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lyneux

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Everything posted by lyneux

  1. What are the options for sound chipping a 59? For some reason it just doesn't seem to be covered by the big players except Olivias trains. I've tried: SWD Howes Digitrains Coastal DCC Legomanbiffo Has anyone fitted the Olivias chip and is it any good? Are there any alternatives? From experience I'd say they don't sound that different to a 66, so maybe a 66 chip would do the trick?
  2. Latest prints look very tasty. I wonder how/why they are so much cleaner than the earlier ones? Please keep posting pictures... especially keen to see the latest prints with primer on.
  3. Lovely stuff! You don't happen to have any photos of the ARC TH Steelman 325V "Pride of Whatley" do you?
  4. Hi Jo, Just found this thread... interesting idea (and achievable in 4mm too using the Bachmann HHA). Any more progress this month? Guy
  5. That looks stunning! Great effort.
  6. I've just had a look at all of Colin's handwheels that I have and re-measured my drawings of the JHA. Actually, it looks like 18 inch handbrake wheels (i.e. CC01D) are too large. The smaller 15 inch wheels supplied with CC06D seem about the right size. I'm guessing that the smaller wheels in CC02D are the same as the small ones supplied with CC06D. If so, then they would also be appropriate.
  7. Thanks fellas! Chris, I was going to use these: http://colincraig4mm.co.uk/#/hand-wheels/4532593494 I have a few packs of CC01D. I was going to use the ones second from right. I've lots spare since I've used the other types on my PGAs. Alternately the ones from CC02D might be better? I need to sort out the design issues mentioned above then I hope to make them available via the shapeways shop. I'll probably also adapt the 3D model for the JMA bogie too and make this available. Just a matter of time which is in short supply at the moment!
  8. The test print arrived last week and I couldn't wait to try it out with Colin's Wheels. Here it is with a white background: And here it is against black (seems to show up more detail and yes, they are the same wheels!): I was initially worried about the material (frosted ultra detail) not being strong enough and/or warping but it was gratifying to see that the bogies are nice and strong and totally "true". I added a bit of sprue between the ends of the frames (evident in the pictures) to keep the frames the right distance apart. I'm not sure that this is totally necessary. The amazing thing is that none of the brake gear is damaged at all (I was expecting this to be the weakest bit). The axle holes need opening out a bit with a cutting broach to make them free rolling. I've also lost a few of the dampers in the process of handling and washing them. I'm not totally convinced that metal axle on plastic will give a long life to the bogies so I've ordered some Markits bush bearings for 2mm axles. On the test prints I'll open out the bearings to 3mm with a drill to accept the bushes once they arrive. I've washed a lot of the residual wax off the bogies using warm soapy water and a soft paintbrush (inserted into all the nooks and crannies). This seems to have done the trick and it is now a case of seeing how well they take paint. Things to improve on in the next batch: Print with a 3mm hole ready to accept the Markits bearings (assuming they fit on the test print). Strengthen the join between the secondary dampers and their attachment points (make a bigger cross section so they don't snap off). I might also add a sprue that joins the 4 secondary dampers together to keep them from snapping off. Will also print some spare ones as I've lost a few on the carpet! Add a bit of bracing between the main and the side frames (light and dark grey bits in the 3D render on my previous blog entry). The extra bracing on the bogie with the handwheel has a significant strengthening effect. Off now to make up some of Colin's handwheels and to order some sequins and O-rings to act as the primary suspension units.
  9. I've been working on a little project lately to produce model of an ARC/Hanson JHA (build code JH016D/JH017D). Not wishing to bite off more than I can chew, I've started with the LTF-25 bogie. If I never make the wagon, I can at least make a rake of National Power JMAs by re-bogying the Bachmann HHA (+ a little work) as these use a very similar bogie. First a little background on the prototype. Each bogie is different and non-symmetrical. One is hand-braked, the other isn't and the secondary dampers point inwards at the ends of the wagon. This means 4 different views: After much faff with Blender, the 3D model was ready to print. The handbraked bogie is shown on the left and the non-handbraked on the right. You'll notice several pieces missing. I am planning to use Colin Craig's excellent handbrake wheels for the handbraked bogie and the primary dampers will be constructed using Chris Wild's rubber o-rings and sequins technique. I'm also planning to use Colin's excellent wheels for the finished bogie. The blender file: And once uploaded to shapeways, their rendering of the file: More to follow, including pictures of the first test print results from Shapeways...
  10. Hi Chris, A brief update - have sent my bogies off for printing 2 days ago. I'm planning to start a blog on the LTF-25 soon... promise! I wanted to order some sequins and O-rings (I think that is truly inspired way of doing the suspension by the way!). What size did you get? I think around 8 to 8.5 mm is correct for the sequins and something fractionally less for the O-rings. In terms of diameter for the O-rings either 1.6mm or maybe 1.78mm. Was thinking of sourcing them from here: http://budgetbearings.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=19_4501_4598 Actually the suspension units are a bit different between the JMA and the JHA variants of the LTF-25. Diameters of sequins and O-rings are closer for the JHA. Will post pics when I do my blog. Guy
  11. Looks good! Those bolt heads look very small indeed, are they 0.1mm? I'm waiting to see how various details come out in FUD. I've got features using 0.1, 0.2 and 0.3mm thicknesses but I'm worried some of the small brackets in 0.1mm might not come out.
  12. Looking forward to seeing this "in the flesh" in FUD! (or maybe chocolate?)<div><br></div><div>I'm with you on the 3D design-is-a-distraction-from-proper-modelling thing...</div>
  13. Hi Chris, After seeing the results of the Frosted Ultra Detail 3D printing on RMWeb, I've abandoned the idea of doing the LTF25 bogie as an etch and I'm working on a 3D printed model. Will post some preliminary pictures on here soon. The photo in Aug 1990's Railway Modeller is the best I've seen for this bogie. I took some pics of the JMAs at Peak Forest the other weekend and realised that there are at least 5 subtle variants of the bogie, so some scope for variety. I also caught up with Colin Craig at DEMU showcase and got some wheels off him... a work of art! How are you getting on with the rest of the set? Guy
  14. Chris, These look excellent! The sequins and o-rings look particularly effective. I'm working on drawings and a fold-up etch of the LTF bogie. I've got a bit stuck with the brake gear at the moment but the main frames are done. Was also planning to use Colin's wheels. If you're interested I can send you some photos once the test etch is complete? Guy
  15. Looking good Rich.... keep going! Variety is nice to see. Good to see that you are doing some of the ones with the deeper buffer beam. Whose castings will you use for the distributer and tanks? I think I used ones from Wizard models (51L) on my Yeoman PGAs. I also used their sprung buffer heads and drilled out the Lima shanks to take them (bit of an unnecessary pain in the whatsit!).
  16. Hi Rich, Good to see you back! Can't wait to see photos... I've been thinking of doing the salt hoppers myself (as part of an ARC PGA rake) and would like to see how you cut and shut these. Also, what happened to your 59s? Would be great to see some more pictures of these. Now that Bachmann have failed to release one, I've started cutting plastic on two of them for myself. Best of luck with the Gunnels! Guy
  17. Hi Jo, I'm also interested in the Thomas Hill 4 wheeler... planning on a model of one (or two) of them for my 4mm Whatley layout (but in ARC yellow rather than the Hanson blue). I've just taken delivery of a Judith Edge kit of the 0-6-0 TH Steelman to be made into "Pride of Whatley" (325v?). It's rather a unique loco (quite different from the other Steelman's. I've been digging through old railway modellers to try and find the drawings (August 1989). I've got about 15 photos of the right hand side of the vehicle but none of the left. Even though it features on the Rail Freight Today video in several shots, the left side of it remains elusive! Anyway, the engine casing is going to require a lot of work. My current plan is to make custom etches for the engine casing and one or two other bits unique to 325v. This will be my first etched kit so experience on this will help when it comes to possibly scratch-building or etching the 4-wheelers (which are further off in my plans). Martin, having dug through a load of 1980s RMs recently, you are right that the first 59 article in Railway Modeller was by Hugh Searle (in an issue from 86 IIRC). Then between about 87 and 92 there are loads of articles by Len Vass on Mendip wagons of various types. Jo, I'll PM you with some shots of the 4-wheel TH that I've found on the internet (it's a pity fotopic search is down again at the moment). Maybe we can club together and persuade Judith Edge to do a kit of it? ;-) Guy
  18. Hi Will, I have been admiring your Limpets for a while now. They look great! I've been playing around with a rake of POAs (the earlier incarnation of these wagons) and am starting to weather them. Although they won't be as dirty as your Limpets, it's been really helpful seeing the techniques you've used. Any chance of a photo of the whole completed rake? Guy
  19. Will be watching this carefully. I'm also in the process of creating decals for a few wagon projects (PHA, PXA and POA). I've got as far as producing test prints but haven't committed to printing on the transfer paper yet. I'm wondering how much thicker it is than the stuff Precision labels use?
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