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3 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

I’ve had to start somewhere 

 

On my build, Neil and I sat scratching our chins for a while wondering where the best place to start was, but once track began to go down and we had a defined point to work away from (in two directions in my case) it all seemed suddenly so much easier. Even if its not, it just seems that way.

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  • RMweb Gold

To think when I started this project my intention was to to use setrack insulated points and rely on the fishplates...oh how things change

 

Not only have I had to learn how to solder but also how to wire electrofrog points (or I’m trying at least)

 

If it wasn’t for the help and encouragement from you guys I don’t think I’d have gotten this far

 

Thank you all who have helped and encouraged me, it’s appreciated :)

 

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Oh and I’ve decided to stick with the big holes as it allows for a little adjustment.....and that’s the story I’m sticking with

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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Neat. A friends huge layout is controlled all by computer and touch screen and it all seems very slick and other-worldly to me! As you're aware, I've gone down a different route but your set up is very stylish.

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Work on the removable section has continued this evening.

 

All the droppers have been soldered to the individual lengths of track & points. I’ve also messed about with the sleepers around the point work.

 

I’ve gone against conventional methods and have used standard sleepers and cut down the rail joiners so I can keep the chair detail intact

 

Unfortunately I’ve not been able to maintain equally spaced sleepers but it’s the best I can do

 

I’m sure it’s not prototypical but it will have to do

 

Nearly ready to glue it in place once I’ve done one or two more things of course

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Edited by chuffinghell
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Before I glue the track in place I’ve been procrastinating over how best to uncouple the rolling stock

 

originally I intended to use Peco uncoupling ramps but I’m aware they are not that reliable and don’t look particularly good

 

secondly I thought about the good old ‘hand of God’ operation using one of these

 

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however it seems a lot of people opt for the @Brian Kirby method, so after a bit of research and tinkering I’ve come up with this 

 

 

Following tests I’ve found stacked three magnets on top of each other provides more than enough force to work when covered over with ballast

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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You add a steel dropper to the Bachmann brass coupler on this I think. is that right? Will it work with hooks on both vehicles? I could use a very simple auto-uncoupler but I really must base it on the Bachmann tension lock because I am not going to change the couplings of so many pieces of stock.

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10 minutes ago, Martin S-C said:

You add a steel dropper to the Bachmann brass coupler on this I think. is that right? Will it work with hooks on both vehicles? I could use a very simple auto-uncoupler but I really must base it on the Bachmann tension lock because I am not going to change the couplings of so many pieces of stock.

 

That’s right, just glued a bent staple to the Bachmann hook (Bachmann couplings are non ferrous)

 

I’m operating my stock in rakes so I only intend on doing it to each end of the rake (for now) although I’m going to do it to each end of my brake vans

 

I’m sure it works with droppers on both hooks, I only tried it with one hook because I hoped to take the hooks off the locos so wanted to see it it worked with just one hook

 

 

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Edited by chuffinghell
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I use handed couplings on my stock.

I've got Dingham electromagnets on Tinners Forge and a sliding permanent magnet on DM4MS.

I found with fixed magnets the couplings have to be the same height and the motion has to be smooth to keep the hooks engaged. Any slight difference in height and the hooks don't sit properly  and any slight jerk when passing over the magnet will cause an uncouple.

 

If you can, use something else other than permanent, fixed magnets. 

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I've been mulling over the Great Unanswered Question of Western Civilisation - that is, auto-uncoupling of model trains, and this device strikes me as a Very Good Idea Indeed. Its from TurboSnail of this parish (you may prefer to turn the sound off, I found the music distracting).
 

 

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12 minutes ago, Martin S-C said:

I've been mulling over the Great Unanswered Question of Western Civilisation - that is, auto-uncoupling of model trains, and this device strikes me as a Very Good Idea Indeed. Its from TurboSnail of this parish (you may prefer to turn the sound off, I found the music distracting).
 

 

 

I’ve seen this by @TurboSnail and you’re quite right about it being a good idea, In fact it’s quite brilliant and I really can’t see any flaws with it

 

I just didn’t want anything visible between the rails because I’m a fussy ar$e :rolleyes:

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1 hour ago, Martin S-C said:

I've been mulling over the Great Unanswered Question of Western Civilisation - that is, auto-uncoupling of model trains, and this device strikes me as a Very Good Idea Indeed. Its from TurboSnail of this parish (you may prefer to turn the sound off, I found the music distracting).

 

46 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

 

I’ve seen this by @TurboSnail and you’re quite right about it being a good idea, In fact it’s quite brilliant and I really can’t see any flaws with it

 

I just didn’t want anything visible between the rails because I’m a fussy ar$e :rolleyes:

 

Thanks for the kind words. It does seem to work pretty well, it's certainly very cheap and requires no modifications to rolling stock. Setting up the cams can be a faff, but once it's done it's fine. If I was starting again though, I think I would agree with chuffinghell and get rid of the visible bits between the rails in favour of a magnet system, at least for the more visible areas of a layout. There are only so many ways one can disguise it before it starts looking contrived. 

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2 hours ago, Stubby47 said:

......... I found with fixed magnets the couplings have to be the same height and the motion has to be smooth to keep the hooks engaged. Any slight difference in height and the hooks don't sit properly  and any slight jerk when passing over the magnet will cause an uncouple.

 

If you can, use something else other than permanent, fixed magnets. 

 

You’re spot on regarding the coupling heights

 

In case of emergency I may have to resort  to the ‘hand of god’ technique :lol:

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7 minutes ago, TurboSnail said:

Thanks for the kind words. It does seem to work pretty well, it's certainly very cheap and requires no modifications to rolling stock.

 

I’m a firm believer in credit where it’s due, your method is quite elegant in its simplicity

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12 minutes ago, TurboSnail said:

 

 

Thanks for the kind words. It does seem to work pretty well, it's certainly very cheap and requires no modifications to rolling stock. Setting up the cams can be a faff, but once it's done it's fine. If I was starting again though, I think I would agree with chuffinghell and get rid of the visible bits between the rails in favour of a magnet system, at least for the more visible areas of a layout. There are only so many ways one can disguise it before it starts looking contrived. 

Its the old school-ness of it that appeals to me, bearing in mind the model that inspires my own project, when that was created and the general ethos of that period. I like the fact its an uncoupling ramp, so beloved of my Tri-Ang era childhood. There is a similar device with a slightly more complex construction by another RMWebber which uses a lifting panel that is a set of dummy sleepers and ballast that, apart from a small gap either side, is almost invisible. That is probably the style I will go for.

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4 minutes ago, Martin S-C said:

There is a similar device with a slightly more complex construction by another RMWebber which uses a lifting panel that is a set of dummy sleepers and ballast that, apart from a small gap either side, is almost invisible. That is probably the style I will go for.

 

That was my original plan, but I didn't fancy cutting sections out of the ballast I'd already done!

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Busy week at work this week so I’ve not done anything on the layout (that’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it) 

 

However having been both impressed and inspired by the excellent progress being made by @Andrew P I’ve pulled my finger out and attempted to wire up one of my points

 

I must stress that electrofrog points have always scared me, however I appear to have mastered it, including the successful modification to a Y point

 

All the connections have been soldered ‘on the bench’ except for the frog wire because I didn’t want to solder up in the air upside down 

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Bloody hell! I’ve done it right

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A very crude test

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Edited by chuffinghell
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2 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

Busy week at work this week so I’ve not done anything on the layout (that’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it) 

 

However having been both impressed and inspired by the excellent progress being made by @Andrew P I’ve pulled my finger out and attempted to wire up one of my points

 

I must stress that electrofrog points have always scared me, however I appear to have mastered it, including the successful modification to a Y point

4A7DB813-1FA8-4269-8ED1-F269DB141535.jpeg

7A39606C-93C9-42BA-B4E8-6A6A325E388A.jpeg

DD7FEE71-4747-4B9D-B4F7-4E236D4AAFF9.jpeg

6E341EBF-0BBC-49D9-AD1C-938FF8509C78.jpeg

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Looking very good mate, good to see such progress.

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The plans this weekend are

 

1) glue down the track down on (and over) the join of the removable section

 

2) cut the tracks across the join

 

3) wire up the removable section and test

 

4) tidy up the mess I’ve made in the spare/layout room

 

number four on the list is not a priority.....well not mine :P

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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Hmmm now the question is....have I got enough weight on the track while the glue sets? :blink:

 

Obviously the weights were originally used laying down but I’ve had to put them upright on the point and engine shed base to make sure the load is equally distributed and sit level at key points (no pun intended)

 

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Also do a good test of my carpentry and if the single bracket underneath is up to the job

 

Whether the removable section is on the floor or not in the morning will give me my answer

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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