amdaley

Now £510 and still three days to go!

And only two bidders 

Not quite the same - it's a RailRoad model but Hornby have referenced third party threats in their latest financial statement.

 

Bachmann also have seen competition from SLW, Accurascale plus their factory relocation issues so not surprising if they are reacting.

I think Hornby would use any excuse at this stage 

Third party threats have always been there for every manufacturer.

Good afternoon All,

I'm currently trying a Scalescenes sample coal / weighbridge office that I've had enlarged to 176% for 7mm scale.  Where the instructions are to use thick card for backing, I'm using the basic 2mm grey board from an art supplies shop.  While it is a nice, stiff card, it's rather tough to cut and, using either a Stanley knife or a scalpel, I'm not achieving vertical cuts.  Can anyone suggest what I should do to improve the situation?  Are there better tools to use?  Would laminating card from serial boxes be better?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers  

Use several passes of the knife as you won't cut it in one go.

The mark 2 has a separate jack socket for power supply but the mark 1 has not.

How would you connect the switch 8?

There is a connector on the Switch 8 for connecting to the track.Its marked DCC.

You can find the Switch 8 user manual attached here.

Switch-8.pdf

I am at the wiring stage of my DCC layout which will ultimately run about 70 Tortoise point motors via an appropriate number of Switch 8 accessory decoders.

There have been suggestions that I should run a separate accessory bus to avoid taking too much power from the track bus. There are other benefits and I can appreciate the logic of an accessory bus. What I lack is a grasp of what I need to do to install it.

My operating system will be based on NCE's Power Cab with with a Smart Booster.

Can anyone tell me what NCE components I need for the accessory bus?

Can I use it on Switch 8 mk 1 as well as mk2?

Yes you can run both mk1 & mk2.

Hi Paul.

You could use double side sticky pads.

Did a search & came up with a few showing the canopy overhanging the running lines.

I should have named the photographs as well.

The top left photo is Craven Arms and Stokesay Station.

The top right photo is Bedford St Johns taken in 1949.

The bottom photo is Levenshulme South station 1948.

The photo's showed up in a search for Railway platform canopies.

Did a search & came up with a few showing the canopy overhanging the running lines.

£34.84 for postage to the US.

So I guess postage is calculated on an inverse exponential scale?

What ever scale he's using it needs calibrating.

Made my day this one.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kernow-Model-Rail-KMRC-K2701-Bulleid-1-Co-Co-1-Diesel-Locomotive-10201-OO-Gauge/142967743021

Postage to UK is £11.00.

Postage to Ireland £25.64.

Where is the item for sale ? N Ireland 

Maybe there's someone out there but it isn't me 

Try Rapid Electronics.

Okay, so it's not technically Ebay madness (because it's on Amazon), but...

 

Holy guacamole, Batman!

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B00260GE1Q/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Now that is madness even if it was the only one ever made & gold plated   

Afternoon all,

 

I’ve got a Hornby Britannia (one of the super detail versions, a few years old now), and I’ve been wanting to use it with DCC, so I installed a chip and it ran for about 2 meters before there was a great Big Bang, a shower of sparks came out from under the firebox, and it no longer moved. Upon inspection the Bachmann decoder itself had blown (a yellow component in the top right corner had completely blown itself to bits), at first I thought it was just a dud decoder as it was one I had had kicking about for a while. So I bought a new Lais DCC one, which I installed and cautiously ran. And straight away I could tell something was wrong, as if the loco was really struggling, and with fear of blowing another chip I immediately stopped it.

 

Has anyone else had any similar issues with Hornby chassis’s blowing up chips? I’ve taken resistance of the contacts to the motor with nothing crazy there (all under an ohm) and a current test aswell with that coming up at around 0.5A (decoder listed as 2A max).

 

The loco was bought second hand about 6 years ago and is subsequently miles out of warranty so probably can’t send it back to Hornby without having to pay for it.

 

TIA

 

Ben

Sorry to hear about your loco Ben.

Did it run well on DC ?

If it doesn't run well on Dc then it won't be any better on DCC.

Never ever fit a decoder to a loco & put it straight on to full power DCC track.

Always test the fitting on the program track first.

Tony.

A part exchange option would be welcome.

Two chances I would say 

Hope Heljan make a better job of this one than they did the last model.

We have a Z21 which we like but it makes the DCC Lighting on some of the models 'Flicker'  I assume this is a voltage issue????

 

Anyone got an idea how to stop this please.  Thanks Charlie

Hi Charlie.

Check the pickups on the models affected.

Fitting a stay alive to some of the models might help.

Tony.

Have a look at braided fishing line.

Looks fantastic.

Wouldn't mind spending a few hours in there 

Psst. It's the wrong way round.  

 

 

The ducket was always facing the locomotive as that's the end with all the measuring equipment.

 

 

 

Jason

You are of course correct.

Stupid mistake on my part 

I put my Mallard with the Rapido Dyno car to see how they'd look together.

Well that's a Xmas pressie sorted.

Which Christmas would that be ?

I like those buildings.

If they are as robust as the Scalescenes then I would definitely be interested.

If a locomotive won't run properly on DC then DCC won't make it any better.

That's the reason its always advisable to run in a loco on DC first.

Does the loco run well on DC ?

These locos seem to have a reputation for poor running.

The next thing to do is run it on DC. It will do that unless you have disabled DC running in the chip.

If it runs well on DC then the problem may be the DCC chip itself or the DCC socket.

If it doesn't run well on DC with the chip still in the loco replace the chip with a blanking plug & test again.

You can test the chip by trying it in another loco that you know works well with DCC.

You can test the DCC socket by replacing the DCC chip with a chip that you know works.