Daddyman

Nice to see we're getting this thread going again! The first photo I don't know, but the second is definitely near Chollerton, a bit north of Hexham. If you have Robotham's "On the Waverley Route" (Ian Allan) there's a picture of it with a Scott crossing on page 57.

I doubt it too, but how weird that it's so close in so many ways (said by someone who knows nothing about pre-grouping coaches).

I came across a couple of slides that I took with my dad of Longwitton, I suspect in the early 1980s. The quality is nothing special, not compared to some of the beautiful images on here. But the details they show are very valuable - hence my posting. Having said that, the first one is a fairly typical view from the bridge and probably shows nothing much except to those who like trees: But the next one is a real find, as it shows the grounded coach body in detail I've never seen before: Note that the horizontal planking/slats that covered the lower half of the sides in most photos of the station when in use have been removed, revealing the panelling below. I idly googled something like "panelled carriage" and got this: http://www.worsleyworks.co.uk/Images/LTSE/1.jpg I ordered one and the panelling looks absolutely spot-on, even on the ends, with the same 7 panels: It also has the same three-point curve on the windows and panels, with the door windows slightly wider than the ones either side, as on the prototype. It's certainly close enough for the model, but it raises the question of whether an LTSR carriage could have made its way up to rural Northumberland. Or was there some generic style that the NB and the LTSR shared?

Sorry, just found this thread. Re the N2 at Hawick, it clearly did do some work as it received a replacement boiler while there, as a perusal of photos on Railscot will show, and as Yeadon confirms: moved to Hawick 11/2/57; boiler replaced 19/4/58; condemned from Hawick 4/11/59.

I'm the same. I bought two - one to do LNER for my dad, and one BR for me. I thought I'd seen all the nasty surprises that Parkside wagons had to offer. You're right that I should have done one side first, and then the ends, but I did both sides first, and then found that although I'd got the corners chamfered correctly to meet (at the risk of losing the vertical as the end moulds are so flexible), the base plate was both too long and too wide. I think on the next one I'll shave a bit off all sides of the base before starting. I'm afraid I jumped on it rather energetically before binning it! That was the only modelling pleasure I had last night after I'd earlier managed to de-solder down to its many component parts the scratchbuilt steam reverser for my Q5. I'll keep the steps from the van and hopefully they can be used on the earlier (but equally ... "challenging") Parkside model of the earlier LNER brake van. Thanks for the tip re Dan.

I have a D&S NER footbridge kit, but it has some of the castings missing. Am I right in thinking that the owner (Dan Pinnock is it?) is still contactable and sometimes has castings left over from the good old days? My father bought the kit 30-odd years ago; I've snaffled it out of the loft and would like to get it finished for his 81st. P.S you're my hero Mr Wealleans for getting that new Parkside Toad built up - mine went in the bin last night; I couldn't get the gap at the corners to close up. I think the trick may be to build the sides and ends off the base plate and then file that to fit inside once they've set. I feel an email to them coming on. Have you written to them at all?

That's putting it mildly! I'm just finishing an NER horse box - despite the best efforts of the instructions....

Hello, Nice work! Why do you say "reasonable fine" overlays? I ask because I'm considering one day getting a cutter, but your post makes me wonder if there are limitations to the machine that your photos don't show; the overlays look near perfect - is that not the case? (I realise these limitations may have been mentioned but I haven't yet got through all 77 pages of the thread!)

Thanks for clarification. I was aware that the latest MRJ and the Rice book would answer my question, but at the same time don't want them influencing me, and would rather consult them further down the line. Certainly no procrastination on my part (I don't even own an armchair and need no excuse to do some modelling - I spent all yesterday scratchbuilding 4 sanding operating rods for a 4mm J36); I just wanted to be clear if this competition is something that fits my interests.

What actually is a cameo layout? I know the book will explain that and I'm happy to buy it as I'm extremely well-disposed towards Mr Rice, but I don't want to buy it just yet as I think it might make my ideas run on certain Rice-like lines, as Clive Mortimer argued earlier. Can anyone supply a working definition of a cameo layout? Another question, re post 3, I don't see where it says in the rules that one has to show one's work in progress.

Many thanks for that, Jol. It's a similar idea to that used on the 52F Models ex-NBR C15.

Interesting build. Do you or anyone else have pictures of the pivoted front end on the BM chassis? There are no pics on their website.

Very useful to have the pitfalls of the Parkside kit outlined - many thanks.

Absolutely right, Tony. Yeadon's own photos disprove his claim - 62002 and 62018 are both shown in Volume 18 with lights removed. But then is it actually "his" claim? Am I right in thinking he only actually wrote some of the volumes, the rest being compiled from his notes?

I have a Bradwell one spare [edit: lubricator, I mean] - you'd have to source a wheel though. Will you be at York on Saturday? I could hand it over then. For s.box door handles, I always make my own: take a piece of 0.6mm capillary tube, and drill two holes through the walls of the tube at 90 degrees to each other; those holes will then accept handles of .3mm wire. Nicking the tube wall with a small triangular file will help position the drill bit. Below is a photo of a pair of handles, which might clarify what I mean. Note, though, that I made the stem too thick - 0.9 instead of 0.6, so this is a reject. Note also that the handles are staggered (the photo doesn't show this) and the end needs plugging - I didn't do that on this one as it's a reject.

Clearly not - see my photo above.

Very interesting, thanks. How are the etches on this kit? I got a tender from Caley Coaches (not Kits) a few months ago and there's a "shadow" on the etched parts - that is, every edge and aperture has a half-mill or so half-etch that follows the line of the aperture. The problem affects the top and right of apertures on one half of paired parts (valances, frames), and left and bottom of the other half of the pair. As can be seen in the photo, the etches can't be flipped as then you'd lose the half-etch locator for the steps.

Sorry to clog up the thread, but sometimes "like" is not enough.

I used to spend an hour and a half on one-piece NER handrails too. Then Dave Bradwell taught me to do them in two halves, joined within the body of the top lamp iron. Now I spend ten minutes on them!

I haven't seen this one mentioned: https://www.railscot.co.uk/imageenlarge/imagecomplete.php?id=58591 Weird yellow stripe on the cab side - so weird I almost think it has to be something else.

Was up at Howes yesterday and there seems to be a revival of sorts going on: the Railmatch paints, which they've been stocking in a desultory fashion for a few months were mostly fully stocked; they started carrying Expo tools again, only a couple of months after I asked and was told they didn't keep them any more; they even had superglue in; there is quite a large case of S/H stuff in the middle of the shop unit, with much more stuff than they ever had when they were trading as a model railway shop proper. True, it was mostly southern, but the prices seemed good - that small new Heljan tank engine (13xx?) for £79 and an M7 for £50.

I feel your pain. I swore off whitemetal kits years ago, but then your thread made me think perhaps something could be made of them after all. So I got a DJH J35 a few months back. I spent three evenings trying to file the boiler round and then realised it would have been a lot faster to roll a new one in brass. The w/m footplate has valances of 1mm depth instead of 1.5, so will be binned, after I decide whether it's too much trouble to try to save the splashers; and the w/m flare around the tender doesn't have a representation of the curved corners at the front, so is also heading binwards. Basically, everything that is w/m in the kit has to be replaced with scratchbuilt parts in brass. (To be fair, most of the brass parts in the kit are rubbish too, though I have got a reasonable set of tender frames out of my 95-quid investment.) I am now, needless to say, back in barge-pole mode with w/m kits.

Thanks, didn't know that and you're absolutely right. Interesting that as well as the left-leaning papers, even the Telegraph still refers to him as "Paypal founder" when they mention his support for Trump, when his links to Payal are now irrelevant. It's lazy reporting and my inattentive reading led me into the trap. Thanks for the correction - though I would be careful with the term "self-righteous" - it's often used by the morally lazy to attack those who are worried by the new fascism. Seems like it's safe to cross PP off my sh*tlist?

I had something similar a couple of years ago over the NER hopper wagons. I paid via the website and then he told me "me machine's broke" but that it would be fixed soon. I gave him a few months then got back in touch to hear "me machine's still broke". I asked would he supply the wagons without the axleboxes, as that was the part he couldn't make, and he agreed. Another month and nothing. Then I asked for a refund and again he agreed. Another month or two and nothing. As with all people like this, I only got anywhere with him once I swore at him - money was back in my account the next day. But then in the past year or so my dad ordered the hoppers, which the website still shows as for sale; not being a user of rmweb and not listening to me ever, he was unaware of the issues with supply from Coopercraft. He hadn't used paypal so refund was tricky (but a small price to pay for not giving business to Trump supporters - paypal, not Coopercraft). We went to the bank in the end and they gave us a number to ring to get the money back.

Does this count? I really did try to use the Hornby pug, honest! And in fact I'll use the smokebox door and maybe even the safety valve cover.