Dave Holt
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Blog Comments posted by Dave Holt
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Thanks for the kind comments. Recovery is probably just a matter of time.
Regarding the crewing issue, moveable crew sounds a bit too complicated, even if technically possible. I think I'll go for the two on the loco and one in the coach suggestion.
Dave.
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Mike,
Thanks for your kind comments on the Std 2 tank.
I've started the Rumney chassis for the welded 16 tonner (D109, with Morton brake gear). So far I've made up and fitted the chassis top and the W iron part and, as you and John say, it all goes together very nicely indeed.
Dave.
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John,
Yes, thanks. I wasn't worried about the assembly of the Rumney kit, but rather my lack of prototype knowledge regarding axleboxes, holes in W irons, builders plates, etc., for which the kits give options.. No doubt when its done, someone will point out that the particular wagon number didn't have some aspect I've built in.
Dave.
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....or unusually long arms!
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It's certainly coming along well. Perhaps you could break up the large strawberry patch by having a few workers weeding or such?
I must say, the track divergence and board width at the near end of the last photo do look rather wide. Will you have access to both sides when operating, in case of derailments (which, of course, never actually happen on our P4 layouts) or the need for a gentle prod of a recalcitrant loco?
Dave.
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Were it my choice, I'd go Bradwell for the chassis kit.
I agree. Dave's chassis is a thing of beauty. I also have one in my "to do" store.
Dave.
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Gibson wheels. Apparently, they have too small a crank throw for the 9F, being based on the Class 2 wheel but I lived with that. I don't think there's currently a better wheel available (don't know anything about Markits). Barrow Road, of this site, has had some P4 wheels made by machining the Bachmann wheel centres and fitting new tyres. Only viable if you have the requisite tools and skill.
Dave.
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I built one in P4 and used a mix of compensation and springs. The front truck and centre driving axle are both sprung using coil springs. The first and second drivers have a singe, central beam and the rear two drivers have twin beams. Track holding is superb and the ride very smooth and steady, having no fixed axle. The only thing I would change is to limit the downward movement of the sprung centre axle so it cannot drop below rail head. I have experienced odd occasions when the flangeless wheels have dropped off the rail on too sharp a curve and dropped down, jamming the whole thing up!
I drove the 4th axle with a High Level gearbox, motor vertical in the firebox.
The frames and coupling rods were from Alan Gibson - correct wheel spacing - the rods having joints at all the intermediate wheels. Because of the deeper flanges in EM, I think you need to stick to the Comet bits, which have a stretched wheel base so the flanges don't overlap. If you purchase and extra valve gear set, you can modify the coupling rods to give the required articulation for a fully compensated chassis.
Good luck with it.
Dave.
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Very effective scenics, in my view. The first photo makes me think of the orchards at various NT properties I visit and the strawberry patches look most convincing.
Looking forward to seeing further progress.
Dave.
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Hi David.
You're making good progress and it must be very satisfying to be able to pass trains, now as shown in your video. Is the ultimate aim to go right round the room or will there be two dead-end fiddle yards?
Just a thought. When passing trains on a single track line, it is normal for the train arriving second (the E4) to depart first, due to the way the token machines work.
Best wishes for further progress with the layout.
Dave.
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Hi David.
Yes, I very much enjoy seeing the progress with your layout. As Western Star says, the trackwork looks very neat and flowing and you seem to be making good progress.
In the bottom photo, is the left hand point just a trap at the end of the lay-by or does it extend further towards the yawning gap?
Keep up the good work.
Dave.
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It certainly is coming along nicely, as you say. The transformation from bare boards with track to the scene you are creating is most impressive and gives me hope for my layout, although I have a lot to learn to achieve your level of results.
Dave.
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David.
Yes, your pick-up goods reverses through the double slip very smoothly, despite the various underframe arrangements. I think it goes to show that if your track is to a high standard, short wheel-base four wheeled P4 stock will work without suspension.
You sound, rightly, very pleased with the result. Encouragement to press on.
Dave.
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Very impressive, Robin. Does each road to/near/past the turntable have a specific purpose or are they all just general storage?
Dave.
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David.
Glad to hear that you're getting back into it. The new track certainly is giving some idea of the scale of the layout. I must say, with the Templot track layout burned into the cork underlay, you have to look twice to see that the track isn't there yet.
With no particular knowledge on the subject, I agree with the general feeling that the brick wall would have had much less or no lichen back in steam days.
Dave.
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David.
A nice selection of wagons, very well finished. I take it the pre-grouping vehicles lasted into the BR era or do these serve some other purpose?
Dave.
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It looks stunning, even if its not an LMS engine, truly brilliant
There is an Ivatt version on the way, based on the Bachmann body.
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Thanks for the kind comments, all.
I've just added some shots of the fireman's side, also showing the number and shed code plates and smokebox door handles.
Dave.
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Robin,
You look to be making excellent progress with the fiddle yard and shed yard. I hope it's more pleasant working in your layout room than it is in my model room recently. It's so unbearably hot up here that I haven't done any modelling for weeks now.
Dave.
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David, very nice, indeed. Laser cutting/engraving certainly opens up possibilities to model actual structures rather than using standard brick representations. I especially like the diamond pattern edging bricks - very evocative of railway platforms.
Dave.
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Hi David.
Sorry to hear of your trials and tribulations with the chip - a rather expensive incident, I imagine. Had you caused a short whilst dismantling the body from chassis? I've got a strange shorting issue with one of my DCC equipped locos, but I don't think any smoke has been generated.
On the other hand, I'm really pleased that you have been enthused to start looking at your P4 layout once more. Best wishes with that project and I look forward to further updates in due course.
Dave.
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Dave
That looks spanking...is it the DJH kit?
Mike
Yes, Mike. It's based on the DJH kit but stretched to the correct scale length - hence the new cab roof. The kit push-pull equipment was also mainly replaced by bits from other sources. The chassis is Comet with a fair amount of extra detail. Pony trucks based on the Brassmasters etches with one modified to represent the swing link side control type. Much of this appears in earlier entries in the blog.
Dave.
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Hi Robin.
How about the various wagon turntables? I suppose if they were only used for non-operational locos or wheel sets, there's no point in having them work on the layout?
Dave.
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The boiler house and stores buildings look very good, Robin.
How many of the fiddle yard points did you manage before needing a sanity break?
Dave.
Ivatt 2MT Tank in P4 - Part 1 chassis
in Ullypug's tales from the tinking table
A blog by ullypug in RMweb Blogs
Posted
Nice to see someone else having a go at one of these [in P4]. I'm sure you will be able to sort out the ride height by judicious filing/cutting. It's so long ago that I started mine, I can't remember what the issues were, I just know it sits right now [bottom of the tanks level and correct height above rail].
It looks like you have a different rear body mounting arrangement to me. On mine, there were two mounting pillars inside the bunker moulding, so I fixed two pieces of brass angle on the outside of the frames, set at the correct height, to pick up these original Bachmann mountings.
To suit my own preferences, I purchased a second valve gear etch, which allowed me to double up on some of the valve gear items. For most valve gear pivots [except forked joints], I tend to use brass lace makers pins with their heads reduced in both diameter and thickness [twirl against a file whilst held in a pin chuck]. Make the pin a tighter fit in the rear layer and use a layer of [possibly oiled] cigarette paper between the rod to prevent soldering the whole thing solid.
Good luck with it and keep us updated with progress.
Dave.