newbryford

A quick tip for the plugs that may be a little loose.

Put a dab of PVA glue over the joint to stop them moving in the future.

If you ever need to unplug them later, the PVA can be peeled off.

Cheers,

Mick

Looking good!

Go with Replica for cantrail stripes and a DRS 37 for traction.

Cheers,

Mick

Ex-Courier Coach. Here's one in the WCRC fleet, used as a support coach for main line steam tours. 80217

HTH,

Mick

Hi,

I fitted conventional pickups on a TEA to power a tail lamp. If I get round to fitting lights to my autoballaster fleet, they'll have a similar pickup. I used veroboard strip and phosphor bronze wire. They can easily be made up before fitting. Couldn't find a way of posting a pic, so it's in Hints and Tips

ANother solution to make the wheel live to the axle. Use a small drill slighly larger than the thickness of the insulation and drill a hole through the plastic bush. The push in a piece of copper or nickel-silver wire of the same thickness to connect the wheel to the axle. To make the wire an "interference" fit, I gently squeeze the wire to slightly deform it from round

HTH,

Mick

The patch paint looks good.

I use Methylated spirit to remove Hornby nameplates/numbers. Not quite as aggressive as enamel thinners and consequently takes a bit more patience than enamel thinners.

If you want to see some good patch painting on 60's search out 60011 on fotopic (yes- I know it's blue.......)

Another small touch for a 60 - the cab footsteps - a tiny bit of silver paint to represent the worn edges of the steps.

My 60044 on the old rmweb

The topic it's in is also very useful.

Cheers,

Mick

Another quick detail for your MOA's. The white handbrake indicator is in the "ON" position. It's a two minute job to carve it off and replace with a small triangle of white plasticard pointing to "OFF".

Cheers,

Mick

p.s. Bachy MBA's have the same problem - ta to MJC for pointing it out!

 

 

Have you drilled out the headlight holes?

 

 

Hi Gordon, Thanks for the compliments. Yes - the headlight etches were soldered on, drilled out 1mm and then gradually enlarged with taper broaches. There are various combos of light fittings on these locos, but I've gone for one simialr to a JE Hunslet I built a couple of years ago.

Cheers,

Mick

Just been studying your photos - do the front window surrounds attach to the inside as it looks like the recesses are on the inside of the cab?

Oh f...! (flip!) Well spotted that man. I've fitted the front cab etch back-to-front. Probably not a good idea to disassemble the kit now. I'll see what it looks like with the window frame etch on the outside - as Mike's instructions say, some locos had black rubber surrounds - this may be the way to effectively disguise my cockup.

Cheers,

Mick

Ooh that chassis looks a cool design! What are the running qualities like?

Not tried on the rails yet, but it does seem very smooth with a couple of wires attached to the pickups.

Cheers,

Mick

 

 

Would I be correct in thinking that you are going to use a Bullant chassis?

 

 

Gordon A

Bristol

Hi Gordon,

Yes, I'm using the supplied Bullant chassis. Main problem will be where to locate the speaker for DCC sound!

Cheers,

Mick

looking good mick,what paint job will she be getting? regards,bob

Dunno yet. I'm looking into light/sound fitting it at the mo. Likely to be a bright colour with lots of Fox stripes! It'll probably have a couple of amber flashing lights also to comply with elf n safety.

Cheers,

Mick

Nice B)

 

I wonder if Micheal could be persuaded to scale the kit up to 7mm scale - these are brutally attractive locos

Dunno about that - this the the first Judith Edge "complete" kit with Bullant power unit included. However, I would guess that there are manufacturers out there with 7mm units to fit.

Cheers,

Mick