EHertsGER

It was. This is July ‘72. If there had been a Jubilee I would have photographed that too!

I am in the process of changing ‘City of London’ to P4 via a Comet chassis. In doing so I have found the injectors to be an appalling representation of the actual item. Does anyone have or know of any good photographs of them. I fear fabrication is the order of progress here. many thanks, Best, Marcus

Thank you!

Without delving into RCTS/Yeadon and so on, the N7/3 has 3’ 6” dia trailing wheels, had a different bunker and rear window arrangement and so on...did Oxford release an N7/3? Not as far as I can tell. 8011 was a N7/GER as was 1001 (technically not an N7 but an L85). The BR ones were numbered as N7/1s rebuilt as N7/4 which might excuse the cab front spectacles as remnants of the belpaire firebox that went before... ..and (unless you are being period specific to 1932/33) 8011 should have been lined... AFAIK best, Marcus

I have acquired an original ‘Wills‘ GWR 2251 kits, but it is missing its instructions. I need to identify some parts #s to order missing ones. Does anyone have a set they could copy and add here, please? Perhaps this should be the ‘go to’ page for requests for missing instructions in future. My thanks in advance. Best, Marcus

Turning back to my P4 conversion after mugging up on LNER liveries means I now have to line it (and renumber). Does Oxford plan on a lined LNER one - one would think so as all condensers had gone by the time they went plain black. If so, I’ll strip the condensers and go for the postwar ‘belpaire’ look... Those of a more selective nature may be able to convince the assembled company that their LNER N/7 is as running c1932/33 when Stratford shops ran out of red paint temporarily due to the scarcity of material during the depression. Best check your Yeadon/RCTS before making such assertions, though. We can't be fooled that easily, you know!

A very specific request, perhaps, but also possibly applicable to all LNER tank locomotives appearing in lined black livery. I am looking to establish the lining layout on the rear of the bunker of an F4 c1923 (106e, just like on the box). It is possible the post 1928 scheme was different. So far what I have seen of F4 lining in general is that it corresponds only in some areas to that stated in the LNER forum site, namely that: - bunker lining does not extend around the bunker but remains on the single panel - lined boiler bands are seldom applied (I know its hard to see them, but I rreally have looked with a strong magnifier) - lining does not extend over the roof - spectacle plates are not lined, nor are spectacles Most of those pictures in which I have been able to see the lining are from the 1920s/early 1930s. By the late 1930s they seem too filthy to tell. Regardless, back to the bunker. I have already inspected it. Your help, inspiration and chatter is very welcome! best, Marcus

tsk tsk...odd jobs and goldfingers...

Like the man said... which helped me sort out some doubts about door handles... best, Marcus

Which is why I asked in the first place. They look nice in the flat, but then, why???

So, finally, things on my bench have taken a leap into the recognisable in the form of four assembled bodies of diags 102-105. They do need a good clean, but each has droplights, ventilators, doorhandles and grab handles. Count them. That’s the delay explained... Anyway, here they are waiting for me to pounce again and begin with solebars, trussing and undergubbins while I work out the articulation. one or two notes; the floors were replaced by more solid 0.018” n/s sheet (see previous notes for reasons) with the exception of diag 105 which was built around an MJT 51’ underframe kit. Roofs are MJT aluminium extrusions. Best, Marcus

Has anyone seen any LNER decals for the Parkside D5?

Has anyone had a crack at the etched roof/end combination in the Kemilway kits? I’m tempted ‘just because’ but the day isn’t long enough...

Mike, thanks for the comments. My feeling is the brush is too soft, depriving me of a ‘grain’ in the application. Otherwise, happy with the second coat. Now, I went off to Western Thunderer and had a lovely time - until I got to the bit about printed seats and tables and so on. The solution to my seating needs! Are you planning to add them to your Shapeways catalogue? I was planning on casting them in resin... best, Marcus

Well, I seem to have the hang of this, but what of the roofs? I know they started as white lead, but what shades did they go through and what patterns of sooting developed until they became all-over dirty? I have tried roof dirt overall, but they seem just to be BR grey colour. I’m going to start again... a nice gentle teak finish, but a little bland, so... Another coat - in bad light and with a darker roof. Still not there yet... Comments/guidance - especially on the subject of roofs, most welcome. best, Marcus

Here we go again! Avid readers may recall I mentioned I would ‘ask Bill’ about the diag 102 that wasn’t. My question was added to an order for sufficient sides to ‘cut and shut’ to create a set of 102 sides. Well, I got the sides I ordered - and a new set of correct diag 102 sides: - which in my book amounts to the definition of ‘customer service’ as is the nom de temps. Thank you, Bill! Onwards... ...and a whole lot of other diagrams to build now, but you know I enjoy this sort of thing

Don’t, please, start me on A1s, A2 or Dave Bradwell in general. His kits are so tempting; there is a 9f in my box of things to do and I swear I mutter to myself ‘no, its going to be Comet, we’re not that good’ every time I think about it. The man makes masterpieces - nice chap too - and some fool has just announced a slough of RTR A2s for later this year. Dammit.

Thank you to all who commented. I’ve taken an ‘experimental’ step, in sofar as I have bought another pacific (!) plus another chassis to match the original. This is intended to test the idea of a ‘two chassis’ model - one, the original which might seem extravagant, but some of these locos are ‘limited’ editions etc. The other being the mauled and ‘brassmastered’, converted, P4 effort! I just can’t bring myself to hack up such lovely original chassis. So, cost-wise this might seem a bit much, but add £120 for the locomotive, £50 for the brassmasters chassis, £50 for the spare and £120 for the (Ultrascale) wheelset and that extra £50 makes little difference. Yes, it is expensive, but I may only do this once. Or not.

It is...see my blog pages, but in summary, a PDK kit on a Finecast chassis and scratchbuilt tender...

Paul/David I did omit to mention the Finney kits that are also in my ‘portfolio’ of pacifics. I look forward to making them, but with a few irresistible locomotives ‘ready made’ I was looking for a quick way to P4. Brassmasters again looks very promising. I had hoped a Comet/SEF would ‘bolt on’ as my Coronation chassis did (bar those appalling injectors) , allowing me to revert to the original if a 00 gauge run was offered. I may give the Comet one a try, but I will admit a leaning to Brassmasters. Thank you both for tour help. I’ll let you know how it goes! best, Marcus

My thanks to Wickham Green; I wasn't clear because I wasn't sure what I could achieve, but you have set me on the course I had hoped for, which is "Eastleigh Green", or in Railmatch terms, Dark Olive. My thanks also to Steamport Southport for a similar set of guidelines. Dark Olive it is, then. Thank you to everyone who helped out. Best, Marcus

I have a number of LNER Pacifics (and will have a lot more later this year!) that, as RTR items are 00 gauge. I would like them to be P4, so as I see it I have a number of options: 1. Re-wheel them using the manufacturers chassis (mostly Hornby), 2. Use a Brassmasters Easichas around the (Hornby) chassis, to the exclusions of anything Bachmann, 3. Replace the chassis with an SE Finecast kit in its entirety, safe in the knowledge that the original chassis is unmolested in case of a change of heart, 4. Replace the chassis with an Comet kit in its entirety, safe in the knowledge that the original chassis is unmolested in case of a change of heart, 5. Replace the chassis with an complete Brassmasters (Finney) chassis kit in its entirety, safe in the knowledge that the original chassis is unmolested in case of a change of heart (did I just write that? Whatever next??) 6. Scratchbuild a chassis to suit (really?? more?) So far I have 9 to do...and two P2s. I'd bet most of you would laugh me out of the house for pursuing 5 or 6, so what are your views on 1-4? Best, Marcus

I am currently wrestling with a Schools Class construction project and have got to the point of needing paint. Reference sources cite the use of LSWR green (“sage”) from the Maunsell era, edged with black/white. Then comes another green under Maunsell (“Maunsell green”) then another (“pre-war Malachite”), and a number of olive greens (including “Dover Green”) and this is before we get into the lining combinations. Post war we have another (“post war Malachite”) Malachite. Enough is enough - suffice to say my project will be in the pre-Maunsell green as outshopped in 1933 (it’s 920 ‘Rugby’ for the curious). So, to commercial sources of the various greens. I prefer Railmatch acrylics and so have a Malachite (pre or post war?) and two olive greens to choose from. Failing that, Precision offers Eastleigh and Ashford olive greens as well as Pre and Post war Malachite as well as LSWR “Urie” green. Others may offer colours too, of which I am unaware, but that is not my issue. That is; which is which, or rather, which commercial offering is which prototype ‘green’. I’m NOT going to paint it black! Best, Marcus

Does anyone know of Bill’s whereabouts? I have sent off several orders (including the ‘vital’ bits to keep this going) but, even after the ‘28 days’ still no movement. It is possible he is busy/distracted/ill (goodness, I hope not, even just with a cold. Misery in all this chaos.), so I am more worried than impatient.

And then there is this...