Pennine MC

It's also had some patch painting (not uncommon), below the stripe and on the bottom part of the door.

Neither myself or Martin (Pugsley), the two of us who have probably most popularised it on here, would claim it's a panacea - to me it's like powders, in that it's essentially a tool for adding more varied finishing effects, rather than a basic weathering medium like 'proper' paints. Part of the reason for this is that both are mediums that need some texture to adhere properly - Mike's experiments look OK but I wouldnt like to say how durable those large areas would be, over time. You're always going to be better IMO learning how to use enamels or acrylics to do the bulk of your weathering, rather than seeing new or fancy media as a salvation If they're set well enough, you should be able to tone them down with a thin wash of gouache - load a small amount of the wash onto a fine brush and apply it carefully with the point

I think they were trying to mimic the Hudswells by giving it a dummy chimney as well.

Car grey primer is OK-ish but usually a tad dark IMO. I'd need to check at home to be sure of the number, but when this has come up before I've said I've settled on Revell (#76) for repainting Bachmann, or the raw Airfix plastic for a wagon receiving any amount of rusting (as per the two pictured above). This is for mostly mid- '60s to turn of the '70s wagons, anything rebodied or replated post-1970ish will be Rail Grey anyway. As to whether they're 'correct', I wont really be drawn further, partly as there were so many shades of grey in use anyway but mainly because anything beyond the most basic weathering will introduce further shade variations; I have wagons base coated with #76 that after treatment, look completely differnt to each other, which I'm quite happy with

Impossible to say without knowing the photo that's been worked from - and they do usually (work from photos). No reason to doubt it though, look around Paul Bartlett's site and you'll find far more mismatched examples of patch-painting than that.

Not to mention the ones in the strategic reserve Some 21s reached the scrappie in all-green, I know I've seen a pic but can never remember where

Oh dear, let's see if we can unravel all this before folk get misled It can't be LNER built if it has a B-prefixed number, can it? - it's an early BR build (dia 1/500) to the last LNER design, so the short steps and planked inner end are correct. It's nowhere near that simple - this van would have been built fully-fitted (as were all LNER 'long' Toads), but it could have lost its vac cylinder and pipes later in life without being reliveried. Most BR builds were piped only, some were fitted; all got bauxite, as did some unfitted vans

Thought it might be something like that; not something I've ever been inclined to try, I must admit Absolutely, it's just some sort of local shorthand (dont we all have this sort of thing in our day jobs ). Those who needed to know, would know... I cant see it being localised Mike, not with the mahoosive number of wagons and lack of control potentially involved. It's something I've seen in other photos from maybe around 1962 or so, and was also applied at the door end (on the bottom box section); obviously as wagons rusted it wouldnt be so obvious

Looking good Duck, how is the flaking achieved? I'm not sure but I think it's something to do with tyre profiling

Interesting formation, two Fruit Ds plus two BR CCTs up front.

I've always understood it to be 'non passenger-carrying coaching stock', as per Mike's post above

Previous thread, confirming last (known) uses and dates.

Over the last few years I've throttled back a bit on my detailing but that's something I still do when practical. FWIW I also use flattened staples. Good man They're too thick; too many people IMO build a kit as it comes, without looking at a prototype photo Sometimes it's the interaction of wheel and bearing, swapping the wheelset onto another wagon can sort it (or at least minimise it). But the tyre-on-plastic composite construction is rarely as reliable as a machined wheel like a Romford.

Cheers for that Adrian I'd have to up my game if I was modelling in 7mm though, those textures are excellent. As you say, it can actually be easier to produce something heavily rusted. Most of the moderate rusting I see on 16 tonners suffers from being there in isolation - it's often large 'cowpatches', without any toning down of the background panel or any light flecks and scrapes to give it context.

I think I can see the ribs over the end door on that second wagon, and a slight gap between the door and the crossmember over it on the nearest one - dont forget if they're rebodied minerals, they wont have top flap doors. That said, tipplers were sometimes used for scrap, particularly from the mid 80s

Not sure what you mean here Matt? - the kit is fine as it comes for an early Blue Spot, and both early and late pattern vans were used as SPVs (although the late builds did generally last a bit longer). If you remove the roof ribbing and renumber it, it'll be spot on. The blue looks fine too

Agreed Nick - but modellers at large clearly do imagine it to be so (and a cynical man might say there's an element of spin that can be used there ) Again agreed, I do understand that. It's essentially just another way of measuring which has the potential to be more correct, but isnt automatically so: So despite this more rigorous specification, the cab corners still slipped through the net. I'm not sniping BTW, just again pointing out the potential for error - it's a useful illustration of the pratfalls that can affect any manufacturer.