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SouthernMafia

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Everything posted by SouthernMafia

  1. Got up to our clubroom last week to give 66621 a run in, now runs nicely and the wobble has gone. Now time to sort the lights..
  2. Various bits and bobs happening with stock at the moment, including... 3x Dutch 73s in the paint shop for colour rectification (not all mine): 47303 in Freightliner red triangle nearly there: New Heljan 33063 receiving a livery modification (Mainline branding in wrong place on one side - being replaced with a Construction sector): 33207 and 37711 adopted some ploughs: Scale Model Scenery MoD side door containers built and now in the paint shop: And finally got in a lil running session on Redbridge to test some stock and run things in, including my Hattons 66 which is now wobble-less! Happy modelling.
  3. Hi Mark, It's Ratio 432 SR Precast Concrete Fencing sprayed Matt black. HTH.
  4. Exactly, we will have to live with it but strange it's taken me about 10 years to notice it! It's still a great model, I'm up to 12 now but having to be careful with these higher prices, gone are the £39 Hattons bargains!
  5. Same problem on Dutch 33026 as well. Heljan have put the split in line with the front on the new version, on older Dutch models it's lower down. It definitely looks like the bodyside windows to me:
  6. So it appears 33063s preserved two-tone livery is slightly different to how it wore it during its working life. Heljan have the livery as in the latter, with the yellow/black divide on the front inline with the cab handrails. On the Mainline preserved version it's higher up. These 5 protrusions show the difference on the sides: Construction 1992 Mainline 1996 Mainline Preserved It's only 2 down on the Mainline preserved version and 3 down on the Construction/Mainline 1996 version. But where Heljan have put it 3 down it doesn't line up with the front so something isn't right dimensionally with the body side features. As I'm putting a Construction logo on one side at least it will be slightly less wrong, but the Mainline preserved side is more akin to Mainline 1996. Is it supposed to be modelled as preserved?
  7. Speaking of dodgy liveries, I've removed my Mainline branding on 33063. Had to respray (quick job) as I tried the Sharpie method and it took a bit more rubbing to remove the logos, so just be wary. Numbers might be ok. It's only now I've realised there's an error with the bodyside windows. They're either too big or too low down, or both. The dividing line between the two greys should be in line with the dividing line on the cab ends and the horizontal handrail. If you move the line up it will dissect the windows. Same problem on the Dapol 73 which I'm currently redoing (Dutch). Doh!
  8. I think it will sell very well, ideal for any size layout. If you make the funny green, you'll get two off me! (NSE as well). The Brunswick green is a little too late for me. Hope enough people request it.
  9. Just placed another nameplate order with Brian, I emailed with my requirements, clearly listed with product code, name, price code, price and total price. Whether this makes it easier for him I don't know, but I received a response within 2 days and have never had problems placing orders like this. He came back with total price with postage and a PayPal link. Plates hopefully dispatched this week which includes a custom order. Great service.
  10. Just about, the silver edging blends into the edge of the Shawplan plate so if you don't get it bang on centre it's not too noticeable.
  11. There appears to be ETCS testing going on today between Paddington and Langley on the Relief lines.
  12. Previous experience plating 33114 Ashford 150 is that Heljan made the printed plates too big. Or the Shawplan ones were too small but I think I trust Brian to produce a more accurate product than Heljan! The printed plate came off ok but not as easy as Bachmann locos.
  13. I don't want a restoration model. It didn't carry nameplates when out in the real world, and was in Construction livery until sometime in 95/96, so this allows me to model both livery variations I want on the same loco, I just turn it round since you can't see both sides of the loco at the same time.
  14. Good spot on 33063s logo, I didn't notice it either ! Lucky I plan to remove one side anyway and stick Construction Sector logo on it, but was going to be a tidier job than what it will be now as no doubt the sheen will show where the old Mainline logo sits. Some matt varnish to the rescue hopefully. As others have said, these livery errors are very frustrating, why isn't it checked!?
  15. Unfortunately I'm inclined to agree, the sides are just about acceptable, but the front is not good. Glad I converted a D65xx blue one to 33020, I was going to replace it with 33012 but sadly not now for 135 notes. Thanks to 50030 for posting those pix too.
  16. We often get problems at Paddington (though it may be better now) and on one occasion when I couldn't register the GSM-R, when I contacted the Signaller I got through to Three Bridges ROC ! The SPT was used thereafter! I saw this picture taken recently at Harrowden Jnc, very different! So does this mean the electrification is now complete?
  17. With the help of a fellow Winchester club member who specializes in carriage construction I've finally completed this 205 centre car in Connex livery for a friend. Its a Replica 64ft suburban coach modified with through wiring and couplings so the lights work at the ends. It then came to me for painting and transfers, which are from Precision Labels, very nice they are too. As I like to take my time with projects this took a number of months to complete !! Then back to Tony for final assembly, and those all important No Smoking labels, he must be mad. All in all quite pleased with the result. Also my first go at focus stacking in Photoshop, its not quite perfect but as only 3 images it's turned out ok.
  18. Yes I very much doubt there are any changes under the bonnet.
  19. If I may add my suggestion on potential future releases with other loads, I note there is a variation for MoD container traffic which looks slightly different to the Accurascale PFA, is a tooling variant viable? https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/kellyspfa/hba51481
  20. Waiting with anticipation to see what the weathering is actually like on 33012, understand it was a bit hit and miss on the 0 gauge version?
  21. Looks fantastic...I do not need to buy 5 more ! I'm glad you've mentioned the paint shade, it looks a little limey and not yellowy enough IMO, appreciate difficult with camera/monitors/phone screens etc. and they were obviously very clean when brand new.
  22. Neodymium seems to be the accepted type to use, I first started using small thin rectangular ones which I glued to the underside of the baseboard, and then added more magnets to until I got the strength to move the hooks at track level. It wasn't very reliable though, having to account for 6mm ply, cork, ballast and sleepers in the way! Hence why I changed to 3mm thick round ones so I could drill them into the underside of the board, they're very reliable now. I expect you could get away with 10mm or even 8mm diameter but I just went with 12mm.
  23. The DAS modelling clay has been out for some trial and error landscaping, with some inspiration drawn from Mr Nevards techniques. I've tried using this before and struggled, but this time things seemed to go a bit more to plan, though it's hard work on your index finger if covering a large area! I will be building this up in a couple of layers to give the impression of a low relatively slopeless platform surface from the two sunken sidings down to sleeper height at the run-round on the left. The wood edging will all be covered. I've also constructed one ramp on one of the sidings, the other won't have one so I'll need to do something with that chunk of wood I've glued on the end !! I've also been fiddling about with neodymium magnets and uncoupling NEMs ala Brian Kirby method, works a treat with 2x 12mm diameter 3mm thick magnets spaced 20mm apart. I drill a small pilot hole from the top down through the baseboard, then using a 12mm drill bit drill from the underside about 4-5mm deep. The magnets slot in and stay as it's a tight fit. No gluing required and if it's slightly wrong I can remove the magnet and drill another hole. Now just a few hundred NEM hooks to solder staples too !!
  24. Ok thanks. So would any P&O Nedlloyds be on the cards?
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