Pete the Elaner

Hattons do seem to listen, so if they perceive that demand justifies the cost of manufacture then they may produce it.

There are some real trolls on this forum.

I think I was typing when it appeared

If it has a central reservation, it is a dual carriageway. I was a bit surprised when I found that out. It oes not need 2 or 3 lanes in each direction to officially be a dual. Doesn't seem very safe to me because if something pulls out, you have nowhere to go. It does protect you from oncoming traffic though.

I like that condition but it does look dated compared to the current Coronation. It is pink, the wheels look overly shiny & the tyre profiles are wrong, the pony & bogie both look like they have had an argument with the chassis, the steam pipes are a funny shape. These all make me look forward to the new tooling. (6200 also had black shaded numerals when it ran run with that type of tender & round front buffers. Red shaded dates it to 1938 & later.)

This layout was built to be quickly converted between GWR, S&D and Midland. We regularly change it during a show, usually to represent S&D in the morning then Midland in the afternoon by changing the buildings, station signs & signals (not sure why but GWR went out of favour). Region-specific stock also gets removed & replaced. There is no reason why era could not be changed too, for instance from 1960s to 1920s.

We seem to be going in circles because this has already been answered. Both Legomanbiffo & Digitrains/Paul Chetter produce sound projects for class 50s. Both have the 'hoover' fan sound switchable which you can turn on by a function if you have an original. I though all the Heljan ones (for the initial release at least) were refurbs though, so the hoover sound is irrelevant. Sound projects can be blown to the larger, more powerful decoders & a 7mm model should be perfect to fit a larger speaker to.

I remember reading a strange behaviour with a particular address on this forum some time ago, but I don't remember the details so it will be next to impossible to search for it. I don't remember seeing someone understand & explain the cause. It may well require some knowledge of how the instruction is broken up & sent across the DCC signal. Sorry I can't remember more, other than I don't think you are the first to encounter such an issue.

If you thought that & are not prepared to accept an answer, why ask about it in the first place? Read the page again. It says "Sky wIfi - Connect to the Cloud". So this would be Sky's wifi service with an SSID of "The Cloud" allowing you to connect to what I described earlier. Other wifi providers can & do also name their wifi "The Cloud". I could re-name my home wifi's SSID to "The Cloud" if I wanted. "The Cloud" is certainly not 1 entity owned by 1 company. It is what I described earlier. 4G is so good now that there is little need to use someone else's wifi.

I have always run cellulose thinners every time I used it & after 15 years, I never noticed a degradation in performance.

Cloud loosely means "something somewhere on the internet". Amazon, Microsoft & Google are the 3 largest suppliers of 'cloud' computing & storage solutions. They have entire warehouses filled with servers/storage which have good internet connection allowing customers to connect & manage it remotely. They effectively take hardware management (replacing failed drives, upgrading servers, doing daily backups etc) away from IT administrators & also allow clients to connect from anywhere. It does not matter where these are & for security purposes, providers do not publish their locations. Each data centre can host thousands of different companies' systems, but none have any access to each other. Providers have gone to great lengths to make it far more secure than it sounds. In the situation to which you refer, Wetherspoons may have wifi named 'cloud' authenticating with their servers, allowing you to seamlessly use their wifi from any of their pubs. These may be at their own HQ but could easily be in a cloud provider's datacentre. Other chains may have their own wifi also called 'cloud' which authenticates with their own servers. Their 'own servers' may even be on one of the previously mentioned provider's systems.

It does have a page listing all CVs so you can edit them directly if someone has given you a list of changes. I used this to restore settings to a loco after someone at the club had changed things with NCE's momentum button.

If you want something you can reset, search for circuit breaker. The voltage rating is an upper limit. It is the current which trips it. If you want something cheaper & more simple, then a fuse. It may be a low-tech solution but there is nothing wrong with that. The only drawback is you need to replace it after you have a fault.

Good point. At the club we have a (S/H) PowerCab with an issue. If you select the program track, the lights, bell & horn button (which should be Fn 0-2) re-map themselves to different buttons. I think 1 becomes 5 until you reset the throttle! Now we are aware, we avoid the issue & will document how to perform a throttle reset in the layout's quick reference guide. So don't always trust the lights/bell/horn keys. The other thing you could have tried was setting the loco address while it in on the program track. You don't need to know its address in order to change it on there.

Because people don't always do what they should, so an electronic aid is viewed as an extra layer of safety.

Yes, they should be listed. After a server failure, I learned the following: The roster is stored in a file called 'roster.xml' which contains all the basic settings you see when browsing the roster list. In the same folder is a sub-folder called 'roster'. In here is a separate .xml file for each loco (or multiple unit) your JMRI is aware of. They are in plain text so you should be able to find what you want. The CV list is at the end of the file. Don't change these files! I have never tried it & don't want to be responsible for causing your JMRI to lock up as a result. Change the required CV(s) on the loco & use JMRI to read the data back in again. You can view/move this folder from the options tab, so you can copy the entire folder to a USB drive. I recommend backing this up.

One without a tank. I have heard remarks that a tank is not really necessary for airbrushing, so I have the following questions (which unusually for this forum are entirely relevant to this thread ). Mine is on about 10%-20% if the time I am spraying. The rest of the time it is using the pressure in the tank giving a nice, smooth air flow. Does yours have to run whenever you are spraying & does the air flow feel slightly pulsed?

Generally speaking, expensive is not always better. You may end up paying extra for features which you don't ever need. Buying cheap will allow you to learn what you really want/need & if you then find that what you have doesn't meet your requirements, you can buy something more suitable. You can always sell the first one to someone else so they can learn what they really want/need.

I thought a brake test was a routine procedure before setting off? I remember being on a train at Euston a few years ago where the 87 had to be changed. The staff insisted on doing a brake test which added a couple of minutes to the delay. I thought this was normal.

Interesting comment. As my name suggests, I sometimes drive a Lotus. They don't make autos. There are other advantages to manuals though. When something goes wrong, you can still drive a part-faulty manual. You could have lost a gear or a part could be worn. An auto will stop working before a manual become unusable. Autos are more reliable than in the past but a repair would still be more expensive than to a manual. When driving, you can pre-empt a manual: When approaching a roundabout, it is usual to select the correct gear before you need it. An auto is reactive, so you need to tell it (by accelerating) that you want a different gear. This hesitation can be annoying. Likewise on a busy dual carriageway, you can drop a gear before changing lanes, so when you want to pull out & accelerate, the power is immediate. I have driven a fairly modern 7-speed auto. Its response & changing times are impressive but still not as good as pre-emptive changing. I know many have an override for this but it is a manual action. I have used this before then the auto has engaged kickdown, dropping me 2 gears before quickly changing up again. It is not like I have to consciously think about changing gear anyway. It becomes sub-conscious very quickly. ..but I have driven an auto along London's Embankment at rush hour on a Friday afternoon. The ideal situation for it.

I had a small garage compressor. Something like this but an older model. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-bandit-iv-8-litre-air-compressor/ At the time it was an inexpensive option & on paper it was good. Much more powerful than you will ever need for an airbrush. The older model did not have a moisture trap, so I had to fit my own. There was one very big problem: it was loud...very loud. I would not use it after 8pm because I did not want to upset the neighbours (not that I have ever upset them anyway) & when the compressor started, it gave me (& anyone else) a bit of a fright. It is more suited to a home garage compressor, which is the role it is now used for. I have replaced it with this: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/quiet-run-compressor-2/ Far less powerful than the previous one but easily enough for an airbrush. I have to use & replace oil in the motor once a year, but the moisture trap is included. The noise is minimal. I was watching a DVD while airbrushing last night. The TV was not on very loud but I could not hear the compressor at all. Drawback is the cost. I am effectively paying a high premium for something to be much quieter than it needs to be. I know others who have got AS-186 compressors & they seem to work nicely. They are not as quiet as mine, but they work at a comfortable noise level.

Hardly new. I was taught that when I learned in 1990 & was given a very sensible reason for doing it: Slowing using the brakes puts on the brake lights. Slowing with gears doesn't. I have yet to find anyone with any sensible argument against that.

What you really want to do with & get from the hobby is a very personal choice. There is no right or wrong. What works for me may not work for you. Finding your own way is part of the fun. Starting simple is a very good idea. Big, complex layouts may be appealing but they take a long time to build to any decent standard & driving a train for the first time on a layout is an experience which re-generates enthusiasm.

I disagree. Surely you are buying a Hattons 66 because they have sold it as being better than those currently available? If they have identified an issue then I would rather them hold things up a few more months than ignore it. If having one now is important to you then Hornby & Bachmann's versions are both available. They could easily have announced that the models will not be here until February. It would probably be less work for them.

Some find their sideways swaying unpleasant, which is a view I do not share. Consider what ran the services before... 321s. Their ultra-low seating helped to make them uncomfortable & occasionally these used to 'bump out' as they bounced up & down, as if they had reached the limit of their suspension. Occasionally you would get one with an end door which would not stay shut. I never liked these when they were new. Before them, the 317s were a similar design, but not on the line for long. & before those, 310s. Draughty, only 75mph. The seating in a 350/1 is now looking worn (but nowhere near as lifeless as Virgin's Mk3As shortly before they were replaced), so a refurb is welcome. 350/2s & 350/3s are fine though.