57xx

Sounds a bit fanciful to me. If there was enough gap for a ball bearing, however small, to "jam" between the piston and liner, the engine was way beyond bu66ered already. All it would have taken was a magnet on a stick to recover that. I've recovered many a piston circlip with one of those on 2 strokes when they've pinged out and dropped between the crank webs.

I was talking about both sides. It does warp without the foil to support it (the foil is holding the foam in compression, which you can see when peeling off one side only by the way the warp goes). It's not a huge amount but if you have track laid on it, it's very noticeable. Give it a year and you'll see.

Don't peel off the foil, it will twist and warp. I found out the hard way.

Or go one step further and make a holder that fits in your reciprocating saw. I have a velcro strap that holds the tin firmly. 1 minute of shaking in this mixes even the most stubborn tin.

Can you list the coaches from any manufacturer that have got scale height floors? I'd be interested to know how many there are.

I didn't say it's perfect but it looks way better than my 28xx. edit: e.g. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/87/entry-5336-what-can-i-do-with-my-Hornby-nrm-28xx/

That looks really good. Nice to see the insipid green they usually use has been given the boot too.

Far from it. 35 years ago I (along with many others I suspect) was repainting the creamy coloured inside of my Airfix autocoach and giving the passengers below knee amputaions to enable them to sit on the crude seats.

Good to hear you're sorted. I found I've still got 1mm too lol Be useful for future projects here I'm sure.

Disappointing, yes, but still useful. You could add lights or even use them as extra pickups for the loco, especially if someone is running a wonky old Airfix 14xx still. The details looks great, footsteps on the end, interior cab detail and what I can see of the underframe looks light years ahead of what was previously available.

How long would each bit need to be? I have stacks of 1.5mm and 2.5mm T&E in the workshop from an old house rewire, I could get some 10" long pieces into an C5 envelope.

This ^^^ And this ^^^ You really have cracked that wood effect. Looks like you've even included knots on the Diag 9.

No problem. It feels horrible having to point it out, but worth it when it helps someone out, especially like you say before it's painted.

I've been quietly following and enjoying this thread, the kit is going together really well. However... I'm now going to be one of those annoying people who points something out. The top feed looks like it's in the wrong place and should sit further forwards, not inline with the centre of the filler caps. It didn't look quite right to me when I was pondering the pipework routing so had a look for a prototype pic to confirm and found this. http://s144.photobucket.com/user/myfordmatt/media/Buckfast080707/Buckfast08070769.jpg.html

They are a pain, aren't they! The problem is a small discrepancy on the underframe mouldings that gets mirrored on opposite corners when built, doubling the error and wobble. I think I've finally discovered the trick to doing them now though. Before gluing the W iron moulding to the back of the solebar, you need to sparingly trim off the top of the spring hangers so you can get the W irons exactly level. If you don't trim these bits, then the ends of the springs foul on the solebar and don't sit straight. The highlighted bits are where I mean, you can see on the left where I have trimmed them. This is a different Cambrian kit, LNER open, wooden solebar, but the problem and cure is exactly the same.

You done a cracking job with the Jinty, Trevor. Looking forward to seeing the final details added.

Also some wire handrails on the sides at the ends of the coaches. Looking very nice so far.

The only things I can spot are the capping strips and 3 hole wheels on the right. Maybe a different shape door spring?

As always, work to a photo of your prototype!

Build one then You've clearly got the skills for scratchbuilding one. They are pretty dire at responding. I gave up trying to resolve the issues with one of my kits after 18 months, I was wasting too much time chasing them for the missing parts, it was quicker just to order alternate parts from another supplier. I personally think you'd be better of scratchbuilding.

They are indeed, you done a great job with them. Having said that I'm still traumatised from doing the bolts on my LMS D1839 wagon

This look great, I'll have to invest in 1 or 2. I've got a Slaters MR cattle wagon that was supplied with the incorrect underframe but as I got as much chance of getting that corrected as finding some rocking horse manure, I think these would be an excellent substitute.

Lettering is now completed on the other Ratio LNWR wagon. I normally use HMRS Pressfix lettering, but the Ratio kit includes waterslides used here. I was impressed with how Microsol removed any silvering and "melted" the lettering onto the bodywork. You can see how it has sunk into the gaps between the planks and over the strapping. Just weathering required to complete it now.

Just a small update, not a huge amout of modelling has been done recently, I just dip in and out every now and again. I built up a few other kits, these included the Ratio LNWR open wagons and a Cambrian LBSCR open. The 4 plank LNWR open was finished in a late LNWR livery, probably not seen in the 1930s but I fancied something a bit different. Not sure how authentic it is but followed this page for inspiration. The 5 plank coal wagon from the Ratio kit will be finished in LMS livery, it's painted and awaiting lettering. The LBSCR open will be lettered with LBSC, again not my normal era, but see Rule #1. See you in another 6 months!!

I'm part way through building the later version of that van, the C101 kit of D1832A - buffers shanks are the same as your's. They are pretty much the same across the range really, noticed it on a lot of their kits. However I don't find it an issue as all my kits now use either Dart Castings or Lanarkshire Models cast buffers (mainly the later as their range is quite vast!). Much more robust and very nice detail.