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Cross Street - Urban N Gauge


bmthtrains - David
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First train wont be for a while, need to slowly purchase 15 points and experiment with point motors first :unsure:

 

The track design has altered slightly - I removed the central bay platform as it was just too short and made the station design a little awkward. This has been replaced by a crossover further up the track and a bi-directional freight loop that passes to the outer side of the island platform. This gives me a bit more operational interest, and has only removed 1 short DMU siding in the storage yard.

 

David

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Guest oldlugger

An excellent looking future layout David, and hats off to the design! I really like the flowing look to the track plan. Good luck with it...

 

Simon

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As I await the point motors to arrive for experimentation, I could do with some advice on signalling.

 

I've drawn below what I think (with my basic knowledge of signalling) the correct arrangement should be, but would appreciate some feedback. Arrows mark the direction of travel.

 

post-6666-0-07681300-1311880358_thumb.jpg

 

Signal A is a double signal, left hand for straight on into platform 1, right hand for using the crossover to access platform 2, with the route indicator showing the route onto the loop line.

 

Signal B is for platform 2 departures, with the route indicator for the crossing (as per modern practice, the line is signaled for bi-directional working), while signal C is for reverse platform 1 departures (again, for bi-directional working, so rarely used).

 

Signal D is for traffic exiting the loop and rejoining the main line. Main signal is for forward travel onto the main line, the route indicator is for trains using the cross-over, while access to the head shunt is controlled by the shunting signal below the main.

 

This looks okay to me, but I am sure there are signalling experts who can help make sure this is correct. In particular, as this is all on a viaduct, Signal A may well be on a gantry, so if anyone has any photos of junction signals like this in that situation that would be very useful!

 

David

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David

Signal A would have one head with two feather positions, The feathers would only light for routes B & C off that signal and for the left hand line, or route A, you would just have the main aspect on. ( you would only have two heads if the second one applied to the second line shown below it ).

Signal B needs to be on a cantilevered gantry to place the head on the left hand side of the platform 2 running line.

Looking good ;)

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With limited funds over the summer, I've managed to purchase the track for the scenic section only. This will still allow me to wire the entire layout (even though its less than half complete), and also learn about and install the point motors. Progress is steady but satisfying - with the tram line wired, the track on the scenic section, and several of the buildings completed, I'm feeling confident this is going to work out just how I expected.

 

The board has been sat on my dining room table since I built it last month, and due to its compact size, doesn't at all get in the way - a much greater balance between model railways and 'contemporary living' than I was able to achieve with Ring Road, and the layout still seems large - you really can fit so much in to 6 feet in N - the cars on the dummy road surface give you and idea of the scale.

 

I've also decided to use dummy colour light signals rather than LED ones. I looked at the complexity of the set up, and I would end up building an actual signalling system rather than modelling a representation of one, and I am definitely a 'driver' rather than a 'signalman' modeller, with the station I want to be able to start and stop at will, rather than having to plan my signalling moves first.

 

David

 

post-6666-0-77205400-1312312796_thumb.jpg

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This will still allow me to wire the entire layout (even though its less than half complete), and also learn about and install the point motors.

 

David

 

 

I hope you're going to solder these wires <_< <_< and not do your usual trick of jamming the wires under the track and gluing them in place. :P :P

 

Oh and its looking great.

 

Cheers

 

Neal.

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Hello, looking forward to seeing the layout develop, its looking good already. Just a quick question, looking at your signal diagram, are you planning on using 2 aspect signals? For the urban environment your building, I'd imagine that busy suburban railway would use at least 3 aspect in real life, if not 4.

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Hi Stu,

 

I'm deep into researching signals as I type - bought the ABC modern signalling handbook today, I want the signals to be correct for the exact situation I'm modelling, rather than just the 'a signal goes here' approach.

 

So far it looks like the signals will be triple aspect, with a slightly different configuration to the plan I drew above. There might have to be a banner repeater on the platform as it is curved, and to allow bi-directional running, a different approach to signalling the cross-over. I will also have the correct (as far as I can get) number system on the signal posts, and the appropriate 'off' indicators.

 

I started planning the signals now as I was thinking of using working ones, and would have to plan the wiring into the control panel at this early construction stage, but even though I won't be onto signalling probably until after Christmas, I've got too engrossed in it and am enjoying learning something new!

 

David

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David I think this is going to be a top layout and you catch the 'atmosphere' really well. Think it will be great to just sit in front with a cool drink and watch trains go by.. really admire your scenic works and the general blending.. Looking forward to seeing more of this story..

Tom

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I'm glad your enjoying learning about signals, it's suprising how interesting some coloured lights can be! You may not need a Banner Repeater, although i'd like to see someone make a working N gauge one, it partly depends on the line speed and what's blocking the view of the signal. A driver has to have a clear, unbroken view for a certain amount of time on approach to a signal, at full line speed. I'm not sure how many seconds the minimum is, I seem to think it's about 7 seconds. If anything gets in the way then a Banner Repeater has to be installed. There is an alternative to a Banner, a Co-acting signal can be installed, its position can be either below the 'main' signal, or to the side, or even above, it all depends on the location. In modelling terms, a working co-acting signal would be alot easier installing than making a Banner from scratch, unless your up for the challenge!

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Hi David,

 

Have you considered automatic signals? I have used some of Heathcote electronics wizardry (no connection just happy customer) and find it fantastic, the signals are fully automated but i have the option to manually operate them with minimal wiring involved.

 

Cheers

 

Graham.

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David,

 

If he is still making signals then it might be worth contacting Roger Murray. I know he has scaled back his work but he was still producing N gauge signals (including working feathers) 3-4 years back. He will take a track plan and advise appropriate signalling if you want him to as well.

 

Cheers, Mike

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Hmm, food for thought gentlemen, thank you!

 

While pondering signals, tomorrow I will be tackling the first point motor - looks simple* enough so far. (*I may regret saying that)

 

David

 

 

Point motors are not as daunting as they look. Good luck with your experiment tomorrow. What type are you using on your layout?

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Hi Stephen,

 

I've got Gaugemaster SEEP motors, look pretty easy for a beginner like myself.

 

Happily, I can report that the track on the scenic side is now fully wired (and soldered!) and operating well. I need to get two pairs of sockets to connect to the controller, but this means that I can have an experiment with the point motors later.

 

David

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Good choice on the Seeps.

 

I'm going to be using those as well, as I was impressed with the one I bought and experimented with! (I wired it up right first time and got it all working... Needless to say I was amazed!). Threw nice and easily both ways, and remarkably simple to set up which is always a good thing. Have you seen this topic: Link? It has a brilliant little guide on using a wooden clothes peg of all things to ensure correct alignment for the Seep Motor.

 

At the rate your going David, Cross Street will be mostly done by Christmas!

 

Ross

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Nice Work David. I used Peco motors for Neuvic and they do the job. I would have chosen other motors had I put more thought into it. I have Cobalt motor I am trying on the scenic module. It is like a Rolls Royce. Smooth reliable operation, very flexible and if you do not enjoy soldering you can just clip the wires right in!

 

Is the vehicle in the siding one the N gauge snow ploughs?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm having an interesting experience ballasting the layout this weekend.

 

I've been following my usual method - PVA through a dropper on standard fine woodland scenics grey ballast, but for some reason it is just not playing ball. I've been trying to think what is different this time round - perhaps that I'm using balsa wood on the viaduct, perhaps that it is summer and very hot in my dining room - something is affecting the ballast.

 

What is happening is the ballast is drying as normal (though perhaps a bit faster than normal), but it is remaining very crumbly. I've gone over the entire stretch of track 4 times with glue (drying in between, and having hoovered off the excess), making it thicker each time in the hope it will stick. I've now sprayed the ballast with 'track dirt' for weathering, and to see if it helps hold it together, but in places it is still just very crumbly - more annoying now, as it crumbles off leaving unpainted ballast showing through!

 

Whatever the cause, I've ordered some scenic cement to spray on it all, hoping this will seal it in on the surface. All very odd - looks good though, much happier with my efforts compared to Ring Road, but only if it stops crumbling!

 

David

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