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Ivatt 2MT Tank in P4 - Part 1 chassis


ullypug

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As it's been too cold and wet to go to the garage this weekend, I've shuffled up to the work bench and turned my attention to another loco for Cheddar.
This one's an Ivatt 2-6-2 2MT tank which were a regular feature of the Cheddar Valley branch. No idea what number it'll be yet.
The basis is the Bachmann body with a Comet chassis to go underneath, Gibson wheels, High Level horn blocks and gearbox and fully sprung with CSB's, as is my usual these days.
The chassis side frames were assembled and spacers added. The benefit of P4 means I can get a Mashima 1420 motor well down in-between the frames so it doesn't really matter what gear box I choose. It's a Road Runner Compact Plus if anyone's remotely interested, with a 54:1 reduction. The rear horn blocks are the space saver variety.
CSB's are made with Markits WD handrail knobs and the useful High Level jig for positioned the anchors. Happily quartering worked first time with my usual NWSL jig.
All seems to fit on the body, though the front end may be a tad high. Next it'll be the intricacies of Walschaerts valve gear which will be a first.

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Nice to see someone else having a go at one of these [in P4]. I'm sure you will be able to sort out the ride height by judicious filing/cutting. It's so long ago that I started mine, I can't remember what the issues were, I just know it sits right now [bottom of the tanks level and correct height above rail].

It looks like you have a different rear body mounting arrangement to me. On mine, there were two mounting pillars inside the bunker moulding, so I fixed two pieces of brass angle on the outside of the frames, set at the correct height, to pick up these original Bachmann mountings.

To suit my own preferences, I purchased a second valve gear etch, which allowed me to double up on some of the valve gear items. For most valve gear pivots [except forked joints], I tend to use brass lace makers pins with their heads reduced in both diameter and thickness [twirl against a file whilst held in a pin chuck]. Make the pin a tighter fit in the rear layer and use a layer of [possibly oiled] cigarette paper between the rod to prevent soldering the whole thing solid.

Good luck with it and keep us updated with progress.

Dave.

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Looking good. Even a bit of christmas spirit with those red rod holders :-) Good luck with the valve gear.

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Nice to see someone else having a go at one of these [in P4]. I'm sure you will be able to sort out the ride height by judicious filing/cutting. It's so long ago that I started mine, I can't remember what the issues were, I just know it sits right now [bottom of the tanks level and correct height above rail].

It looks like you have a different rear body mounting arrangement to me. On mine, there were two mounting pillars inside the bunker moulding, so I fixed two pieces of brass angle on the outside of the frames, set at the correct height, to pick up these original Bachmann mountings.

To suit my own preferences, I purchased a second valve gear etch, which allowed me to double up on some of the valve gear items. For most valve gear pivots [except forked joints], I tend to use brass lace makers pins with their heads reduced in both diameter and thickness [twirl against a file whilst held in a pin chuck]. Make the pin a tighter fit in the rear layer and use a layer of [possibly oiled] cigarette paper between the rod to prevent soldering the whole thing solid.

Good luck with it and keep us updated with progress.

Dave.

Ride height now sorted and brass pins ordered! Thanks for the tip. The rear mount is as you describe so I may copy your solution.

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Looking good. Even a bit of christmas spirit with those red rod holders :-) Good luck with the valve gear.

Thanks! I'm going to need it. I've managed to avoid building outside gear for 50 years and I'm not planning on building many more!

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Work steadily and methodically, remember to make two handed sets[!], follow the guidelines and I bet you'll do just fine and wonder why you were so apprehensive. Do follow the Comet instructions and have a few good photos of the real thing, so you know what you are supposed to be representing - I've seen two models recently with the curved expansion links fitted back-to-front.

All the locos I've built except the recent Caprotti Black 5 have outside valve gear, so I must have done a first one and survived.

Dave.

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