richbrummitt

To avoid possible duplication if I decide to get my finger out, which diagram(s) would it cover.

Looking back to this blog post http://www.rmweb.co....-meet-the-bird/ where you included a picture of the road I would say that the colour is not far wrong for the worn bits, but there are some less worn bits between where tyres have made the most contact. The variation in colours only need be very slightly darker. I'm sorry I can't help with a method.

Despite being out of period for what I would like to portray I have succumbed to the offer of a 2251 bodyshell. Those that did likewise will also need a tender. I have whitemetal tenders from Langley, P&D Marsh and GEM kits but none of them posses the fidelity that an etched one could/should/would have. It might be a plausible proposition for one of the greats in 4mm to reduce one of their kits, or a stand alone kit in 2.06mm, if there is enough demand.

Plan books used to say this in them (at least the C J Freezer one that I read until it fell to bits as a youth did) as a note about reducing the OO plans. OO has 3.5mm track so somewhere between 2/3 to 3/4 is realistic. A full size plan will help a great deal. It was the first thing I did when planning. I expect that you have already born in mind that the fiddle yard would be quite thin and possibly squeezed up in an area between the two boxes when stored?

Bad rich... It is good to hear you are still progressing, althoughI was most interested in point two.

Can you file a bit off the locos? I guess that the checkrail/alkway will have to be thinned down to allow clearance. Even in four that's ridiculous dedication and effort. Regarding the road: How about having the Top Gear road trip with three supercars tailing it along with a film crew hanging out the back of an estate car?

If you are using 2mm wheelsets then you want 2FS track standards for it to work properly. They were designed to work to together. If you are using N wheelsets then naturally you have to make all the concessions necessary to make the thing work with various manufacturers interpretations of different standards (even different interpretations of their own standards sometimes it would seem).

It's just the blood you need. The carcass is useless.

I'm still waiting for stock to be delivered so there's no rush.

The track bed for the back siding is now raised up and I've cut some foam board to fix the platform edging to. I think I might have overcooked it and made it a bit too high. What follows are a few pictures from different angles, some of which will be similar enough to those presented previously. Above: A couple of views looking approximately south over the east end of the platform. Below: Another view looking east similar to some of the photographs from the last entry. Apologies for the shakes. The platform surface will actually sit on the lip in the top of the platform face/edge mouldings. I fixed the edging to the foam board with a glue gun. It was quick, convenient, and didn't seem to have any ill effect on either substrate. At the moment all the platform construction is removable. What is that vehicle that I've used for gradient testing? It was what was being worked on at the bench; one of my longest standing works in progress. I make no apology for it being another milk van (I have some strange fascination with NPCS). This time an O13 from a Blacksmith (ex-Mallard) reduction. They were introduced in 1921 so would be almost brand new in service for my time period. There are a number of things still to do but that list is getting shorter.

Thank you. Been looking forward to seeing this in action but I don't mind waiting to suit your timescales though.

I'll bet. I have to fix my turnout operation as a next action. I don't want to be trying to fix that after fully detailing the track and getting the ballast down and painted and the point rodding and indicators on and...

Yes, if you send me a picture of what they look like flat. I don't have the LMS wagon books anymore.

I recently got my first prints back in 2mm and a good detail is quite achieveable on the shapeways FUD process. I hope this goes well for you.

See rule 1.

I've missed you deeply (except for one day in Aldershot). That narrow gauge chassis makes the track look really big. Oh wait it's peco. haha.

Thank you Mikkel. I look forward to your posts and just ran out of laptop battery looking over old ones.

Twice, Pete, is careless. ;-) It's definitely better to change it. The way it was it looked really awkward. Anyone would question whether it was really like that. Having found that wire hanging about I am a little worried about the longevity of the wiring, although it is on a moving part where the boards hinge in the middle, because a lot of the wiring is going to be inaccessible once the terraforming is complete.

There is no fear, all I have to do is make sure that the wagons stay in the siding. There is a catch point, but it'd be a farce if the stock just derailed itself once uncoupled from a loco. I think if I had to take it all up this would be round the tip to be replaced with new baseboards for Tiddington.

Marginally, but I can't buy anything in boxes for use directly. Even the rather good mathieson wagons need their headstocks drilled for couplings, a wheel swap, and the brake shoes chamfering for clearance. That's about as close as I'll get.