halfwit

Looks good James. The swords might be available as spares from Judith Edge, I picked up a couple from their trade stand once. What have you used for the headlamp lens? Paul.

Another aspect of preserved lines which I don't think has been touched on here yet is the line being used for stock testing. The Ecclesbourne Valley Railway near me is used for testing on-track plant and London Underground battery locos. Other lines have been used by industrial loco manufactorers for testing, Alan Keef testing new locos on the Leighton Buzzard springs to mind and I know the bigger manufactorers have done the same. More modelling possiblities there perhaps but a lot care and thought needs to be taken to keep such operation feasible.

One more thing, if your thinking of wasp stripes (not that difficult with transfers, patience and perseverence win the day) don't fit your buffers until after they're done and varnished as buffers tend to get in the way... Paul.

A slightly radical solution... It would appear looking at the photos that the buffer bases help clip the body in place. I would be tempted to remove all of them and find a different way of fixing the body in place. Then I would use plasticard to fill in the end of the bufferbeam flush (it would be easier to make the cut out in the b/b square first rather than cut out an odd shape in plasticard) and mount the buffers to the bufferbeam rather than the chassis. A bit of filler should disguise the join. This is what George Dent did with his, although in his article he didn't remove the buffer bases but the ends of the chassis. Paul.

The etchings were cleaned up using a file (gently!), 3 sided scraper and, most importantly, a fibreglass burnishing brush. Once everything was cleaned I could start thinking about re-assembly. As before I started with the footplate, which revealed a bit of a problem; (Note the Gibson sprung buffers, these come with square bases which need to be filed rectangular). The lower part of the bufferbeams had been filed back too narrow for the re-constructed frames. So I cut pieces of scrap etch to make a repair panel, cut the offending lower part of the bufferbeam away and soldered the new section in place. Like this; Then the bufferbeams can be soldered in place; The lower section was made too wide so they can be filed down to the exact width of the frames, in the photo above the end nearest the camera is finished and the other end is waiting to be done. I don't intend going into much detail about the rest of the build as it's been covered before, unless its specific to this loco like the above.

Nicely done. Funny how these little jobs are so satisfying once done yet so easy to put off.

Interesting detail shots there. Might make a few people take notice, scrapyards are difficult to do realistically.

Because its difficult to get 'right' without looking like a 'train set' (nothing wrong with train sets of course!) by having too many big shiny locos and too-clean stock? Most preserved lines have sidings full of rusty locos and stock waiting for a better day, thats a lot of weathering! And a lot of societies have a number of ex-industrials, mostly only available as kits. For non-runners the old Airfix (now Dapol) locos can be used, just dont forget to replace those moulded handrails. I do think that non-running plastic kits should be detailed to the same standard (or as near as) as the rest of the stock.

Nice work so far. Don't worry too much about the damaged bodywork, nothing a bit of filler won't put right. And anyway some industrial locos tended to fit up a few dents. Neat work carving the horn off.

I'm sworn to secrecy.... B)

Taking a short break from the Husky I'm tackling this; An A1 Models Ruston 48DS. It belongs to a fellow RMWebber who, after seeing my Ruston at the Derby members day, asked if I could build a new chassis for his and detail the body like my own effort. This one has some damage to the LH cab side; It came with alternative cab sides which the owner had originally glued over the top. I decided to strip the cab down (the roof was coming off anyway so I could fit a securing nut inside); Then I got a bit carried away and, with permission, stripped the body right down, apart from the bonnet which can stay as it is. In the photo below the bonnet and footplate, frame sides, buffers and bufferbeams are awaiting cleaning up. The cab sides/front/rear and roof are already done. On the left can be seen the new chassis and the Gibson wheels, ready for the motor and gearbox to arrive. The tool at the back is a solder sucker used to suck up hot solder, given to me about 25 years ago by my grandmother. There was some remnants of epoxy in the cab which made some rather unpleasant fumes! I've not done much modelling recently, here's why: Thats Toby, a Cocker Spaniel pup, who arrived here 10 days ago.

Individual slates may be boring but its definitely worth the effort in 7mm, that roof looks really good. And I like the rust effect as well, did you use Maskol under the top coat in the end?

Hi, A very interesting project. Just wondering what gauge the track is?

When using soft jaws you'll need to find a piece of round stock smaller than the wheel dia. for the jaws to grip before trying to bore the jaws out. Run the lathe at a slower speed than you normally would as you'll be taking intermittent cuts, and beware of taking the edge off the tool. Make sure the tool is secure in the holder and that the overhang is at a minimum, which is always good practice anyway. I always tightened the chuck using the same position/pinion. When I worked as a turner I had about half a dozen sets of soft jaws to choose from, I rarely used hard jaws.

And see also 'BR Electric Locos In 4mm Scale' (Model Railway Constructor Planbook 3) for a more detailed sketch.

I'm not sure if these are any use to you but 'British Rail Main Line Electric Locos' by Marsden and Fenn (OPC) has a drawing of the pantograph and roof although its probably not detailed enough for you.

There's probably quite a few of us with mtb parts knocking about, I've taken perfectly good bits off bikes in the quest for a lighter/faster/more comfortable bike. Paul.

Hi Missy 1. When unemployed I lived on a diet of tinned mackeral, rice, baked potato's and beans. Cheap but no fun! 2. Trying to find a decent bike shop is difficult these days, they seem to be either top end and a bit elitist or bargain basement junk with clueless staff! 3. ...no but the results speak for themselves! Top quality work as ever. Paul. (One day I'll try this 2mm malarkey!)

I used to machine 316 occasionally and can confirm that is a pig! Tipped tools are a must, as is plenty of coolant. Cast stainless was worse though...

Some nice painting there. I'm glad to see that the Slaters figures will be in an enclosed coach - they always look a bit flat to me. Paul.

I think the track looks pretty good as it is, it looks like a little used track rather than one in regular use. One thing that I'd be tempted to add is a few hollows with puddles in them. Paul.

Hi David, Thanks for the comment. Somehow I reckon your kit cupboard is a bit of a treasure trove! Mine's getting that way... One thing that will appear on here at some stage will be a Nigel Lawton O+K. I'm sure we'll bump into each other at a show sometime. Paul.

Would it be possible to drill though the gear coller and axle, say .7mm, and glue a piece of rod in the hole to lock the gear and axle together? Paul.