton Wells and this is one of the Down Home signals for that station.

     

    It is a balanced bracket signal with three dolls.

    From the left, there is a short centre pivot arm controling access to a siding.

    The centre doll controls access to a platform and has Fixed Distant below.

    The right hand doll controls the access to the mian platform and laso has a Fixed Distant below.

     

    RIMG0482.JPG.0dc5bd838bcdd9c5f8ea0de1bb5ebb86.JPG

     

    More soon..........

     

    Steve.

    • Like 8
    • Craftsmanship/clever 5
    • Friendly/supportive 1
  4. 22 hours ago, Michael Hodgson said:

    Very nice signals :)

    Is the fibre optic white shining through coloured spectacle on the disc or is it a red and a green coloured light from below?

    Hi Michael,

     

    The light is an "Off White" and the colour is given by the the coloured spectacle.

    I use a Warm White LED and add a touch of Amber glass paint to simulate the oil lamp colour.

    The spectacles are coloured with the MSE material.

     

    Steve.

    • Thanks 1
  5. Hi Woodbine,

     

    Thanks for your question.

     

    First rule is if its Metal to Metal I always try solder.

    With white metal/brass I use Carrs 100deg. solder. (It doesn't require the Brass to be pre-tinned.)

     

    If you're not comfortable with that, I suggest using Loctite Retainer, so long as the Brass Tube is a good fit in the White Metal Post.

    The balance arm is likely to be held in its own bearing, mounted on the surface of the Post.

    If solder is not your choice then Super Glue is OK. Again the two parts must fit together quite snuggly.

    In this case, on final assembly, the Lace Pin I use as the pivot for the Weight Bar should be fixed into the Post with Solder or Loctite to re-inforce the joint. (Careful not to solder/glue it all up solid.)

     

    I hope this helps......

     

    Steve.

     

     

    • Like 2
    • Informative/Useful 2
  6. Robin,

     

    John has sent me this response:

     

    "Robin,

    The ballast I used was Woodland Scenics  Granit Ballast the N gauge variety, I like most others find the 00 offering a little oversized. After the rail sides had been painted a suitable rust colour the ballast was laid and dressed down between the sleepers until I was happy with it's appearance.

    I then followed the well practiced method of saturating the ballast using a fine spray of water with a few drops of washing up liquid in, followed by diluted PVA glue dripped on using a pipet.

    I find that individual stone chippings will somehow magically move up onto the sleepers during this process, so using a fine tipped scribe they can be pushed back where they belong. The secret is not to try to do too much in one sitting, I usually only do about one foot of double track in one sitting, this gives you time to adjust any problems before the glue goes off and also protects your sanity !

    I had an immense area to do but just working through it methodically it soon starts to take shape, the upside to Lockdown is that it has been a great opportunity to get this job out of the way! So now it's on with the point rodding.

     

    Cheers,

     

    John."

     

    Steve.

    • Like 1
    • Informative/Useful 6
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