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The station building: Walls and gables


Mikkel

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Here’s an update on Farthing’s main station building, modelled on the 1910 prototype at Newbury (see this post for details). This post summarizes work on the walls and gables. There have been other developments, will update on those later.


 

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Although the structure at Newbury is still with us there have been numerous detail changes over the years. Above is a selection of those I have spotted. Most changes appear to have been made after the station was built, so I’m going with the original GWR drawing.

 

 

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The GWR drawing was imported and re-drawn in Inkscape, allowing me to cut the brick sheets in my Silhouette cutting machine.

 

 

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The Silhouette can’t cut styrene deeper than 10 thou, so it essentially scribes the outline on the back of the brick sheet (not the front, too bumpy) and I then cut through with a scalpel. 

 

 

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The brick sheets are SEF. They aren’t ideal for the Newbury brickwork, I had planned to use Slater’s, but the first batch of Slater’s crumbled in my hands and the next batch didn’t cut well in the Silhouette.
 
 

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The outer “skin” for the sides were then ready.
 

 

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A first inner layer was added, using 1mm Foamex from Green Stuff World. The Silhouette cuts this well but again only partly through, so more scalpel work followed.

 

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The first layer of Foamex fitted behind the brick skin. I gave up replicating the prototype’s bullnose bricks and subtle profile around the window edges.  I did try, using good advice from RMwebbers, but couldn’t achieve a convincing look. 

 

 

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Instead, the brick edges around the windows were simply indicated by indenting the foam with a suitable tool from a scribing set. It’s the biggest compromise on the model but I can live with it.

 

 

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The basic sides and ends, a DIY kit of sorts.

 

 

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I then set about adding the Bath stone embellishments.  Here, different types of styrene rod have been joined to represent the profile of the lintel bands.

 

 

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The lintels were cut on my Silhouette, with decorative parts fashioned from triangular rod and small “V’s” cut from Evergreen sheet. 3D prints would have been more accurate, but I enjoy piecing things together on my own – despite the compromises.

 

 

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The prototype stone sills had an overhanging lip, replicated with laminated strips of styrene. Try not to get too excited by these riveting photos :-)

 

 

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The parts were sprayed with Plasti-kote primer, and later painted Dark Sand (Vallejo 70.847).

 

 

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The walls were painted using a new approach I hadn’t tried before. Will post separately on that.

 

 

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Next the roof bands were stuck on.


 

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Then the lintel- and sill bands were fitted (or is it “string courses”, my vocabulary fails me here).

 

 

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The plinth, with the blue bricks that were such a distinctive feature on 20th century GWR structures.

 


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And finally the lintels were stuck in place. I cheated as they should be flush with the brickwork, but that would have entailed some very tricky cutting of the SEF sheets which I think wouldn't have looked neat. The vertical ornaments help conceal the dodge.

 

 

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I then set about decorating the gables. Won’t take long, I thought.

 

 

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But there followed much faffing about with bits of styrene, combining various shapes to compose the ornamentation. 

 

 

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The faux gables including raised brick courses above the lintels, and the ornamentation coming together.

 

 

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The decorative “pinnacles” (what's the word?) were tricky, being hexagonal yet slim. I first fitted strips of brick sheet on a hexagonal Plastruct rod, but the thickness of the SEF sheets made them overscale.

 

 

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So instead I just scribed the hex rod directly to indicate mortar courses, as seen here. Far from perfect, but it blends in OK. Decorative balls were made from pinheads, stolen at night from my wife’s sewing table. She knows, but pretends not to.

 

 

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There were two gables, so it took a while. If deconstructed each gable would consist of 101 separate bits. Probably not unusual for a scratchbuild, it’s just that normally we don’t count!

 

 

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An overview of all the brick sides. My camera exaggerates the colours. A few final details (downpipes etc) will be added later.


 

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The Bath stone was looking a bit plain (bottom), so was lightly weathered (top), though the camera doesn't show it well. I want the structure to look new, i.e. within a few years of construction. [Note to self: Vallejo Pigments Natural Sienna 73.105 + MIG Panzer Grey Fading P035].

 

 

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At 83 cms this is the longest structure I have built. After years of happily snapping small layouts, I’m struggling with the photographic challenges of such a long structure.

 

 

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First passengers have arrived! (click image for larger size). I had planned to divide the structure into 2-3 separate sections for easy storage but am now thinking it’s easier to just build it as one whole unit.

 

 

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A dry run with all sides in place. The windows are almost ready to fit, and parts are being cut for the interior carcass. More on that later.

 

Edited by Mikkel

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  • RMweb Gold
23 hours ago, goldngreen said:

Brilliant, inspiring and informative. Thanks

 

Thanks, very kind of you. The windows are going in now and it feels like I'm over the hill on this build. Still a good way to go though.

 

It's good to see you on here again, I'm off to see how things are going at Marlott.

 

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Mikkel

Posted (edited)

On 04/01/2024 at 10:38, David Bigcheeseplant said:

I draw the vertical mortar course first working out the corners window/door openings with the quarter brick queen closures using array tools. then fill in the other vertical mortar lines using the array tool again. it is only when all the verticals have been done I do the horizontal courses.

 

If I was doing laser cutting then I would just draw one line that the laser will follow on 3D printing I need to specify not only the width of the mortar but the depth too. In Fusion 360 I can set parameters so both the Hight of bricks, width and depth of the mortar can be set and changed if not right, I originally did the mortar at .1mm depth and width but although you could see it on the print it would have been impossible to paint, so changed it to .2mm wide and .3mm depth.

 

Also as I said before the height of the bricks was not 76.2mm (3")  high but 84mm high so had to adjust the height of my bricks to match the overall height.   

 

I can see how painting will require a steady hand. E.g. as the bands are printed with the rest they cannot be coloured separately first.

 

I see that your print accommodates the in-set downpipes. It's quite a stylish little design feature. I discovered it too late for my build, serves me right for not paying attention.

 

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Edited by Mikkel
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I can print the shell without the stone heads, cills and feature courses which I might do if I don't get the painting right. The recessed downpipes were normally square 4" sitting in a 4.5" gap, I am surprised to see a round downpipe in the photo.

David 

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Mikkel

Posted (edited)

I suspect the round downpipes are replacements. Maybe even recent ones, Newbury has just been renovated. Some of the sills have also been modified (somewhat crudely), probably to avoid them deteriorating further. Photos are from June 2023.

 

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Edited by Mikkel
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I was thinking much the same and that round pipe doesn't even look like painted iron, it looks more like plastic, certainly the top half.

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Mikkel,

 

Having just caught-up with your new build, I can only say that you're creating another "Masterpiece in Miniature!" I can't wait to see how you manage to set up the finished Farthing Layout.

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Thank you very much Dana. How it will all be set up is still a bit hazy, but for the time being I can get a short end to end run if I mobilise our two adjustable-height work desks + the dining table! Which is obviously not going to be an everyday occurrence, I have my small layouts for that.

 

We'll see what happens beyond that, we are thinking of moving to a larger flat 😉

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  • RMweb Gold

That really makes it come alive. There's a nice depth to the window frames.

 

I see that the windows are white, so I assume that you are modelling the post-chocolate period. Did you ever discover approximately when the chocolate was abandoned? I'm thinking around WW1, but haven't examined it systematically.

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Hi Mikkel

the windows are very pale cream as this model is for the BR period  as this matches rolling stock I already have. 

 

As for the GWR chocolate painted windows and doors I have not looked into it recently but I think you are right probably around the WW1 period but maybe early 1920s 

David

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18 hours ago, David Bigcheeseplant said:

I have been adding the windows to my model and getting the paint brush out.

For any model to look so good under close photographic scrutiny is remarkable - splendid work.🙂

 

My only concern is that your brickwork looks much more interesting than the real thing, seen on earlier photos in this thread, where the texture is far less pronounced.

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My only concern is that your brickwork looks much more interesting than the real thing, seen on earlier photos in this thread, where the texture is far less pronounced.

 

Getting the brickwork right is tricky I printed a section on my resin printer and the detail is very fine although I cant do the whole building as my printer is too small, I purchased an FDM printer which I could fit the whole building on, although the detail is not so crisp, although maybe I can adjust the settings to get it better. 

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On 05/01/2024 at 08:05, Mikkel said:

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Railway station brickwork tends to be of a high quality, with well-defined brick shapes and thin quality mortar which is hardly ever recessed from the brick face.

 

In 4mm scale, it is probably most easily reproduced by paper printing.

 

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Mikkel

Posted (edited)

On 14/01/2024 at 19:45, David Bigcheeseplant said:

I have been adding the windows to my model and getting the paint brush out.

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I've just realized that Iain Robinson - one of my modelling heroes - has built an excellent 4mm model of Princes Risbourough. He has posted photos of it on Instagram (sic), if anyone is interested. Registration not needed. This link goes to the first photo, click right to see his solution to the distinctive "Westbury" style:

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/C20cQy3sQS1/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

 

 

Edited by Mikkel
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Thanks Mikkel on Ian Robinson models.

I have now added the small toilet windows and louvres to the gents loo which are 3D printed.

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