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N15class

Entry posted by N15class in GWR St Peters Hall.

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I have had couple of days or half days back at my bench. The chassis has had all the castings etc fitted, just need to decide how I will do the pickups. I think I might try some back scratchers if I can find my copper strips.

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It will then be of to the paint shopearly in the week. The wheels will need painting too, which I am having a little trouble with rust at the moment. Not sure if it is residue flux fumes or the hi humidity here, or a combination of both.

 

I had blued the wheels and put general purpose oil on them (3in1 type), but coming back the the bench after 2 days they were all going rusty. I have re blued them and they are now in a sealed pot with a load of oil, should be fun when I paint them.

 

I still need to do the side control on the bogie I expect it will be along the my normal lines centre block and 3 coil springs.

 

It will be back to the body soon. I am hoping to get this well on the way to being finished come the end of next week. I am being a little sidetrack at the moment, I have too much on the go I think. There are 3 plastic wagons and 3 locos. I know plastic wagons are easy but I started messing with them, will update those soon.

 

Looking at the painting I am more or less certain I will go for early mixed traffic. Any one know of photos on the web of Mod Halls in this livery?

 

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Castle

Hi N15,

 

That is looking like a model of a Modified Hall and not a dip painted blob as it did - great stuff!

 

No. 6990 Witherslack Hall has been in Lined black in preservation and it looks like a well researched job too having had a nose through Google images.

 

I hope this helps!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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N15class

Hi N15,

 

That is looking like a model of a Modified Hall and not a dip painted blob as it did - great stuff!

 

No. 6990 Witherslack Hall has been in Lined black in preservation and it looks like a well researched job too having had a nose through Google images.

 

I hope this helps!

 

All the best,

 

Castle

Thanks for that Castle, I have found a couple it does look splended.

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Kev_Lewis

Great work there, Peter. It's coming along really nicely.

 

What method of compensation does it have?

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N15class

Great work there, Peter. It's coming along really nicely.

 

What method of compensation does it have?

Thanks Kev

It has side beams on the front to axles. Picture 3 you can see one of the beems on the centre axle and in piture 2 it shows the enlarged holes fore the movement.

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Kev_Lewis

Ah, I thought so, but thought it best to ask of confirmation.

 

Do you have much experience with this method? is it effective?

 

I ask because the Scorpio 14xx/58xx kit I built last year is intended to have a simular arrangement, but I chickened out and built it rigid. Now though, I have a second to build and after reading Geoff Holt's book I was considering trying sprung hornblocks.

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N15class

Hi Kev

Ah, I thought so, but thought it best to ask of confirmation.

 

Do you have much experience with this method? is it effective?

 

I ask because the Scorpio 14xx/58xx kit I built last year is intended to have a simular arrangement, but I chickened out and built it rigid. Now though, I have a second to build and after reading Geoff Holt's book I was considering trying sprung hornblocks.

I Have used this a few times without any problems, although it is not true 3 point compensation. I have also used sprung hornblocks. The are fine if you have the front and rear compressed to the stops and any in the middle given a little upwards movement. I have never done one fully ballanced on its springs.

Compensation is the easier of the options. I would not mind trying a CSB chassis.

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Kev_Lewis

Thanks for sharing your knowledge, Peter.

 

There was a long discussion on OzzyO's Workbench thread about CBS and I have to be honest, most of it went right over my head.

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N15class

I know the feeling there. I think the principle is actually quite simple, but is made difficult by needing to know the weight and centre of gravity before you start.

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buffalo

I know the feeling there. I think the principle is actually quite simple, but is made difficult by needing to know the weight and centre of gravity before you start.

You don't, just take an educated guess at the weight and build/ballast to achieve the CoG where it should be. If your initial weight guess is wrong, just use thicker or thinner wire.

 

Nick

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N15class

You don't, just take an educated guess at the weight and build/ballast to achieve the CoG where it should be. If your initial weight guess is wrong, just use thicker or thinner wire.

 

Nick

So how do you work out the suspension points, not the heights thats obvious. The longitudinal ones so the outer wheels carry the right proportion of the weight and unload the centres ones slightly. On a simple 0-6-0?

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buffalo

So how do you work out the suspension points, not the heights thats obvious. The longitudinal ones so the outer wheels carry the right proportion of the weight and unload the centres ones slightly. On a simple 0-6-0?

There are numerous examples on the clag site though you'll need to scale the 4mm examples. See this page which also includes a choice of spreadsheet tools for DIY use.

 

Nick

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N15class

There are numerous examples on the clag site though you'll need to scale the 4mm examples. See this page which also includes a choice of spreadsheet tools for DIY use.

 

Nick

Thanks for that Nick I have looked a clag site it seems only to give ready worked out examples not how to to work it out unless I missed something. Non of the locos I want are listed in their examples.

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