zarniwhoop

Mike, thanks for that.

I suspect this was the only thing of mine with missing photos.  There were one or two recent posts after the (last?) outage, but I'm fairly sure I had reinstated it or them (I don't often post images these days).

ĸen

Nope, only shows the second image, I suppose that means one at a time

I just realised these old entries have lost their photos, thought it was only recent stuff.

Tried reinstating the first one (a 750-pixel wide jpeg)  but it comes up huge and at the top of the entry. Giving up.

I'm all in favour of setting the area by using location-specific buildings. Looking at the 'Recent Entries' links, I can't see when this started, so I'll ask here: which period is this going to be ? (I'm shocked at the lack of a third rail, but if you are branching off a non-electrified line than I guess that makes sense, and anyway, "rule 1").

Best,

?en

I first became attracted to the idea of CDUs for peco solenoids as a spectator at the local exhibition! There was a 009 layout which I found interesting, but every time the points operated there was a very disconcerting buzz. When I built my own HOe test layout I found out where the buzz came from. Adding a CDU from Gaugemaster (other manufacturers are available, apart from possibly-dubious ebay purchases) solved that - a nice solid, and short, click.

Useful comments on the current rating of the switches.

Thanks for that .  The triangle looks good.

Looks good. Any idea who supplies transfers for the inverted triangle ?

ken

Glad you have it under control - it's not the cost of the wood that matters, it's the time and cost of building everything else on the layout.

Put some sand bags on extensions of the end braces, so that people stumble into the sandbag before they trip on the supports ?

ken

Board supports are one of the areas I will need to address, so in the meantime I'm always keen to see what people are using. Is it stable if you "accidentally" lean against the board ?

I haven't been following this, but the whole thing looks about 2ft wide. In the central part I would worry about the front and back legs moving separately from each other ? At the ends, I worry that it might not be resistant to a front-to-back knock - there seems to be a lot of scope for the end legs to form a long lever on a narrow base. Hope I'm wrong, but best to ask at an early stage.

ken

Loved it, but sorely tempted to click on "Report Entry" - I might even get access to a razor blade if I do that.

ken [ edited to use ASCII 'k' instead of what rendered as '?' in my name ]

Actually, only the B4 bogies were misassembled - what I'd bought were rejects (because of the misassembly), the B5s only come as kits (without wheels).

It looks as if you might have used the *faded* yellow (452, rather than 202). But, looking at the Howes site to check the numbers, I see there is also a 210, and perhaps others.<br><br>ĸen<br><br>[ edited to remove the spurious '&nbsp;' created when I did my normal 'two spaces between sentences'typing. ]<br>

Thanks for the thoughts on BR(S) buildings green - yet more shades to consider if I ever get a 60s layout built.

ĸen

Delightful. Thanks for sharing this.

ĸen

For texture between the rails on my HOe layout (angled level crossing on a German-style cobbled street) I used Slaters' embossed sheet - thin enough to lay on the sleepers without needing to be sanded down first, and below the rail head so I can clean it with a track rubber.

But, it looks like your infill is there for the long term. Should come up nicely in a tarmac or concrete colour after you've sanded it (I'd use some of those foam sanding pads in a comparatively fine grade - done that where I laid the original road in polyfilla).

??en

Definitely worth continuing (pretty please) - I'm still running in some motor bogies, then I need to get started on my DC Kits 3D while I psyche myself up to have a go at my MJT 4-CIG (and I need different motor bogies for that).

Personally, I find it *very* difficult to find what I'm interested in among the blogs, and I don't usually comment unless I think I've got something useful to say. On the previous forum, I could follow the titles, here it seems to be mostly guesswork as to which blogs will interest me. No doubt we'll all work out a way of living with this version in the end.

??en

Big! I like the ideas, but the space required is frightening.

Then again, I want to do a tailchaser layout (I get really annoyed by units that have headcodes at the back - but maybe that's just me), and even for a limited selection of more recent West Coastway trains and only 4 car units I'm still going to end up with at least 12 feet of length (to hold enough different units in the storage), maybe more if they won't go round the trainset curves I plan to use. So, if you can handle that size, may the volts be with you - when push comes to shove I'd much rather see more southern electric and avert my eyes from the rear views.

Good luck!

??en

In my limited experience, painting the rails comes before ballasting - otherwise I get paint on the ballast. Hope your hand is a lot steadier than mine!

??en

If the existing flock is the fine stuff, you can (usually - I'm sure there will always be an exception ) just cover it with PVA and then apply more static grass on top.

??en