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The Fatadder

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  1. The Fatadder
    The chassis for 7804 is starting to come together,
     
    The first task was soldering up the Comet bogie, this has been mounted to the body with a home made spring (which needs adjusting to provide less downforce)
     
    Without con rods fitted (or a gearbox) the chassis is freely running up and down my test track.
     
    Next up was the cylinder assembly, first up it was compared to the drawing in Russell which shows that as expected the Comet cylinders are missing about 1mm in height (from the top).  The holes for the castings were opened up before soldering the slide bars into place.   As ever the crosshead took a fair bit of tidying up (one day I will actually get round to using the machined Markits ones!)  It now needs the brackets soldering on before cutting off the ends to allow fitting of the cross head.
     
    Next up will be the con rods & finding a gearbox.
     
    I have also now got access to my detail photos of 7808, which will enable the cab detailing.
     

  2. The Fatadder
    Tonight I have once again been looking at the Manor chassis.  Checking against other stock I found that one reason for the fouling wheels is that I had removed too much material from the chassis and it was now running too low.
     
    the soloution was back to my original plan, fitting the Mitchell frame overlays to the Comet frames.  So far these have only been tacked into place to allow testing, using the break mounting holes for alignment.
     

     
    however now I had the opposite problem in that the chassis was slightly high and had these unsightly gaps (presumably in part due to the chassis being designed for a Bachmann model with a thick plastic footplate.
     

     
    At this point I compared with the P4 chassis under my Mitchell 43xx, which imideatly highlighted a problem.  The comet axle holes are about 1mm lower than the Mitchell ones (again presumably to allow OO flanges to clear the thick plastic splashers.  Which leaves 2 options, cut out the hornblocks and resolder in the correct place.  Or remove 1mm from the length of the frames.
     
    the front will also need work, adding a mm or so of meterial to the front frames and raising the clyinders 
     

    This photo shows a Markits wheel in both chassis, the frames are the same height.  The red line shows the top of wheel vs the top of chassis, while the blue line shows the material to be removed / added 
     
    at this point I wish I had spoken to Dave Gene at Wells last year and bought a replacement Mitchell chassis.   
     
  3. The Fatadder
    Time for the final coach to be converted, I started the NUA a while back but stopped work after completing the first side due to lost parts. Given replacement parts arrived in the post with the NSA sides, it was time to finish it off.
     
    As previously mentioned, this conversion differs from my standard approach in that I have used a Mainline mk1 restaurant as a basis rather than a Bachmann mk1. Purely because I had the model sat in my scrap box as a left over from my 2006 Blue Pullman that I am in the process of selling off.
     
    The first job was to prepare the sides, fitting the window grills and cleaning up the components. I was still missing one door, so this was fabricated from some silhouette cut parts (a back plate with an outline cut of the door for alignment, the front of the door and a window frame. This gave a matching 20thou step between the back plate and the door front which matched the DC Kits parts.
     
    The side was cut away from roof / ends and 1mm or so removed from the ends, checking the fit to ensure that there was a good match. The first step was fitting a door to each side piece, before gluing the guards compartment side into position. As each section dried the next was fitted into position, adding small fillets of plasticard between the top of the side and the roof to reinforce.
     
    There is still a fair bit of work to do to finish the model, requiring a new way of fitting the floor (as the original retaining clips got in the way of the new doors), roof detail, post boxes adding / handrails and the step below the doors. The underframe also needs a lot of work, I am thinking the easiest approach here is going to be cut away all the trussing + any redundant boxes and replace with the kit’s parts
     

  4. The Fatadder
    In order to get on with the finishing touches on the layout I either need PVA (awaiting delivery) or to do woodwork (not exactly possible at 10 at night with two small children in the house.)
    So I am having a play at another long term project that I would like to finish this year, my intention being that by Easter when I can realistically start spraying again I will have this and the TPO ready for painting.
     
    The aim is to model the Paddington to Penzance sleeper circa 1998, as with the TPO part of the logic with this is another then and now comparison with a very long term project to build the same formation in 1947 guise for Brent.
     
    Research on the forum and elsewhere has narrowed down the formation: Monday to Thursday it consisted of a Class 47/8, Mk2D BSO, MK2D TSO (a declasified first), Mk2E FOt, then 3 mk3 sleepers (with a forth added on Fridays) and finally a mk1 BG. Working from a video of a real working from 1998, the plan is to have the mk2s in faded Intercity livery, the first and last mk3 in Intercity and the middle mk3 in Great Western Trains (which has already been finished). http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/47191-great-western-merlin-sleeper/
     
    After giving some thought to modifying Hornby mk2E coaches into the required 2Ds, I have settled to making use of the coaches I already have for the moment at least. (A large box of deconstructed Airfix, Dapol and Hornby 2ds that was purchased for this rake (and a daytime GWT service) a long time ago.
    Eventually I will likely end up replacing them, but for the purposes of the then and now concept (and having a play at 1998 on Brent) the old coaches will do the job.
     
    They will be upgraded to a degree, focusing on the basic shape (the windows / frames I will live with for now). The first task was to remove the roof ribs to get a much fainter line, rubbing down the whole lot with a emery pad. Then the flat sides were attacked with a file to obtain the required tumblehome. The 2E still needs work to convert it into the later design. They now join the remaining two mk3 sleepers in the queue awaiting painting in intercity livery. I am certainly not looking forward to all that masking!
     

    A side on view not exactly the best choice to show off a change to the side profile...
     
    Edit:
    Here is the missing photo of the completed GWT Sleeper
    Untitled by The Fatadder, on Flickr
  5. The Fatadder

    GWT HSTs

    By The Fatadder,

    he arrival of parts to make another GWT Merlin liveried HST left an easy decision as to what to work on last night.
     
    Most of the work requires paint work finishing off a couple of resprayed Lima mk3s once the weather warms up, along with adding Kaydees.
     
    Last nights work focused on the powercars. I have a pair of Lima Powercars in GWT that are intended for this project, along with a new Hornby chassis.
     
    I started with a few paint modifications to the Lima model, touching up the black and white paint to fix overspray, and painting the inside of the light clusters black.
     
    Then it was time to modify the insides to fit the new chassis, first removing the original mounting screw points and glazing insert. Cut the guards door windows from the rest of the windows and refit to the model. Finally carve plastic from the inside of the front fairing to clear the new chassis.
     
    It still needs a little more work, I want to respray the white band at the top of the sides (as there is very poor paint coverage over the green). The yellow is a bit of an odd shade (although it was at least painted) so this will also need a respray.
     
    Compairing with photos there is a raised lip on the real thing that is missing from the Lima model, so this will need to be fitted. Unfortunately my phone battery ran out before starting this so had to stop until changed to access s prototype photo.
     
     
    While working on HSTs I have also tried to sort out my Virgin powercars, this has been renumbered with Fox transfers names for HMS Penzance. Unfortunately I didn’t varnish and one side got damaged, as I don’t really want to buy replacement transfers. My thought was to mix up paints to match the colours and touch it up by hand. I’m happy with most of it but one colour needs another attempt. I will mask off the glazing and give it a quick dusting of satin varnish to seal it all in this time.
     
     
    What it should look like
     
     
    After the repair
  6. The Fatadder

    Manor Chassis

    By The Fatadder,

    As I needed to stay in the house to look after the children this evening, there was no chance to work on the layout.  Instead I got on with the Manor chassis.
    First it was modified to get it to fit the Mitchell body, before soldering up the frames using my Chassis^2 jig.
     
    The Markits wheels were then test fitted, which brings me on to the first problem.  At £36 set you would think that the wheels would actually fit on the axles, I am having more issues getting these on square than I do with Gibsons despite being twice the price.  The only good thing is that they are a lot easier to remove and refit.
     
    With the wheels fitted and given a test run (which has identified a slight tight spot that needs further attention) I test fitted again onto the body this time with the wheels fitted.  Unfortunately this time there were issues, big issues!  the wheels were fouling on the body, the motion bracket, firebox front and firebox rear were the most obvious and were attacked with a cutting disk in the dremmel.  This got wheel 1 and 2 running freely, but the rear axle was still proving difficult so more of the cab underfloor was removed.  this helped, but it still isn't fully free (at this point I gave up for the night.)
     
    The problem is partially that I built the solbar years ago for a P4 loco and wouldn't have paid attention to any notes saying remove xyz for OO.  I will dig out the instructions tomorrow and have a check and see what I missed.  Then chop out some more material until it works!



  7. The Fatadder
    Inspired by @toboldlygo's  effort on “A Nod to Brent”, I have dug out my model of 4855 to get it finished off. 
     
    Previously I had cleaned up and painted the 3d printed oil tank for the tender but not done a great deal else, so the loco still needed more detail on the oil tank (pipework), renumbering, along with cab side modifications.
     
    Renumbering was a simple job, the loco hadn’t been varnished after I previously renumbered it so the etched plates were prised off with a scalpel and the end numbers came away with water (to be replaced with some HMRS transfers).  I still haven’t got round to ordering the number plates yet, but they will eventually be included in a Narrow Planet order along with plates for 4700, 7427 and a plate for Brent Signal Box.
     
    The next job was to add the cab side shutters, looking at photos they look very similar in size to those fitted to GW tank engines (which given the GW’s love of standard parts makes a lot of sense.)  This was very helpful in that I already had a pair of etches from a scrapped Churchward Models 45xx.  Again looking at photos it appears the cab side handrail was lowered by about a foot to clear the shutter (see the below extract from one of Norman Lockett’s photos in Great Western steam 1934-49).  With the positioning worked out, the etched was glued to the body over the top of the window and the handrail refitted into lower holes.   Following the advice of @The Stationmasterelsewhere on the forum that the shutters were only closed when lighting up, they are modelled in the open position.
     

    Not visible in the photos is the U shape pipe at the rear of the oil tank.  Given the high price of 3d printing coupled with the amount of work needed to clean up the end product, I decided it would be easier to just make it myself from brass tube.  The only problem is that I am not sure of the length, working from photos I have made two versions and will decide which looks best before gluing in place.
     
    I now need to add the sludge pipe, along with other valves and pipes on the cab end of the tank (a possible job for this evening).   I am also planning to give the whole thing a coat of GWR green to get rid of Hornby’s terrible effort.  I don’t want to spend ages trying to paint match to that green, so it will be easier just to fix the whole loco.  (The safety valve bonnet should be green as well for 4855 so that can be fixed at the same time .
     


     
    Edit: not sure why the cropped images are showing so large, will try and have a look to shrink them later.  all be it a tricky task working with an iPhone.
  8. The Fatadder
    After the very rare occurrence of getting home at a sensible time during month end reporting, I have managed a little bit of Monday night modelling.
     
    First up the J12 sleeper, this has now been fitted with vacuum breaks (including the brackets) which had been removed from a Bachmann mk1 BG that had been converted to air brakes.  Battery boxes were added from an ABS casting, but it still needs the dynamo (a casting that needs fitted to a few of my coaches) and a second small electrical box (I think I have a suitable Frogmore etch for this).  The two boxes will still need to have a rear plate adding (why do they never include this when its visible from the other side of the coach?)

    Next up was some painting, last year I built a Parkside kits for a GWR Beetle prize cattle wagon (which had been fitted with replacement doors that do not have the panelling).  Its been sat on the layout since then awaiting paint….  The sides were given a coat of Vallejo German Cam Brown, the ends and chassis painted black and the roof a mix of my usual grey black weathering shade mixed with the leftover brown.
    It now needs a quick dusting of varnish before adding transfers.

    The reason it needs the varnish became apperent when working on 7427, while adding the transfers (HMRS) for the buffer beam numbers, I found the microsol I use to soften the transfer and remove the backing film was washing off the water based paint.  (So I am worried about the same happening with the brown on the cattle van).  With the end numbers done I moved on to some weathering, starting with the black areas, before dirtying up the top of the tanks / boiler.  The sides I plan to have relativly clean, but still need further washes applying.  (This has been painted with a mix of grey black, cam brown, black and leather.)
     

  9. The Fatadder
    Most annoyingly the forum just deleted everything I had written and reverted back to the 3 letters I added to allow me to save on mobile when I uploaded the photos (before typing out on the laptop)...
     
    Having just sourced a replacement chassis to fit under my 64xx body that has been sitting in a parts box for the past few years, I have decided to convert it into 7427 (a Newton Abbot loco frequently used on the trip freight workings out of Newton Abbot.
     
    The work:
     
    The first step was to dismantle the cab and remove the autoworking gear from the buffer beam, while the cab was removed a crew was glued into position.  Working on the cab roof lip was a lot easier on the rear without the rivet detail in the way.   The screw reverser was chopped off the backhead moulding and replaced with a leaver reverser casting from the spares box.
     
    This was followed by cutting off the corner between the bunker and cab rear, and replacing the missing beading with thin plasticard strip.  
     
    Next up the rear of the cab, I always thought it rather strange that Bachmann had separately moulded brackets above it, separately fitted lamp irons on the footplate, yet moulded on detail on the rear.  This is made all the worse given the loco will spend a lot of time running bunker first.  Anyway, the moulded detail was carefully carved off and etched parts from the Finney range glued into position.
     
    With all the work done, the green areas were touched in with Phoenix paints postwar GWR green.  For the buffer beams I mixed up a close match from a couple of shades of Vallejo red.  (The black paint still needs to be touched in now that the other colours are dry.
     
    It still needs to be fitted with the hand rails above the footplate steps, along with requiring etched number plates (and transfers).  I must get some numbers ordered for this (and for 4707) ordered from Narrow Planet. 
     
     
     



  10. The Fatadder
    The J12 sleeper is rapidly approaching the end of the build stage, the body has now been fitted with the missing droplights and given a coat of white primer.  Last year when I sprayed the Centenaries I had poor coverage issues spraying Phoenix GWR cream over the grey etch primer, while the process was a lot quicker spraying onto white.  The body will eventually need the roof handrail adding, along with the end pipes and flexible corridor connectors.
     
    Moving onto the chassis, the first job was gluing the interior into position.  Once primed this will need to have the compartment doors painted on, I have a potential time saver planned here, I have a roll of masking tape which is the width of the doors.  My plan is to paint the tape the colour of the door (presumably some sort of brown), then cut to length and stick into position, it should save lots of masking on the model.
     
    Now it was time for the underframe, I soldered up the two main trusses from some L angle cut and bent to shape.  The vertical supports were soldered to this, before filing to length (checking to the drawing).  Finally they were all epoxied into place on the chassis, using blocks of 60 thou plasticard to hold in position

    This was followed by adding the gas tanks, and marking out the positions for the vac break gear, dynamo and battery boxes.  I have some ABS castings for the latter, while I should have some Bachmann parts for the former left over from converting mk1s to air breaked TPOs.   Once this is sorted tonight, the main chassis can be primed and I will just be waiting on the bogies.
     
     
     
    Finally here is a quick comparison of the difference 50 years development has on the sleeper. 

    In 1947:
    Castle Class Loco, BTK, CK, 1st SLEEP, TK, CK,  1st SLEEP, 1st SLEEP, 1st SLEEP, CK, TK, BTK 
    In 1997
    Class 47/8, BSO, TSO, TFOT, SLEEP, SLEEP, SLEEP, BG
     
    So the luggage space is about the same, there is a similar number of beds available given the mk3 sleeper has a higher capacity than the Collett, however the 1940s version had a much higher passenger capacity (even allowing for the mk2D having a greater capacity than the 1930s coaches)
    My aim is to have the complete models of both formations running on the layout by the end of the summer for comparison.
     
     
  11. The Fatadder

    GWR J12 Sleeper pt1

    By The Fatadder,

    as I have mentioned before, eventually I want to be able to run every train which ran through Brent in a 24 hour period.   The most interesting of which ran in the early hours of the morning.    
    There is the TPO which I will eventually get round to building, and the sleeper services on to Penzance.
     
    In 1947 there were 3 down services with a sleeper portion in the winter timetable, (I think there were more in the summer including an LMS sleeper.). In the winter 46 / spring 47 timetable these each contained one J12, (which were all combined into one working back to London.)  The first of these that I am modelling is a newspaper train with a sleeper include.  
    Formations:  (the section I am modelling is in green, I have tried to model one section of the train in order to cut the length down.  these were long services!

     
     
    the kit is a Phoenix model, with pressed aluminium sides and roof along with details.  6 wheel bogies still need to be sourced.  The first job on a set of Phoenix sides is to scribe on the doors and drill holes for handrails etc.

     
    i decided to to go with evostick construction, and started off the build phase by fitting the sides to the ends.  Along with drilling and fitting the vast quantity of roof vents.
     

     
    Once dry, the roof was glued into place  

     
    the inner window frames were glued in position for the left hand pair of windows.
     
    next the chassis and detailing 
  12. The Fatadder
    After a little more tiding up of filler and another coat of primer on 7804, last night I got back to work on the J12 sleeper.
     
    The first thing to do was fix the chassis, unfortunately it had fallen on the floor and been ran over by my chair…..
     

    Fortunately  being aluminium it was very easy to bend back into shape, and you cant clearly see the damage!
     
    With this fixed I have got on with a few other small jobs.  First up the two gas tanks were assembled, rather than following the instructions using gum paper, I thinned the walls of some Evergreen tube to accept the end casting.   (These are now put to one side awaiting the trussing assembly fitting.)
     
    This was followed by scratch building a rough approximation of the interior, the focus is on the corridor side as being a sleeper (and only running at night) I expect the curtains to be shut on the compartment side.


    Finally it was back to the body, first for a little bit of rework around the ends, then for final roof detailing.  The latter consisted of adding the raised bands from masking tape, and rolling the aluminium plates for the access hatches before gluing in place.  The model is currently resting on a pair of B4 bogies intended for one of my modern TPOs while I wait for the Comet 6 wheel bogies intended for this project. 
     

    The model now needs a coat of white primer over the sides and the body will be ready for painting.
  13. The Fatadder
    A minor update of today’s work, after a good clean the Manor body and tender have been given a coat of etch primer.  It shows up a few areas that need touching up and some filler, but not a lot.  Again unless anyone can confirm otherwise, it will be getting a coat of GWR black during the week.
     

     
    i have also proggressed with the diagram J12 sleeper, first redrilling and adding the roof vents (and filling the old holes).  Filling the joint between the cast ends and the sides, and adding plastic hinges to the doors.  The core of the chassis has been glued together, and now awaits bogies and trussing adding.
  14. The Fatadder

    Mitchell Manor Pt9

    By The Fatadder,

    Another evening of minor detailing, and the Manor body is finished.
     
    This included adding a Gibson saftey valve bonnet cover from the scrap box.  I would have usually used a better quality two piece set (as should have been in the kit) however as it will be painted I don’t need the separate brass part. 
     
    The topfeed pipes were formed from some scrap wire from a Disney light up wand that one of the children stepped on and broke.  The other wire is copper coloured and will be used to detail the backhead.
     
    The body is now ready for a good clean followed by a couple of coats of Halfords etch primer.
     
    I have been thinking about the tender, I have a Mitchell tender with my 43xx.  I still can’t decide what I am doing with this loco, the cost of buying wheels, motor etc plus needing to build a new chassis makes me think I will keep it P4.  So my thoughts are tending towards building a new OO tender chassis and sharing the tender between the two locos.

     
    Moving on to the finishing, I am struggling to find photos of 7808 in 1947. I have checked against the GWRJ no7 list, and it shows that 7808 was repainted into
    GWR black in April 43.  Now I have no way of checking if it had been in the works again and been repainted back to green by 47, so unless someone tells me otherwise it will be going black.

    The Manor alongside a Hornby Grange 
     
    The next job job is to order the parts to build the chassis
    This will need a Comet chassis (which will get the detail overlays from the Mitchel kit), a set of Markits wheels and a High Level gearbox.  Plus a comet tender chassis.  I have a suitable Mashima already along with a handful of Mitsumi motors from eBay to try out.
     
     
  15. The Fatadder

    Mitchell Manor pt8

    By The Fatadder,

    The body for 7808 is now rapidly approaching completion, last night’s effort was a start on fitting the detail components.
     
    Buffers (from the scrap box) were soldered on to the buffer beam, while the plate was soldered between loco and tender.  White metal castings for the smokebox door, smokebox saddle, mud hole doors, and a few other small bits were glued in place.  The outside steam pipes were a bit of mixed bag, with the brass example shorter than the other.  This needed lengthening with some plasticard in order to get a good fit.

     
    This just leaves a few more jobs remaining, mostly around the cab detailing and fitting the last few details (plus handrails).  I need to order a safety valve bonnet cover and some suitable rod to knock up the top feed pipes. And scratch build the boxes forward of the motion bracket.

  16. The Fatadder

    Mitchell Manor pt 7

    By The Fatadder,

    On to the task I have been dreading, rolling the boiler and smokbox.
     
    i was very pleased with how the rolling came  out, though the soldering was some of the hardest so far.  
     
    I have a lot lot of solder to clean up on the joint between boiler and firebox. 
     
    The chimney was glued into place prior to fitting to assist with boiler alignment.  
     
     



  17. The Fatadder

    Mitchell Manor pt6

    By The Fatadder,

    Last night the build finally reached the stage I am much less comfortable with, the firebox / boiler.  While I am happy forming angular components, or those with a continuous arc, forming Belpair fireboxes or boilers is a lot more worrying.  Its one of those jobs that I wish the kit would come with a set of spare wrappers so I could have a second go…
     
    Anyway, yesterdays work started off adding more small components (snifter valves), and working out which part was the sandbox filler lids (which appear to be the wrong shape).  The valve rod cover castings are missing and need scratch building.  While I forgot to add the sandbox linkages….  (these will need to be added tonight!)
     
    Next up was the ATC pipe which was soldered in place, the bell will be glued into the cab once all the soldering is complete.
     
    It was now time to start on the fire box.  After soldering together the formers  (I beefed up the rear former with some scrap etch), I formed the first two curves in the wrapper for the upper corners.  The etch is well designed with pips on the sides showing the alignment for your 4.5mm drill bit,  however one side must have slipped as the alignment was slightly off.  Cue lots of effort at adjustment trying to get it to the right shape…
    The front and rear plates were soldered onto the wrapper, before soldering the side seems.  The curves at the bottom of the firebox were formed in situ, before soldering in place.  After adding a thick fillet of solder around the inside edge, I then filed the curved profile working from photos.   After a little fettling to clear the splashers it was test fitted into position, I am pleased with the end result.
     
    I now need to glue the washout plugs fitted, and add some mud hole covers (which I need to buy as these are also missing).  From experience I know the latter will be a pain (there is no chance I am taking a soldering iron anywhere near it, so it will have to be glue.)
     
    I think I need to buy a large vice before I can set up my GW Models rollers, so rolling the smokebox (and the boiler cone that I really fear), so tonight after getting those last few small components soldered in to place the project will have to go on hold until the vice arrives.



    What is this component? (also visible in the bottom right of the previous photo), it is the last bit that I have been unable to determine. 
     
    Edit: it’s the ATC shoe, but I am less clear as to where it goes.
     
    i have done a little more work adding sandbox linkages

     
     
  18. The Fatadder

    Mitchell Manor pt5

    By The Fatadder,

    Picking up where I left off the first task on the list was to get the cab roof fitted. I starting off with the beading around the edge, slowly soldering into position as it was formed to shape.
     
    The rear roof support was soldered in place between the cab sides, before fitting the roof etch into position.
     
    the next step was to add the box onto which the screw reversed fits, it would have been easier to fit this before adding the roof.
     
    This was followed by the cab handrails (both on the cab sides and the ends, and fabricating the reverser cover (good practice for forming the curves on the firebox.

     
    with this in place the reverser leaver was next on the hit list, soldering the parts together off model before soldering into place. 
     

     
    The next task involves adding the sandbox covers and snifter valves, (I don’t know what the latter does but it’s a great name!). This means identifying the castings, a tricky task when there are no photos (just a list of names) and I am missing a good number of parts....)

    the above photo shows what I do have (including a PDK chimney) and what appears to be the brass master for the steam pipes)
    This selection (bar the chimney) was the last bits that Malcom had available when he cleared out his 4mm scale bits.  I always ment to do a cross check against the list and contact Dave Geen to buy spares but of course left it too late. 
     
    I am now now trying to work out what is missing to place an order with Brassmasters for the Finney equivalents...
     
    Today’s aim is to finish the footplate details and build a firebox.
  19. The Fatadder
    A little more work was completed on the Manor after my posting last night.
     
    First up was some work inside the cab, soldering the cab floor into position and adding the strip to the inside of the cab sides.  I think the only etchings left to fit in the cab are now the seats.   I am trying to push myself with this build, and a key part of this is trying to solder everything rather than taking the easy option and gluing in small parts.
     
    With the reinforcing strips added, the next job was working out what on earth the rivet strips I mentioned in my last post were intended for.  Eventually it twigged that they add the rivet detail to the flange running under the cab sides, so they were formed and soldered into position. 
     
    Next up was fixing an earlier omission, the detail on the rear under the cab had not been soldered on at an earlier stage.  The first job was to trim the flange under the cab sides flush with the end of the loco, and to prepare the drag beam overlay adding the half etched buffing plates.   The whole unit could then be soldered in place under the cab, followed by the remaining cab steps.  Again thanks to lack of clarity in the instructions I didn't realise the kit includes two designs of steps, the ones I used  and an improved design that is easier to fold up.  
     
    The final job of the evening was to be fitting the cab roof, after forming it to shape I decided it was a bit tricky for 1130 at night and called it a day.  I have another issue with the instructions here in that they don't explain how pt116 the cab roof curved support strip should be fitted, (in fact the instructions refer to pt116 as the smokebox step!)  My guess is at the rear of the roof before the curved insets, while pt95 the roof beading goes around the whole edge (and forms the gutters.)  My logic is to solder pt116 to the roof, then solder the roof to the model before adding the beading once its all in situ.  If I still have any, some lower melting point solder will come in handy I suspect...
     
    As I am now approaching the point when I will need to roll the boiler, I need to search for a suitable vice to hold it in position. That said, looking at the instructions there are a lot of small parts which need to be fitted before I get there.  It is certainly starting to look more like a locomotive, 
     
     
     
     


  20. The Fatadder

    Mitchell Manor pt4

    By The Fatadder,

    Thanks to a last minute change in valentine's day plans (with my wife having to work) instead of going out to dinner I have managed to get a little more done on the Manor, starting with the flanges on the motion bracket.  A fairly easy job once I worked out what part needed to be used (no thanks to the instructions!)  The next job was the fire iron tunnel, sweating together 3 parts was a bit of a pain (as it kept coming apart when I added the third layer).  After a little fettling it was soldered into position.   This was followed by adding the nameplate bracket, again this needed a little fettling to get a decent fit.  
     
    Next up the rear steps, with the first pair fabricated and then soldered onto the model.

     
     
    Next up will be the other steps, and another bit which is not entirely clear from the text (and not shown in the drawings) pt50 rivet strip which needs to be fitted "under the curved rear footplate, hard up against the valance".  I have also just spotted that I have missed off parts 44 and 53 were omitted and need to be added (after cutting off the excess material to the rear of the valance. 
  21. The Fatadder
    Another hour's work on the Manor last night and more progress.
     
    First up was the cab, the etched beading was completed (adding the mm or so up to the roof) before bending to shape and test fitting the cab floor.  
    Once I was happy with the cab it was soldered into position on the footplate.
     
    Next up was an attempt to try and finish off those parts which were missed off in earlier stages, so on went the lamp irons (along with resoldering the joint between the bufferbeam front and the footplate).  I wanted to add the etched valve covers next, however the etches appear to have wandered off.  I need to find some decent photos and scratch build some replacement parts...
     
    This left no more room for procrastination, it was time to get the splashers fitted.  Putting Tuesday night's effort to one side I prepared the next etch, strangely this one was slightly longer and was a perfect fit (and quickly soldered into place onto the footplate.)  This was followed by the other splashers on the front two axles.  After a long look I still cant work out how the splasher is fitted to the rear driver, there just simply isn't room for it to pass through under the cab front.  Instead I chopped it down to length and just soldered on the visible section, the left hand splasher here was the most difficult given its width and the lack of access inside the model.
     
    The final job for the night was the motion bracket, with the parts soldered together before fitting to the model.  Again the instructions are a little unclear in this area, mentioning adding a flange pt 59.  There are two of these on the etch, however pt59 is also referred to as the front for the splasher in an earlier step

     


     
    I cant remember what (if any) detail photos I took of this area (not that it matters until the Galleries function is working again), so if anyone has any detail photos they can share it will be appreciated.   I am missing some castings here (the semi-circular box forward of the motion bracket) which will need forming from plasticard and gluing in place once finished.
     
    I must remember that I want to get the bracket for the nameplate soldered on before I do much more work 
  22. The Fatadder
    On to part two of the Manor build…
     
    The focus of the work here should have been adding the splashers, however I have had real difficulties getting them to fit.  With the splasher rolled to shape and placed on top of the inner splasher (the folded up etch that you attach the detail etch for the front of the splasher), it is about half a mm too short.  As a result I was struggling to solder them in place.  In the end I tried an alternative approach soldering the splasher to the front piece and then trying to fit to the model, without any success.  In the end I decided to put this aside for another day…
     
    Another splasher related issue is at the rear, the kit supplies 2 types of etch (a wide splasher and a narrow one) but they are all the same length.  The cab front does not have wide enough holes for the cab to sit on top of the splasher, so I assume this needs to be cut to length (its not mentioned in the instructions)

     
    Speaking of the instructions, I got fed up with the really hard to read massive block of text approach.  So whilst sat watching the tv on Monday night I used some editing software (Photo Scan) to convert the PDF text into a Word document (splicing in the drawings as I went).  Once in Word I added a little formatting, and I now have a set of instructions with steps separated out into paragraphs.  Brassmasters have done the same with the Finney instructions and it makes a huge difference!
     
    One of the big issues with putting a kit down for 3 years part way through the build is that you forget where you stopped.  While  working on the splashers I spotted that the inner etch for the left hand rear splasher had not been soldered into position, so the first job was to rectify this.  Next up there was a mistake with forming the beading around the cab side windows, I had included the hole for the handrail on the wrong end).  As the etch was perfectly formed I didn’t want to rebend the brass, so instead I have drilled holes in the correct place before soldering the beading into position.  While the drill was out I also drilled the 3 holes for each grab handle under the cabside windows.  It was now time to assemble the cab, the inner core had already been assembled so it was just a case of sweating the cab front and sides onto the core, before fettling the location tabs and test fitting.

     
    While test fitting I spotted another omission from the earlier work, I hadn’t added the plate which continues the footplate under the cab, so these were formed to shape and soldered into position. 
    I now need to go through the early stages instructions and double check for any other missing parts*.  Looking at the drawing there are at least two small parts missing from the footplate on the curved section at the front…

    Tonight’s work will either be adding a floor and roof to finish off the cab, or finally fitting those splashers (if I can work out how…)
     
     
    *Over lunch I have had a quick read through the earlier parts of the instructions vs the above photos, I think I have missed off the following: 
    - 71 Lamp Irons
    - 74 Valve covers 
    - F18 large oil reservoir (I need to double check that I actually have this part)
    - potentially a 10BA nut if I am going to have a removeable boiler 
     
    I took a whole load of Manor detail photos a while back (either at Swindon or Didcot), annoyingly they are all on my Gallery on the forum which of course is yet to be reactivated.  Hopefully I have a back up somewhere else, as I could do with the close ups of splashers and detail fittings etc...
  23. The Fatadder
    Now that my Cameo Competition layout is pretty much finished, its time to get back to work on Brent.  After months of working with plastic RTR models, I feel a bit of kit building is in order. 
    So its out with a long term project and my Mitchell Manor kit.  
      
    I started this back in 2015 after buying half a kit from Malcom (a full set of etches and most of the castings), however I have no tender (which will be a Hornby Churchward 3500gl) and no chassis.   I am also missing one key casting, the wide spacer which forms the joint between the smokebox and the boiler. 
     
    I am undecided as to which loco I am modelling, it will either be 7800 (for which plates are included on the etch) or 7813 for which there is a photo of the loco at Newton Abbot in 1948.  
     
    Work so far: 
    Most of the work so far has focused around the footplate, which is now pretty much complete.  the next area of attention will be the cab, before having to make a start on the job I have long been putting off (forming the boiler).

     
    I need to make a decision as to how I will power the model, the options are a Mitchell chassis (not currently available, expensive but a perfect fit), a Comet chassis (not quite as expensive, needs modifying to fit), or a rewheeled Hornby Grange (unclear how the body needs to be modified, will be reliable out the box, will be the cheapest option (and includes a tender).
     
    Hopefully I can crack out the soldering iron this evening and start on the cab...
  24. The Fatadder
    An update on the large door NSA
    Now fitted with roof and VHF radio pod, along with window grills.
     
    Annoyingly I seem to have lost the roof for the second NSA (I am worried it’s lost behind the workbench (which means emptying most of the room to pull the desk out). I really need to get on with adding a back plate to it...
     
    After year end reporting is done at work, the plan is to convert the other side of the NUA and start thinking about the 2nd NTA.

     
    Happy New Year
  25. The Fatadder

    DC KitsTPO NSA pt2

    By The Fatadder,

    On to part two of my TPO build, with the girls up very early again this morning (and distracted by their new toys). I snuck off to the railway room for half an hour before heading out for the day.
     
    The first task was fitting the final section of side, cutting to length and then flying into place.
     
    Once this dried the roof was temporarily fitted and attention moved on to the right hand panel. One side on my chosen prototype has a different window location. (A word of warning, it seems no two TPO coaches were the same, with windows and grills appearing in different places).
    Fortunately I have a lot of spare window frames from my Bachmann conversion. So after carving off the original frame and filling with evergreen strip, I drilled out and added the new frame.
     
    It now needs a bit of filler, the roof needs to be updated with different vents and it will be ready for paint.
     
    I looked at starting on the second one, but the chassis is a bit more difficult to use. I have stripped it down but I am now thinking I will look in my VSOE box and swap chassis with one of those (as it hopefully will have the raised edge that is required).
     

     

    NTA
     

    NSA
     

    NSA (t)
     

    NUA
     
    As many as I can show on Wheal Imogen. I need to find some OO disk wheels and get the bogies capable of working on Brent. (And I need to get the bits ordered for my 1940s equivalent set
     
    I am thinking about adding another NTA if I can source another cheap Bachmann NSA, I want to do one of the NTAs with the recess from the nets (a pretty heavy rebuild to do the windows and add an extra door)
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