devondynosoar118

I suspect that the 3rd one is indeed UPTON, a colliery in Pontefract. I wonder if there is a sharper version of this picture somewhere as it is a good one for variety.

In the 1941 shot, a number of the PO's are lettered ATKINSON & PRICKETT Ltd. He was a Hull merchant so no surprise a lot of his are in the yard! The one behind the shunter is S&D? FIS?ER the D maybe a B, will keep looking. Good list of identified coal merchants on here http://www.lightmoor.co.uk/BDLpdf_files/Private_Owner_Wagons_Index.pdf

If he's pedalling back from Amsterdam I would certainly stop and search him!

By every piece of track I mean every bit! You can solder small sections together at the fishplates. I also have separate power feeds for each set of points, fed from droppers at the toe end. I realise taking up large sections of track is a pain, also I have a second radius minimum for points, with the longest Peco ones for main lines. Hornby ones look quite sharp to my eye, I have not used their newer track however. Hope you get the running sorted as it is particularly annoying when trains won't run reliably, as I have had similiar problems I can sympathise.

Looks much more fun than late night telly...

Might I suggest a few minor changes? Ditch the foam underlay, it will cause more trouble than its worth. Track is best glued down IMO, to a good FLAT base, cork or I lay mine straight onto the board. Use a contact adhesive to glue it down, not too much in case you have to lift it in future but a good bead on the back of the track and on the board will hold it, put a few books on top to hold it in place. Ensure every section of track has a separate power feed to the DCC bus. This can be done with droppers or wired fishplates. How old is the track? Recycling has its limits if you want good running, old flexi track can be more bent than it looks and points over 20 years old, especially insulafrog types are crude by comparison to modern ones, and will perform accordingly. Screws are only suitable for carpentry, they have no place on track, for the reasons you have outlined! Well done on the split chassis conversion, hope the remaining chips stay un fried! Maybe a forum posts in "modelling questions" with pictures of all the problem areas of track will yield more knowledgeable help than mine.

Given the high standard of the rest, I would re do the back scene. Stuff in front looks great.

Mega shed grot in all those photos! Can't help identify anything, but soaking up the atmosphere.

We need a mini Wiggo, then a Faller car can knock him off his bike, then he can be hit by a passing tram. Many cyclists would say this was ultra realistic modelling....

Nice mustang! My mum learned to drive in one when she was in the US.

He's looking at all the "stripped" wires the dirty chap....

I don't get the moulded coal either. It is even worse removing it from the 2mm models! As a big prairie fan this one hits all the right notes for me, thanks for sharing.

Yes I agree buffalo, the chickens were really good. I think the pick axe wielders were the only other human figures that worked. How about a projected back scene, if it was not too bright I think the movement would complement train movements in the foreground. If you are still looking at an electro mechanical solution then I would look at these too: http://www.microflight.com/Online-Catalog/Actuators-and-Servos Nigel Cliffe has used their components to great effect in his 2mm scale dcc controlled couplings.

Well done! Nothing like a deadline to keep you going. I often let young people drive at shows, my son was very proud to be given a chance to drive a narrow gauge layout at Exeter when he was 6.

I would take any advice from Missy as very useful, she as made some amazing gear assemblies and signals in 2mm! The other alternative, which I feel has great potential for models is this optical system, a variation of the illusion "Pepper's Ghost" http://www.eyeliner3d.com/peppers_ghost_history.html

Not a single piece of evergreen strip in sight! Proper engineering all round. I like that we small gauge modellers get our materials in fractions of an inch from Eileen's Emporium, and you get yours by the foot or kilo from B&Q and the engineering shop!

Wow, I see the turkey arrived early this Chrismas! I particularly like the numerous coats of paint, dodgy electrics and missing parts. It reminds me of a beetle I scrapped, it's PO had re wired it using some telecom cable he got from work, unfortunately he only got one colour... I am sure this will look wonderful once you have worked your magic. As its panto season, " come on boys and girls, everyone shout 'we believe in the kit fairy..."

I found the flats really hard to build and mine are in the UFO pile, yours have come out well tho.

Some later additions to his buildings such as the 1927 canopy extension in Kingsbridge use steel beams. You would be hard pressed to tell the difference even in 7mm unless you were upside down under the canopy, an unlikely viewing position I would think. Fantastic work again, the brackets and valencing are both exquisite and complement the top quality work on the main building perfectly.

I agree, got to be worth a prototype. If you combined this with having yourself laser scanned, shrunk in CAD then laser printed to scale you could walk round your layout in miniature!

Picks jaw off floor.....

Is that the final shade of LT maroon I spy? Looks great, will be very smart when completed, engineering standards as high as usual. I want one..... Maybe I could swap for one of the kids......... :!

The dummy motion looked so good I thought it was working! Adding working inside motion is definitely in the "extreme" category for me.

Any plans to weather the 4mt?