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Steve Hewitt

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Posts posted by Steve Hewitt

  1. Another GWR Bracket Signal for Acton Wells .............

     

    A little more compact than the cantilevered bracket, but broadly similar in design, this signal again has three dolls with a Stop arm on each which are stepped down from left to right.

    The two tallest dolls also have a fixed distant arm.

     

    My construction sequence has been a little different this time in as much as I have built and painted several major sub-assemblies prior to final assembly and installing the operating wires etc.

     

    The main structure uses a modified MSE bracket etch.

    1404161894_2021-07-2820_39_33.jpg.8b70f3901006ca9663a1fcac9988c403.jpg

     

    Theere are sockets for each doll built in between the trimmers.

    1219663878_2021-07-2820_41_31.jpg.b599debab4bf76e2d29db5ea4c681431.jpg

    You can also see the two cranks which will link the operating wires to the weight bars for the two dolls along the bracket.

     

    Each doll has been completed and is ready to install in its socket.

    1345855982_2021-07-2820_38_17.jpg.3e47a89fc69d94e7d86ab4f559ad5119.jpg

     

    In addition I have prepared the ladders which will give access to the upper arms of the two tallest dolls.

    330383852_2021-07-2820_38_42.jpg.3a3a84db71242bf9fed21f824403a326.jpg

     

    Next steps will be installing the dolls and completing the optical fibre/LED assembly.

    Then its on with the operating wires......

     

    Steve.

    • Like 7
    • Craftsmanship/clever 5
  2. On 28/07/2021 at 17:00, Derekm said:

    Hi

     

    im very interested in your article and would like to try my hand at modelling semaphore signals in n gauge but was wondering if you could point me in the right direction for components for the signals and perhaps any build tips you could give me.

    Hi,

     

    Stehen Freeman has already answered your question about supply of components very well.

    As to build tips, my generfal advice would be to use Brass and Nickel Silver for the parts you have to fabricate yourself, and solder wherever possible rather than glue.

    Supplies of metal sections - strip, tube, angles etc. are available on-line from such as Hobby Holidays and Eilleens Emporium.

    The best starting point for any model is a good photograph of the prototype.

    Understand how the prototype was constructed and operates, and do the same in miniature where possible.

    For whichever Railway or BR Region you are modelling, obtain the appropriate Signalling Reference books.

    Excellent guides to model signal construction have been written by Derek Mundy, Mick Nicholson, Peter Squibb and they are well worth studying.

     

    Good luck, and please let us know on RMweb how you get on.

     

    Steve Hewitt.

  3. Hello Tim,

    I can help with the following:

    4MM66 x 1  9ft brit.

    4MM63 x 2  27ft lattice post. 

    4MM64 x 3  23ft lattice post. 

    4MM62 x 1  36ft lattice post. 

    4MM84 x 1  SR brkt kit.

     

    MSE do a taller lattice post at about 45ft as well as most of the parts you will need for that tall bracket signal in the photo.

     

    If you want to buy any of the above please get I  touch by a personal message. 

     

    Steve .

     

  4. 9 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

    Very nice Steve. Was the prototype guyed to a retaining wall or something?

    Thanks.

     

    The design is "free-lance" as the layout is based on a ficticious location.

    If it was a real design I'm sure significant Guying would have been necessary, most certainly opposite the bracket.

    The layout owner may well add another "tie bar" when he installs the signal, but I don't know the precise details of the site.

     

    Steve.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  5. Latest contribution..........

     

    Many years ago I built a DJH 8F kit in 00 gauge for the Blackburn club's "Oxenholme" layout.

    The layout is now sadly just a memory, so I've converted the 8F to EM gauge and relivieried it into Wartime Black.

    Here's a little video of it being tested prior to asking Rob to touch up the paintwork and weather it:D.

     

    Steve.

    • Like 16
    • Round of applause 1
  6. A little more progress........

     

    John has been working on enhancing the Loco Servicing area of the station.

    The latest devlopment is a small building/workshop/lamp room?????

     

    The model was 3D printed by Les Green, painted and weathered by Rob Harrison and the interior completed by John.

    He has sent the following information about the lighting and the building's installation.

     

    "The first shot shows the footprint of the building, note that it straddles the two baseboards. The far pin is purely for location, and the near pins locate and provide power from the three phase gas supply."

    416023549_LampRoom1.jpg.6a895ed9542144235fceeeb0d6b5a5e2.jpg

     

    I have used veroboard to wire the lights up, two internal ones and one wall lamp on the gable end.

    They are LEDs, you can see a capacitor on the end of the board to convert the gas effect to an electric light effect.536847654_LampRoom2.jpg.009ea98d4b8ee7c9ac6becf490b87cb1.jpg

     

    Finally the building in place lit up !

    1083160408_LampRoom3.jpg.4ff95cb3564bb668b3abc678593a687a.jpg

     

    I believe there are a few more deatails to be added, such as a Bike Shed, but no doubt I'll reprort on those as and when.

     

    Steve.

     

    • Like 12
    • Craftsmanship/clever 5
    • Round of applause 1
  7. And finally ??.................

     

    Tony has requested an additional signal for Churminster & Stowe Magna.

    This is a Rail Built Bracket with the two Starters for the little terminus at the Aerodrome.

     

    1512029314_2021-05-1912_55_39.jpg.71822afa004ccef4e6618f4fd47c9e56.jpg

     

    1404098930_2021-05-1912_55_58.jpg.1488b8cf20f78d526745837f9e145ec7.jpg

     

    152410420_2021-05-1912_56_09.jpg.3cff27790d6bbbd30bf06dd770c4b5a1.jpg

     

    1217745035_2021-05-1913_01_12.jpg.e1c6c374031d68ff6a1674b983d77b88.jpg

     

    And finally a little video:

     

     

    I now have a total of some 16 signals ready for delivery. They vary in size from Ground discs to a bracket with four arms.

    Original plans for delivery and installation of the Churminster signals got put back by the first Covid Lockdown.  Let's hope the relaxation of restrictions allow our current plan to proceed in a few week's time.

     

    Steve.

    • Like 8
    • Craftsmanship/clever 11
  8. 9 hours ago, Rowsley17D said:

    Hi Steve, I've used Brian's square posts but how do you fix then to the metal base? Thanks

    Hi Jonathan,

     

    I'm not sure what "Brian's" square posts are?

    Did you mean "Les's" - i.e. what I am using?

     

    My method is to make a socket out of brass into which the bottom of the post is a good fit.

    This brass socket is turned up to also support the Guide Tubes for the operating wires and has a shoulder or flange to allow it to be fixed immediately below the baseplate.

    This ensures that everything is square and vertical.

    20210420_153436.jpg.59d83e938fefce31d69b260e9508a92c.jpg

    The 3D printed post is turned at the bottom to make a spigot which closely fits the Socket.

    I use Super Glue to finally fix the post in place.

    This photo shows the Brass Socket soldered into the baseplate.

    The Guide Tube (1/16in Brass tube) can be seen adjacent to it.

     

    I hope this answers your question.

     

    Steve.

     

    • Like 7
    • Informative/Useful 1
  9. More for Stowe Magna.......

     

    With the bracket signal completed, I've decided to deal with the other signals as a batch.

    I have progressed as far as the "static" assemblies:

     

    1332269965_2021-04-1916_51_24.jpg.3171e9bd25f34b37503f8d635b5e5440.jpg

    I showed the Rail Built post previously when describing its foundations. Here it is ready for cleaning etc. prior to painting.

     

    The other three signals are ex-LBSCR square posts with SR Upper Quadrant arms.

    201904511_2021-04-1916_51_49.jpg.0cbe5da648aebac522b8d3abd4a992f7.jpg

    The posts are 3D Printed by Shapeways - from Les Green's Shop : https://www.shapeways.com/product/P6AYJMKN5/2015-11-05-square-signal-post-v2?optionId=58364585&li=shops as are the Lamp-Bracket-Bearing

    These posts are hollow to allow the optical fibre to be concealed.

    The other components are from MSE/Wizard, Masokits etc.

     

    Just one Westinghouse Ground Disc to add before cleaning, painting and adding the moving parts..........

     

    Steve.

     

     

     

    • Like 14
  10. Hi Mike,

     

    It's all to do with ensuring the servo and the signal are in a position from which adjustments can be made.

    The maximum throw of the servo is very large compared to the amount of throw required to operate the signal.

    The servo has some fine movements at the end of each opertion.

    Starting from Danger, the movement is slow, with a pause for the signaller to adjust their grip.

    When the Clear prosition is reached, the servo travels a tiny amount beyond the end point and then sets back to simulate the signaller releasing their pull on the lever.

    To return to Danger, the servo first moves the tiny amount of "overpull" before returning to Danger quite quickly. This simulates the signaller pulling the lever to ease releasing the catch.

    When the signal reaches Danger, there is a small amount of Bounce built into the software. Some don't like it, but the majority do.

    The "Bounce" and "Pause" feature is switchable in the GF Controller.

    If the servo travels to the end of its throw, these fine movements are (or can be) lost.

    In order to protect the signal from excessive movement which can be quite damaging, the "Safe" or Mid-throw position is selectable in the GF Controller and I recommend it is used whenever the signal is removed from the layout.

    The software also minimises any "Twitch" at power up, which can be a problem with some controllers.

     

    Hope this makes everything clear?

     

    Steve.

     

    • Like 5
    • Thanks 1
    • Informative/Useful 6
  11. 20 hours ago, gz3xzf said:

    Steve

    Love the LED/optical fibre set-up, who supplies the LED holder/connectors. Also do you use a resistor between the battery and the LED?

     

    The LED to Optical Fibre connectors are available from Les Green's shop on Shapeways.

    https://www.shapeways.com/product/QRZ3TDVSC/led-connectors-for-printing-v4?optionId=74139707&li=shops

     

    Yes, I put a 1k ohm resistor in line with the feed.

    This is suitable for supply voltages from 9v to 15v.

    On installation I recommend using a 12v ring to supply all the signals on a layout.

     

    Hope this is helpful.

     

    Steve.

    • Thanks 1
    • Informative/Useful 3
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