The Fatadder

Villa Blackburn was good for a listen, but was a little annoyed that it wasnt possible to get the Arsenal game on the radio. seems a bit silly to me that the BBC have people at the ground, have an internet radio system, yet only broadcast 2 games.... Still, top of the league!!!

Very true, Just gone back and saw that post, very handy thanks. Also came across a couple more photos showing the valve gear etc, just need to get some solder now so I can crack on with it! Fingers crossed (assuming that the test run tomorrow night goes ok) I should get the valve gear all fitted next week. Going to have to do some hualage testing as well at some point, I am a little worried that the loco is not going to be able to manage the coaches! Given that there will be 10 pullmans (being a mixture of fully etched kits, and most with etched sides & cast underframes) along with a couple of Bachmann mk1s.........

Dont you just hate it when you spend absolutely ages looking for a photo, and then when you find it realise that theres a lot more work to do.... Came across this photo last night, http://www.jason-cottage.fotopic.net/p51561520.html, which gives a pretty clear view of the top of the tender. In the process confirming what I was afraid of that the recess cut into the back of the tender does have an open top (all be it with a grill over the top). The problem is that with a thick sided plastic moulding, even drilling it out would result in a much too thick side. My plan here then, is to draw up an etch for the grill which will be glued on as an overlay to the top of the back, and not model the hole under it. The photo also shows what I was originally looking for, in that the water filler cap has been replaced with two flaps (one on each side) which will now be added from 10 thou plasticard.

I've edited the first post with a photo. Need to order some flux from C&L so will get some 188 degree solder at the same time. In the past I've had problems getting the two parts to sweat together, despite applying the temp controlled iron set to its max temp (400odd degrees C) Not exactly sure what I've been doing wrong. The long rod on the RHS of the etch is 3 parts, should all 3 be sweated together at once? Finally, I understand how its intended to fix the two con rods together with a bit of .8mm brass rod, but how would you connect the the little bits (I see Hornby have used small rivets, but I guess thats not practical...) It looks like everything is there apart from the sliding bits by the cylinders (which would of course be one of the bits that ideally I wanted changing as ones a bit sticky on the slider)

Thanks, I knew that the instructions wouldnt be great, but did at least expect there would be a diagram or something..... Those diagrams on the chassis kits at least give me the right idea for the con rods and the other arm, and I've sussed out a couple more parts that I will use. Going to ignoor the other small bits as tbh I havent a clue how to put them together Any advice on what solder to use? I've been thinking about getting some solder paste to try, and was wondering if this would be a good application for it? I assume the standard technique is to tin both halves and then apply heat & pressure to get them together? (not a technique Ive had a lot of luck with)

The con rods etched arrived today from Bill Bedford, and I am now very confused! I can identify what some of the parts are, but have no idea about many of the other ones (for example the part that I have identified as the con rods, has 8 components. Its very clear which 2 are the top and bottom of each half of the con rod (that would be the parts with half etched detail on them.) but the other 4 bits just look like rectangles that are the length of each component. Is this some kind of test piece that you fit when test running a new loco to make sure it dosnt go wrong and muck up the new rods? As for assembly, I'm guessing its a simple case of solder them together with the half etched bits on the inside? Looking at the small components, I think that might be a bit much for my ability at this stage (my lack of knowledge on what bits of a steam loco are what dosnt help) My thinking is tending towards using the etched parts for the big components (the con rods and the link between them and the cylinder bits) then maybe think about going back to it and changing the other bits once I have a bit more experience at these things...

This is part copied from another topic I started earlier asking for help finding photos: Just came across this passage of test in the Pullman safety case Clearly this shows that for my 1998 formation, just having the green Mk 1 RKB 1566 is all that is required (and one of the steel sided Pullmans (i.e. the 1928 met cams or the ex 5Bell coaches). Another interesting point picked up from the report was that in 1998 'Gwen' was under heavy refurbishment (shown as a bare frame) so I think I will just end up doing Vera and Audrey to that design (thinking about it that explains why Gwen wasn't listed on the drawing) Moving on to the later period, the same report states For this they list 99538 (Baggage Car 9), 99545 (Baggage Car 11) and 6313 (Generator car). 2 of which being in use on the formation, with a third kept in reserve. Again this makes things nice and easy for me, 99538 is a direct match with the Bachmann model I have (+ I have a copy of the drawings for the inertia as well) whereas 99545 appears to be a different type. So 99538 it is then (along with the aforementioned 6313 Going back to the models, 6313 will be produced from a Bachmann Mk 1 BG, with the roller door formed from a section of Pikestuff door and a scratch built underframe. bit of a shame that the windows were not plated over at the same time (as the EWS gold stripe covers half of the window cross piece with the top half being red, an effect that I suspect will be a pain to paint!) Speaking of the windows, given that it needs the raised frame type I am going to have a go at modifying my BG window blank etch to model the frame (I know you can get stick on ones from Southern Pride, but I didnt have a great deal of success with them when I tried and I think an etch will better suit my style.) The ends need the extra steps removing, air breaks fitting and the roof detail needs checking to see that it matches the prototype. 99538 is a much more simple job, the inertia modifications have already been made following the VSOE drawing so all that remains is roof detail (making sure the correct roof vents are present), underframe will need conversion to air breaks, end steps need to be removed and finally it needs to have the window frames adding (again I'm quite tempted to etch my own here). Followed by a respray into chocolate & cream and some lining that looks a real pain (though no where near as much of a pain as the Pullmans themselves! Finally as previously mentioned 1566 will be built from a set of Comet sides & underframe castings on a Replica body/chassis. Should hopefully see Comet at Stafford (assuming I make it)...

Thanks dave, some interesting thoughts there. The A3's splashers have got beading around the top edge (would that be the beading issue you mentioned?), and are lined as well, both tasks Im not to happy working on, however this is going to be my backup option if all else fails. Given that I plan on using this as a backup, I have set about attacking the inside of the splashers with a file, so far I appear to have got the rear set sorted (so the middle set will be a pretty straight forward job, needing slightly less plastic removing) the front set is the one thats proving to be an issue. So far I have removed enough plastic to get it to the width the other two were at when I started, the wheels will now fit in (just wont rotate.) still another 0.25mm needs to come off each side, which I worry will take me rather close to breaking through. The other problem I have suffered is that in gripping the body to hold it in position while filing, I'm starting to cause damage (one smoke deflector is now half broken off.) not a lot that can be done to prevent it as the details are glued in too well to remove, and light handling just means the file is not effective. Still shouldnt be too difficult to repair when the time comes..... The final problem I can see is going to be with the balance weights, my first thought had been to etch a set out of 5thou stainless next time I do a test etch (the idea of cutting an accurate semi circle just dosnt appeal) the problem is that I worry this would further increase the width of the wheel (and hence make all of my hard work filing of little use...) I think I will continue trying to use the Hornby chassis for the time being, and consider a complete replacement

Thanks, sounds like theres a lot more materiel there than there was on the A3 so hopefully it wont be such a problem, Will keep an eye out if I see one going for a bargain price! One other question, which castles have been running on the mainline since 1998?

Not really a lot to say on this, other than its a much more difficult conversion than Clan Line was. The big problem at the moment is that there is not enough space inside the splashers to fit the new wheels. Off the top of my head the 'front to front' width of the new wheels is 22mm, the rear and centre splashers have a clearance of 22.5mm between them, whereas the front wheel only has 21.5mm clearance. I can see 4 possible courses of action: 1) give up - not really an option given that it will take so much effort to rebuild the chassis to get the loco in a sellable condition, unless I could make back what I paid for it this just isnt an option. 2) file out the splashers to get more clearance on each one, by my reckoning the middle and rear splasher are each about 0.8mm in thickness, I hope to be able to reduce this by half without weakening them too much (thus getting 1mm or so clearance on those two axles). The big problem is the lead axle, while the rear/centre splashers are attached to the boiler, the lead one is attached to the running plate (thus a lot harder to remove and less of an indication as to their width. in order to get enough materiel removed I am worried that it will go through the plastic 3) I know that with other wheels Gibsons are often a bit wider than the alternatives, it would be interesting to know the width of the Ultrascale option. The final option would be the Exactoscale product (which from experence are normally a scale width and will fit where other wheels wont. But I doubt they could be made to work with the Hornby chassis 4) which leads to option 4, by far the most expensive option, use the exactoscale wheels along with an etched chassis For the time being I think the best course of action is going to be to put it all to one side and concentrate on other projects. Firstly I really should find out just how well Clan Line works before starting another large loco, secondly the Hornby A3 chassis has taken a backward step from that in the MN in that they have got rid of the sprung rear axle. This does result in a bit of a worry as to how well a completely solid chassis will run (baring in mind that it has 4 fixed axles). Tis all a bit of a shame really, as I really fancy getting a Castle at some point and that suffers from the same issue what wheels probably wont fit. Hopefully Gibson will soon have the drivers for City of Truro available and I can get on with converting that instead! A quick question, just to set my mind at rest. what should the distance be between the outside face of the splasher and the outside edge of the plate it sits on?

At the moment the only one thats sound fitted is 207, this will probably get transferred to 521 once that arrives (so that its in something a bit more relevant to the layout) Quite tempted to get one of my 66 chips reblown for a 37 as well....

Something will happen with that eventually, however there is currently something of a problem in that the bogie the dodgy frames are fitted to has a crack along it, and I am rather suspect of doing major work to it that would apply more force to that crack. What I would ideally like to do is use the bogies from the next loco to hack up the good end to make one good bogie for the no2 end, then cast the frames and re use them on all my projects. The other thought being to wait until Bachmann's announcements in March just in case a 59 appears (which really wouldnt surprise me) If Bachmann were to do a 59, then the bogies would be a lot better than Lima's effort, and chances are be on of the main details which will tell the two models (mine and the Bachmann) apart. As such if that happened I'd make a casting of the Bachmann bogie and use that to fit to the lima/Bach hybrid. Will be collecting the body/chassis for 59104 and 002 on Sunday, so once I've got the bogies from those to hand I will have a play and see what I come up with.

Finally got on and 'finished' 37667 today, fitting the Shawplan etched headcode boxes to the end. These were added after suffering issues with seepage under masking tape when I originally tried masking off the black head code boxes. Still not happy with the look of the sandite port, suspect that I am going to end up having to replace this with a custom etch at some point to add the missing bolt head detail (I know the etch came with half etched marks to press through the bolts, but having cut out the centre to get the correct depth it resulted in an etch that was too fragile to press out the bolts. The photo I was working from showed it at a slight angle, though I think I might have it set at slightly too much of an angle. Again not a lot that can be done there. Still needs to get a new roof grill and correct nose grills (both will get done at the same time once parts are available), and there is a need for some chassis detail (air tanks & separate fuel tanks) but thats going to have to wait until I decide what I am going to do with the loco. With this loco nearing completion, its got me thinking about my Class 37 fleet, and the feeling that I have too many of them. The class 37 is a very odd loco, I think the real thing is actually rather unattractive, as are a fair proportion of the liveries carried, so given I make a lot of my decisions on what to model based on looks I cant quite understand why I have so many. The noise the prototype makes would have something to do with it (and I guess that recollection of them from uni). As mentioned before, I have 4 main operating periods, (all be it with 2 of them on hold for the time being). 1998/99 37672 - Transrail, this is a Bachmann model which has been resprayed to correct the colour of the grey's used. 37670 - EWS - modelled with no sandite gear limiting it to 98 37521 - EWS - again modelled with no sandite gear. 2002/3 37667 - EWS - As detailed above with detail variations 37612 - DRS - currently awaiting repainting to fix where the paint peeled off with masking. Again details such as the reinforced windscreen limit this to post 2000. I suppose it is possible to just run 670 and 521 in the 2002 period with the sandite side facing towards the operator, though saying that I think 2 locos per period is probably enough, so maybe adding sandite to either 670 or 521 once I have sorted the new etch would balance things out nicely..... There is also another pair in 411 and 417, both of which are out side of my time period and really aught to be sold on. However they are the only locos in my fleet that I really have any connection to the prototype (bringing back memories of them thrashing out of Queen Street past Cardiff University's Engineering department), and as such I'm rather attached to them.... 37417 - I dont think this was named until 2004, however this and 411 are really good memories of my time in Cardiff (with the Engineering department next to Queen Street station, and Class 37 loco hauled workings going past. One thing I really missed when I was studying at Loughborough was the lack of a railway line & Class 37s passing by the window!) 37411 - Completely out of period and cant even be slipped in on the edge of period like 417. Following my new 'rules' for clearing out surplus stock, I really aught to be getting rid of this (and 417) but for the time being sentimental value is over rulling common sense. I suspect that one day when I have a proper railway room, these will be joining the prototype deltic and my sole remaining Hymek in a display case..... (or I suppose I could just build that Cardiff layout.............) For 1984-5 there are 3 locos 207 - Cornish Railways 235 - BR Blue 196 - Large logo grey and for 1987-88 412 - Large Logo blue 673 - RFD 675 - Redstripe Again I think for both of these its probably one loco too many, however for 80s China Clay running the 37 is such a critical loco its probably handy to have a third on hand in case one of the other two dies. In all this seems to have been a rather silly exercise writing this all up, given that I dont really want to part with the only 2 locos which are out of period/area. Still, the next job is going to be going through my Class 50 fleet and deciding which of those are surplus, going to be some very hard decisions there! Made even more difficult by the forthcoming release of more detailing bits for them from Shawplan, which sadly makes it look like the pride of my fleet, the weathered Implacable & Victorious will be the first to make the trip over to the Classifieds

Quick favour to ask of anyone who needs to take the body off, I could really do with someone putting a micrometer across the inside of the covers over the top of the wheels. I've just realised that my Hornby A3 dosnt have enough room between them to fit proper wheels, and I dont really want to end up buying a Castle and finding out that the same is true with that.

Highly valued yes, profitable, no. Last years figures were something in the region of a ??30m loss, this years would have been a loss of a similar size if it wasnt for the sale of Ronaldo......... Hardly sounds profitable to me....

Having sourced a pack of Evergreen 5/16th" tube at the Warwick show yesterday, I've now got the air tanks fitted to 59004. This was a case of fitting the small tank end to the 2 lengths of tube, then filing to shape before gluing on the other end. 2 lengths of 40thou by 80thou strip were glued to the top to act as a base to glue to the main chassis. All that remains now chassis wise (other than painting) is to add the missing bits from the no2 end bogie. The body still needs a lot of work, those side grills have got to go! but thats going to have to wait... I fitted new etched plates on the DEMU stand at Warwick, bit of a cock up really as I have brought and fitted the original name (Yeoman Challenger) rather than Paul A Hammond (although I think the former is a much better name!) Will need to get yet another set of plates next time I see Brian (that will be the third set of plates purchased for this loco, given it was originally renamed to 005 from its original 002. I've now got thinking that I may actually stick with the Yeoman Challenger plates on one side of the loco, having found some photos showing it in the west country in my late 80s modelling period Tomorrow (Actually that would be today now!), out with the paints! One other area I am looking at is the exhaust silencer, which looks rather under scale. Unfortunately knowing that the roof profile is a bit iffy, its hard to tell if the errors with the silencer are as a result of the errors on the roof (and that a correct silencer might look more wrong than an incorrect one.)

Edit 1/1/20: I am debating reserecting this project later in the year, so have been spending some time updating the research. Updating this old blog as a good starting point... My intention is to revisit this post again later this evening to add in photos of the current state of each build. This is another one of those long term projects which rears it head now and again, given the length of the rake it is far longer than anything which can realisticly be fitted on my current layout. The intention is to put together a full VSOE formation in 1998 condition, it will initially be built in OO while I decide on my future layout direction (with the added benefit it will get a run on Brent when playing with modern stock). The intention is to build an accurate formation (so no using the same Hornby coaches for everything). Pullmans are well outside of my area of expertese, so I have tried to keep things simple and stuck with the year of build (at any rate VSOE significantly rebuilt everything anyway). This thread also had some details I am planning to expiriment with the Precision Lables product for the Pulmann livery elements, to see how I find the end finish. The thought of lining these coaches has been one of the main stumbling blocks preventing their compleation. ____________________________ Minerva - ECML 1927 Parlour 1st This is the only example of the new Hornby model which is suitable for my formation, and its also the one which needs the smallest amount of work to get to a usable condition. Other than a requirement for Gresley bogies, air break equipment and a repaint eventually to match the rest of the rake. Inside I plan on painting to match the prototype, but first need to check and see if there were any modifications made to the layout in VSOE service. the working table lamps will almost certainly have their power removed to get a consistent rake. Current Status: Out of the box Ione 1928 MCW Parlor kitchen 1st This will be a conversion of an original Hornby Pullman with Comet etched sides as a conversion intoa kitchen first. It has also requires the rebuilding of the roof (to get the vents in the right place for a kitchen) and file down the oversized roof ribs. The body was first prepared by cutting the windows open to a bigger size than the new holes (so as to make glazing easier.) It will need to be fitted with MJT gresley bogies, and new underframe trusses. The interior requires major work to scratch build the kitchen. I will be needing Ibis as well which should follow similar construction. Current Status: New sides fitted, roof detail started but incomplete, chassis unstarted. Zena, Lucille - 1928 MCW Parlour 1st Again these are based upon the old Hornby model with the Comet sides. This corrects a slight error in the location of the toilet window, as well as giving a consistant finish with Ione. The interior needed a slightly less major modification to get it to match the drawings. The Comet etches are not great, there is a lot of surface detail on these coaches (raised ribs etc) which is missing on the etch and will need gluing on from plastic strip. I did draw up an etch for the sides for Ibis but never made it. Im now thinking about running it through the Silouette cutter and making a set of plastic sides... Following the update I have made to my Centenary build (the last completed stock with etched replacement sides), I will needThe three 1928 coaches have a very distinctive riveted roof which Triang/Hornby did not model. While I have filed back the roof ribs to get a slightly improved finish, its not by a long way correct. I am now considering whether or not I add this detail with Archers transfers, or live with it. I am hoping I can stomach the latter, as otherwise it may be easier to buy 3 of the "new" Hornby 1928 pullman and modernise those... Current Status: As per Ione Cygnus, Phoenix ex Festival of Britain 1951 stock This is the hardest part of the formation to model through a combination of a lack of available kit components along with the fact that they were heaivily rebuilt by VSOE to look more like the traditional Pullmans (noteably the oval toilet windows). However they are fairly similar to the 1927 built coaches, with 3 main areas of differnece: The roof (Minerva has a continous rainstrip and cutaways over the doors, the ex1951 coaches have only got rainstrips over the doors while the roof has no cutaways.) The doors are completely different designs, and the ex1951 windows are shorter (so there is a band of cream above and below the window frame). Sorting the roof will make a big difference, I have seen it done before on the forum using filler, however my approach is to build it up in plasticard and finish off with filler. I had originally planned to to etch new sides / doors in order to fix the window issue. However now I am tending towards an easier approach, the doors are a simple job with the Shilouette cutter (chopping the whole door out of the model and refitting with a laminate of 20thou plasticard. The side could be done the same way, however I think just adding a strip of 30 thou plasticard to the top and bottom of the window frame will do the job. They will of course also be needing Gresley bogies / air brake equipment. Current Status: 2 Hornby 1927 builds as Cygnus and Minerva Audrey ex 5 Bel kitchens. The final coache that is planned will be an ex 5 Bell kitchen. Lots of work was done to these in overhaul, particularly around the chassis so there will be a lot of work needed to modifiy a Hornby Brighton Bell coach. The ride height was changed to match the other stock in VSOE's fleet and they were fitted to B4 bogies. I will need a cheap single Brighton Bell coach (or even a body only) for conversion, but its rather a long way down the procurement list. I do keep my eyes open for damaged stock that might do the job... The last coaches to model are the mk1s on the ends, reading through some period documentation it seems that it only needed a mk1 on one end for saftey reasons, however photos do not appear to show this as common practice. Instead there are a massive range of vehicles seen sandwiching the VSOE in 1998. The first candidate (appearing in quite a few photos) is a mk1 RKB 1566 in Southern Green livery. This has been modeled using Comet sides to reskin a Bachmann Mk1 buffet. At the other end it is a little less clear (if only the proliferation of digital photography had come a few years sooner!) Mk1 brake 99538 looks to be the ideal candidate for the other end, given it is in simple BR Chocolate and Cream livery and will be an easier paint job. Although I have no idea when it was introduced EWS BG Generator van 6313 would be a bit more interesting (I think it was a slightly later early 2000s addtion though.) As for haulage haulage, lots of interesting options have cropped up so far. With a quick scan of Flickr coming up with a Large Logo 50050, a Royal Train and a RES Class 47 and Clan Line. The latter is alredy in the fleet (though half converted to P4), as is a RES 47. Finally the formation, an area which I am struggling with (not helped by having no true working to model). I have found a good photo (linked on the formations page) from which my best guess is the below (having changed the mk1 arrangements to fit my plans). Mk1 RFB 1566, Lucille, Ibis, Phoenix, Audrey, Ione, Minerva, Zena, Cygnus, mk1 BCK 99538

Spent today at the Warick show demonstrating on the demu stand. Didnt manage to get a whole lot of modelling finished (a combination of traders not managing to make it there, and me forgetting to bring stuff) but did have a good day despite it. Impressions of the show was something of a mixed bag, some good layouts (although not really enough of real interest to me other than Almwich), if ICM and Bill Bedford had been there trade would have been 'ok', without them it was only really shawplan and the stockets of plastic kits whos name escapes me, that was of interest, the rest was far too many people selling the same boxes or 2nd hand tat... Spending wise, I managed to get hold of the plastic tube needed for the Class 59 air tanks (sadly had forgot the box containing the rest of the 59 bits so couldnt get on with fitting them). 2 pairs of ASF bogies to finish off my other two salmon finally (though given they are in Devon it will be something of a wait until I can get them fitted...) From Shawplan I came away with some paint to touch up the red on 47768, new headcode boxes for 37667 and a set of plates for 59004 (which most annoyingly, I have got the wrong name (004 has carried 2 names in its life), of course given that I've fitted them its too late to send them back so will have to buy another set of plates. that will be the 3rd set of plates brought for this loco (it was originally out the box as 59002, this was then renamed to 59005 which was then removed when I started the detail project (given that 005 was in Revised FY by the time I am modelling) and on went the 59004 plates, so now it needs set no 3 to put on the right names..... I know many modellers have a very good memory for loco names and numbers, but frankly I have better things to remember (and for the best part I tend to forget those as well!) Biggest disappointment was the failure to source any South East Finecast brick plastic sheet thats holding up work on construction of the layout (might make a trip down to St Albans tomorrow and give there a try... The final purchase was a Hornby 1928 pullman from the host club's 2nd hand stand, the model was in something of a state part prepared for Comet sides (holes opened up for the windows which will hopefully be in the right place!) and fitted with the new Comet doors. Modelling wise, other than fitting the plates to 59004 and fitting a decoder into 47709 I didnt get a great deal done (too much time spent talking!) but still an enjoyable way to spend a Saturday. Will get on and finish off the 59 tomorrow......... The main body of todays work focused on the pullman, removing raised detail from the sides along with tidying up the window holes, removing all of the roof vents/pipes, sanding down the roof ribs so that they arnt so ott, and finally removing the etched doors so that they can be properly fitted (with the right sized hole behind them for the window). Its now ready for fitting the new sides and scratch building a new underframe. This will be finished as 'Zena' (joining my existing models of Lucille and Ione). Until I next go back to Devon and pick up the box file containing the VSOE project, there's not a lot more I can do (in that I am lacking the etches & castings that are needed.)

Thanks for that link, looks a rather handy website. Once the transfers are fully dry I will over paint the 14x number and replace with the correct one. Now wishing even more that the transfers had pre made numbers, as adding 10 wagons worth of 2 sets of 5 numbers is going to be fun....

I've now added most of the transfers to one side of the first wagon. (just needs tops code and number) The Fox sheet is intended for the 2nd version of the livery carried by these wagons, this has a slightly wider blue band than the 3rd version of the livery that I am doing. If the transfers were straight it would be a simple case of cutting them down to size, but of course they aren't..... _ I started by trying to fit as intended, but as I suspected the new ribs stop this from working (the Lima rib is more of a / \ patten, whereas mine are square.) I then carefully applied the transfer for the first letter and first rib, then made a cut before the 2nd letter (repeating for the rest). I found this rather difficult to get them straight, so the next one I will try cutting before fitting (a little more tricky as they arnt all the same width.) I have 2 wagons worth of spare transfers (the transfer pack comes with 6 wagons worth) while I would much prefer to keep these for use on future wagons (no doubt I will end up wanting more PTAs at some point!) it does at least give me some spares to expiriment with. Will have a try at reducing the hight on the next one as well... As for this one, my plan is to let it dry, then carefully cut a straight line on the top and bottom of the logo at the correct hight, then scrape off the unwanted bit. I am missing a couple of the small logos (the blue one on the right hand side is the most noticeable) The final decision I need to make is what to do about tops codes / numbers, the sheet includes transfers for both PTA, JUA and JTA. I assume that JUA/JTA are specific to inners and outer wagons (JTA and JUA respectively) and would be more appropriate for wagons in my era. Saying that, this gallery http://wagons.fotopic.net/c1490381.html shows a couple of PTAs in Yeoman in storage/scrapping in the late 2000s still with PTA branding (the only photos I have seen with JTA branding are a set with all the logos painted out on Martyn's fotopic.) The numbers are a bit of a pain really, sadly the sheet dosnt come with any made up number sets, but has got the PR 14x done. However looking at photos I havent seen a Foster Yeoman PTA in the 14x number series, they are all numbered in the 26x series (and looking at photos on Paul's fotopic, they were in the 26x series in both previous liveries (including the one the transfers are designed for.) Were any PTAs numbered 140xx / 141xx /142xx ?

My first PTA is now finished, awaiting transfers (which will hopefully arrive tomorrow) The rest still need a 2nd coat of grey paint, the conditions at the moment were very awkward so I only bothered putting the effort in spraying the wagon that I have finished bogies for (the rest can wait to be painted once I have a better conditions!) Transfers are by Fox, using the sheet intended for PTAs, a sheet of CAIB logos and a sheet of big Y logos intended for POAs. The large Yeoman logo will be modified slightly cutting the individual sections from the transfer for between each rib and then using the rest of the sheet applied over the ribs (if that fails I have some yeoman blue paint to touch up the gaps.) The other job tomorrow is going to be soldering up my first set of Masokits screwlinks, to fit to the outer end (its already been fitted with a Kaydee no5 at the inner end.)

It should have uploaded ok, certainly when I've been getting that error message the photos still appear on the posting once I click submit. If not, my email is thefatadder at hotmail.com Thanks again Rich

Thats the sort of thing I like to hear! Will have a go at repositioning them this afternoon and see how I get on.

Rear truck mk2 Thanks to Dave Holt for sending me some photos showing the rear truck & cab area, I've set about trying to correct the position of the rear truck. In my last post on this it looked much too low, partly this was as a result of me fitting the spacer washer on the wrong side of the mounting arm (meaning that it wasnt lowering the truck). I also remounted the sideframes a little higher, so that they were better located. Looking at the attached photos it still looks like there is a bit too much space above it. I think this might be in part a result of the compromises Hornby had to make in order to get the truck to go round toy curves, as again in comparison with Dave's photos it looks like the bottom of the part above the truck (firebox?) is at too sharp an angle, and the bottom 5mm from the side of it are missing. This will all be added from plasticard when I start working on the cab mounting brackets, frames and headstock (though I dont really want to start working on this until I have got it to a state where I dont have to take the body off again (i.e. once the valve gear/con rods are fitted and its been tested & DCCed.) Lack of a DC controller is still holding up progress, on this front as it still hasnt been tested.

At the moment I still hope on being able to find them, there are only a couple of places where they could be (annoyingly both of those places are a complete mess!) If not, last time I saw them MB models sold spares, so will be trying them to hopefully buy some new ones.