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2mm Andy

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Everything posted by 2mm Andy

  1. Ian, I'm pretty sure that I used 2-327 for the three 1907 RCH wagons I have built. Hope that helps. Andy
  2. Clocks go back one hour on 31st October in the UK, so the next two meetings should be a 10am BST start here. Andy
  3. Both track level and above the portal - Network Rail have recently published some archive drawings which show details of the portal; https://www.networkrail.co.uk/stories/the-architecture-the-railway-built-bramhope-tunnel/ Andy
  4. I really enjoyed the Bramhope tunnel programme - it brought back memories of being on site there in summer 2003 when the drainage and track were being replaced (it looks as though the stonework on the tower has been tidied-up a bit since then). The Leeds portal is not quite as architecturally imposing as the Harrogate portal, but still quite impressive. A shame that both are pretty inaccessible to all but railway workers (or TV presenters!). Apologies for the rather poor photo. Notice the carved figure on the keystone. We always reckoned that the young chap at the Leeds end represented the engineer at the start of the job, and the old bearded man on the Harrogate portal was the same chap at the end! Nice to see mention of the monument in Otley churchyard too. I visited it on my way to site one day - a bit sobering to then go into the very tunnel where so many of those commemorated perished. The plaque on the memorial is actually a replica - the original being in the NRM at York; https://collection.sciencemuseumgroup.org.uk/objects/co209196/arthington-tunnel-memorial-plaque-1849-memorial-plaque Andy
  5. I think the incoming water would go up through the centre of the supporting pillar - refilling from a temporary hose wouldn't really be workable (you'd be doing it after every 2 or 3 locos used the tank potentially). Where there was a steel stanchion supporting the tanks it appears to be a sort of fabricated 'box' section so the water supply pipe must run up the middle (fixing a leak must have been fun!); https://locoyard.com/2012/08/12/didcot-railway-centre/029-didcot-railway-centre-didcot-halt-water-tower/ Incidentally, there are drawings for few different types of GWR "fire grates" for water cranes in Great Western Journal number 4. Unfortunately the drawing is reproduced to quite a small scale and it's not very easy to see the dimensions on it. Andy
  6. I didn't realise S&DJR water towers had moats around them like medieval castles.... Andy
  7. Unless I've missed something, the assembly jig included with the kit doesn't match the frames to the rods - it just makes the job of assembling the frames squarely a bit easier. Using it to check the rods match the frames would require jig axles with turned down ends to fit the coupling rods onto (as used in 4mm). The accuracy of the rods and the frames matching is purely down to the etch designer having drawn them correctly and the etch artwork not getting stretched in some weird way. PS. Glad to hear you managed to resolve the quartering issue. Andy
  8. I think this was the reason for the carriage being the shape it was on the lorry; Andy
  9. Hello Roger, The wheels looks very nice. A question if I may - when you etch the centres, do you include a representation of the wheel rim as part of the etch (to fit inside the turned steel tyre) or just etch a "spider" which is then soldered into the tyre at the end of each spoke? regards, Andy
  10. There were a few posts on this subject in the "Any question answered" thread last year. Using wire-wound guitar strings seemed to be somewhat contentious! Building relatively few wagons (none at the moment!) I usually use the N Brass Loco castings. Andy
  11. The van from Peterborough has now moved to Peak Rail (it is part of Andrew Briddon's collection); http://www.ws.rhrp.org.uk/ws/WagonInfo.asp?Ref=16225 Andy
  12. Mike, if the wheels are for your static model of City of Birmingham mentioned here then could I suggest that the 2mm ones are probably overkill for your needs, being designed for working models (and expensive as a result). Better to find some old 2mm loco wheels from years gone by or 3d print some (which apparently isn't difficult to do). Apologies if I've misunderstood and you're building a working Coronation class loco as well as the above model. Andy
  13. I have a drawing somewhere from an old (early 1960s) Model Railway Constructor magazine that shows the vent positions. I'll try to dig it out for you. It would be worth cross-checking it against photos though in case there is some variation in the vent positions. Andy
  14. erm.... https://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/event/22214-BinghamModelRailwayClub_Exhibition
  15. These articles presumably? http://2mm.org.uk/articles/CT-decoders.htm http://2mm.org.uk/articles/Zimo-decoders.htm Andy
  16. There is a thread on the 2mm VAG about it. It seems that the conversion system (brass bearings and axle muffs) previously developed for the Farish locos will work for the coupled wheels, and the trailing axle is a clip fit into the plastic moulding so can be replaced. I've got one sat on my workbench but haven't run it in yet. Andy
  17. Are these Markits buffer heads what you are looking for (albeit unblackened)? https://www.petersspares.com/markits-m28-mbufwrlnwr12-lnwr-12-wagon-buffer-heads-plug-inbrass-pk4.ir Andy
  18. Correct - it's known as a "datum plate". Some info here (6th photo down); http://www.railsigns.uk/info/other1/other1.html Andy
  19. It's not a Bulleid light pacific you know! Andy
  20. I'm fairly sure the first two photos are taken at Northampton Castle station, with the train heading South. Andy
  21. Simon, TBH my first thought would be to check the quartering, particularly on the right hand wheelset compared to the other two. Did you test the loco before soldering the crankpin washers on? I use small slices of plastic wire insulation over the untrimmed crankpins to retain the coupling rods while I test run the loco to check for any possible problems. Only when I'm happy do the crankpin washers get soldered on. Some people have reported the Jinty/4F conversion rods to be a touch on the fragile side, although there are others who have had no problems. A quick way to beef them up is to buy two etches and solder the two full thickness layers together to make the rod for each side (rather than use one full thickness layer and one half-etch layer as the etch provides for). Andy
  22. Apologies for the thread drift away from CF, but is there not the risk of introducing more fibres by using a cotton bud (even dipped in cleaning fluids)? There is no shortage of sharp corners or points on a 2mm chassis to snag the cotton bud on and having spent an hour trying to extract oil-soaked fibres from around the axles and crankpins of a secondhand N gauge loco last week I'll prefer to avoid anything that might mean repeating that task! Andy
  23. Is that definitely the case? There is a website for Nonneminstre which was last updated in mid-2020; http://www.nonneminstre.co.uk/ Very nice work on the crane btw. Andy
  24. I thought it was perhaps so you could justify having a bit of (disused) broad gauge track on the layout too....triple gauge trackwork maybe?
  25. Neil, I don't know if this helps; https://www.modelraildatabase.com/wagons/details/1235/ If it is correct, the model was released in 1999, which might explain why it wasn't shown in your catalogues, but doesn't explain the date stamp on the box the model came in... Andy
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