Copenhagen to Penzance by rail
Back in June I had some work to do in London. I live in Copenhagen, so a devious plan was hatched to extend the work trip with some time off for railways and family. I even managed to do a bit of research for the Farthing layouts.
I went by rail to London. It was 16 hours on 5 trains, but I enjoyed the views and got most of a day’s work done on the laptop.
Early departure from Copenhagen Central at 5.44. No rush to the airport hours before, no security checks, no queues, no boarding hassles. Loved it.
We crossed the belts from Zealand to Funen and then to Jutland. Part of me misses the old ferry crossings with the coaches on board, but the bridges are certainly faster.
I got off at Fredericia, an important Danish junction. While waiting for my connection I watched the trains divide for different destinations in Jutland.
A lengthy car train had come up from Germany. Quite a fortune here.
Modern day shunter at work.
Then on to Germany and Hamburg. I’d chosen an itinerary that gave me 45-90 minutes at each interchange. It avoids the stress of small delays and allows time for a quick bite or drink.
That proved a good idea. In Hamburg the schedules are tight and platform space limited. There was a 15 minute delay and we went through a series of “platform hopping” exercises. I watched a tired and rather sarcastic train manager on the platform:
Passenger: “What platform for the train to Bremen?”
Train manager: “It has just been announced”
Passenger: “Yes but we couldn’t hear it”
Train manager: “Then you must listen better”.
Next was Cologne, with its light airy feel and the iconic advert for “Echt Kölnisch Wasser” on the end wall. There’s a lovely vibe to these big German stations in summertime.
But for some it’s just work of course!
Then on to Bruxelles Midi (French), a.k.a. Brussel Zuid (Flemish). I liked the large destination board, no tiny screens here!
Next the Eurostar, my first trip. TBH I was a bit disappointed, a dull interior and the Chunnel completely dark. No starched uniforms, no silverware, no sips of champagne. Oh well.
St Pancras made up for it though, sleek and modern yet carrying history forward.
Outside St Pancras, the old Midland hotel beckoned. Fat chance on my budget! I headed for my drab little hotel nearby, with a tiny basement room where you could hear the Tube rumbling by. At least it felt real.
Next morning I had a few hours before work began, so took a walk and paid my respects to the other termini in the area.
King’s Cross first.
I liked the architecture here, those arches mix aesthetics and function so well. Good looking trains too.
I’m a steam type but can appreciate modern stock, and Kings Cross was full of it this morning.
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The booking hall also works well, I think.
Then, er, Euston.
Good idea.
But I enjoyed the outside seating area. I understand there was quite a commotion when the old station was demolished. No wonder.
The stone lodges are among the last remains of the old Euston. The station names are a nice touch. It's now a pub, but sadly too early for beer.
After a week of work I had a weekend + two days off, and duly headed for Paddington.
They say that time travel is impossible. But sometimes if you pause and squint a little…
… it is not so difficult. (Source: Getty Images).
Nice trains too.
When at Paddington I have a tradition: A Cornish pasty and a mag from Smiths. After a long absence it was nice to repeat it - though I doubt that the Kernow fraternity on here would approve of mass-produced pasty!
I headed West, stopping first at Reading to see if anything remained of the old goods yards there.
I was especially interested in Vastern Road Yard, photos of which I have often pored over. The tree-lined perimeters provided inspiration for the goods yards at Farthing. (Source: Britain from Above).
Well, there are still trees. The rest is a shopping center and car park. Such dazzling ingenuity.
I looked for the site of an atmospheric photo that appears in the excellent GWRJ articles on Reading goods workings by Chris Turner and John Copsey (Nos 81 and 82).
The view today. Ho-hum.
Further down the road, the old King’s Meadow Goods Yard is now an office/ industrial estate. But the bridge that carried the GWR over the connecting line to the SECR remains.
A Google Earth view of the bridge. Seemingly the connecting line to the SECR is still there. I couldn't spot the track from the ground though, has it been recently lifted/re-arranged?
Anyway, here’s one for @Compound2632, who has an interest in the Huntley & Palmer’s biscuit factory. If I’m not mistaken this is the “Biscuit Tunnel” through which the factory sidings connected to the GWR yards.
The tunnel can be seen from the other side here, in 1928. Huntley and Palmer’s at the front, with the outer reaches of King’s Meadow yard top left. (Source: Britain from Above).
And then it was Newbury. I started my model of Newbury's main station building during the pandemic, so it was quite an occasion to finally arrive here.
We pulled into the old Didcot bay and I alighted from our set of clerestory coaches.
Oh sorry, wrong century. Here we are in 2023. Same bay platform, though the footbridge disappeared recently to make way for the OLE.
Newbury station was rebuilt to this condition during 1908-1910, with through lines in the center and loop lines along the platforms.
The core of the layout is still there, as are the main station buildings and original canopies.
I spent a pleasant couple of hours photographing the station for my model.
The station buildings have been through major refurbishment recently, and the approach is still being developed.
The canopy is a standard design used elsewhere on the GWR.
The supports can be found in the Ratio GWR canopy kit, seen kit-bashed here at Farthing.
The buildings may look intact but have seen multiple detail changes over the years. This, for example, is the front of the old tea rooms, next to the refreshment rooms. The window on the right has been blanked out, the other windows are modern, and until very recently there was no door here.
I took many nerdy photos. Let me know if anyone wants the rest. My build has benefited greatly from photos shared by others, thanks again gents!
I walked up the embankment. These are the Lambourne and Winchester bays (left and right) in their heyday. (Source: LVR website).
The view today. Both bays gone. At least the biodiversity benefits!
The old GWR spear railings still linger. Note nonconformist pattern top right. A replacement? Model that!
I said goodbye with a coffee and cake from the café, still housed in the old 1910 refreshment rooms. One hundred and thirteen years of munching and slurping, right here.
I then met up with mum. She turned 90 this year and I invited her on a trip to Cornwall. After visiting old friends Up North she joined me on the GWR to Penzance.
Along the way we enjoyed the breathtaking views and glorious blue skies, enhanced by the spotlessly clean carriage windows.
Then reached the fabled Penzance, bang on time.
The next three days were spent exploring the delights of Cornwall, staying in some wonderful B&Bs. Everyone knows how Land's End looks, so here's a shot of the fish & chips at Sullivan's, just across from Penzance station.
Luckily mum enjoys a scenic train ride, so St Erth-St Ives was a must.
The semaphores at St Erth were a complete surprise to me. I had no idea that they were still operational.
Great stuff .
The box at St Erth, built 1899.
We also visited the Helston Railway.
I was intrigued by the forest environment at Prospidnick where the line starts, a lovely atmosphere. This is, I think, BR Mk1 suburban brake No. E43147.
Hauling power was 0-6-0 No. 2000.
Class 127 coach No. 51616 at Truthall Halt. The line ends here, but extension to Helston is planned. As always, I’m full of admiration for the preservation movement.
Changing the lamps for the return trip. I’ll end the tale here too. It was a great journey, though time was short. Isn't it always.
Edited by Mikkel
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