James90012

Speaking of which, I've searched most of the regular transfer sites but have I missed anyone who is doing the transfers for 87002 in Porterbrook purple?

That is shocking for a new model...

The bogie cover comes off very easily, you just need to slide a thin small screwdriver on the inside of the frame - or potentially I think you can insert the screwdriver into a small gap on the side. It might 'ping' though so make sure you're somewhere it can bounce to! This video on YouTube was very useful for me - though you won't need to take the PCB out or the motor, just the bogie. .

Very strange timing - I just yesterday had the same problem with my 56013. I'll summarise what I did but would also appreciate views of others in case I have missed anything. My 56 had the same symptoms - buzz but no movement. The issue with mine was apparently a common issue where the grease Hornby use at the top of the bogies seizes after periods without use. The main thing you need to do is to take the body off, then unclip the plastic on top of the bogie tower - this came off really easily with a slight prying with a screwdriver. Once removed you will be able to take the bogie out - you don't need to go through the bottom of the bogie. Once removed and unclipped you will likely see the gold piece which connects to the gears in the bogie. Mine was covered in green, solid grease so could not be moved. This slides off quite easily as a single piece - the grey metal squares hold it in place but are not glued. The grease on mine was solid though between the metal square and the gold worm(?) but a soak in warm water with washing up liquid softened it a little. It is a nightmare to get every bit of grease off. Once clean and dried, I put it all together and voila it ran very smoothly and silently. I reapplied some oil which seemed to run off (squeaking occurred after 30 minutes) so would appreciate views on a suitable replacement grease.

The Manchester / Potteries area I'm afraid!

Very much looking forward to the MK4s, I'm now all-in for a GNER set. Would have preferred a Mallard set but as I'm modelling the WCML anyway, it's neither here nor there!

Hi all, We're lucky in OO with multiple new Cargowaggon models arriving soon with the Kernow IZA, Revolution IWA and re-release of the Heljan/EFE cargowaggon. I'm trying to work out what a reasonable formation might look like for the 2000-2010 period on the WCML. Is it a case of mixing wagons together or are there certain dos and don'ts? If anyone knows of an online reference that would be great to know! Thanks James

The Hornby GNER 90024 models always used to reach strong interest on eBay, I'm sure a super detailed one would be popular. Your work certainly has peaked my interest in what is my favourite class - created a long wishlist of locos!

Having a date for the Virgin MK2s is great news.

Good news to have a date for the 20/3s, I think this is the first time a date has been provided? Expect these to be very popular.

87002 in Porterbrook would be top of the tree for me!

The main thing I'm hoping for the 91 is it not to use the outdated wiring approach used on the 87. In some respects it's easier as the blunt end lights will likely never be used by most people and so could just be disconnected. That and to update the MK4s, something the quality and price range of MK3SD would seem to be a good comprise. It's a no go from me until the coaches are confirmed!

Replaced with DCC80s and all works!

Thanks- the points are the start of the fiddle yard so face the same way.

Update: worked temporarily now I'm back to square 1 and I have 2 points wired up the same way with the same problem.

Thanks Ray - your post got me thinking and I've managed to fix it. My wiring from the CDU to the relay was wrong, I swapped the positive and negative and hurrah it works!

Hi Ray - tried that but it just swaps the short to the other route. So if the blue wire is connected the train runs well with the point set straight. If I switch to the brown wire the curved route works well but the straight route now shorts.

Hello all I think I've bitten off more than I can chew. I have an electrofrog point which I'm looking to power with a Peco surface point motor. I've modified the point as per DCC electrofrog instructions and used insulfrog joiners, and then wired to a BUS. I've then wired in a relay (GM 500) to change the frog polarity with a switch etc. However I've got a strange problem, when I run a loco I get a short but only when a loco runs on one of the routes set and hits the point V. If I swap the wires around on the relay, the route that shorts switches. Any thoughts or diagrams I can cross check the work against? James

Returned to these today to try the above and it's got even worse as the I've now lost at least one of the springs. Guessing replacement springs are not easy to find either?

Just so I understand, for the upcoming 87001 model is it going to be possible to rename it to Stephenson both sides as per 2003/4 condition or are there other changes that would need to be made?

Central Trains would be great, or the North Western RR Green Stripe livery.

3 days left for a Virgin 87 to appear - has anyone heard any different?

Advice time I tried to change the couplings and the springs ended up out of place. Getting them back in was tricky but now the small screws that hold the seating plastic to the chassis aren't gripping. Has anyone else had this issue and recommend a solution? It's critical because the seating plastic keeps the coupling mechanism in place, otherwise it hangs low. These really are such poor build quality, I ordered Hornbys latest virgin MK3s because I was so disheartened with these. Thanks in advance

Agreed, and also no problems with my Intercity 90. Superb model - 10/10 from me but that might be as I'm a bit of a 90 fan!

I'd quite like to see 45112 in it's early 00s main line condition, good memories of that one on the MML!