The Fatadder

Need to get these ordered to finish off 078, though I have a feeling that would make the driver a newborn for the period I’m modelling 😉

Seeing as that is a transfer rather than OEM factory printing, my approach would be: First try soaking with water and then scraping off with a blunted cocktail stick or a thumb nail. If water is not enough to soften / shift it, I would up it to 75% IPA and try the same approach. I have had success with both before (in one case despite having varnished I was able to lift a locos number transfer from one model and move it onto another successfully). However, I have found HRMS transfers can be a bit of a pain, leaving behind a faint outline of the transfer. In this case I have some 3000grit sanding sponges to buff out the damaged area, apply gloss varnish before adding the new transfers and sealing in with a coat of satin / mat varnish.

I see there is talk in the press again (presumably around next gen destroyer) referring to reducing manning of future warships to as little as 50 men. While I can see how you could get to this with the use of automation etc, I wonder if this starts to get to the point where damage control becomes very difficult.

very nice work, always impressive to see someone actually finish an MTK kit, all the more so when you look at the finished model and cant tell its MTK!

had a delivery of small LEDs today so I’ve finally got on with finishing off 37025. I have soldered the new micro led (supplied with wires fitted) onto the high intensity pads on the pcb reusing the OEM resistor and shorting across the (removed) component for the OEM separate headlight control. the 2022 lighting board (complete with its extra led) was then hardwired to the last gen chassis (no need for those useless touch contacts). With that 37025 is ready for weathering, although that can wait until I have 37668 painted so both can be weathered at the same time

A little more on 56078 this evening, which has now been fitted with Dinghams, more details in the Cavalex 56 thread

If anyone is interested in fitting alternative couplings, I have just finished fitting Dinghams to my 56. Process would be the same if fitting scale couplings. The model needs a sight modification, as it comes there is a small bar in the centre of the coupling pocket on the buffer beam, this needs to be carefully cut to open up the slot. On the coupling itself, I filed down the tails of the coupling hook to approx 1mm thickness (matching the Cavalex part) before assembling the couplings. For the non loop end I added the Cavalex screw coupling to the Dingham hook, I dont know why I've never done this before as it makes a difference visually. I dont bother with the spring behind the headstock so the completed couplings were just superglued into position, if you do spring couplings it will likely involve the removal of the NEM pocket to provide space. As this provides the mounting point for the coupling guard below the bufferbeam that would need reworking. Nice and easy and another thing ticked off the list, should have the decoder tomorrow so I can finally start running the loco!

Thats a good question, this photo on Tim Horn's flickr was my inspiration, it only appears to be grey on one side (and 9 months later it was much less distinct due to the weathering. the part on the other side appers to be black as per the model. https://flic.kr/p/b6QnET To me the colour looks pretty similar to the rail grey bodyside As to whether its grey or duck egg blue I am not sure, I dont think it will matter once its dirty.

Talking of things that are not straight, when was the last time you saw a lineout thrown straight…

There are separate bits of double sided tape in different sizes for the different parts. or alternatively the location guide is also useful for painting the scars from the plates removal

The q1 is probably my favourite southern design, just looks so ridiculous it’s hard not to love it. Wish some had been shedded in Exeter in 47 so I could justify one on the reciprocal route knowledge workings through Brent…

More work on 56078 First up, the prototype had a non standard bodyside grill on one side with an X brace for the first full panel at the cab end. I took some Evergreen 30 by 40 strip, painted it in Exec dark grey, and cut to seize before supergluing in position. Once dry paint was touched in from the front. Just noticed a small paint mark under the grill which has now been removed. Next up was adding the scars where the old BR arrows and Depot plaques had been removed. Cavalex’s excellent metal plate location guides were really useful here. For the plaque I used the guide to draw an outline and then touched it in with paint. For the BR plaque, I glued the etched plate onto a stick, applied paint to the back and pressed it onto the model (again using the Cavalex tool for alignment.) Afterwards tidying up with a blunted cocktail stick to thin the paint down. The final job was to paint the compressor on one side light grey, the prototype gained a new part in early 1998

It’s a 47

A couple of photos from the underside of one of my GWT resprays, Front and rear clips on the one piece bogie frame, these are pretty tough (I dont recall any failures, unlike Bachmann's similar design). The risk point here is damage to the upper part of the bogie mount as the guides that secure it in place into the chassis block are fairly small plastic extensions. In the unlikely case a wheel falls out you need to ensure it goes in the right way round so that the gears correctly mesh. if you are wanting to oil the worm directly, there are these two clips on either side. Again being careful not to damage those lugs that secure the bogie. Ive found if you work on it with the wheels on the workbench at least it stops the bogies falling out while the worm clip is removed.

Will have a quick look if I have any photos when I get home

Very carefully with a screwdriver between keeper plate and bogie if I remember rightly, there are a few bits (keeper plate and the bogie retention clips) that snap easily. The fitting that holds the bogie into the chassis block is particularly prone to it (2 of mine (both second hand buys) have had to have repairs here)

Looking at the spec sheet f3-8 are logic outputs per the Mtx specification so presumably that’s ok. for £22 delivered it will do the job for now and get the loco working with lights and fans (loosing the cab lights), and can get relegated into the deltic once I upgrade the 56 to sound. is any extra programming needed to get the fans working properly?

Re DCC, can you confirm how many real functions vs how many aux functions are required please? looking at the Dapol 8 function chip as a stop gap until it gets upgraded to sound, but trying to work out what would be lost vs the full fat lokpilot (and likewise what would be gained over a cheaper 6 function chip). pretty much convinced it will get upgraded to sound eventually, but getting another 37 sound (and a sound 60) is more pressing.

I have a fair bit of thought as to whether or not to faithfully replicate this for the thought of it just looking like a mistake.

that’s enough for this evening, will need to do some changes to buffers and cantrail grills before I can set to work weathering it. the upside down 8 on the br blue release made me think about replicating the damaged five on the no2 cab

Loco is now fully fitted with its new identity, along with replacing the ohle flashes. In keeping with the spirit of the main Cavalex releases I have replicated the prototypes damage to the 5 which is missing the top on one cab side. Next job will be sorting out the near cantrail grills and the buffers at the end shown in the photo above, before adding Dinghams and brake gear. Will need to think about getting a decoder ordered as well.

It makes a massive difference, along with the Shawplan Laserglaze kit to finish it off (which mine is still waiting for given the uselessness of my Hattons 1470 I can’t find the motivation)

New loco day…. A delivery of my Cavalex class 56, I went for 56074 as the closest of the initial releases. In my 1998/99 period 56078 was the only 56 to make it to Cornwall (I think there was also a Romanian loco in Dutch that for as far as Exeter). It arrived in September 98 on the rear of set of chocolate and cream mk1s behind King Edward I, then worked back light engine. Annoyingly this should have been my favourite 56 049 but it failed causing 078 to be substituted. In my world I’m going to make one small change for now, with the 56 pinched for a china clay turn before heading back up country. Eventually I would like the mk1 set to go with it along with the King (annoying as it is in BR condition). Back to the model, there are a few areas that need work: removing the coal sector logos, renumber, change ohle flashes, add Loadhaul cantrail grills, change the buffers at one end. Of course I will also need to add a crew so will pick up the modelu crew at Ally Pally (not sure if the driver @Southwich had been born in September 98 when the loco was in Cornwall 😂) This evening I’ve been working on removing the logos, using the process outlined by @James Makinin the Cavalex 56 thread. first the logo was covered in thinners and left for 30 seconds or so, then starting from the joint between the greys it was rubbed away. from some angles it looks pretty good however catch the light and not only do you see the shinyness, there is also some ghosting where you can see where the old logos diamonds were printed. My plan is to sand back with very fine wet and dry and then re varnish and weather. next up adding the new transfers. overall I’m really impressed with the model, amazing levels of detail (those cantrail grills!) Some great ideas (love the pre cut etched plates, the template for their application (and the fact there are no preprinted ones to remove). I can’t wait for the 60…

Quick additional update, followed James’ approach using Phoenix quick drying thinners (as that was what I had to hand). i started from the the grey joint and worked outward aiming to minimise the time spent working on the all important grey joint. close up there is the slightest damage to the grey line, but it’s within the tolerance I could mask to so I’m happy to leave. more concerning is the shinyness in certain light, and the ghosting of the coal sector diamonds. Now debating giving it a gentle sanding with ultra fine wet & dry before a dusting of varnish (meaning glazing removal will likely be required.)

That is my worry, worst case I have to respray the grey (at least that can be done with the glazing etc left in situ) James managed it, so it’s certainly possible.