Steve Hewitt

A little more.....

Having fitted the handrails - from 0.33mm dia N/S, and the tie bars to assist with the overhang, I couldn't resist a trial fit of the dolls again, to see how its going to look.

More or less the last items to fit were the bearings for the weight bars.

Obvious how they've been made from square brass tube.

This was just after a bath and scrub with Cif.

Degrease for everything and then off to the paintshop............

Steve.

Thanks very much Mike, much appreciated. 

Steve 

A few more steps......

Ladders:

I use etched ladders, reinforced with 0.4mm N/S wire on the stiles.

These are remarkably strong and avoid the "snakes" often seen on layouts where etches have been used without strengthening.

The carefully trimmed etch is folded at the end to create the fastening where a ladder will be fixed to a Doll.

The N/S wire is attached to the front of each stile, carefully aligning by hand and soldering a few cms at a time.

Asbestos fingers are a great help.

I use a brass rod of 2mm square section to hold the ladder in the vide without crushing it.

(The flat etch is against the rear jaw, the half etch and wire to the front.)

A very smooth file is then used to give a flat edge to the stile.

Don't file outside the portion supported by the vice.

The result.

(I can never get a good result with wire thru' hole type ladders)

Next the staging.....

The horizontal beams represented by 1mm x 0.5mm brass strip.

Drilled at each end 0.45mm to take the lace pins I use for the stanchions.

The eight beams, the hole centres marked set out with dividers for consistency.

Soldered in place.

The front top edge of the trimmer was drilled to take the pins, which gives an excellent joint.

Time to put a foot down.....

Creating the foundations. The signal will stand on a N/S baseplate which will also anchor the lower ladder.

To help support the signal, it will be located by a turned brass spigot.

This will fit closely within the bottom of the lattice lost, and be hollow to for the optical fibres to pass through.

This turning also supports the baseplate which sits on a larger flange.

Below this flange a tube extends some distance. (Reason to become apparent).

The turning.

The baseplate was marked out and drilled for the turning, ladder footings and the operating wires.

To locate all this on the layout, the whole is fixed to a 5/8in dia brass tube. (Larger than my usual 1/2in tube because of all the operating wires etc.)

The various parts.

Soldering the turning to the baseplate, lots of flux and the blowtorch.

Similarly for the foundation tube.

Those who follow my methods will know I like to give the operating wires a good supportive route to their servo motors.

This starts with what I call guide tubes. These are lengths of 1/6th dia brass tube which fit through the baseplate and are supported inside the foundation tube. The operating wires will eventually be secured inside 1.32in tubes which will slide nicely within the guide tubes.

This minimises buckling etc.

First three guide tubes being fitted.

From below.

Almost complete.

The turning extends slightly beyond the foundation tube - so that it can be used to align the signal.

Supported in the lathe, the post is soldered to the baseplate/spigot.

Enough for now.........................

Steve.

Hi Tony,

Two suggestions for the elusive nut.

1.  Clean the seating for the nut thoroughly, similarly the mating surface of a Brass 8BA nut.

Tin the Brass nut and its seating. (If possible)

Use a Steel 8BA bolt and blacken it with Gun Blue.

Apply oil to the bolt thread and use it to lock the nut in place.

Apply heat to the accessible surface adjacent to the bolt head, cross fingers and count to not very many.

2. Recreate a copy of the captive nut on a small piece of brass.

Use epoxy glue to attach this where required, and use a bolt to hold it in place until the glue has cured.

Good luck,

Steve.

Time to play with the Dolls............

The four dolls are made from 2mm o/d Brass tube, 1.5mm i/d.

The Finials are turned brass from Alan Gibson.

The Lamp/Bearings are 3D prints from Shapeways.  See Les Green's shop:  https://www.shapeways.com/shops/railway-odds-and-ends?li=pb

The shoes are resin mouldings, the 3D master is also available from Les's Shapeways shop.

From that you can make a Rubber mould, in which to cast your resin shoes.

The four dolls.

A trial fit.

It is necessary to provide a route for the Optical Fibres which will eventually pass from the Lamps, through the structure and down below the baseboard.

A hole below each Lamp and another where the fibres can exit.

The fibre will need encouraging to exit the Doll, so a plug was turned for the bottom of the doll, with its top surface filed at an angle and positioned to deflect the fibre.

Scrap fibres fitted to prove it works.

The fibre passes through the lamp where the sharp bend will allow a little light to leak and represent the Backlight.

More soon....

Steve.

A few more steps.....

Continuing with components:

There are six arms, three to each side of the main post, so six weight bars. 

The bearings are fashioned from square brass tube.

The bars with weights at each end are for the "slotted" distant arms.

The Rocking shafts will transfer the wire pull across the trimmers.

Only two required to the left as the third arm will be connected directly to its weight bar.

The double rockers comprise concentric brass tubes with a 0.4mm "hinge pin".

The inner tube is 0.6mm dia, the outer is 0.8mm dia.

The longer single rocker is 0.8mm tube on a 0.6mm dia hinge pin.

The crank arms are cut from a Gibson  etch of tiny angle cranks.

The trimmers have been assembled to the post.

To ensure squareness, the wooden jig was drilled thru' to clear the post.

With the trimmers located by the silver steel rods, I secured my small engineers square to the underside of the jig and to the post.

With everything square the trimmers were soldered to the post.

A bit of a lash-up, but effective.

Time to trial  fit the rockers.

The 0.4mm hinge pin for the two double rockers.

The rocker bearings were sleeved down to the correct size - 0.4mm or 0.6mm by soldering in appropriate brass tube and trimming it with the piercing saw.

Hopefully, the following shots will show how the rockers are fitted:

Finally for now, the brackets were made up from a M.S.E. etch.

With added strip to give depth to the "T" section part.

More soon.......

Steve.

With the Moretonhampstead signals off the bench, the next project can move forward, just 2 metres, .......

Starting with a photo of a "mock-up":

This has been developed into an early LMS style bracket with a lattice mainpost and tubular dolls:

First job is to prepare the components and sub-assemblies:

The Main Post from an Alan Gibson etch, with added angle corners

Brass channel section Trimmers, drilled for the Rocker Shaft Bearings

The rocker bearings are 7mm scale Medium Handrail Knobs from Alan Gibson

Soldering the bearings in place, alignment ensured by a length of 0.8mm N/S rod.

The size of the lattice post , where the trimmers will attach, was measured and brass spacers turned to suit.

These are also to act as locators for the dolls.

To ensure everything is assembled in the correct position and vertical etc. a simple Jig was made from an off-cut of plywood.

Using the vertical mill, 2mm dia holes were drilled at the correct centres for the doll spacing - 6ft; 11ft and 6ft.

Silver steel rods (won't solder) were fitted into these holes and the brass spacers slid over them.

The wooden jig with turned Spacers located at the doll centres.

The Trimmers were clamped into position and soldered to the spacers.

More soon........

Steve.

Moretonhampstead signals completed.......

This Lockdown has allowed me more "shed time" than usual, so progress has been made.

I haven't many "work in progress" pics for this, but all the methods were consistent with the the Home signal.

If there are any questions please don't hesitate to ask....

Here are the completed signals on their transport & test frame.

All are in their "Safe" position, with the servos in mid-throw.

The ground signals viewed from the other side.

A few details.....

The advanced starter

One of the ground signals

In the clear position

Finally, in the box, ready for delivery.

The transport & test frame is made to be a tight fit when the lid is clipped in position.

Now its a matter of Delivery/Collection - whenever the Lockdown will allow.

Steve.

Locked down, but not idle..........

The Lime Street Crew enjoyed our first "virtual" session today, thanks to Zoom.

Subsequently, John sent us the following video and photo of his latest development.

He has now solved the problems of getting the new chimney to smoke.

And here is the Smoke Generator fitted into the baseboard:

The actual generator is fitted inside the perspex water tank which also contains a fan to drive the smoke up the chimney.

The small control panel is used to operate the system manually  or to integrate it with the layout's main control system so that smoke is generated at intervals during "day light" and switches off during "night time".

I wonder when we're going to be allowed out to play with the railway?

We should have been packing it all up to take it to the Bristol Show about now.

Steve.

On 01/04/2020 at 23:10, Steve Hewitt said:

 

With the servo in Safe position, the arm is set to its corresponding mid position,

then the connecting tube is soldered to the operating wire.

It now just requires the signal arm adjusting to Danger and Clear using the GF controller.

 

I'll try to make a video of this shortly...........

 

 Steve

 

 

And here it is.....

Steve.

16 hours ago, Stephen Freeman said:

There is however an error of the painting of the signal arm. Reference to the photo of the prototype will show what is needed to be altered.

Thanks Stephen,

I've altered the arm.

Steve.

A quick YouTube search gave :

One example near the beginning and a second at about 3 minutes.

Steve.

Fitting the servo.......

The Moretonhampstead signals will all be installed on 9mm ply baseboards.

They will be delivered on their Transport & Test Frame, which is a simulation of their installation.

The Transport & Test Frame.

Drilled for three signals with 1/2in location tubes and 4 Ground Discs with 5/16in tubes.

The servo is mounted on a bespoke wooden frame.

This ensures the servo Horn aligns with the signal's operating wire.

A  short length of 1/2 brass tube is used to align the parts.

The view from below.

Secured in Place.

The connection between the operating wire and the servo is formed from 1/16in. brass tube.

This is fitted with the servo in the "Safe" position. i.e. Set by the GF controller to mid-throw.

With the servo in Safe position, the arm is set to its corresponding mid position,

then the connecting tube is soldered to the operating wire.

It now just requires the signal arm adjusting to Danger and Clear using the GF controller.

I'll try to make a video of this shortly...........

 Steve

1 hour ago, Stephen Freeman said:

1000k ohm resistor? seems a lot, I think 1k should be OK. That is of course 1000 ohms.

I wondered when you'd spot that Wilson.

Steve.

........continued.

Back from the Paintshop, the first task is to install the Optical Fibre for the signal lamp.

The "Lens" end of the fibre is heated by bringing it very close to the hot soldering iron, causing the end to swell.

The fibre is then threaded through the Lamp and routed down the post to the Baseplate.

The fibre is bent tightly where it exits the Lamp causing light leakage which is the Backlight.

Because this is a solid post, the fibre is tie-wrapped to it with fine cotton.

Quite unobtrusive??

The fibre is threaded down thru' the Baseplate.

Emerging below ground, it is covered in Heat Shrink for protection.

The bottom end terminates in a 3D printed socket.

The socket is a "bayonet" fit in the LED holder.

Supply has a 1000 ohm resister to match a 12v DC power feed.

The LED is a "Gaslight" from Helmsman Electronics.

Unfortunately these are not currently available since Geoff Helm retired.

His business has gone to Peco, but they won't say when the products will be available again.

The effect seems to be quite a reasonable "oil lamp" colour.

The Green results from the Yellowish light and the Blue spectacle.

With the lighting sorted, the various moving bits and pieces were added.

The Weight Bar is fitted in its Bearing, using a 0.45mm lace pin as the pivot.

The operating wire is 0.4mm N/S wire.

It passes into its "Guide Tube"  of 1/16in brass tube.

Within the Guide Tube, the Operating Wire is sheathed in 1/32in brass tube, soldered at the bottom.

This ensures that the operating wire is protected from buckling, and the tube-in-tube is an excellent bearing.

The connection to the servo will later be made from 1/16in brass tube.

The Down Rod is passed thru' the rod guides.

and attached to the Weight Bar.

and Signal Arm.

Attaching the Back Blinder completes the "moving parts" on the signal itself.

Stained wood planking is fitted to the Lampman's Stage.

Fitting the servo and testing the signal will be next..................

Steve.

17 hours ago, Steve Hewitt said:

 

Next will be the signal itself............

 

Steve.

Various materials are being used in this model, so assembling them in the correct sequence to avoid collateral damage is important.

• Brass components are attached to the Post with C&L 100deg solder. Unlike normal 70deg Low Melt solder, there's no need to tin Brass or N/S prior to attaching White Metal items.
• 3D printed items are secured with either cyano adhesive or UV Cured adhesive. This is something new for me. It was recommended by a visitor to my Demo at the recent Preston show. It allows as long as it takes to get things correctly positioned before shining the UV light on it for 5-10 seconds.
• Brass or N/S items are joined with 179deg solder. This is now my solder of choice for all assembly work. It contains Silver to make it flow really well, and reduces cleaning up effort.

The bearing for the Weight Bar is attached with 100deg solder.

The Arm Bearing is made from 1/32in brass tube.

This had to be recessed into the Post to ensure alignment of the spectacles in front of the Lamp.

The Lamp and its Bracket had also to be recessed slightly to get the correct alignment.

They were attached with the UV Cured adhesive.

The Post was secured in the socket with 100deg solder.

To ensure the Post is vertical, I mounted the foundation assembly in the lathe chuck, and used the revolving tail centre to keep everything in alignment during the soldering.

The result, standing proud.

Not shown here is the tiny amount of Squadron Putty used to blend the joint between Post and Socket.

The Lampman's Stage came next. Fixed with 100deg solder once again.

Then the Ladder.

Finally the Ladder Stays.

The Finial was added with Cyano, then cleaning, polishing, degreasing and off to the Paintshop.

Steve.

18 minutes ago, Happy Hippo said:

 

Steve,

 

Would you like us to move this sub discussion off your thread because, interesting as it is, it is detracting from your work?

Yes please.

I was about to suggest it myself.

Thanks,

Steve.

23 hours ago, Steve Hewitt said:

 

Next are the signals foundations.

It will be mounted in a 1/2in. dia hole in the 9mm ply baseboard.

Here are the components for the foundations:

From the left:-

The Nickel silver baseplate, drilled for the turning which locates the square socket mentioned earlier.

The turning for the socket;

A length of 1/16th in. brass tube to guide the operating wire;

The 1/2in brass tube wish supports the baseplate and locates the signal in the baseboard. This tube also locates the servo motor bracket - much later.....

 

Assembly is about to start...

 

Steve.

 

 

Assembly....

The foundations' components are designed to ensure the signal will stand vertically on the baseboard.

The brass turning is first fitted into the baseplate where it will then ensure the square Socket is vertical and concentric with whole assembly.

The Turning in place  in the Baseplate, flooded with liquid flux.

A quick application of heat from the blowtorch and a small piece of solder.

The Guide Tube for the Operating Wire is soldered in place.

It is soldered to the baseplate and also has a short  anchor fixing it to the bottom of the Turning.

The Anchor is just an off-cut from an etch.

The bottom of the Turning had been drilled out to reduce its "heat capacity", making it easier to solder.

The view from above.

The 1/2in Brass Tube which locates the signal in the baseboard fits the Turning precisely.

More flux, solder and heat from the blowtorch .

A quick spin in the lathe to check it all looks square and concentric.

The square brass Socket is soldered in place, square with baseplate.

Next will be the signal itself............

Steve.

7 hours ago, Titanius Anglesmith said:

Another following with interest, marvellous work 

 

Did you have any difficulty turning the spigot on the end of the main post, given that it’s tapered? I presume you used a standard 4-jaw chuck?

Hi,

Thanks for your interest.

Yes, I use a four jaw chuck, but its not the usual type with independent jaws.

I bought a Self Centring four jaw chuck a few years ago, and its extremely useful.

To hold the taper of the cast post, I simply wrap a few turns of masking tape around the part where the rear of the chuck jaws will grip.

Compare the size with the area gripped by the front of the jaws to get a true running workpiece.

I also used masking tape at the other end of the post to hold it for drilling the Finial location hole.

With small jobs like this on soft materials I find the approach works well.

If turning steel I'd calculate the packing required at each jaw position and machine brass inserts to suit.

Steve.

Collecting the components together.......

Starting with the Concrete Post.

This is a white metal casting from MSE.

Once all the casting flash had been clean off it seems fairly straight.

In order to mount the post I have decided to make a suitable socket from square brass tube.

The lower end of the post was turned to fit.

This socket will also raise the post a few mm. required to ensure the arm is at 23ft above rail height.

The top of the post was drilled to take the spigot on a Modelu square post finial.

Modelu also supplied the signal lamp.

The 4ft signal arm was assembled from a Masokits etch.

As was the back blinder.

The bracket for the weight bar is from a MSE etch. The weight bar is a Les Green etch.

MSE for the lamp bracket as well.

The landing was assembled from a Les Green etch, two lace pins and a folded up brass base.

Wooden stage boards will be added much laster.

Next are the signals foundations.

It will be mounted in a 1/2in. dia hole in the 9mm ply baseboard.

Here are the components for the foundations:

From the left:-

The Nickel silver baseplate, drilled for the turning which locates the square socket mentioned earlier.

The turning for the socket;

A length of 1/16th in. brass tube to guide the operating wire;

The 1/2in brass tube wish supports the baseplate and locates the signal in the baseboard. This tube also locates the servo motor bracket - much later.....

Assembly is about to start...

Steve.

Tony,

That looks really good.

My early attempts always had too much solder everywhere.

You've not chosen the easiest underframe to get running.

Good luck,

Steve.

Moving on - towards Devon.

Signals for Moretonhampstead.......

A GWR country terminus, set in BR days, Moretonhampstead will require three stop signals and four ground discs.

See: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/150296-moretonhampstead-signalling/

Which is the layout owner's topic and includes an excellent signalling diagram

The first signal will be the Down Home. This was a concrete post signal - not very common! - with a 4ft arm at 23ft above rail height.

The prototype

The model will be based on a MSE cast post. Ladder and arm will be Masokits. Finial and lamp will be Modelu.

I'll get some components together before I start the assembly...............

Steve.