Mike G

Superb observation and utterly convincing modelling.

Mike

Rich

Does the chassis roll smoothly with no motor and the coupling rods on? If it does, then the gears are at fault. Before High level g/boxes turned up, anything with brass gears was treated to a toothpaste surprise. Some toothpaste mixed with a little motor oil, spread on all gears - not smoothered - and then connect it all up and let the motor run for 24 hrs. The toothpaste will smooth the edges of the gears so that they mesh easier. Obviously, a dunk in white spirit is needed to clean it all off. Just a thought...

Mike

Very convincing and in the same vien as the surrounding buildings. 

Fair play mate, fair play!

Like it, I take it the joins are from the limiting factor of the print length? You get a better picture of this things size on your Twitter photos. Will you be printing the doors as well?

Stay safe mate

Mike

Just found the photo of this before you started....Brother you have your work cut out for this! Can't wait to see the next steps...good luck

Mike

(I bought a Stannier 2-6-4 tank off ebay based on the pictures taken - an incomplete model - once received I realized why it was incomplete. Dreadful build quality and not salvageable, not in my lifetime anyway)

Where and when can we see this beaut perform? Totally convincing Dave.

Mike

Beautiful work Dave. Hope we get to see it run.

Mike

Tim

That's a cracking piece of chassis work. Is the other gearbox retrievable? Running it thru white spirit might clear the debris...just a thought.

Mike

That class 2 is awesome! Brilliant job on both build and weathering. 

Mr Newitt's 16t beasties are a joy to build (as are most/all of his wagon chassis). 

Mike

The Dapol body will adorn my 9f, it's been built for more years than I care to remember. I used the Comet upgrade kit for all the castings infront of the cab and added copper wire for the pipe work. There are a lot of really good ref books not to make mistakes with the pipework. The smoke deflectors came from the Jackson range - doubt if these are still available but ebay is a good starting point.

I also have to admit to holding a DJH 9f kit, which will probably never see completion!

As to the wheels..why not give Colin Seymour a ring and see if he'll skim the centre wheels for you? You will have to pay I'd have thought, but unless you know someone competent with a lathe there isn't much of a choice.

Just remember that the front drivers cannot have any significant side play at all and the rear driver must have side play. Unless your planning on scale curves...

Mike

Bill Bedford also does a 9f etch for the coupling rods (available from Eileens). They are correctly sized and allow for articulation. Bill also uses a novel way of lining the 3 layers up for soldering. But and a big but - no instructions. But once you give some thought to the build it should be obvious which way to go.

Another alternative is to see if Dave Bradwell will sell an etch for coupling and valve gear from his excellent 9f chassis kit.

https://traders.scalefour.org/DaveBradwell/

Were it my choice, I'd go Bradwell for the chassis kit. Expensive? More than other chassis kits but then there is a lot in the kit and its very high quality. I have one in my to do pile. I have failed on 2 other occasions with a 9f build but I used the Perserverance chassis - que wild laughter from certain qtrs - any way good luck.

Mike

Nice work Gav, and a good result for you. Personally, I don't like Dinghams. They are way too big and look, well, not good. But I do appreciate that they give reliable coupling and un-coupling with hidden electro-magnets. We use them on the new club layout and there's no more double shuffle as when S&W's are used. I never minded the double shuffle, but again I can understand those who don't. 

Love the experiments, keep it up mate.

Mike

"You saw my Thomas at the S4 test track!?"

You were chatting to some of the Dorset group and I didn't like to intrude...Thomas was just rounding the far curve. By the time I'd lapped the show you'd disappeared.

Mike

Very nice Gav. As I'm about to be come a Grampa for the first time, well worth watching. I think you'd get an even better result if you sprayed the vanish on. I use the Vallejo acrylic with a flow improver, can be used indoors without the annoying smells. If you're interested in the results I can send you some pics to your email, or you can ping me and ask. Liked the way your Thomas ran at Scale4.

Mike

WOW, you really have cracked on in a week! Looking forward to the 12/10. I should have a completed train to run, if all goes to plan!

Mike

That's really good, nothing uniform. Did you re-colour some of the ground work to give the different shades? What techniques did you use?

Mike

Dave

That looks spanking...is it the DJH kit?

Mike

Nice work mate.

Just gets better and better....

Mitchell designed kits are a joy to build. Finished one of these 5 years ago and I still have to put the wheels in it...a rather timely reminder! Built the Mitchell tender to go with it...hated putting in the flares.

Mike

Exceptional!

WONDERFUL!

Excellent - well done!

Sorry if this sounds picky...but the paint looks very thin on the cab sides, towards the bottom near the valance. As to the parts...not a scoobee doo!

Mike