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The Fatadder

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  1. The Fatadder

    Finney 2251 pt2

    By The Fatadder,

    A little more work on the 2251 
     
    the smokebox was rolled and fitted to the boiler, before soldering to the firebox and footplate.  
     
    Next up was the cab, adding the beading to the cutouts, followed by the handrails before soldering the sides into position on the footplate.  I much prefer Malcolm Mitchell’s design than Finneys in this area, the sub etch for the cab.  
     
    finally the roof was added along with its formers.  
     
    With that the core of the loco body is competed, the build will now enter the detailing stage.  There are still a lot of etched parts to solder on...




  2. The Fatadder

    Mitchell 73xx

    By The Fatadder,

    Another long term unfinished project is this Mitchell 73xx, with the Dapol model imminent I really want to get on and finish it.  The model was built in a complete state (less wheels) from eBay years ago, and the paint finish was never quite up to standard.
    The chassis is built to P4 standards, it will be rebuilt back to OO thanks to Andrew @ullypug who sent me some left over OO spacers from his own P4 mogul build.
     
    the loco will be finished as 7313 based on an interesting photo of the loco running with a 4 coach train containing a centenary and an ex LNWR coach 
     
    The plan will be:
    Strip the body
    Add boiler handrails
    fix the forward mud door cover on the LH side (which looks like a miss punched part).
    New buffers
    And of course rebuild the chassis.
     
    The tender will also need work, needing a new OO sub chassis building (I have a Comet part ready to go).
     
     

    The results after a night in a bag full of oven cleaner, still a few patches which need to be finished off with the fiberglass pencil, along with a couple of parts to reattach.  Then it will need a new coat of etch primer and will be ready for spraying green (along with the 
    Bird in the new year).
     
    The chassis needs a lot more work, the first task is to remove the existing chassis spacers, brake gear etc in order to replace with the narrow spacers.   My thinking is to cut the whole chassis in half with a cutting disk, making it easier to remove the remains of each spacer one at a time.  This should minimise the risk of any damage to the frames themselves. 
     
    There is a lot of lateral slop in the hornblocks, which will need fixing (as with the 2251 I am tending towards soldering the forward bearing into position and keeping the freedom of movement in the middle one.  
    I have a Poppy's Woodtech jig coming at Christmas, so any work on the new chassis will have to wait until after the 25th.

     
    with the body work finished, it was given a coat of etch primer and is now ready for paint.  Work one on the chassis will start after Christmas 

  3. The Fatadder

    Finney 2251

    By The Fatadder,

    Time to finish off another couple of long term residents of the work in progress shelf.  This Finney 2251 was picked up as a body only kit via ebay a few years ago, I also picked up a set of P4 ultrascales (with inside motion) and was hopefully the seller would find the chassis (he didn't).   With a return to P4 steam a long way off, and no evidence of a 2251 through Brent there was nothing to motivate me to get it built.   However now a combination of finding a 2251 at Newton Abbot in September 1947 2212 coupled with a desire to work on another kit has seen it hit the workbench.  
     
    First up a recap of the current status.
    The footplate and firebox have been built previously, as have the chassis frames (although this is going to need to be dismantled and rebuilt with OO spacers.  The chassis is from High Level and was being built with CSBs, so rather overkill in OO.  I think my solution will be to solder the hornblocks into position on the front and rear axles. and keep the compensation on the centre.   Speaking of wheels, my intention is to reuse a set of wheels from a Bachmann 2251.  They need to be modified to work with the Finney rods, the plan is to file down the crankpins so they are flush with the boss.  Then bore out the holes to accept a Gibson crankpin bush/crankpin Epoxied into place.    If it works, perfect, if not a set of Markits will be added...
     
    Onto the build.  The original build halted when I had to form the boiler / smokebox and didn't have a set of rolling bars.  Now I have the bars I got on with one of the worst tasks in loco building.  I don't know what I am doing wrong, but when ever I roll a tapered boiler it always seems to be about half a mm too small to go fully around the formers....  
     
    The smokebox will follow tonight, then I can get on with the cab (I have no photos of the loco so I am assuming it still has the plated over windows and wartime black paint.)

  4. The Fatadder
    Another evenings work on the Manor chassis and it is finally complete and ready for painting.  The first job was adding soldering up the brake shoes and installing them onto the chassis frames.  With that complete, the wheels could be removed (marking the right hand side (looking towards the chimney) with black pen so that they could be returned to the same positions.  A slight error was soldering the cylinder assembly into position, as it makes removing the lead driver rather difficult.  I have had some problems with the (Gibson) bogie wheels rusting from coming into contact with flux, in future must remember to remove the bogie when doing further soldering to the chassis!    With the wheels off the chassis, balance weights were fitted (this is my first Comet kit of the new style which include the balance weights).  Once dry the wheels were painted with a mix of grey black, black and coach window mahogany to get a dirty track colour.)   The chassis now needs to be cleaned, primed and then painted in the same dirty black before reassembly.  At which point I really must get on and finish the backhead, glazing and handrails to complete the loco.   The latter being a job I really hate doing, getting the curve right for the front…

     
    Given that I had a lot of paint left over, I decided to put it to good use on a bit of weathering.  Beenham Grange was the loco of choice, this was an experiment in improving Hornby’s GWR green earlier in the year (unfortunatly a bad reaction with the varnish which spoiled the finish.)  This had previously been sorted out with a lot of effort with a fiberglass pen getting rid of the crackled finish.  Weathering was a fairly basic approach, covering about a square inch with a watered down mix of the grey/red/black mix  before wiping most of it away.  This was repeated several times to build up the dirt, before repainting the black areas with a thicker mix.  More grey was added to the boiler /firebox top & roof, while the smokebox was picked out in grey black.  I ran out of paint before finishing the tender only having enough to do the sides, so the black bits still need more work…

  5. The Fatadder
    As ever the first week of the month is crazy busy at work, leaving not a lot of time for any modelling once I get home.
     
    However over the past few nights I have managed to do a little work, progress on the Bird is now fully on hold pending Spring and warmer weather to allow for painting.  (it will be green, but I have yet to confirm the tender branding, with a fair few photos showing Bulldogs/Birds with G W R that is looking the likely choice.
     
    This lead to a revisit of the workbench to find something else to work on. The first two candidates (finishing my Finney 2251 and rebuilding the chassis of my Mitchell 73xx to OO) were both blocked due to a lack of wheels I need to buy some Markets for them, but the funds are not there right now…  I was about to start work on the chassis build for my Saint, when I spotted the remaining parts for the chassis under my Manor.  So its about time I got on with finishing it off.
     
    Of course the first thing to do when picking up an in progress project several months after last working on it is to identify what is required.
    Add the handrail to the body, it needs holes drilling for the handrail knobs, forming the handrail and gluing into place.  The plan is to solder the handrail to the knobs to help hold it in place.  I cant do a great deal on this as I will need some shorter handrail knobs for the firebox, the problem Solder up the con rods (at present the rolling chassis just uses one part of the rods Add the crosshead / rod assembly Fit brake gear Fit balance weights to the wheels, this will probably be done at the painting stage when the wheels are removed for the final time. Paint the chassis Eventually it will also need a motor / gearbox fitting, though again cost constraints have pushed that to the right.  
    The work so far has focused around the con rods and cross head.  The first job was to find the missing crosshead (which from memory was the reason work stopped in the first place), with that found and fettled to fit the cylinders attention could turn to the con rods.  (As an aside, I am getting very disappointed with the quality of the Comet crosshead casting, with lots of flash to remove along with a rod that is anything but straight.)   
     
    The con rods had the overlays soldered into position, test fitting each side onto the model before moving onto the next.  The lead crankpin was shortened enough to clear the slide bars, before another rolling test with the cylinders fitted to confirm clearances.  A thinned down Markits crankpin nut secured it in place, but clearances are still very tight.  I am thinking about opening up the con rod and screwing the nut into the rod to add another half mm or so each side. 

    Finally was the cross head / rod assembly, again soldering up the two layers and attaching to the crosshead with a brasspin.  The hole at the hole at the driving wheel end was bored out to accept a crank pin nut through it, before reassembling (with a spacer fitted to keep the driven rod away from the lead crank pin).  The process was then repeated for the other side.


     
    Next up will be fitting the brake gear, before stripping the whole thing down to paint the chassis.  This time I want to try and make the brake gear removable as I have found it a real pain getting access to fit pickups on my 4700/County due to brake gear getting in the way!  While the loco is not getting a motor yet, it will eventually and I don't want to make my life difficult!
     
     
  6. The Fatadder
    Not a lot more to report.
     
    first up the bogie has been almost finished, the frame needed to be lowered by about a mm vs the sub frame.  It does still need a tidy up of the inner end of the frames which are not square at the joint between the front frames and the deep part.  
     
    I have now given it a final coat of etch primer to seal in the rivets (as an aside I am very impressed with the Archers product


     
    So the model has gone from this

     
    to this

     
    It’s a shame it’s far too cold to airbrush or I would get it painted.  Of course if it was to be painted black it would be a lot easier as I find I can spray Halfords satin black a lot colder than I can airbrush...

    I have found this photo on the internet showing the loco at withdrawal (I think).  So is it green or black?  I suspect the former (but hope for the latter).
    http://trainphotos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/edd/2015/05/3449-Nightingale-GWR-Bird-Class-Copyright-1560x975.png
  7. The Fatadder
    Hopefully this is the penultimate blog before the Bird enters the paint shop, (so I really need to confirm its colour!)
     
    The first job was a couple of minor repairs after cleaning and priming the model, a handrail had come unsoldered and somewhere along the line a lower step had broken off.  These were quickly soldered back into position before the real work could start.  This was followed by gluing the reverser cover into place (which should have been fitted the night before…)   There were also a couple of areas which needed a small amount of filler.
     
    With that done attention turned to the smokebox, using Archers rivet transfers to add the ring of rivets around the front and rear edge.  This was my first time using the product and I have to say I am impressed.  It now needs another coat of primer to seal them all in before the next stage of work on the body.
     
    Next up the bogie.   As mentioned last night the bogie fitted to the model appeared to be scratch built, and had a number of errors (no rivets, missing the raised sections behind the wheels and the wheelbase was about 3mm too long.)  The solution to which was to use a Bachmann spare bogie which was included with my City of Truro.  However this only provides the frames, so it needed something to hold the axles in place.  Looking through the scrap box I found a single Y25 bogie etched inner frame with the right spacing.  Naturally this was wider than the bogie, my solution was to remove the two side frames and solder them to a Comet OO bogie spacer.  A couple of modifications to the ends (removing the NEM socket, and removing plastic from the rear to clear the linkage) and it was ready to fit.  The inner unit semi clicks into position on the plastic bogie frame, and is held into position by a bolt running the whole way through to the linkage.  (Note at this point I still have the old wheels which came with the model fitted, as they are rather crude they will be replaced with some Gibsons at some point in the future.

     
     
    However once the bogie was fitted it was apparent that there was a problem.  I already had suspicions that the model might originally have been a scratch build, now I am even more convinced.  The outer frame for the front half of the loco is too thick (so the bogie is stuck in the straight position).  This is compounded by the left hand frame being almost a mm deeper than the right.  Some work with a file got them back to the same thickness, but I think is still too thick (it certainly still fouls the bogie).  I need to dig out the drawings in Russell and check the thickness as I think it still looks too thick, with as much as a mm of metal needing to be removed.  All very annoying as it will risk damage to the smokebox, hence no work can be done until I have given the rivets a coat of primer to seal them all in!

  8. The Fatadder
    Another evenings work and the body is ready for paint.
     
    the remaining washout plugs and mud doors were fitted, along with the mud doors and handrails.  The chimney was glued back into position (adding a plastic cap to the leading edge)
     

     
    the next area in need of attention is the front bogie.  The existing part has a core from thick brass, with frames attached to it with what looks like brass strip.  There are no rivets present, not are the strengthening plates.  To top it all the frames are not fitted square.

     
    Fortunately I have a fairly easy solution, for some reason the Bachmann City of Turo came with a second bogie frame in the box. So this will now be used on the Bird.  My first thought was to use the core from the original model and fit it to the Bachmann frames.  But the incorrect wheelbase is a problem (I’m assuming here that the bogie is a standard size and not different between the City and Bulldog...)
    the revised plan is to try drilling new axle holes, or to scratch build a new inner frame
     
    Tomorrow will see the loco and tender body’s primed, allowing for rivet details and more primer at the weekend.  
     
     
    I have been looking again at the chassis, amazingly it has insulated wheels on both sides.  However they have been modified to be live on one side.  I’m looking to see if I can reisolate them...
    I don’t want to remove the wheels from the chassis, as I don’t want it unsolder the rods and cranks.... 
  9. The Fatadder

    A Bird for Brent Pt6

    By The Fatadder,

    I spent Sunday demonstrating some modern image modelling on the DEMU stand at Warley building some EMUs, I did manage to purchase the majority of what was required to enable me to finish the Bulldog.
     
    So last night it was time to make a start.
    The first area was the firebox, I didn’t have the right brass tube thickness to scratch build the washout plugs for the other side of the loco (wall thickness was too thick).  Given it was cheaper than buying more tube, I ended up sourcing the Gibson turnings instead.  The plan was to drill and fit them, but after wasting my first hour searching for a box containing the handrails / nameplates I was too late to use the drill!  That is now delayed until tonight…
    The next job was to add the mud door covers, I searched for a suitable component at Warley but the Gibson product is a different design and the ex Finney part is not sold separately (I did ask at Brassmasters as I need some for a Finney 2251, but due to manufacturing issues they are not available outside of new kits).  However I have found a solution, starting with some MJT BR domed roof vents I filed off the raised lip from the top and then reprofiled to a suitable shape.  A curved channel was filed onto the underside and the castings were glued into position on the firebox.

     
    The final area of work needed on the firebox is with the reverser cover, the casting for which must have fallen off when I was stripping the paint and has since disappeared.  After looking at photos I have scratch built a replacement part, which will be glued into position once the washout plugs are finished.
     
    Moving on, the next area of work was to add a missing hand rail to the foot plate above the forward steps.   Holes have been drilled, ready for the new handrail to be added tonight.
     
    The final area of work was around the smokebox, after preparing a Jackson Evans superheater oil cover I spotted that the chimney was located too far back.  This had to be unsoldered and then repositioned about 5mm forward.  With the chimney corrected the casting for the superheater cover could be glued into position.  After which attention could turn to the smokebox front, adding a Gibson smokebox door dart and steam lance.

     
    Tonight’s work:
    Add the missing washout plugs to the RH firebox side and boiler top.
    Solder up and add the side handrails
    Reattach the main boiler handrail
    Wash / Etch Prime
    Once the above is dry, I have a sheet of Archer’s rivet  transfers to add the missing rivet detail to the smokebox, after which it can get another coat of primer and will be ready for paint.
    Of course this means that I need to decide what colour it will be, green or black…
  10. The Fatadder
    A little more progress today.
     
    first up the smoke box step and lamp iron have been soldered into place.  
     
    The next job was one that I’ve been dreading.  For some reason the cab windows were misshapen, with more of an L shape than the rectangular prototype.  The solution was to solder a backing piece into the from scrap etch and then flood the front with solder before filing to shape.   Much happier with the shape of the windows now.
     
    Moving on to the tender, the rear handrails have been soldered into position as have the rear steps.  The lamp irons will be next which will finish the tender work.
     
    tomorrow it’s back to the loco and adding the washout plugs to the other side.
     

  11. The Fatadder
    Another nights work and Nightingale is starting to come together.  
     
     
    The first task was to build a batch of 6 boiler washout plugs.   I ended up making 8 as two were lost to the carpet at the final stage.  (I suppose given my dyspraxia I should be happy that I have the coordination to make these things, but it does result in the loss of a lot of small parts!) 
     
    The next job was to mark out the positions of the plugs (Using the drawing inspiration Russell and a photo as a guide), before drilling an indentation with a screw drill.  Before drilling 1mm diameter holes with the pillar drill.  The brass of the firebox is very thick so it took some effort even with the pillar drill.
     

     
    The holes were then opened up with cutting broaches to 1/16 before test fitting with a length of the brass tube.  Normally I would want to solder these in, however the inside of the firebox contains some crude soldering, a lot of cruddy paint and generally isn’t in a great condition for soldering.  To top it off it’s very tricky to get access to clean it up.  Instead I just used superglue...
     
    So that is the first side done, tomorrow I need to repeat the process for the other side. 
     
     
    Other remaining jobs:
    >tender rear details (steps, lamp irons, handrails)
    >rivet details on smokebox, bufferbeam  and bogie (I need to find a uk source of Archers transfers)
    >mud door covers ( I may have a go at scratch building some as I can’t find any in the scrap box).
    >smokebox dart
    >Reattach handrail
    >Test motor and decide on how it will eventually be powered 
    >determine livery, I am tending towards wartime black, but I’d love to confirm dates 3449  was in the works  between 43 and 48 To help confirm it 
     

  12. The Fatadder
    In my last post I mention listed the parts still required to finish the Bird.   I also mentioned the woes with my wife’s car (which needs a new DPF in addition to parts for the Turbo).  Needless to say as we approach Christmas, the modelling budget has been slashed to fund said repairs.  (And some eBaying will be needed to get ready for Warley and some layout essentials which are required there.). All in all it leaves nothing left for the Bird.
     
    However all is not lost, I can scavenge some parts (mud doors, smokebox dart) from a Finney 2251 that given its a P4 build is rather down the “to finish” pile.  The lubricator? cover on the smokebox can be scratch built (the scratch built one on the Manor came out ok).  So that leaves the rivets (no alternative but to buy in) and the washout plugs.
     
    for the latter I was sure I must have bought some when I detailed an Airfix 14xx, however rereading an old blog post it turns out I scratch built them.  So digging through my stores I found a length of 1/16 brass tube, along with some brass pins and started a few test builds 
     
    I have now made 5 (and lost 2 of them while fettling.  I need 16!  So will be making more over the next few evenings.  Unfortunately the noise while cutting prevents me working too late on them.
     
    once done they can be drilled and soldered into place on the body.

  13. The Fatadder
    Today the focus has been the tender, again with minor repairs and adding a scratch built step.   I think eventually I will replace these with the Mainly Trains etch. 

     
    Bearings have been fitted to the sub chassis, which now runs very sweetly.  Finally the nameplates and numbers have been painted black.

     
    I now need to place an order with Gibson for the washout plugs, Mud hole covers, boiler back head and superheater cover.
    Also order some archers rivet transfers (plus of course fit the above)
     
    Other than the fitting of the above, the other jobs are:
    Fit lamp irons to tender rear 
    Fit tender rear handrails
    Refit handrails to loco
    Rebuild the front bogie, it’s a bit crooked and not great detail and I am thinking the best thing to do is start from scratch. 
     
    If I had the parts it would be finished this week.  Unfortunately a potential blown turbo in my wife’s Mercedes might cause something of a delay...
  14. The Fatadder
    Onto phase 2: Structural repairs.
     
    The first task was to resolder the right hand frame back into position.  Even with a 6mm 50w iron set to high temp it was hard to transfer heat to the thick footplate.
     
    next was the buffer beam, unfortunately I seem to have used the spare which was in my scrap box (which would have given the rivet detail), so had to keep the one from the model.  This showed signs of previous damage, with the bufferbeam glued back in place.  After stripping it down (and removing the tapered buffers) it was soldered back into place.  The rivet details will need to be added with transfers.  As such I haven’t fitted the new (parallel) buffers yet, as it will be a lot easier to add the rivets without the obstruction. 
     
    The can roof edge was resoldered into position and the smokebox door was tidied up (removing the moulded on door handle and drilling for a brass replacement.   I still need to drill holes for the steam lance and upper lamp iron. 
     

     
    Next up were the steps, with the forward steps missing completely along with the lower rear step.   This left a decision, replace them all with something more prototypical (with the U shape) or replace the missing parts in the style of the model.  In the end I went with the latter, fabricating from offcuts of etch and soldering in place.  

    The final job for today was to sort Out the cab sides.  The missing beading around the edges of the cab cut out was formed from more etch off cut (curved to shape) before soldering in place.  This was followed by adding the rear handrails from some scrap wire.

     
    So now the loco body is starting to come together.  
    It still needs:
    -Firebox detailing (adding mud doors and drilling / fitting the boiler washout plugs)
    -Refitting they handrails, I have looked inside the mode and there is no way I am going to manage to un solder the posts from the existing arrangement without risking the boiler seems.  So I will resolder the handrail in place once the firebox is detailed 
    -Add top lamp Iron / steam lands / smokebox dart
    add rivets to smokebox and bufferbeam. 
    ideally I would like a new bogie, but the chances of finding a surplus Finney etch are pretty slim.  Maybe a Bachmann Dukedog part might do?
     
    The tender needs less work:
    - fabricate one rear corners missing steps,
    -reattach a loose front step
    -rebuild the chassis with 2mm top hat bearings to improve running
     
    Then  its ready for paint (though that’s likley a job for the new year).  
     
     
    the key blocker is sourcing the best option for the mud doors and boiler washout plugs...
     
  15. The Fatadder

    A Bird for Brent

    By The Fatadder,

    One of the key missing classes of loco for Brent is the Bulldog / Bird.  With the class providing the assistance on the front of many workings.   Eventually I will need 4 bulldogs for assistance and a 5th for a freight turn.
     
    a chance find one Facebook resulted in a purchase of a non running unidentified  etched kit built example (based on a couple of grainy photos) 
     
    the model arrived today and I have set to work.   Looking at the design it looks pretty old (X04 motor, lack of rivet detail on the smokebox, no detail on the fire box.). I’m thinking Jericho or Jamison maybe?  Edit: having looked some more I am now tending to conclude it is a possible scratch build.

    This was the model as it came (all be it now separated from its chassis)

     
    While it’s not up to the standard of a potential Bachmann model, yet alone the Finney kits that I am planning to build.  It lends itself nicely to some upgrading and will make a good stop gap until high spec model replaces it.  To that end it will stay as it’s current identity Nightingale despite it not being a Devon loco (I have found an undated photo of Nightingale assisting 6016 at Rattery, but from the red lamps it’s clearly pre war.)  If nothing else it saves £10 on a new name!
     
    Onto the model
    On the whole it was well built and well painted, although for some reason the black frames had been hand painted red.   Due to the below work it needed stripping off anyway.  This was achieved with oven cleaner and an old toothbrush.
     
    The curved front of the firebox had not been formed (just a square joint between former and wrapper).  
    The handrails were formed from pins not handrail knobs.  
    There is no beading on the cab cut out (or cab end handrails).  
    The firebox is missing detail, there are no washout plugs or mud doors.  These will need to be added from brass tube / rod for the former and to be purchased parts for the latter.  Incidentally now Dave Geen isn’t trading, who makes the best mud door covers?
    the smokebox will need rivers adding, so it looks like I finally have to buy some archers transfers.
    There are also some minor repairs to make, one frame has come loose, as has the end of the cab roof.  A tender step is missing, while the other steps are pretty basic.  I’m going to check the scrap box (I am sure I have a Comet steps etch) otherwise more parts are needed. 
    the motor slightly protrudes into the cab, which has no back head.
     
    the chassis quartering was out on one wheel  (now fixed). while the tender chassis has no bearings as is pretty tight on one wheel.
     
    The plan is to fix the majority of the above over the next few weeks before repainting in post war GWR green.  I am in two minds about the chassis, ideally it could do with the X04 being replaced with a decent motor / gearbox.  But there is a logic which says remove it all together and have the loco unpowered.  The King or Castle will have more than enough power to push it while pulling 8 coaches...
     
    The two jobs I am undecided on is replacing the crude con rods (due to no idea what I would use) and replacing the handrails with handrail knobs.  

    The current state:

  16. The Fatadder

    37667

    By The Fatadder,

    Finally got on and 'finished' 37667 today, fitting the Shawplan etched headcode boxes to the end. These were added after suffering issues with seepage under masking tape when I originally tried masking off the black head code boxes.
     
    Still not happy with the look of the sandite port, suspect that I am going to end up having to replace this with a custom etch at some point to add the missing bolt head detail (I know the etch came with half etched marks to press through the bolts, but having cut out the centre to get the correct depth it resulted in an etch that was too fragile to press out the bolts. The photo I was working from showed it at a slight angle, though I think I might have it set at slightly too much of an angle. Again not a lot that can be done there.
     
    Still needs to get a new roof grill and correct nose grills (both will get done at the same time once parts are available), and there is a need for some chassis detail (air tanks & separate fuel tanks) but thats going to have to wait until I decide what I am going to do with the loco.
     
    With this loco nearing completion, its got me thinking about my Class 37 fleet, and the feeling that I have too many of them. The class 37 is a very odd loco, I think the real thing is actually rather unattractive, as are a fair proportion of the liveries carried, so given I make a lot of my decisions on what to model based on looks I cant quite understand why I have so many. The noise the prototype makes would have something to do with it (and I guess that recollection of them from uni).
     
    As mentioned before, I have 4 main operating periods, (all be it with 2 of them on hold for the time being).
     
    1998/99
    37672 - Transrail, this is a Bachmann model which has been resprayed to correct the colour of the grey's used.
    37670 - EWS - modelled with no sandite gear limiting it to 98
    37521 - EWS - again modelled with no sandite gear.
     
    2002/3
    37667 - EWS - As detailed above with detail variations
    37612 - DRS - currently awaiting repainting to fix where the paint peeled off with masking. Again details such as the reinforced windscreen limit this to post 2000.
     
    I suppose it is possible to just run 670 and 521 in the 2002 period with the sandite side facing towards the operator, though saying that I think 2 locos per period is probably enough, so maybe adding sandite to either 670 or 521 once I have sorted the new etch would balance things out nicely.....
     
    There is also another pair in 411 and 417, both of which are out side of my time period and really aught to be sold on. However they are the only locos in my fleet that I really have any connection to the prototype (bringing back memories of them thrashing out of Queen Street past Cardiff University's Engineering department), and as such I'm rather attached to them....
    37417 - I dont think this was named until 2004, however this and 411 are really good memories of my time in Cardiff (with the Engineering department next to Queen Street station, and Class 37 loco hauled workings going past. One thing I really missed when I was studying at Loughborough was the lack of a railway line & Class 37s passing by the window!)
    37411 - Completely out of period and cant even be slipped in on the edge of period like 417. Following my new 'rules' for clearing out surplus stock, I really aught to be getting rid of this (and 417) but for the time being sentimental value is over rulling common sense. I suspect that one day when I have a proper railway room, these will be joining the prototype deltic and my sole remaining Hymek in a display case..... (or I suppose I could just build that Cardiff layout.............)
     
    For 1984-5 there are 3 locos
    207 - Cornish Railways
    235 - BR Blue
    196 - Large logo grey
     
    and for 1987-88
    412 - Large Logo blue
    673 - RFD
    675 - Redstripe
     
    Again I think for both of these its probably one loco too many, however for 80s China Clay running the 37 is such a critical loco its probably handy to have a third on hand in case one of the other two dies. In all this seems to have been a rather silly exercise writing this all up, given that I dont really want to part with the only 2 locos which are out of period/area. Still, the next job is going to be going through my Class 50 fleet and deciding which of those are surplus, going to be some very hard decisions there! Made even more difficult by the forthcoming release of more detailing bits for them from Shawplan, which sadly makes it look like the pride of my fleet, the weathered Implacable & Victorious will be the first to make the trip over to the Classifieds

  17. The Fatadder
    After a summer without any real modelling achieved, Sunday saw a return to Scaleforum on the DEMU stand for the day. 
    The run up to the show was a little chaotic, with a lack of time resulting in my grabbing the first available project boxes that I could find.
     
    This resulted in two projects to work on:
    First was 20302, The main things holding up the completion of this loco are the glazing, bogies, window frames and adding a cantrail stripe.
    There was nothing that could be done on the latter two points (not having the etches or transfers with me).  So I started off with the glazing.  I wasn’t going to spend more on Laserglaze (and had lost the original front windows), so the solution was to make my own.  These were carefully cut and filed from redundant coach windows (from an Airfix Centenary that now has brass sides).  There are a few gaps in the corners, all of which will be hidden once the etches have been glued into place.
     
    The next job was the bogies, these need to be replaced with the correct design eventually, however I decided to go with an alternative as a temporary measure.  Carefully drilling the holes in the lower part of the frame, its not perfect but does give the right look.  The only issue was that when trying to remove the bogie frames, the whole bogie came out.  Unfortunately when refitting it, the top flange of the bogie mount snapped off!

    Moving on, the main work for the day was spent working on a Class 67 which will become 67003 in EWS.   This is really James Makin’s fault, after seeing photos of his 67s made me do some research as to what 67 I could fit at a stretch, before finding photos of an ex works 67003 in Plymouth in June 1999.  June 99 is a bit of a stretch for my period, (the photo in question also contains a Fag Packet livery HST), however its close enough for me to accept.
     
    This is a continuation of a project which according to the etches I started in 2009!  I had previously spent a lot of time designing a full set of detailing etches for the ex Lima model.

    The Etches
     
    This included adding two part replacement grills for the main body side grills, replacement frames for the second set of side grills (that are not so see through on the prototype).  A new roof grill and radiator assembly, new windscreen, multiple working socket, WIPACs, cab side window frames and various other small details.

    Most of the chassis work had already been prepared (removing the plastic between components and adding separate air tanks).  A few more detail etches were added to finish it off, just needing new buffers adding after painting the yellow triangle to the end.

    There is a slight issue in that a lot of the parts I fitted yesterday would have been much better off fitted after painting (as was the case when I did the original test build on a Limby model in Royal Train livery.  For the most part this can be resolved by masking and painting, however I think the cab side windows will need to come off and be refitted after I eventually spray the body into EWS red and gold.
     

    Finally with a little time to spare a the end of the show was 33116, this has been sat on my workbench for a long time after fitting an Extreme Etchings roof grill.  I took the advantage of having it at the show to give the grill a quick coat of BR blue paint, so it is now ready for a good coating of roof dirt to blend it all together.
     
  18. The Fatadder
    A lot more progress on the A4
     
    first up the body, lots more fettling has been completed (although there is still a fair bit to go marked in red).  
     
    The lower fairings have been soldered in place, these were prepared by cutting and filing the original fairings to shape.
     
    Some A1 models sprung buffers have been fitted to the front
     
    Remaining body tasks include the pipe on the drivers side, a little more filler, and the cab roof detail.
     
    I'm still not 100% happy with the body, and may well end up sourcing a replacement body kit.
     
    Moving on to the chassis, the main frames have been soldered up (using the chassis square jig as a guide).  The round spacers were screwed into place before soldering (and filing off the bolt heads).
     
    The white metal parts have all been soldered into place, while the front bogie was prepared using Comet overlays (left over from a bogie for a Merchant Navy) soldered to an etched sub frame
     
    Wheels have been painted LNER crimson, but still need a final coat plus some Matt varnish.   Currently they have been temporarily fitted into position.
     
    Testing the chassis showed an odd issue, the bars on the jig were set with the con rods so everything should be an exact match. 
    But when I test fitted them to the completed chassis there is tight spot. Meaning it will not run, not sure where to go with this.

  19. The Fatadder
    I have long had a love of the LNER's pacific, especially the Class A4, starting I believe as a small child seeing Mallard at the National Railway Museum in York.   One of the first "proper" locomotive models I purchased was a Hornby A4.  Over time modelling interest shifted and the focus turned to modelling "modern image" before eventually moving to the Great Western.   But the love of the A4 never really went.  At one point I had the latest Hornby Mallard before selling it due to it being out of my area, while a plan was once in place to model Sir Nigel Gresley in preserved condition.
     
    Rather inspired by all of the photos in Tony Wright's thread, coupled with finding some photos of Mallard running a Paddington – Penzance service prior to the locomotive exchanges has led to a model which is going to be (just) out of period for Brent.  A basket case Wills Finecast kit on ebay (with an untouched SE Finecast etched chassis and wheelsets) pushed me over the edge.  Yes I would get a better model if I bought one of the Hornby models, though I think the only garter blue example with no valances is in the 2019 range as a very pricy LTD).  But as this is non core, it needs to earn its spot in the fleet through several hours of modelling enjoyment. 
     
    Upon inspecting the kit was a mix of soldered and glued construction, with a few bits in the wrong place and a very badly modified tender.  There are a couple of parts missing (the cast brass cross head / slide bars and the cut away valances that I will need), while one side of the tender has been chopped down (does a job for me for a third of the length, but the valance needs adding back for the rest).  Oh, and it was smothered in a thick coat of paint. 
    The first job was to strip the model down, unfortunately when trying to remove the backhead (that was glued in the wrong position) one cab side broke off.

    The ebay listing

    The damage to the cab side
     
    All the metal parts were stripped of paint, tidied up and reassembled.  The fit of some parts was not great, so a fair amount of filler was needed to finish things off.  Some areas had damaged detail (particularly the cab roof) so what remained was filed smooth and will be replaced with plasticard glued in position.   The pipe along the left hand side of the boiler was damaged during the paint stripping, and has been added to the SEF shopping list (it will be primed and glued into place, as will replacement buffers).    The joint between the damaged side was cleaned up before soldering back together (leaving a thick layer of solder over the joint which was then filed back.)  A further modification from the kits design was to solder the side frames of the rear Cartazzi truck onto the underside of the cab floor, rather than the unprototypical swinging arrangement as designed.  This will give more than enough movement for my layouts curves.   
    After giving the model a coat of etch primer to show up imperfections, I am now in the process of smoothing out the remaining imperfections in the body work, especially around the area of the crack in the boiler side and the cab roof.  The next job will be making a start on the new chassis, (after recovering the bar frame spacers from the original chassis).   I am both looking forward to making the complicated valve gear and dreading making it in equal measure. 



     
    As well as highlighting areas that need more sanding or filler, it also highlights the limitations of the source castings in how many rivets are missing.  Need to order some Archers transfers for the roof, end and bodyside panels 
  20. The Fatadder
    Way back in 2012 I started work building a Mallard Models kit for a Siphon J.  
     
    This was the condition of the model when I started:

    It had also been fitted with a damaged vac formed plastic roof that I was not happy with which had been removed by this point.  
    The remaining work:
    Fit hinges to the doors Scratch build underframe trussing Add battery boxes Build bogies (the ones that came with the kit are under a Mainline siphon now, so will need to build a set of 247 developments bogies instead. Add U channel to solbar  Add a new roof  
    I started with the roof, 
    As mentioned previously I wasn't happy with the vac formed plastic roof that came with the kit, especially given it wasn't square!   The plan was to fit the roof from a Lima siphon G, after measuring the model it looked a good fit so I chopped out the sides / ends and tidied up with a file.  The end needed some fettling in order to get a good fit between the two, before gluing into place with Epoxy.  The old sides were put away in the scrap box as both the doors and the grills look like they may be useful one day...
     

    photos were taken before adding a skim of filler to blend in the joint between brass and plastic.
     
    Next up was the chassis, gluing a length of Evergreen channel onto the etch (the kit's parts for this area were not properly etched and were unusable).
     
    Tonight I aim to get the chassis finished, 2 sets of bogies built (one for this and another pair for the other Siphon G I purchased at the same time)
    If I can find them I will also get the door hinges added...
     
     

     

  21. The Fatadder
    A lot of good progress on clearing the paint backlog today.
     
    First up the ex LNWR composite getting a coat of LMR maroon.  I’m not overly keen on the final shade here, is it not a bit too much towards the pink end of the spectrum?
     
    i think once I have added lining and logos etc I will give it a wash of a brown mix to tone it down.
     
    If an LMS modeller going to the members day would like to swap a set of 1947 LMS coach logos / numbers for a GWR equivalent i would most appreciate it.  Buying a whole sheet for one coach seems a little wasteful.
     

     
    Next up a pair of Slaters Toplights (a third and a compo).  There are some issues on the Brown here which will be touched up by brush (hopefully).  Very important coaches to get complete given how different they look to the RTR stock.
     

     
    Talking of completing formations, next is the final Centenary.  This coach has been nothing but trouble.   I should have masked the brown off when respraying the cream yesterday, but I didn’t...   naturally that resulted in another bit of cream paint lifting off when I removed the tape.  (The reason it was being repainted in the first place).  To top it all the cream had awful coverage and needs touching up as well!  This coach is close to a dunk in paint stripper!
     
    Finally the sleeper, best of the bunch for today’s GWR painting with a finish on par with the 1998 TPOs painted earlier.  Small touch ups along with the usual hand painted roof / ends and it will be finished awaiting bogies on Sunday.

    speaking of Sunday, I should really be getting Wheal Imogen ready for the show not working on Brent...
  22. The Fatadder
    Last night’s modelling was an attempt to try and finish off the Manor body, adding transfers to the buffer beam and tende, along with the etched names & number plates (Modelmaster).
     
    I am very pleased with the end result, the colour makes a huge difference (so I think I will have to make a start on respraying my Hornby locos to match). 
     
    Of course there is one major omission, I have forgotten to add the handrails!  I will clearly have to glue them in place, but will try and get them knocked up and fitted tonight…..

  23. The Fatadder
    The TPO rake has finally entered the paint shop.  The plan is to use transfers for the stripes, though I guess priming and spraying yellow is an option if that doesn’t work.

    So far I have sprayed the bodies into Royal Mail red, just need to source some transfers now to test it out.

    The Bachmann conversion has proved more difficult, the red has really poor coverage and you can still see the outline of the filler.  I was trying to go without primer (the filler was previously hand painted red), I think the solution is to prime and respray the area.

    Similarly I had a few issues on the rest where there were pen marks on the coach side.  The primer didn’t fully obscure them and due to time pressures I didn’t have time to sand down and re prime.  Usually the top coat is more than dense enough to obscure these sort of issues but no luck this time.  So there are a couple of areas which will need rework to obscure the letters.  Next time I am painting these will be top of the pile.  (As will my Intercity liveried Mk2/3 for the Sleeper).

    Roofs, ends and underframes will all be hand painted with my Vallejo weathers grey black mixtures.





  24. The Fatadder

    A painted Manor

    By The Fatadder,

    The Mitchell Manor has now entered the paint shop (along with another batch of coaches that will appear later on once I’ve sprayed the brown.)
     
    the loco was sprayed into Phoenix GWR green, while the black areas were painted in a mix of black, black grey and leather. 
     

     
    The Hornby tender was also resprayed to sort out the colour (I will do a comparison against a Grange later).
     
    Now just need to finish soldering up the rods and add a motor / gearbox to get the chassis finished.
     
     
    Once 7804 is complete the next loco to go on the workbench will be Saint Dunstan which needs a chassis built.
    Once that is finished it will be possible to have a full line up of the GWR 460s.  Although there is one step of the 2 cylinder 460 development which is missing, in that I could really do with a square frame Saint.  Something which I have a strong suspicion will be coming from someone next year now that the new build Saint is finished 
  25. The Fatadder
    I have made a little progress on the Manor chassis.  
     
    Having decided upon an approach, I have set to work modifying the chassis.   1mm needed machining off the top of the front / rear of the extended frame.   
     
    The wheels were then refitted and test fitted into the body.  Matching up with 1470 and a van, the ride height looks spot on now.  
     
    Now the clyinders can be assembled, after which I work out what I am going to do about the hole above the front frames.

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