The Fatadder

That’s useful to know, but will download and have a look. my hope is that by replicating settings I can get the wrong decoder to work in the right way…

In the main 56 thread Cavalex posted the function mapping Obviously the proper chip will also have the logic commands driving other behaviours, but in theory from the above it should be possible to have control over headlights / marker lights / both fans (individually) and tail lights, so it will just be the cab lights that are lost. With direct control from the decoder to the function. I am assuming that these would all be voltage outputs rather than logic (which would explain why only the headlights are currently working). Per the Dapol instructions changing cv 59 to 0 will change this, I am hoping that will see a bit more life coming out of the functions. My assumption would be that this would required the switches set in the standard analogue / non ESU position, given it would still be lacking all of the additional ESU programming.

Yes, It was produced by a chap on the GWR Modelers Facebook group (I think he is the same person who is selling damaged seconds on ebay). He has done straight and curved Bulldogs, Birds and is now working on an Aberdare. The body / bogie are printed and are a straight fit on a Bachmann Earl chassis

I have been messing around with alternative decoders in my 56, I thought it might be worth taking some of the dcc discussions into its own topic to keep it separate from the general discussion (and easier to refer back to)

In an attempt to separate out the DCC content from the core thread on the new Cavalex Class 56. My hope is that separating this discussion out from the general discussion it will be a more useful point of reference in the future. Obviously the model is designed to be used with a specifically programmed Lokpilot 5 or Loksound 5 decoder. Some retailers (Trains4U and Road & Rails for a start) are selling these pre programmed, while Cavalex are working on a retrofit sound kit at some point in the future. In the meantime, if you have access to an ESU Lokprogrammer Cavalex / ESU have provided the required decoder information here https://projects.esu.eu/projectoverviews/8 ready to install on your decoder. Hopefully Cavalex will be able to share the CV mapping of these settings as a text file at some point in order that those without a lokprogrammer or a preset chip will be able to use alternative routes to programme their loco. The issues come if you want to use an alternative brand of decoder, be that a case that you dont like ESU chips (as some dont) or you are looking for a cheaper decoder. My first though was to try the Dapol Imperium 8fct, the logic being it offers 4 powered functions and 4 MTC logic outputs (as opposed to the Lokpilot with 4 powered and 6 MTC logic outputs). So in theory the cheaper decoder should get 75% of the functionality at half the price (I live in hope that the tail lights and working fan are on aux 1-4 and not on aux 6/7 that I do not have on this decoder.) Logically I am assuming that as both decoders confirm to the NMRA standards the decoder pin for aux 1-4 on the Dapol chip match that of the ESU chip. This is hard to confirm as while ESU publish a pin output diagram, Dapol do not appear to. So far I have tried the switches in both sets of positions shown in the manual, however the ESU decoder settings leave no working lights/fan. The analogue mode gives a high intensity headlight (direction controled) on F0/F1 and marker lights on F2/F3. but no working Aux functions for tails/cablights / roof fans. On the plus side this means that any 21pin 4 function decoder will give the most fundamental lighting required on a layout with the loco on the head of a train. The question now will be working out how to get those aux functions to do anything. My hope is that it will be possible to work backward from the cv data on the Lokpilot setup to work out how to get other chips which have 4-6 aux functions to get full control of the loco. (I am also hoping that I am not the only one going down this route of an alternative chip, and that someone else either already has worked it out or gets there before me!)

Thanks, that is perfect, I would say definitely green based on the contrast between the cab and the black outside frames. Which I am quite happy seeing as there is a tin of newly ordered GWR green arriving sometime this afternoon.

Hoping someone on here might be able to do me a favour I am trying to confirm the 1947 livery of curved frame Bulldog 3335, apparently there is a photo in the Maidment book on small wheel GWR 4-4-0s which alas is not in my library. Hoping someone on here may have a copy and be able to have a quick look to see if they think it is painted in green or black before I get the paints out on this

Having finally worked out why I couldn’t upload images, a couple of photos of 55078 now that Ive finished the weathering just need to get a decoder in it now

@RBE would it be possible to get these settings in a text file rather than in a proprietary ESU file format please? Fairly sure there will be quite a few people without a lokprogramer wanting to set their decoders up with decoderpro or with their controller.

Having a few issues since switching to a new phone running the latest version of ios17, When ever I try to upload a photo onto the forum I am getting a black rectangle. I think this is in some way related to Apple's new security features, with Safari now being set to "private access to photos" (a setting that as far as I can make out cannot be disabled). Further reading suggests that when the user clicks into an upload screen, that gives access to your photo album allowing the upload. What I cant tell is why this doesnt seem to work on the forum. Has anyone else running iOS17 had a similar problem (or better still found a solution) edit2: solved..... I assume there is a max file size on the forum which the default photo size was exceeding.

I had a pack of 3000 grit sanding sponges arrive today so the next step on 56078 was to sand back the remains of the Railfreight logos. This was followed by masking the doors / windows and giving the sides a coat of semi satin varnish. with that done the final step today was to add streaks from the roof, for this I have been using the dregs of paint in the bottom of my brush cleaning bowl! I will give it another day to dry before finishing off the side with powders.

I’ve done as much as I can weathering mine, the bodyside has to wait until I buff out the remains of the old logos and dust some varnish I’ve the shiny bits. roof was weathered with a grey / black mix before blending in with powders chassis was given a mix of black/ cam black brown and burnt umber. the edges of the steps were finished in gun metal before dry brushing with the dirt mix looking forward to getting the sides finished.

Try again, not sure what is happening there I have also made a start weathering the chassis, this time with a mix of German cam black brown, burnt umber and black. The light grey compressor is now somewhat hidden in dirt (as it was on the prototype by the end of 98/99) Nice to see my new phone can automatically cut out the background mess photographing a model on the work bench

For non named locos I use the custom plates from narrow planet, they need painting but are cheaper than everyone else

This evening I’ve started work on weathering 56078. As the sides still need a dusting of varnish there’s only so much I can do. But the roof as ever is the obvious start point. My usual mix for weathering a tripple grey roof is mostly Vallejo grey black (with some random shades mixed in). This brush painted over the roof before streaking with a large flat brush. Once dry Tamiya powders were used to blend it all together. looking at the photo I’m not entirely happy with the cross piece I added to the side grill which I think sits slightly back from the mesh so it’s not as visible as the OEM part. I might try removal and refitting

You’d have thought with all the talk of PoW heading down to the gulf to cover when Ike leaves station, they would have already been scrambling to find ciws just in case…

Need to get these ordered to finish off 078, though I have a feeling that would make the driver a newborn for the period I’m modelling 😉

Seeing as that is a transfer rather than OEM factory printing, my approach would be: First try soaking with water and then scraping off with a blunted cocktail stick or a thumb nail. If water is not enough to soften / shift it, I would up it to 75% IPA and try the same approach. I have had success with both before (in one case despite having varnished I was able to lift a locos number transfer from one model and move it onto another successfully). However, I have found HRMS transfers can be a bit of a pain, leaving behind a faint outline of the transfer. In this case I have some 3000grit sanding sponges to buff out the damaged area, apply gloss varnish before adding the new transfers and sealing in with a coat of satin / mat varnish.

I see there is talk in the press again (presumably around next gen destroyer) referring to reducing manning of future warships to as little as 50 men. While I can see how you could get to this with the use of automation etc, I wonder if this starts to get to the point where damage control becomes very difficult.

very nice work, always impressive to see someone actually finish an MTK kit, all the more so when you look at the finished model and cant tell its MTK!

had a delivery of small LEDs today so I’ve finally got on with finishing off 37025. I have soldered the new micro led (supplied with wires fitted) onto the high intensity pads on the pcb reusing the OEM resistor and shorting across the (removed) component for the OEM separate headlight control. the 2022 lighting board (complete with its extra led) was then hardwired to the last gen chassis (no need for those useless touch contacts). With that 37025 is ready for weathering, although that can wait until I have 37668 painted so both can be weathered at the same time

A little more on 56078 this evening, which has now been fitted with Dinghams, more details in the Cavalex 56 thread

If anyone is interested in fitting alternative couplings, I have just finished fitting Dinghams to my 56. Process would be the same if fitting scale couplings. The model needs a sight modification, as it comes there is a small bar in the centre of the coupling pocket on the buffer beam, this needs to be carefully cut to open up the slot. On the coupling itself, I filed down the tails of the coupling hook to approx 1mm thickness (matching the Cavalex part) before assembling the couplings. For the non loop end I added the Cavalex screw coupling to the Dingham hook, I dont know why I've never done this before as it makes a difference visually. I dont bother with the spring behind the headstock so the completed couplings were just superglued into position, if you do spring couplings it will likely involve the removal of the NEM pocket to provide space. As this provides the mounting point for the coupling guard below the bufferbeam that would need reworking. Nice and easy and another thing ticked off the list, should have the decoder tomorrow so I can finally start running the loco!

Thats a good question, this photo on Tim Horn's flickr was my inspiration, it only appears to be grey on one side (and 9 months later it was much less distinct due to the weathering. the part on the other side appers to be black as per the model. https://flic.kr/p/b6QnET To me the colour looks pretty similar to the rail grey bodyside As to whether its grey or duck egg blue I am not sure, I dont think it will matter once its dirty.

Talking of things that are not straight, when was the last time you saw a lineout thrown straight…