jukebox

Very nice - thanks for posting. I did notice there's a platform clearance/fragility issue with the steps behind the cylinders on the unrebuilt version - they are gone in some shots, there in others, and hanging loose on the original condition model at one point. Something for operators to watch for when they do gauging trials on layouts for the first time...! Cheers Scott

The potential for this question to be misunderstood is proportional to whether the shooter was using a rifle, or a telephoto lens...

Why "sadly"? Glad I'm not easily offended, to be honest... Yours, Peasant Convict from the Antipodes

Sorted:

Darlington, please sir.

They'rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrre back! https://www.watoday.com.au/national/western-australia/bunnings-sausage-sizzles-return-in-wa-this-weekend-20200722-p55efi.html

So whilst living in the most isolated city on the planet is not a bad thing in the times of Covid, our state's strict hard border lock-down laws have put a massive throttle on both freight and passengers arriving into Western Australia. International postage transit times are just dire. Today, the third piece in a puzzle I started to assemble over three months ago finally arrived: Thanks to Gordon S of this parish for his kind agreement to redirect some "UK bidders only" phosphor bronze wire that was going for a song on eBay, and sellers in Taiwan and China selling pre-made micro plugs, and 2mm heat shrink, I now have assembled the materials I need to fit pick ups to the tenders of my Bachmann fleet. Those plugs in particular are a bargain; 20 pairs of male_female connectors, pre-made and ready to for for under £1.75; my eyesight, and the time I'd take to make them up out of the component parts, are worth 10 times that. Possibly x100, as the parts alone would cost me just as much here in Oz. The plan is to use the heat shrink to disguise the connector cables, and be able to detach the tenders via the plug and socket if needs be. I can see this being a campaign fitting - once I get on a roll, I will probably just barrel through and do them all so it is out of the way. Stay safe everyone. Cheers Scott

Same day as the surfing above, the daily commute from Manly to the City was "interesting": The Manly Ferry ‘Narrabeen’ punches through solid swell while crossing Sydney Heads on its run to Circular Quay - courtesy Dallas Kilponen via Twitter @dallaskilponen

Agree 100% - love the glue, but the clogging of the spray head (even when fastidiously cleaned) is a real let down.

I'd almost advocate going the other way, Gilbert - try filling that space in with a dark grey or brown, rather than sky. Worth a try. Cheers Scott

IMHO, the quality of the plaster is a big factor. If you can find a supply of Hydrocal, or failing that, Densite, you should be able to produce crisp, strong castings. I can recommend this video as a helpful tutorial: Good luck. Cheers, Scott

If the outside of the crank screw is a dome shape, how is it secured? If the answer is Loktite, then how it is removed if needs be?

One thought: The elasticated back **might** be important to holding them in place on your fingers. I wouldn't rule out a local jewellery supply store for those of you in the UK. That was how I found mine - I was buying a piercing saw and they were on display there...

That should do the trick. I bought three - stood there in the store, and figured how I might hold something, and that two may not always do the trick. I found a shot I took a few years back holding my Duke of Gloucester tender with them: Having said that, I only use one most of the time - it takes a little getting used to, as they do take away some of your dexterity. But worth mastering. Cheers Scott

I do rather like the oily sheen below the footplate on that WD, Gilbert. Looks just like it would spoil your jacket if you brushed past it too close on shed. Cheers Scott

A tip you may find useful if you are doing a lot of soldering: here in Oz we can get small leather "muffs" from jeweller's supply stores - cost about ‎£1 each. They will let you apply finger pressure whilst holding the brass securely right next to the tip of the soldering iron. I like them because they let you keep a sense of tactile pressure as you work. I'm sure you would find them in the UK - if not, they also are on eBay. Cheers Scott

Absolutely agree with this! I went about buying x8 Mk.4 coaches and a DVT to run with a DC Kits Class 89 I was building to make a complete King Cross-Leeds express... even with the space I have (7m x4m room) it was just an order of magnitude too big.

I'd imagine a live feed of Brighton Junction might be quite...er, entertaining on that count! Jesse might also be able to cross promote it as a foreign-language course....

September 29 1935. Silver Link enters service. The world is introduced to the A4. The idea of what a British steam locomotive can look like is fundamentally changed. Streamlined, both inside and out. The whole train is **silver**. All that, and it goes on to break existing speed records. I have read it described as being the equivalent of Concorde for 1935. Perception = changed.

Another option to manage the "yellowing" is post exposure filtering. Photoshop includes an option to apply the equivalent of colour correction filters to images - in your case varying degrees and densities of blue - which would tame the temperature colour cast. Cheers Scott

Sadly, the BR Report into the Taunton fire has the interior line drawing you would need. http://www.railwaysarchive.co.uk/eventsummary.php?eventID=225

In which case, I'll cast a vote for privet. It has given me satanic hayfever every spring for the last 38 years.

Curiously, the headboard shape does also seem to represent stairs...

In that first video, it's almost like he brought the catch out into the open just so you could see the fish's demise on camera...

My OCD is going off the scale: those wheel treads need a clean! (otherwise, very nice work - a beautiful piece of model engineering)