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Mikkel

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Everything posted by Mikkel

  1. Great little loco, and it looks really neatly built. Interesting about the plant lead - does that mean all aquarium fish suffer from lead poisoning? :-)
  2. A few more examples here of prototype-inspired short trains for Farthing. These are all a bit unorthodox, as opposed to the more standard formations shown in an earlier entry. PBV - Composite - All Third. Above: The above formation, for instance, illustrates that not all short trains were pulled by tank locos! This train was inspired by a photo on the Warwickshire Railways website, which shows a 2-4-0 3226 class pulling a 4-wheel PBV to dia V5 (or V11?), a 6-wheel compo to dia U16 and a 6-wheel All Third to dia S3 (many thanks to RMwebber "Penrhos 1920" for help with the coach identification). My interpretation also has the V5 and U16, while the S3 has been replaced with an S9. A 3232 class is standing in for the 3226. I have just finished restoring and repainting the U16, which was originally built by Colin Edge. "Toad" - Composite - Brake Third. Above: This formation was inspired by photos on page 69-70 of "GW branchlines: A pictorial survey" by C.W. Judge, which include a 517 class loco hauling a "Toad" goods brakevan and two 4-wheelers (Composite and Brake Third) on the Presteign branch in 1906. It seems to have been a regular sight on that line for several years. Some photos also show the train without the "Toad", giving an even shorter train. Other similar examples are mentioned in this thread (thanks gents!). The Toad seen here is from an old K's kit for the AA3 type. I'm not sure if the metal end and cab sheathing are appropriate for the 1900s, or if they were added later? Autotrailer and PBV. Above: I've always found GWR autotrains a bit boring, but the trailers were sometimes used in interesting combinations. This little train was inspired by a photo on page 31 of "The Lambourn Branch" by Kevin Roberts and Roger Simmonds, which shows an 850 class loco hauling an Autotrailer and a 4-wheel PBV to diagram V2 in the 1900s. Both of the model coaches seen here are second-hand: The trailer is a scratchbuilt oddity picked up some years ago (featuring real glass windows!), depicting one of the gangwayed diagram D types that worked behind railmotors in the Plymouth area. The V2 is another Colin Edge scratch-build, which I have restored and repainted. Although these trains are not exactly mainstream, they all feature that ungodly mix of stock that was quite typical of the GWR around the turn of the century. Good fun to replicate in model form! Note: The GWR would have called a Passenger Brake a "Van". I use the former term here as it seems more intuitive.
  3. Sounds like a good approach. I can recommend small layouts as a way of keeping things manageable. It might still take time to build though (especially if you're a slow modeller like me).
  4. On the first day, Satan created glazing.

    1. Debs.

      Debs.

      Clearly!....or perhaps not.

  5. I recognize the last one, it's a brake van! :-) Seriously though, I got a few of them right, wonderful modelling as ever Missy. The Gaugemaster leaves look very good. Duly noted!
  6. Hi Mike, many thanks :-) Perhaps the City of Truro, SECR C class, Robinson O4 etc can lead the way for RTR models that go even further back? It does seem that there's a market for pre-grouping locos - as long as it's a prototype that's attractive enough for people to buy them even if they don't model that period. I just had another look at your "80 years on the GWR" video. Nice how you've taken it into the post-steam period. I was amazed how authentic the Hornby clerestories look in the black and white shots in the film. Must dig out mine!
  7. Very nice Ian. Those hinges must have been rather fiddly! But then you are used to the 2mm FS stuff!
  8. Hi Nick. Sorry to hear it didn't work out so far. I've never tried this technique with anything other than Vallejo, so I can't speak for the Railmatch ones. Off-hand I would say it must be the type of paint that makes the difference. My base colour is matt (brush-painted Vallejo brown), but that's never given any problems. Will be interested to hear how it turns out with the Vallejo paint. Another theory could be that the surface of sprayed paint is somehow not conducive to this method? Perhaps you could try and see if your mix can flow on other surfaces that are not painted with the Halfords primer? Sorry about the typo for Golden Yellow - now corrected in the post above. The V2 was one of a batch of coaches that I took over from Colin Edge some years ago, more or less scratchbuilt by him as far as I know. They have been sitting in my drawer for a long time awaiting restoration (new rooves, stepboards, various underframe detail, wheels, windows etc) and a repaint. I'm modifying a U16 compo right now that is giving headaches because it seems to have been built using a Russell drawing that has since been proved faulty - those Russell books have a lot to owe for both good and bad!
  9. Hi Ian, interesting that you use it too. Doing the framing first would make sense, must try that. Happy 2012 modelling to you too!
  10. Wanted to make a new year's resolution that would make me a better man. But the list got too long... :-)

  11. I'm repeating myself, but the combination of mass, power and detail is so convincing. And it can do 4WD too! ;-)
  12. Hi Frank, happy new year! I know what you mean about letting the surplus stuff go. It can really help ease the mind and make things simpler/more focussed.
  13. Rob: The Vallejo shades I use for coaches are: * Coach brown: 70822 German Cam. Black Brown * Cream: 3 parts 70948 Golden Yellow + 1 part 70837 Pale Sand * Venetian red (droplights and bolections): 70814 Burnt Cad. Red (with a dash of 70822) * White (rooves): 70918 Ivory I have a feeling that my cream is a little too yellow. A 2:2 mix of the Golden Yellow and Pale Sand might be more appropriate - but since I have a number of coaches painted by now I hesitate to change my formula :-) Will / David: I don't know if this would work in N/2mm. Factor no. 3 above might be an issue for smaller scales, because the depth of the panels might not be sufficient to retain the flowing paint? Wouold be very interested to see your results though, if you try it out. David, you're right that the some of the finer details of the GWR pre-grouping livery is tricky (must be even worse in 2mm!). I have chickened out and use a simplified version. There are examples of this (and the end result of the panelling technique) in the second and fourth photos in this entry: http://www.rmweb.co....grouping-stock/
  14. My coaches are brush-painted, and I have sometimes been asked how I paint the panels. This video shows it. Be warned though that this is one of those bodged (hopefully not botched!) techniques I seem to often end up using - there are definitely more "correct" ways of doing it! Edit: A bit more info as a supplement to the video: In my experience, there are four key factors that effect results of this technique: (1) Using the right paint. The Vallejo paint is very richly pigmented and dries quickly and evenly. It can therefore take the dilution while still needing only one application. Having said that, it is possible to repeat the process with a second layer if necessary, though I rarely do it. But everything must be completely dry first! 2) Getting the mix right. It has to be just "runny" enough to flow easily to the edges, but not so much that it dries up thinly. As mentioned in the video, something close to a milky substance - although perhaps a little thicker than that. 3) Good sharp edges on the moulds of the coach, which will hold and "guide" the flow of the paint. Etched brass is particularly good, but plastic like the Ratio sides has also worked well for me. 4) Good brushes - as always. The two black ones below (3/0 and 1) are the type I use in applying the paint in the video. The yellow one in the middle is a cheapo thing used for mixing the paint and water thoroughly. The blue ones are quality broad brushes (8 and 12), used for brushpainting the brown sides in several thin layers, to get smooth sides with no visible brush strokes.
  15. Am thinking of investing in 4mm Welsh coal. Market is looking good.

  16. Thanks gents :-) It made for some light relief while waiting for various components to arrive from the UK. (I can't fathom the mail from Britain these days. Two parcels are sent the same day - one arrives within 5 days, the other takes 3 weeks?)
  17. Substance and presence indeed, both the building and the blog! (Btw: I was trying to find your past entries with the old station building to compare, but couldn't. Maybe I'm the only one, but I often use the "archives" link in the "My Blog Links" box to find people's past entries. Perhaps worth adding to your index?)
  18. Merry Christmas Frank. What a year you've had. But good to hear that you and your family are spending quality time together. Just five good minutes together are worth an awful lot, as you'll know. And thanks for sharing Pen-Y-Bont here and in the public, it's a great layout which has that illusive "right feel" to it, I think.
  19. I think "ramschackle" is the appropriate word here! Very nicely replicated, Stu. Interesting that you mention your "driving theme at the moment". I find I need that too to keep things moving forward, rather than doing a bit here and there.
  20. Everything looking very good! The brass gates are delicious, almost a pity to paint them. I agree that the bridal mesh might foul up the very detailed look. I really like the look of the slightly hollow/cavernous road. Modern day drivers wouldn't be happy to drive on something like that!
  21. The wood looks very convincing Frank. I'm off to Amazon to order some coffee stirrers. Many thanks for the tip!
  22. Hi Chris, lovely stuff! I agree very much on the risk of overpopulating layouts, especially rural stations as you say.The horse-drawn by the crossing gates is particularly well placed, I think.
  23. Hello Ian, great to hear from you again! Very sad to hear about your mother also so passing away. These must be difficult and challenging times indeed. I hope the rest will do you some good. Congratulations on the house move though, quite impressive that you've come so far in 7 months. It took us quite a bit longer to get that far last time we moved (We've lived in our current house for 6 years, but the other day a stranger came to pick up something and said "Ah, I see you've just moved in" !). Layout room is looking very good. Is the sink also in the modelling room? if so, quite a luxury. Am really looking forward to seeing Upton Dene develop further.
  24. Thanks Ian, I have now asked them at Alan Gibson, and their domes are not polished either. I might consider your approach though, just need to get a good mini drill first.
  25. Kapow! That's what I call setting the scene. Brilliant.
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