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Blog Comments posted by ullypug
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When making the orchard trees, did you hold them upside down when sprinkling on the red?
I confess I didn't. There is just the smattering from above to indicate apples. If you turned the trees over, you'd see hundreds of course. Ahem...!
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Blummin brilliant modelling there Andrew captures it very very well, even the apple trees it’s just as I remember it. Particularly photos 3,6,7,8,9 and 14,15 and 16 obviously for me post Beeching without the rails and loco.. Fiveways Farm was Mr. Parsons who owned it always had an old red Fergy tractor to run about on in the 1970s Had one with a cab and tarpaulins, there was a hay cart in the orchard for years blue and red painted it was stood there until it rotted away. Irrelevant I know but your model evokes memories. Cheers Ade
Thanks. It's not irrelevant at all. Please keep them coming! I'll add a tractor and a rotting hay cart to the shopping list. If you have any other nuggets, I'd be delighted to hear from you. I have no recollection of the line pre closure so it's all good stuff for me. I'm really interested in the cottage that lay on the north side between the stone loading shed and the goods shed. I've very few photos of that to go on.
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Absolutely superb work here on your blog and extremely useful details for fencing.
Grahame
Thanks
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looks good. I've a few to build myself.
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That's really good, nothing uniform. Did you re-colour some of the ground work to give the different shades? What techniques did you use?
Mike
Thanks Mike
The basic ground cover is a blend of Heki 3367 (wild grass meadow green) and 3368 (wild grass forest floor). I then tend to waft Green Scenes straw from a puffer bottle over the top of that to lighten that. Green Scenes foam is sprinkled onto that for the basic layer.
The next layer is postiche, teased out to about 4cm by 4cm squares and sprayed with adhesive before being sprinkled with a selection of Green Scenes foams (sorry don't have the references). Key is never to use the same bag on adjacent pieces.
Hedges and larger bushes are rubberised horsehair, teased out sprayed with grey primer before adhesive and darker Green Scenes foams again.
Hope that helps.
Andrew
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Oops - it happens to us all Andrew (not with a wheelbase, thus far, but I do have a couple of wagons somewhere which have had to have the floors made up to the right length) but keeping quiet covers a multitude...
I do like the coach - proper hairshirt stuff!
Adam
Brilliant stuff Andrew, it looks cracking.
Regards,
Nick
Thanks gents
The body's now been primed and I've more or less finished the chassis.
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That's looking very good. Can't remember seeing you do greenery before.
The road colour looks very good to me, especially in those first shorts where it appears lighter. A tad too rough maybe?
It has really grown! Lovely work.
Best wishes,
Nick.
Thanks
That road should be surfaced? I thought your model was set post 1950? Check the "Titfield Thunderbolt" film for the road surface.
Certainly in the 1940's the road surface was not metalled, but I don't know at what point the main road or the side roads would have been dressed. What did you do on Clutton?
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Thanks guys. It's been emotional.
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That's an impressive amount of detailing.
Looks nice.
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That looks really good. Well done!
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Superb modelling. Captures the prototype form nicely... Cheers, Mark
Thanks Mark
Very nice Andrew. Will you be bringing it along to your demo table at Scaleforum?
Well done on completing the Coast to Coast. It was in 2011 that took on the challenge with my two children. On walking down into Robin Hoods Bay I didn't want the experience to stop. A wonderful time was had by all.
Hi Ian
I'm not doing a demo at S4um this year (as far as I know anyway) but I will be there to see Tredethy Wharf!
Coast to Coast was a blast. Met so many interesting people and really enjoyed the challenge. Glad I've not been doing it last/this week though. Too hot!!
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Good stuff. The world needs more china clay layouts!
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Very nice modelling of a useful locomotive, I look forward to seeing progress.Enjoy the Coast to Coast walk. Grahame
Thanks! I'll put up a link to the blog I'm doing for thatIt's a real pleasure to follow this build. And now you've made me look up the coast to coast route, that looks like something to put on the bucket list! Have a good trip. -
I've never had or used an RSU but you make it sound quite a useful tool, especially where lots of overlays are used. It's always hard to get solder to flow in to the middle using a conventional iron and I find that with pre-tinned surfaces, it is still difficult to be sure you've re-melted the solder when laminating. Perhaps I should seriously consider acquiring an RSU.
Nice to see progress with this and the layout.
Dave.
Thanks Dave. I think you'd find a RSU useful.
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Looking very nice, Makes me think some more about getting my one finished.
I dont suppose I could be really cheeky and ask if I could have the redundant OO frame spacers please? Mine was bought 2nd hand built to P4 and there are issues with the chassis, so I am thinking about unsoldering the spacers and rebuilding it to OO for use on Brent.
PM sent.
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I'm following your thread with great interest as I've 3 of these kits to do (you can never have too many Moguls) but heaven knows when I'll be able to get round to them. I want to produce 3 variants, including one of the early short-cab versions, all in early 1920s condition. Your use of CSB has rather encouraged me to go the same way so thank you for that! There is one thing - which gear box & motor are you using? I've been encouraged such that I might even make a start stocking up on the necessary parts for the first one from High Level Kits at Railex!
Martin
Hi Martin
It's a standard Roadrunner at 54:1
I'm going to mount the motor vertically exactly as Chris does with his Collett Goods chassis kit. Which motor will depend on what happens once the body is built but it should be a 1424 all being well.
Good luck and keep us informed of how you get on!
Andrew
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Forgive me for asking but what is CSB John Lewsey
No worries!
Continuous Springy Beams. The horn blocks and chassis is sprung using a run of steel guitar wire which you can make out in the photos
More information on the CLAG website here
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I think they're the future (to mis- quote Peter Kay).I have never done a csb chassis, but I quite fancy having a go at some point. I'm interested to see how it all works out .
Oh dear! It's my first. I've a couple more to do. Finesse wise, I've only built one Finney to date and that was a pleasure.Mitchell designed kits are a joy to build. Finished one of these 5 years ago and I still have to put the wheels in it...a rather timely reminder! Built the Mitchell tender to go with it...hated putting in the flares.Mike -
Depends on where one finds one's excitement, Andrew!
A nice selection - the spoil/ballast opens are among my favourite wagons and those Chivers' kits are great. Palvan might be a bit unlikely down Cheddar way c.1960 (most were on circuit workings) but not impossible, I guess. It is a nice kit though.
Adam
I'm sure I had a photo of one in East Somerset Yard, Wells. At least that's what I'm going to tell myself!
Productive as always Andrew!
I do try!
Nice wagons, Andrew.
I had a look in one of my P4 wagon boxes the other day, which I hadn't opened for about 3 years and found a couple of conversions in there that I had completely forgotten about!
Best of luck with the 43XX and those CSBs, by the way. You're braver than me (and clearly brainier as well!).
Don't know about that Tim. It's not as hard as it appears and makes a significant difference!
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I swear you don't even use solder!!
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Beautiful. It's almost a shame to paint it!
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I do like that handrail bending jig. Can these still be had?
Regards, Andy
Yes. Available from Eileens Emporium on line or at shows.
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That's a very clever idea. Might have to pinch that!!
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That looks very smooth. And fun!
The PW train is an absolute gem, makes me want to change modelling period.
Funnily enough, I think the same when I look at Farthing!
Cheddar P4 - Sept 2018 update - greenery part 3
in The Strawberry Line
A blog by ullypug in RMweb Blogs
Posted
The two anchors at either end fix the height of each of the strands in the fence. When pulled taught, you then have straight lines between the two ends. You don't have any allowance for changes in ground levels along the way at the points inbetween.
If the fence passes over a depression in the ground into which the posts are fixed, the wires will therefore be an unrealistic height above this as it passes in a straight line. The opposite is true if the ground rises over a crest. The traveller is positioned at each post, then the strands glued to it as you go. In this way, the strands are always at the correct height for each post, rather than the extremities. Does that make sense?
I feel an article coming on!