amdaley

You could wire the power feed for the 2nd tortoise through one of the switches of the first tortoise.

That way if the first tortoise isn't set correctly you can't throw the 2nd tortoise ?

While looking around for prices on the Z21 system I spotted this on Scograil ?

**  Please note we have had to put a temporary hold on selling the latest version of the back Z21
as a hardware upgrade has introduced a fault with some of the decoder reading.  As soon as
ROCO fix the issue, we will put these back on sale.  Sorry for any inconvenience.  ****

Anyone throw any light on this ?

I can only suggest that the taking out of the decoder had something to do with it. Could have been a dirty pin or socket in the decoder socket of the loco.

Try the first decoder in the Mallard again & see if the problem returns ?

Sometimes particular decoders don't work well with some locos for some reason ?

Hi Everyone.

I was hoping that the Z21 would be able to run a loco on the main / layout while programming a loco on a separate program track at the same time but Vecchio has said otherwise.

Thanks Vecchio for going to the trouble of checking that out for me.

Is there any system which allows a loco to run on the main while programming another loco on a program track at the same time ?

Even though the Roco app allows two control panels on screen at the same time the basic software underneath is no different to my NCE Power Pro 5 amp system which must be 10 years old now.

The NCE system has programming on the main as well.

The big advantage of the Z21 seems to be the graphics ?

This is not a criticism of Roco, just to say that despite the advances in technology underneath nothing has advanced that much ? 

EDIT: Further thought came to mind.

If you plug a handheld controller into the front of the Z21 or use a wireless throttle with the Z21 do they switch off as well when go to the program track using the Roco app ?

Tony.

OK, checked it. If one engine is running and another one is on the programming track, the z21 switches off the track voltage while it is reading or writing to the programming track. This means if you have whatever train is running, it will stop while a programming command is given. 

 

Hope this helps

Vecchio

Thanks Vecchio.

Just the information I was looking for.

Tony.

Have not tried yet but can do tonight - I expect only the program track to be switched off. If you can wait - answer at 17:30....

Cheers Vecchio.

Much obliged.

Regards.

Tony.

Hi Everyone.

I have a question regarding programming on the Z21.

If If I have a loco running in on a rolling road can I program another loco on a program track at the same time or will the Z21 turn off the track power while I am using the program track ?

Thanks everyone.

I currently have mixed views....

 

I've placed a lot of orders with Hatton's over the years and had no issues, but one thing I've been guilty of is buying locos and immediately putting them away into storage, for the day that I "get round to" building my layout....

 

Anyway, that day came recently, so once I had track down I started running locos. At this time, I discovered issues with Heljan's Class 14 and 17 models via the internet, so was wary of checking out those particular locos first.

 

First, the Class 17, after finding this forum and reading up on the issues. Sure enough, tight wormshaft bearings on the drive towers causing high current drain, dismantled and resolved, all back together and sound installed, job done.

 

Next, the 14.... opened the box, to find a loco with broken steps, headcodes cut from the sheet and already installed, glue marks on the body at the horn blocks and replacement etched cabside running numbers fitted! Oh, and it ran like a bag of bolts, with two pickups bent out of shape as well!! Not what I expected. Now, it's a number of years since I bought it, so I knew there was no question of any warranty, so I decided (with the help of info on this forum) to resolve the running issues myself. This I did, and now have a good running model, which I have installed sound into (with a degree of difficulty!).

 

I decided I would email Hattons and touch base, explaining the situation, as this had actually been bought as a new item....  various emails later, people not wanting to believe me that I had bought it "new", someone else talking about "damage" when it was actually modifications, and a steadfast refusal to acknowledge that something had gone wrong their end.... at one point I was more or less called a liar by one of their staff, which really angered me! Sadly, I don't have the original purchase docs as it was an internet purchase that would have been saved on the hard drive of my previous computer, which went to the big silicon valley in the sky about 2 years ago, haha. I am absolutely convinced that I was accidentally sent someone else's returned item as a new one, by mistake.

 

Lessons learned, 1. check everything on receipt. 2. print and keep paperwork. 3. don't trust a retailer just because they are big and have been around for a long time!  

 

This was my first ever occasion that I felt the need to contact Hatton's about anything I have ever purchased from them, and in all honestly it leaves a slightly bitter feeling towards buying from them again in the future!

I understand how you might feel but to expect a retailer to take action after a few years is asking a bit much.

The moral of the story is to always check everything when it comes even if you only hold a couple of wires to the wheel rims.

A very handy item to have is a rolling road so that when you get a new loco you can give it a quick run before putting it back in its box again.

You can buy a Hornby rolling road for about £50.

Try a contact glue like Bostik or Evostick.

Use isopropyl alcohol.

Cheap & readily available.

I use the household vacuum cleaner.

Its a Miele but it has variable suction.

If you're working on baseboards or cutting wood you can have high suction but if you are doing scatter material the suction can be turned way down so that you don't pull up all your scenery.

Ah yes, whoops! I’ve got a fly zapper in the BrewShed where I was working, gives good atmospheric lighting!

What lighting system did you use in the coaches Peter ?

Cheers.

How?

Typical Santa.

Late again 

So hard to get good help these days.

How were the pickups fixed before they fell off ?

If adhesive then use something like Bostik or Evostik contact adhesive.

Make sure to clean the surfaces to be glued first with ipa or similar.

Have you cleaned the track ?

Hi

 

i must admit that crossed my mind as well, but the model was straight out of the box, although it has now been washed when I removed the Klear with a diluted ammonia solution.

 

Im just very reluctant to try it agin incase I have the same problem, as the B1 will be weathered I might just seal the decals with a matt varnish spray on this occasion.

 

Regards

 

David

The model would have been handled by whoever packed it & their hands could have been quite greasy from handling other items.

I would just use a spray can varnish or use the brush to coat it.

Hi

 

Does anyone have any explanations as to the problem I have recently had using Johnson's Klear?

 

I have a small amount left in a Bottle of Klear, the old original formula that was discontinued some years ago, my bottle is at least six years old.

 

I have recently changed the identity of a new Hornby B1 and wanted to apply a coat of clear to the tender sides and locomotive body at the same time sealing the new Fox Transfers.

 

When I applied the Klear with and half inch flat brush it went onto the plastic like oil onto water is the best description and left areas uncovered.

 

I have used Klear many times in the past on many of my models and never experienced this before, I had to remove it all using a diluted ammonia solution which also removed all my cab and tender decals.

 

Any ideas why this happened on this particular model.

 

Regards

 

David 

I can only suggest that the plastic was dirty or had hand grease on it.

Wast it thoroughly in warn soapy water & try again.

No, its not adjustable!

But adding a car reversing lamp rated at 21watt 12volts in series to one of the two DCC feed wires going to the RLM could stop the main system 'seeing' the short?  For the small cost of the lamp and two pieces of wire IMO its well worth a trial.

Would that then make the GM unit trip ?

It’s the beginners 2Amp system, which I’ve not been able to find out if there’s a way of reducing the sensitivity when it comes to tripping

Can you reduce the sensitivity of the GM auto reverser ?

Just a standard NCE Procab.

 

I’ve called Gaugemaster directly, agree that they offer a very useful advice service. The section is complicated by a dual-gauge crossing which I have only just rewired so it can flip between standard and narrow, which GM thought might be responsible. I’ll have a fiddle around and see what I can achieve based on what they said.

I think Brian has hit it with the GM unit being a relay based unit.

If your loco runs correctly on the main section of your layout & runs correctly inside the insulated reverse section then the GM unit should change the track polarity when the loco moves from one section to the other unless its too slow to react & your NCE system kicks in first.

If that's the case then you will have to get a solid state reversing unit like the PSX here http://www.dccspecialties.com/products/powershield_x.htm

Incidentally is it a 2 amp Power Cab or a 5 amp Power Pro system that you have ?

Hi, I’m currently working part of my layout which forms one side of a triangle. I followed the instructions for where the red and yellow wires go and engines run correctly between the insulated joiners. However when I try to run anything from the main section to the insulated section the controller detects a short circuit and trips out, stalling the engine across the join. My local model shop said it was possible to reduce the sensitivity of the auto-reverser but I removed the plastic sleeve and couldn’t find anything to alter. Is it a setting within my controller which needs altering? Any help much appreciated thanks

What Dcc system are you using ?

One other thing you try is with the power to the layout switched off run around the track with a magnet.

You'd be amazed what you might pick up.

Hi All

Need some help with which bus wire to use. Layout is small branch line end to end 17' long. My system is digitrax super chief 8amp and their rather large power supply. I know its overkill but it is all I could get at the time. nobody had the 5amp in stock. My question is which wire to use for main bus 32/02 and 16/02 for the droppers. I will only be using 2 locos at anyone time no sound at the moment but at some point I will. Can someone verify this system is ok or do I need to upgrade the wire. Your assistance will be most appreciated. This layout is O gauge and all locos have canon motors

 

Tony

Hi Tony.

I would suggest that you upgrade the main bus wire to 50/0.25 which is 14 awg.

32/0.2 is only 18 awg which is really to small for O gauge.

Use the 32/0.2 for droppers.

Use plenty of droppers as you can never have to many.

Also make sure that any wiring connections you make are capable of taking the full amps that your system is putting out.

I would also use a circuit breaker so that in the event of a short you don't get the full 8 amps going through the short.

If you later decide to put more locos on the layout or upgrade to sound then you can adjust the circuit breaker to allow larger amps through to the track.

In the event of a short your system must shut down immediately.

If your wiring is inadequate then your system won't see the short & that can lead to serious trouble.

Tony.

Take the body off & see if a decoder is fitted.

The 21 pin on the box tells you it will take a 21 pin decoder.

Only ever had excellent service from Rails. 1st class to deal with