dj_crisp

Thanks for all of the prototype info... im finding it all really interesting! Cheers Will

Thanks. I'm thinking I'll just draw something representing some kind of unreadable hand written writing. I also thought it said June too. Thanks!

I'm just modelling this unit https://www.railcar.co.uk/images/20702 And I'm not sure what's written on the set number in the bottom left window. I assume top left is TS with 702 at the bottom. Does anyone know whats written top right to the right of the TS? Thanks Will

A 153 (and 155) will be ace and I'd be right up for those by any manufacturer who can get the shape right! I had planned on a major project combining the best bits of the Dapol/Hornby 155 and 153 to make one but have sold these as its a project too far and I'd heard Heljan were doing the 153 so thought they'd do both scales. Slightly surprised they didn't go for 4mm as well tbh. I'm sure 153 would be a good seller. Its well travelled, has loads of liveries and is small!

Thanks! I didn't realise so will have a look at mine as I didn't notice them. On the realtrack 156 I have I think there is a bit of an attempt to include the door cover as part of the moulding which is why I thought it could be a challenge to get looking right

I don't really use 3 link couplings but for a few of my DMUs I've got the option to couple up. So I used the cosmetic ones at first but found they uncoupled in operation so have switched to a hybrid coupling using a Smith's hook and Bachmann cosmetic couping. Being oversized I find the Smith's hook easier to use and it doesn't uncouple. Personally I'd only use this setup on the loco and then have a more robust coupling on whatever the loco is coupled to. (It's fine for a bubble dragging a DTS ;) )

I can't see any moaning....?? And I'm a quite happy "rivet counter" so like the chat of differences between locos and then how to apply these the models... which alongside discussing the merits/mechanics of the model I think is part of the point of the thread. I learn so much from them which hopefully then improves my modelling when i attempt to bash a few. So way prefer the posts on the current model than seeing how far we've come.

Hi Roy That's brilliant.... thanks for the help and finding a perfect shot of 54281! I must spend as much time on railcar as any other site but somehow missed this one. Will have a go at replicating as soon as I have data panels on order from railtech Cheers Will

I reckon there's no speed matching needed having a Heljan DPU! The DPU will be in charge! Will look really good together.

I'm just finishing my 121 DTS project using Bachmann bits n pieces..... Does anyone know what transfers I should include on the back? I think it might need an overhead warning flash, a C1 route and a data panel? Although could be that it's all blank like this! It's been a fun project and if you're interested here is my attempt; Any info on bit's I've got wrong is appreciated ! cheers Will

A case of spot the difference! Well they say a model railway is never finished and that rule applies to my models! I've decided to complete the same modifications to all of my DMUs so have been spending a long time adding bits of bent wire, plastikard etc so they all look to have a similar level of detail. Yes it's taken me flipping ages to do the fleet! Anyhow I'm now close to "finishing" a few models.... My 121 DTS has had quite a bit of work but is beginning to look how i want it to; I've added bits of wire etc, thinned the front windows, added transfers, laserglaze and a destination blind as well as some etched wipers. I think the colour match of rainbow railways blue is pretty good as you have to look to see where I've resprayed and I'm hoping no-one will notice with a casual look. I've included this view as I've lined the glazing on this side only - not sure it's that much of an improvement for lighter colours so I think I'll only do it for the darker shades. What do you think? I wasn't happy with my first attempt on removing the gangway so have re-filled and sanded... then resprayed the ends again! I'm a bit happier now and just need to find out what transfers need adding... if any? If you know please let me know! Well I'm quite pleased that the bubble in distress I bought i changed my mind and didn't sacrifice it for other projects. The roof welds and weaathering took quite a few coats but hopefully it gives the impression something it's not all one piece. I've tried to represent this one at the end of it's time in GWR 150. Unlike 117305 it didn't stay long in GWR 150 so didn't get chance to get too shabby although the roof did seem to fade quite badly. So I've kept this one "clean". I still don't think I completely cracked the roof colour but I'm happier looking at something that doesn't seem smooth. While researching 55020 it seemed to be out with a few friends while in GWR150 livery. On flckr i've found it towing/pushing a DTS and a DPU then i think mine might do the same! Right time to crack on with a few more DMUs!

Brilliant. Sounds like you've got proper day/night lights covered for the original lighting.... in warm white LEDs :) ? I was looking at my RR 156 and was wondering if I could make the translucent gangway door covers. Kind of gave up on that in the end but that would be a welcome addition if possible. I guess it would require a mod of the tooling though? Not a big thing if its not possible. Cheers Will

Agree with this and wouldn't be bothered if there is a price increase to accommodate the extra lights

Regional Express for me :) Always remember seeing it for the first time when the first were rolled out in it. Rather a striking livery in them days

I agree. Personally I'd prefer an etch which'll have more finese.... with a design that allows the middle part of the plough left off

Something I've pondered too... but for slightly different reasons. The 153 is a bit dodgy to judge as the wheels are too large and the roof profile is wrong so hard to judge on that one.. I think they squashed the gangways a little to compensate. (Fitting an alternative such as Lima makes a difference to the look). I was hoping Heljan would do a 4mm one tbh as the 7mm looks better. The 150 does look low in your photos and I'm not sure of the reason for it. I've noticed on some of my 150s there is alot of slop in the axles in the trailing bogies causing it all to sit low. Depending on which bogie is fitted then if you have the newer one slightly bending the contacts helps. I also fitted brass bearings to some of mine with no contacts to tighten things up. As my layout is EM I'm replacing all wheels. So have fitted 11mm ultrascales which hopefully makes an interesting comparison; I think it looks a bit better and if anything the 150 is still a smidge low but I can live with that. Rightly or wrongly I've based my platform height on the 158.... mostly I'm going with the theory that if the 158 has clearance then pretty much all my stock does. So I'm trying to make the 158 and 150 look ok in the platform... And a bit closer attempting for a level photo! I've probably built the platform a little high but there's no going back now! What we all need is a 11mm solid disc EM wheel.... (I say hopefully that one of our excellent manufacturers is reading this....)

No removable roofs to fit drivers though ;)

Lots of great stuff going on here. I'm not sold on the removable roof idea though especially with the ease of getting Accurascale bodies off. (I'm assuming the middle blue bit is removable as its not sitting right) End of the day I only change decoders when first bought or they go bang so hopefully not often at all. By being removable a heavier seem is introduced and then you're relying on a perfect fit for each loco. Something I've seen that's not achievable with the 37, and the 66 looks like it's going to have the same issues.

I've been researching 55020 and as you say it didn't last long in GWR150.... but in that time the roof did weather quite quickly! Also on flickr there are photos of it subsituting a 117, then with a DPU and also a DTS so had some interesting formations! T305 seems to be on loads of excursions so almost any late 80s/early 90s layout has an excuse to run one! I'm having a bash at doing 117305 when it was hanging around Penzance towards the end of it's days.

I've been spending some time this week bending bits of wire and staring at underframes - and for one chassis also slapped on some base weathering to see how things look. Then of course I've decided to do a few extras! When weathered I'm pleased how the speedo cable, front pipes and extra depth to the back of the bufferbeam looks. It's all very subtle but is noticable Vs one that hasn't been updated. I've also added some dangly wires to the two boxes behind the bogie which is my best guess as to whats going on here. I'm sure this isn't strickly right so I'm using my impressionist modelling style ;) The front is mostly standard Bachmann with my only change being the cross pipe on the MU connectors. Can't resist adding a bit of wire above the grill... this side is easy to fit as I've drilled a hole in the chassis whereas the other side isn't. Of course looking at this photo shows I've mounted it a touch high - hey ho. And hiding is a square bit of plastikard to the right of the battery box. Some of the preserved DMUs have this painted orange so it really sticks out but I think in BR days it wasn't.... anyhow it's a really quick job to add using square rod. One thing I'm consfused on is where did these units carry air horns? I've seen them mounted under the secondmans steps on some photos but i don't know of they had some both ends or all carried them there?

Stunning! i love the weathering and your refinements.... I must have a bash at mine now... (as soon as I've done my DMUs). As Will says laserglaze will nicely finish it off and just because I've been painting them a spot of dried bufferhead grease :) I've been looking for some better horns too - Accurascales are really nice but I'm not sure if they're available or if there is an alternative? Thanks for sharing the photos and tips - Will be bookmarking this!

Interesting... i don't suppose you have some of Brians new laserglaze to compare? Looks a little shallow to me.... but that could be compensation for the thick edges thanks

I've been pondering the front of my Bachmann 37 vs the prototype (don't have an accurascale version to do similar to) and i think it's possibly a little flat at the base but I think this issue is exaggerated by the naff glazing. I'm tempted to try some of Brians frames as i have loads in stock to see if it makes any difference. (i understand Bachmann and brian seem to agree on the sizing of the frames but as yet haven't tried ) I think (judging by photos) that the accurascale version is laid back a bit too much and have my suspicions on how the curve of the roof departs away from the side windows. If you have a side on view you'll know what I'm on about. I've often thought the frames of the accurascale look a bit small... but they could be fine just not at the right angle? It's hard to tell on photos. Mind you the bonnet doors on Bachmanns is way better so overall I think Bachmann have done a better job in this area.

Hopefully a 4mm scale version to follow?

Looking very neat! I'd be tempted with just using foam board but that'll be an experiment rather than anything ive used (seeing as mine is all cork)..... The trackbed looks quite flat around the station area in your photos so probably not much is needed. Also if I were to start again I'd like to try out the droppers you've suggested and try to sneak them through a sleeper with a cosmetic chair hiding them. I just stripped back wire, bent it into an L shape, soldered it and then soldered it to the base of the rail. Its hard to see under flatbottom but a little more noticeable under bullhead but if u do it before laying the track then it can be easily file a little to hide further. Even better is to have the wire go though a sleeper and add cosmetic chairs which ive done in places. Every length of rail has a dropper to the main DCC circuit... wiring and track laying did seem to take an age with me!