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amdaley

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Posts posted by amdaley

  1. Fundamentally, its the volts which killed it - the PowerCab manual says 10-15v DC supply.  18v DC is "over volts".    The heat is the system trying to regulate the voltage and failing.  

     

    The current is a lesser issue, and only comes into play when there is a short circuit.    NCE systems have somewhat inadequate short protection, and end up relying on either the power supply tripping or the use of secondary short protection devices to protect the NCE system. 

     

     

    A "laptop" power supply brick is a fraction of the price of a DCC Concepts PSU2.  The laptop supply can be ordered with the correct voltage, so meeting the NCE PowerCab specification. 

     

     

     

     

    - Nigel

     

    Thanks for that Nigel.

     

    The DCC Concepts PSU2 is 18volts @ 5 amps & DCC Concepts say they use that all the time for their NCE Power Cabs.

    https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/18v-dc-at-2a-uk-a-medical-grade-power-supply-for-dc-dcc-systems-2-5mm-dc-plug/

    NCE say it should be 15volts @ 3 amps max so they both can't be right  :no:

    https://ncedcc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/203935645-Adding-more-power-capacity-to-the-Power-Cab

     

    Personally I think 18 volts @ 5 amps is to much for a Power Cab.

    But I'm no expert so I bow to a higher power or should that be amps :scratchhead:

     

    Tony.

  2. It was a reg power supply from a DCC Concepts PCU2 and I stupidly put 18V @ 5Amps through it! Totally my fault as it wa so bl##dy hot in the loft and my brain had also fried a little earlier. A couple of years back I fu##ed a 5 A Booster unit by doing something similar. I'm cursed by not being able to use trickery correctly.

    Phil

     

    Sorry to hear that Phil.

    It was the amps that did it.

    Anything over 3 amps & the Power Cab will get too hot.

    It can probably be repaired.

    Tony.

  3. What about soldering rail joiners ?

     

     

    There can be issues with expansion and contraction of track due to temperature fluctuations.

     

    Resistance can build up in the rail joiners after a while which would lead to voltage drop & running problems.

  4. Dug out a 12 volt Dc adaptor & connected up vis the yellow wires.

    Success it works fine so I guess the controller just takes an uncontrolled 12 volt DC output.

    I'll use it on my study test tracks so I won't need to go downstairs every time I want to test a loco.

    Here's a photo of my study test tracks.

    Dc in front & DCC at the rear.

     

    Thanks everyone for your help & suggestions.

     

    Tony.

     

    20180602_163841.jpg

  5. Hello Everyone.

     

    While rooting around in some boxes I discovered a Colworth direct drive DC controller ?

    Its a panel mounted unit that i used many years ago.

    However I have no idea what the input voltage should be & can't seem to find any information anywhere on the net.

    Can anyone shed some light or have any information relating to the unit ?

     

    Thanks.

    Tony.

     

  6. This global service ebay offers is stupid. It is often the cheaper the item the higher the postage. Here in Brazil even with 60% duty the post and duty is never more than half of what they want to charge. A lot of the time the seller does not even know they've set it up. I always hunt out the damn box that needs ticking to get rid of it, because as an overseas buyer I just skip the ads even if it is something I want. I did write to one seller who said they could not be bothered to sort it out, well they lost £350 I think its still for sale too.

     

    Just a money making racket  :angry:

  7. Unless the ravages of time are playing havoc with my memory, I cannot recall having seen 10203 with such a vivid roof livery. My memory is of a much softer / lighter hade of pale primrose, albeit usually pretty dirty or alternatively the more standard grey. Colour photographs of the loco in service are not that common and do not seem to give a definite answer either way.

    Anyone have any thoughts on the matter?

     

    I understand the roof will be the same colour as the lettering.

  8. Following various threads on Maunsell restaurant cars, there has been doubt about

    any of these cars ever appearing in crimson and cream in their original form.

    ie. not buffet or cafeteria conversions.

    Here is proof that at least one appeared in crimson and cream.

     

    Have you any idea what the running number of this car is please or where this photo may be found ?

    Can't make it out from the photo.

  9. I checked the length......here is a picture of Flash Gordon girder resting on the bridge.

     

     

    attachicon.gif8 Flash.jpg

     

     

    Its about 1/4" short at each end but that should be easy to fix with Evergreen, either at each end or in the centre. I am guessing its far too high though.........would this be more correct?

     

     

    attachicon.gif9 Height.jpg

     

     

    I guess I need to check some photos......Anyone know the typical height at the centre?

     

     

    The real problem is the side platform at each end of the bridge

     

     

    attachicon.gif10 bridge house.jpg

     

     

    You can just see the support wheel underneath the bridge house platform. Gordon S said that his TT ran fine without them........ but he is far more skilled than I. I am not sure I want to take the risk.......I dont mind butchering a $10 plastic moulding.......a $400 ($500 now) turntable will be outside my comfort level. My instinct is to remove the house and side railings and leave the steps and maybe the machinery.........all heavily weathered.

     

    Mind you I need to get some track laid and set it up first.!

     

    Hello John.

    There are quite a few photos here which should give you a good idea.

    https://www.google.ie/search?rlz=1C1CHBF_enIE756IE756&biw=1920&bih=949&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=BTHuWpWALtOtgAbriJvADA&q=gwr+turntables&oq=gwr+turntables&gs_l=img.12...0.0.0.189790.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0....0...1c..64.img..0.0.0....0.nKLegQ6LlIk

    • Like 1
  10. £1,100 might or might not be too much as we don't have a clear list of the stock etc included.

     

    However given what is clearly visible £100 is just a silly low valuation.

     

    I think the £100 was a bit tongue in cheek  ;)

    As has been said its only worth what someone is willing to pay for it.

    A list of stock would have been interesting ?

  11. It's showing as £55.90... so suggests that the previous price might have been a mistake.

     

    It's a pity as I'd have done it for £1 per issue but not £2.

     

    Which raises a good point about pricing of digital content. If content is cheap enough, people won't think twice before paying for it.

     

    Guy

     

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