Richard_A

Are they the early ones? I was wondering about using it for the series three batch.

Are the WC cabs suitable for the MN class? I have a golden arrow resin kit for a MN but been put off by the thickness of the can moulding.

I keep looking at cockett station on the line out of Swansea, a tunnel short station and a road over bridge, I'd imagine it'd be boring in the diesel era but possibly interesting based in in the steam era.

Really good modelling again Jamie, have you any photos of the Swindon DMU on the layout? Regards Richard

The airgap is to give the structure a chance to breathe. Timber can rot incredibly quickly if completely covered, check out your local building controls website, it will have a section on insulating rooves which should explain the importance of an air gap

A Heljan class 47 chassis for £39 Inc p+p

I was in there on Monday, all is fine by the looks of it.

Regarding the plastering, here is my hallway at home, the first picture shows a wall I rebuilt with a coat of thistle hardwall on, the brick wall with a piece of plasterboard on was hacked back to the brickwork because, someone had blocked the door up but used timber which was a inch and a half wider than the wall so it had a big bow in in it. The second photo shows the wall after plastering which took me a day to get enough undercoat plaster on it to straighten it out I'm pretty pleased with it so far.

There is an embossed sheet called clapboard siding which works reasonably well.

Haha that's a fair call, I've been doing it for 10years plus my father taught it to me when I was 15 so I've a fair amount of experience with it, but I've hardly done any over the last 3years and boy, did it show on my last job, by my own admission I had to reskim the first room, not too bad out of seven rooms, but I'm glad I'm a university studying civil engineering as I'm completely done with physical work if I can help it.

A tip for plastering is to get your first coat of skim as flat as possible and leave it until it starts pulling into the wall, it looks quite Matt when it's at this stage, and then put on your second coat. If you don't let the first coat stiffen up enough when you apply the second coat, you end up moving the first coat around, so when you start to polish up both coats it becomes almost impossible to get a flat finish even though it might feel nice and smooth. And if skimming over a previously plastered surface, don't fall into thinking that a thicker coat of PVA is better than a couple of thinner ones,as this will stop the plaster being pulled into the old surface, causing the first coat to move around behind the second coat. Hope this helps someone

Silicone is easy, apply a bead of it,then paint a solution of washing up liquid and water over it,then smooth if off using a tool of some description or your finger. The washing up liquid stops it sticking to anything other than the surface/join you want to seal.

Thank you for the info,I'll start checking.

Liking this thread, What would be the likely formation of the Cardiff to Crewe trains? Be good to know to see if I can make a rake from my kitmaster mk1's

I spoke to Dave a few weeks ago regarding the lms 10800 kit,he said he was retiring due to ill health. Hopefully someone will take the range on as I really like his kits, and I would like a 10800 kit.

A lima class 52 plus ultrascale wheels, brassmasters Detailing kit, and remotor kit for £50 I think this is OK.

That looks amazing Jamie.

As the topic suggests, I'm wondering if there are any civil engineers on here based in or around Swansea? Reason I'm asking is I'm studying this at university, and would like to gain some practical knowledge to go with what I'm learning in class. I'm not sure if this is an appropriate question to ask on here, but if you don't ask and all that.

I'm eventually going to convert the loft, so I'm happy with some temporary lights for the moment. Thank you

Has anyone got any recommendations for these? I would like one to fit in my attic so I can see when I go in thee to store/throw things away.

Just because I said sand is classed as aggregate, doesn't mean that I'd only use sand, ideally you need an aggregate mix of, 20mm to dust (including sand) mixed with opc, to a ratio of 5-1 unless there is a specific mix needed.

sand is classified as aggregate, it's just small particles of rock in reality.

I'm studying civil engineering, and it's been an eye opener in how short some new build properties are designed to last, 60 years in the case of some housing, so I'm all for keeping what's Already been built and reusing them, as it's just a massive waste of resources to keep pulling reusable buildings down.

I live near a beach, and did look into using driftwood, I think the major issue is the burning salt gives off an acidic gas, which reduces the life of the flue, I stand ready to be corrected on this though.

I have a Badger 200 airbrush but part of it is broken, I'll buy the replacement part and use it once I've got used to the process. Glad to hear that people get good results from the cheaper ones