gobbler Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 Cheers for your tips John I like the sound of your ground pins for handles May be next time, as I've got some MJT etchings I bought specially for this. 'I love the smell of napalm' or should that be stretched sprue? The sprue was for the luggage compartment window bars Have just started on the Clerestory roofing, but I'm doing no more tonight. Cheers for watching Scott 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Well I hope your MJT handles are easier to use than the Comet ones. Way too much of a faff for me. You bars look good. However, you could use Evergreen 0.020" rod - easier I think. I did this: Just goes to show there's more than one way to do things. John 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 (edited) A few more bits done The Clerestory started. The top is made of 2 x 0.3mm thk with the outer layer Marked and cut out. Glued the plain piece of 0.3 to the top sides. Then the window cut outs on top. Glued 0.8mm thk 7mm wide strip up against the windows to keep it as straight as possible. Once dried I glued 3off 1mm x 0.8mm thk strips around the radii. As below When dry a smear of my squadron green as below A bit of a light sand, then primer to see where I'm at I'll repeat the above process until I'm happy with the outcome. Cut the small top lights out of the Clerestory That's it for tonight Cheers for watching Scott Edited January 18, 2018 by gobbler 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 21, 2018 Author Share Posted January 21, 2018 (edited) All the top lights have now been cut out of the Clerestory and glazed. The top roof is made of 3 x a 0.8mm thk strips. Then as before with the roof sides, squadron green putty, sand, prime and repeat until I was satisfied with the finish. Have now completed both ends, will need a little tidy up, but are ok Now to focus on the bottom side. Sole bars and buffer beams are now on. Sole bars are set back 2mm from the bottom edge. The buffer beams will have the angles either side put on when dry. Whilst the is drying, I will be focusing on the bogies Scott Edited January 21, 2018 by gobbler 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 21, 2018 Author Share Posted January 21, 2018 A start has been made on the bogies today. They are of a GE design as far as I can tell. Nothing like a Fox or Gresley bogie. If they turn out too spindly or if I think they're unusable in any way. I'll spend a few quid on some other bogies. Whilst we're working on the underside has anyone got any pictures of air/vacuum cylinders or batteries if used. Thanks Scott 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 You might find this of interest. It is 7mm and not scratchbuilding per se but I have added scratch details. I'm using an Ian Kirk parts pack - an aid to scratchbuilding really. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/116068-ian-kirk-7mm-gresley-52-6-corridor-coaches/ It has been on the back burner because of all the other jobs I have to do but I have been giving it the occasional prod lately. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 Done a bit more The drawing below is a snippet from the superb Nick Campling book LNER carriages vol 1. So I've started. I do one step per pair at a time as I'm not sure how they're going to come out. 1. Cut the basic shape out 2. Mark and pilot hole the wheel centres 3. Add some 0.3mm thk strip over the axle 4. Open out axle hole and fit top hat bearing 5. Nip out the bit on the bottom of the axle (technical.......not) 6. Cut out bogie top blank I suppose next, cut out the spaces for the wheels and assemble the bogie After I'm happy with how they run, start adding more detail I.e. Thin strip on the top and bottom of the bogie frame to make it look like an "i" section and add axle boxes.... Ah yes the axle boxes, does any one have a picture of the axle box they can post on this thread? Cheers Scott 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 (edited) A good source of drawings for LNER coaches is: http://www.isinglass-models.co.uk/index.html I didn't see any GER drawings but only did a qiuick skim. I actually wanted Nicks book but couldn't find it for reasonable money. All the good books are out of print it seems. John Edited January 22, 2018 by brossard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 (edited) One more little bit, couldn't resist. Not going to do anymore until they're fully dried and hardened. Nighty nite all Scott Edited January 22, 2018 by gobbler 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glover Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Very nice work Scott. I will be interested to see how the bogies work out. I built a set, from plastic, many years ago but, let's say, the likes of Hornby, Bachmann etc seem to be better at it! Best of luck. Glover Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbowilts Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Very nice work Scott. I will be interested to see how the bogies work out. I built a set, from plastic, many years ago but, let's say, the likes of Hornby, Bachmann etc seem to be better at it! Best of luck. Glover Granted Hornby & Bachmann do make good bogies but what if they don’t do what you want, such as these GER bogies? Keep up the good work, Scott. Just one question, what thickness plastic are you using? Regards, Tim T Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Those bogies are taking shape well. I hope someone comes through with some clear pictures and/or drawings. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 Cheers John, got my fingers crossed. Had a trawl earlier, the only clear pictures seem to be of the Gresley type Anyway........Done a spot more on the bogies tonight, they seem to have firmed up quite nicely. They're really free-wheeling as well when the wheels (Bachman coach wheels {bag of 12} three coaches worth) are put into the brass cups...........which is nice. Only job tonight is to make a start on the axle boxes, some 2.5mm x 3.5mm x 0.8mm thk squares super glued on and back filled with my squadron green. Tomorrow I will give them a light clean up and probably start on making the bogie sides look like they're made from an "i" beam Cheers Scott 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 Granted Hornby & Bachmann do make good bogies but what if they don’t do what you want, such as these GER bogies? Keep up the good work, Scott. Just one question, what thickness plastic are you using? Regards, Tim T Cheers for the PM Tim Just a post to say that the bulk is done in 0.8 thk styrene sheet. I find it doesn't look as bulky as 1mm but is just as sturdy. Cheers Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 (edited) Evenin'all Gave the bogies a light clean up, considering these are the first time I've had a go at building these "skinny" GE type bogies, feel encouraged to continue. (2nd time at bogies, because the 1st time was on my CCT in the suburban coach thread, which came out ok, I think) Now to start building up the details 1st. Giving the frames the "i" section Made from 0.25mm thk styrene sheet about 2.5mm wide. Crits welcome as all ways Tea time now I may post more progress later TTFN Scott Edited January 24, 2018 by gobbler 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 A wee bit more done tonight. You know what they say "slowly, slowly, catchy monkey" Anyway cleaned the axle boxes up a bit more and started on some of the box detail. From I can see on the drawing there appears to be a raised bit along the bottom of the box and also a couple of bolts either side. That's it for now, need for everything to harden up again. Crits/ ideas welcome Scott 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted January 26, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 26, 2018 I though they said, ‘softly, softly, catchy monkey’? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 Please excuse Regularity; he's on day release from the Pre-Grouping Pedants topic. So, it's commonly "softly, softly catchee monkey", but there seem to be older forms: Although the phrase is attested with non-standard catchee mainly from the twentieth century, Eric Partridge suggests it was probably coined in the late nineteenth.] Quotations from the mid-nineteenth century use catch or caught the monkey. Benham's Book of Quotations suggests the phrase originated from black English, but this is uncertain Thus spake Wiki But I digress .... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buhar Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 But I digress .... Really! You? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 Only another 6 to make Tiny and fiddly but should look ok What do you think? Scott 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 (edited) I've made springs by layering strips of plastic. When hard slice to the desired width. I think I saw it in MRJ HTH John Edited January 26, 2018 by brossard 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 I do mine slightly differently Strips of evergreen 0.25mm thk x 0.75 wide cut to various lengths These were:- 20.5mm, 18mm, 13mm, 9mm & 6.5mm. I've found it keeps the layers of the spring. Once all dry, I'll put a slight curve in them. your system looks good, never thought of doing that Scott 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 I've made springs by layering strips of plastic. When hard slice to the desired width. I think I saw it in MRJ HTH John What do you slice with? Razor saw? What is MRJ? Cheers scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 (edited) I used a Northwest Shortlines Chopper: https://www.amazon.com/Northwest-Short-Line-Chopper-II/dp/B004P3SRI0 Useful when cutting a lot of identical parts. Model Railway Journal, the epitome in modelling magazines I think. As long as you get there in the end. John Edited January 26, 2018 by brossard 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Signaller69 Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 Very nice work Scott. Regarding the bogies, the East Anglia Railway Museum have a GER suburban coach with original bogies which may be the same as those you are building; they can be seen (though not in mega detail) on their site photo: http://p.earm.co.uk/2/boston-coach Martyn. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now