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  1. 12 points
    "Surely you do not intend to transport my prize-winning champion in that ?!". Mr Bull looked incredulously at Woodcourt, the Station Master of Farthing. Woodcourt was acutely aware that the situation required all his diplomatic skills. "I'm afraid this is our only option" he replied "and we do convey horses in cattle vans quite frequently. The sheeting will keep her from panicking." He decided not to mention that the only horses ever carried in cattle vans were lowly farm animals. Faced with no alternative, Mr Bull finally gave in. "But make sure to tighten the tarpaulin better. Those ropes look slack and I won't have my champion go down with pneumonia!". Heaving a sigh of relief, Woodcourt made a mental note to remind the staff of the sheeting regulations. Those ropes did look rather slack! As No. 535 moved the van and its valuable cargo out of the loading dock, porter C. Walker realized that he now possessed some very useful inside information. After that ride, chances were that Mr Bull's champion wouldn't live up to its usual reputation at the races today. Best get some bets in. Meanwhile, Woodcourt was happy to see the horse move off. He congratulated himself on solving the little crisis, and wondered if perhaps the day would turn out well after all. Little did he know that his troubles had only just begun... Go to part 3
  2. 6 points
    The Hornby/Mitchell Castle has now received its new identity and has got a little more grubby along the way!
  3. 5 points
    Work continues to get the layout ready for the Nottingham show. For my own part I've finally completed work on the Hotel Royale and its neighbouring houses. As those who know the real thing may notice, I have omitted the glazed 'sun deck' over the entrance that existed in the 1960s and 70s and backdated the building to its original form. Due to lack of photos, I have had to speculate a little on how the entrance might have looked before this was added. In particular I have assumed that the big beam that is present today was added to hold up the 'sun deck' and was not part of the original structure. The two shop fronts on the ground floor of each wing may seem very odd (they do to me), but I have a 1960s photo and this is exactly what was there - both of them apparently without any sign of being active business premises. I found this quite an interesting building to get to know. When I look at the model on its own it makes me think of Miami or some of the posh flats in north London. When I plug the cottages onto the side of it it takes on a quite different character - rather making me wonder who thought it was a good idea to plonk a big art deco building into the middle of a street of more typically Cornish houses. I am also puzzled by the two shop fronts - if anything they seem even more out of place than the building itself. My theory is that they are evidence of the aspirations of the people who built the hotel - to turn the area into a modern hotel and shopping district, but then a certain Austrian decided to invade Poland and the rest is history. One of the reasons that it took so long is that I got rather bogged down with the internal walls. The intention is that the building will be lit at some point in the future so it needs a reasonably full set of internal walls and floors, plus provision to allow the light into the relevant rooms. This all had to be done in a way that allowed access to install glazing, interior detail and so on, so all of the internal stuff is made as a set of removeable boxes - 21 of them in all. I had planned to lay out all of the internal stuff for a photo but having persuaded them all to go into the building I didn't really want to take them out again. Here's a photo from the back of the building (which is close to the backscene) so that you can see how it all fits together. Other members have contributed more buildings than I have, but persuading them to write about it is another matter... Edit... in answer to Pete's question about how the windows are made... The windows are done using the Bob Moore pen and Humbrol gloss 41 paint. To get everything evenly spaced I made some stepped jigs from plastikard. The principle is simple - line everything up against the graph paper below the glass, put the steps on the steel ruler. Put the (bevelled) plastikard ruler on the top step and rule the first line. Move the steps outward and repeat. In two sessions with the pen I get a big sheet of windows. There were quite a lot of rejects - mainly whole sheets that went wrong because the paint spread into a blurry line for some reason. I have no idea why because it was the same paint, same sheet of clear sheet and the same pen. In the end I bought a new sheet and the problem went away.
  4. 3 points
    This Blog entry is about making good a Bachmann Manor. It could equally well apply to an older Bachmann Hall and I dare say might also apply to Dapol / Hornby Counties, not to mention Granges and the new 28xx. This view above is my version of the Cambrian Coast Express. I have fond memories of the ex GWR Manor Class engines and Dovey Junction. As mentioned elsewhere on this web site 'Dad and I' had a little look round Aberystwyth Shed in the very early 1960s and couldn't fail to be impressed by all the spotless polished brass and deep green paintwork. Needless to say I have had to buy a Manor Class. Back to the present, and not all the shiny models for sale on the Internet turn out to be as good as promised. One of my recent purchases had a distinct tight spot. A little knowledge is dangerous and I checked all the nylon wheel spacers and even changed one or two for good measure. This just seemed to make matters worse. Watching the moving engine more closely confirmed that the coupling rods and the connecting rod on one side were locking up at one specific point of wheel rotation. Furthermore this occurred at the instant that the vacuum pump spindle was supposedly fully retracted. The picture above completes the diagnosis and shows that the spindle had been made with a 1.5mm extension which made it too long for the vacuum cylinder that it was supposed to fit in. A quick trim with a cutting disc on my 'Dremel' and now we have a super smooth running engine. Of course - this engine had 'been in a display case all its life', so how would anyone have known that it had a running problem? Sometimes the problem is more fundamental! In this instance the wheel set was removed from the engine and the broken crosshead taped down onto my old chopping board. Then the back of the crosshead was ground flat using a cutting disc on my 'Dremel'. At the same time I 'borrowed' one of my wife's dress making pins. I then used the cutting disc to grind a 'flat' on the pin which was held steady by pushing it into an old wine cork. It was then relatively straightforward to glue the flat of the pin to the back of the crosshead using 'Super Glue'. Then when the glue was set the pin was cut to length. One view of the finished product so to speak and then another showing the 'bits' all back together.
  5. 3 points
    Greetings. Just a few extra details added this evening, before quitting to watch Whitechapel. This is a very detailed kit - far too so for me, personally, as it requires soldering under magnification of some very fiddly detail. My eyes are just not that good anymore! The etches though are astonishing in terms of quality. I found the tiny (.3mm) holes in the chassis for the brake wire too close to the driving wheels. When I tried slotting a piece through it actually rotated with the wheel. I have therefore taken liberties with the brakes,omitting and bypassing the centre shoe, and soldering the lever straight across from front to back. Sorry if that disappoints some modellers! The folding of parts has been made easy since I purchased a small "hold and fold" tool., so the side tank covers went reasonably well. Buffers are on the way from Nick at NBrass, so the chassis will be in a reasonably finished state at that point. I'm not sure how I'm going to blacken it as yet. Regards, Chris
  6. 2 points
    It's been a while between blog entries this month, mostly because I've spent an inordinate amount of time sleeping when at home. The traveling is finally starting to get to me! But I cannot complain because I like my job and it pays well for the time I put in. However with the tiredness, comes mistakes, and for anyone who has a copy of RCTS volume 2A, you'll spot the mistake which creeped into my modelling this month in about three paragraphs time. I choose to relate it here, because in a noble sense, hopefully it will stop others from making the same mistake - and in a less noble sense, it should give everyone a bit of a laugh on here at the schoolboy error! I will make a case for the defense later on, however the background first: One of the things I have wanted for a while now was an A4 Pacific in the BR experimental purple livery. But not just any A4 - it had to be a purple A4. I found, many moons ago, a photograph by a T. Revelly at a model fair of one such engine sitting at Leeds Central in this livery, with the Yorkshire Pullman behind. I was therefore delighted when a recent eBay bid came up trumps and a second hand and clearly quite battered 60027 Merlin came into my hands. I say battered, and I mean battered! I really do mean battered, by the way. The plastic cartazzi was split and needed replacing. The motor needed to be re-soldering to the connector for the tender plug. There was a chip on the tender's top side sheet, on the driver's side which I carefully stuck back and then went over with a wet'n'dry foam pad and water to hide the crack. The valve gear was split on one side and I took the opportunity to replace it entirely. The reverser was missing entirely, and like my de-frocked Mallard, Lord Faringdon is still missing this until I can source replacements. The worst part came with the realization that the previous owner/s had clearly ripped off the original bufferbeam at some point, and replaced it with an older Margate version of the A4 bufferbeam, clearly cut from a spare bodyshell. On removing it, a whole load of material came away, and the clear extent of the damage to the front end of the model was shown. So I rummaged around in my spares box and came up trumps with a spare bufferbeam from a Railroad Mallard model. This also provided a spare, more realistic looking chime whistle (possibly of Bachmann A4 origin), and some Humbrol model filler. One of the things I would also need to change on 60027 would be the chimney. I knew from my research (!) that Lord Faringdon was a double chimney A4 for her entire life, and luckily I could call upon one of the excellent Graeme King resin double chimneys to fit, after carefully removing the original single chimney (which may be used for another A4 Pacific project later on). So I fitted the new bufferbeam using a few drops of loctite, on the bufferbeam tabs, to hold it into position. The next stage was adding Humbrol plastic model filler and filling down the bufferbeam section until the seam was removed. This seam aggravates me on the Hornby A4s, and the purpose of this particular project to some extent was to see if this seam could be reasonably removed and the rivets reinstated on the front end to a good standard. After a further sanding down with wet'n'dry paper, I added two lines of archers rivets to each side of the streamlined casing it was required, the originals having been sanded down in the rebuilding of the bufferbeam end. At the same time, I added the Graeme King resin chimney (but somewhat aggravatingly, didn't photograph it before I painted it. D'oh!) The resin rivets were sealed with a coat of Gamesworkshops Chaos Black acrylic paint before I started the identity change. The Merlin nameplates were removed carefully with a scalpel, the area for the nameplate being carefully and lightly sanded with a wet'n'dry foam pad from B&Q, and the Fox Transfers nameplates stuck into place. The same wet'n'dry foam pad was used, with copious amounts of water, to remove the Merlin crests and Hornby numerals without damaging the paintwork. Fox Transfers numerals were applied, and sealed with Gamesworkshops Ardcoat varnish, mixed 1:3 with water for a light sealing. The current state of play can be seen below: The idea was to replicate the Hornby rivets whilst also removing that seam, and to some degree I think it's been a success. It looks a bit better minus the seam, but I clearly need more practice with applying the rivets to the model. Note the curly 6 numeral on the Fox Transfers smokebox numberplate, correct for this period (1949). However...returning to the issue of the "mistake" or in this case, the mis-identity. Yes, I've managed to get it hopelessly wrong. 60034 was never a purple A4, and none of the A4s which were purple had a double chimney at the same time. Two instances have caused me to get this wrong - the first is my own fault: Yes, I managed to get "GB" (garter blue) and "EP" (Experimental Purple) the wrong way round. I therefore should have been modelling Walter K Wigham. There is some relief as that nameplate is as long as Lord Faringdon's. Less relief when I realize I have to revert the model back to being a single chimney A4 and it needs the 34 changed to a 28. However there is a further point which may have forced the error further. If you have a copy of Railway Modeller, February 2012, and you turn to page 138, you will see a familiar looking purple A4 Pacific, on Mr Eric Walford's excellent Boreham MPD layout. It seems this mistake is more common than I thought! With apologies to Mr Walford, whose modelling is excellent, but whose A4 is sadly identical to mine in that it's wrong. So, what to do? Well, I will be finding out if there is a supplier of single chimneys to replace the double chimney I have fitted, and I will be changing the model posthaste over the next few weeks to Walter K. Whigham. Ah well, I only have to do it once more now! I thought I'd end on a high after the severe low of realizing the mistake, so here is the purple A4 sitting with Mallard, Sir Ralph Wedgwood, and the lone W1 in a lineup which would never have happened either! Until next time!
  7. 2 points
    A doubleheaded down Paddington-Penzance express with a Hall, King and 14 on!
  8. 1 point
    One of the reasons I chose to model Farthing was the rather unusual combination of stock sometimes seen in that area . In this case, East meets West as the thoroughly Cornish 0-4-4T No. 34 heads a train of Holden 4-wheelers from the Metropolitan area. A highly implausible combination, especially during this period and in this location! Above, Driver T. F. Oberon eases the branch train into the bay, while Fireman R.S. Peaseblossom is looking desperately for his lunch bag. The branch train comes to rest in the bay. It is seen from the alternate, non-viewing side of the layout, with the sky edited in. The coaches are an All Third to Dia S17 and a Brake Third to Dia T59, and consist of Shirescenes sides on modified Ratio underframes. They are approximations as the ends are only 5 panels wide in order to fit the width of the chassis, whereas in fact they should be 6 panels wide. I wrote up some building notes here. A closer view of No. 34. This loco was originally built and owned by the late Dave Perkins, with whom I shared an interest in Edwardian GWR. I hope to make a separate post showing some of his locos later on. No 34 was built from the old Albion (now Roxey Mouldings) kit, and is the only pre-owned loco I have that did not require some form of repair or repaint when I took it over. No. 34 has run round its train and is shunting a horsebox off the branch train and into the horse dock. I haven't fitted Sprat & Winkle couplings to this loco yet, so am using screwlinks/3-links and the Big Hand from Above to work it. Not easy when you have to reach over the canopy! Ganger P. Quince watches No. 34 shunting. Not an easy man to impress, he is nevertheless captivated by the unusual branch train today. Meanwhile, a bit of grass conveniently grows at the base of the water tower. Not that it is hiding a gap of course! A classic platform cameo, as we take leave of No. 34 moving past in the background.
  9. 1 point
    Farthing, June 27, 1914. Europe is on the brink of war, but noone knows. The staff go about their morning routines, and No. 835 sleepily shunts a horsebox. Station Master A. Woodcourt examines the scene. He likes the order and calm of the bay area. He is feeling his age and hopes it will be a quiet day. But it is not to be. As he propels the horsebox into the sidings, driver T.F. Oberon notices a problem. Throughout his life with the railways, he has been able to smell a hot axlebox. And he can smell one now. As the "hot box" is confirmed, Woodcourt realizes he has a problem on his hands. There is a major event at the Farthing Race Course today, and there are no spare horseboxes to deploy. To make matters worse, the owner of the horse turns out to be the rather brusque and imposing Mr Bull. As Bull launches into yet another of his long-winded complaints about the state of the country's railways, Woodcourt realizes it is going to be one of those days... *** Credits: Horsebox built by Pete Morris. *** Will Woodcourt solve the problem? Will the horse make it in time for the races? What else is in store for the good people of Farthing? Find the answers in the next instalment of "All in a day's work"... Go to part 2
  10. 1 point
    I finished the second row of Howard Scenics cottage fronts the other day, and finally took some photos out doors today while the sun was out (well, mostly): Here is what they look like from the back, posed on the layout:
  11. 1 point
    Some progress has been made on the “Brush 4â€, to the extent that I think the “body†is now done. The main area of focus has been around the front ends, in a bid to try and make the model look a bit more like the prototype. As I’m sure I mentioned before I’d acquired some Extreme Etchings Class 47 windscreen surround etches... and very nice these are too. So I wanted to use these and soon realised that these would be quite a bit bigger than the Bachmann openings so an improved look could result. I also wanted to replace the handrail, having already removed the “thick†plastic handrail beforehand. Originally, I simply used some 0.6mm brass wire in three sections. Two short sections were fitted to the inner holes and a large piece shaped to the handrail contour (by placing it flush to the nose and easing it to fit) and then slightly bending to form the correct (or approximate) elevation contour. The two inner pieces were then glued in and filed to size (under 1mm) and the main handrail glued in, with the rail touching the short sections... securely glued in place (zap-a-gap pink). Once fitted these looked much finer. Then.... aargh! Realisation dawns! On comparing the model with prototype photos, it became apparent that the distance between the handrail and “nose lip†[dimension A] should be greater than the distance between the handrail and the headcode box [dimension B]. And on the model it wasn’t. I’d used the original holes... so is the Bachmann model wrong... well... I removed the handrail pieces (the small bits refused to budge so were filed flush) and started again. This time, I drilled new holes about 0.4mm lower than the originals. You can see the originals still in place which serves to illustrate the miniscule change. BUT, now the dimensions are better A is now > B... which is what I wanted... suddenly I think it looks a bit more “47†like. Which is good; it would have been a shame to put the effort in and see no improvement. Now, I needed a replacement for the headboard bracket. I was trimming the original prior to refitting when it slipped from the tweezers: twing... dink dink dink. 45 minutes of searching later..... not found - was seen headed in direction of bookcase. I'll find it again... one day maybe. I posted a “help†thread on here and this revealed some useful leads, etch parts and ViTrains parts suggested. Thanks to John Upton for sending me some spare ViTrains brackets; these arrived a few days later and looked very nicely shaped... but a bit big. So... hmmm. Fortunately, I went to the Watford Finescale model show that weekend and had quite a nice chat (as ever) with Mike and Brian on the EE stand... and I discussed my project. Oh, and Nimbus came with me. Poor quality photos I’m afraid, but seen here on Brian’s stand next to his original “55†body conversion... where it drew some admiring glances (smug mode engaged) and then she stretched here legs (wheels) on Mark T’s Portchullin where she ran... not very well... but she did move and what’s a little derailing amongst friends... it’s P4 for goodness sake! Oh and the volume was too low – seemingly a factor with either Mark’s Gaugemaster or my Powercab... because he was nice and loud when I got him back home. Anyway... thanks Brian (and Mike for putting up with it) and Mark. But, I digress... For the 47, Brian (or was it Mike?) suggested the EE lamp iron etch, just fold them up. Blimey I thought, that sounds fiddly... but you know what, er... it was! But worth the effort. Scale metal brackets... and glued on with rocket max they seem quite secure (fingers crossed). The other item discussed was... er I’m not sure which loco I’m doing at the moment, but an Finsbury Park Generator.... “what, an early oneâ€.. beamed Mike, “maybe†says I.... “are you changing all the cant rail grills then?†My face fell. “What!?†“The grillsâ€, “They’re different on the early onesâ€. Oh ‘eck. I need to look this up – something else I’d not noticed. “Windscreen wipersâ€, I said, “do you do thoseâ€... “yesâ€, “straight or pantograph ones?†Oh eck... I bought both feeling a little embarrassed... all in good fun. We spoke about the 37 I plan to do next and a 08. DON’T ON ANY ACCOUNT START TO TALK TO THEM ABOUT THESE... YOU’LL REALISE THAT YOU HAVE QUITE A JOB AHEAD OF YOU... oh for a simple conversion. Sob. As for the 47s cant rails... yes. See for 47404, which is different, and for 47414 which is reassuringly the same... I might have found one to model! Anyway.., back to the real task in hand... Prior to the show, I’d rung Brian and had a chat about the laserglaze screens. I wanted to use these as they do look good... they’ve appeared in George Dent’s blog recently and probably Model Rail... so I was going to use them too. Now, if you’re just replacing the glazing and cleaning up the original frames, use them as advertised; if you’re going to fit the true-scale etch frames, think again. Because the Bachmann screens are a little small, if you fit the etch frames, you’ll find that the screens sit inside the frames with a small gap between them and the frames. In some cases this might not show, but it didn’t feel right. “Brianâ€, I said “are the laserglaze items for the Heljan 47 any bigger?â€... knowing that this is the “tubby duffâ€... “Oh yes†says Brian... “in fact they fit the frames very wellâ€. RESULT. So, I’d acquired some of these and set about making the backmann openings bigger to accept the new glazing. The photos show the comparison between the two, with the Heljan glazing and Bachmann glazing in the frames, and a direct comparison of the two sets of glazing – look how much bigger the Heljan ones are! Oh, and some advice: these glazing items are not rectangular... they’re curved, but only very subtly... be very very careful to make sure you have them the right way around and up... it’s very easy to get them mixed up when trying to decide how to open-up the hole for them. Anyway, to get them in the right place, I temporarily fitted the etched frames and then scraped the plastic away from inside the edges... as shown. This left me with a “frame sized hole†to work to... the frames could them be removed and sanding gently, the hole was eased out “square†on each side equally to the point where the glazing would give an “interference†fit. The shots show the TI and frame carefully balanced in place to show the effect. The glazing was removed and put away carefully and all frames then well and truly glued in place. I think they look ok... and the look of the 47 is improving. These also show how much material was removed from the section in front of the windscreens... this really needs the lip lowering to provide room for the frames and give a neater, crisper profile. I don’t think that the quantity of yellow paint helps. Next time it’ll be stripper before starting. Too late now, this time though. As mentioned before, an alternative headcode (lamp) bracket was sourced and bent and fitted. I think it looks very neat. A slight weekend departure saw me helping to operate Brighton Road at the Modelworld show on Friday – thanks Matthew for capturing me running the Teak set on a south coast to Victoria slow. Learning the fiddle yard operation was challenging but very rewarding; thanks to Barry Luck for letting me help. http://www.rmweb.co....ton-modelworld/ I managed to pick up a Bachmann 105 DMU (Blue/yellow) DCC fitted for £75 too, which I was quite pleased about. Then... I spent a little time on Sunday with the airbrush weathering track and applying some lighter shades to the scenic portions of my boys “roundyâ€. It’s getting there! Back to the 47... and time to work on some finishing details. The Extreme Etchings roof fan grills were carefully removed from their fret (not careful enough) and rolled and fitted. You might see the slight damage to one grill but I’m hoping that some suitable weathering will eventually hide this. Actually, I think that George Dent had a similar mishap... so I’m not too bothered about this ####s up. They are very delicate. Finally, there were two more details to add. The first needed a little further research, which revealed this photo and I was able to construct something suitable using microstrip and <1mm length of .25mm wire. Not very precise, but I think it’ll do. The photo from Tomstaf was also very useful. The photo shows that I used a tiny slither of bluetack attached to the (now blunt) tip of the SM blade to pick up the wire piece to position it. The next photo shows one fitted and one microstrip piece awaiting its “bit of wireâ€. These are the ex-washer jets. Finally... promise... I noticed that the Finsbury Park Generators (411-418 that I was focussing on included ... as these have the same cant rail grills as the model)... look again at the earlier photo of 47414 (linked) and you’ll see two rivets under the headcode box. Further research identified that this was for the 34G shed plate... and all FP ones seemed to have it (that I looked at)... others didn’t. So, I reached for the Archer waterslides and approximately positioned two “rivets†as desired. Oh, and as mentioned before 47414 now looks a likely candidate ... was crew built (eyebrows and tail lights are right)... and fuel tanks don’t look too bad (but that’s a future problem to resolve) so I think it’ll be ok. The end results looks quite different from the start point... and possibly worth the effort... so I wrote it all up. Photos uploaded to flickr as before... and a light dusting of primer to be applied as time permits. But this will do for now. Chassis next... I hope that it’s not too difficult, but I’m not holding my breath. That's all for now.., thanks for reading. Hope that some of it was interesting if not useful Jon.
  12. 1 point
    Update - Its been a bit of a frustrating 10 days or so for me... Last week our two boys were away on holidays so I took the opportunity to work on their 4mm roundy roundy. I made quite a bit of progress although when they returned this weekend it wasn't long before the screaming, shouting, arguing and fighting started and I nearly went a threw the whole lot on the floor in frustration So, rather than work on finishing the station building and weathering it, I decided to work a little on the motive power for Kyle. Aside from a large logo tractor, the first two locos will be 24113 and 26038. For 24113, using the excellent Farish model, I have filled the front doors flush and fitted front end pipe detail to one end. I now need to fit the headcode discs, renumber and weather it. 24113 was a regular on the line to Kyle. For 26038, it was less straightforward due to all the subtle differences in the class. I know the Dapol version is the earlier type but I have a TPM body in progress for the later version and this will run on a Kato chassis kindly given to me by David Long. For this model I have fitted front end detail pipework, snow ploughs, headcode discs and two headlights for working the Far North lines. I still need to change the steps on the bogies to straight ones and also amend the underfame detail water/fuel tanks. I began the locos this weekend as an antidote to all the 4mm stuff for my kids (as I felt I had wasted a week after the meltdown happened) however after trying to fix all the fiddly front end pipe detail, then losing half of it on the floor...and then losing most of it all again on the floor, I can only appreciate even more how fantastic Ian of Mercig Studios work is. Note to self: I must keep doing the Euromillion so I can commision Ian to produce all my fleet... So, feeling that both my eyesight and patience isn't cut out for this no more...I'm having a bit of a lowpoint again Sorry... Anyhow...here's a shot of the 26 as it stands at present... Hopefully, things will look a bit more this week... EDIT: Typo in 24133 - Should read 24113, which was a Kyle regular (24133 had the headcode box which may the subject of a future build...)
  13. 1 point
    Thank you kindly Will. I have just finished the stripping of 60034 for conversion to 60028 and it's well on its way to being a single chimney A4 all over again...! New nameplates ordered, the Lord Faringdon plates I have managed to salvage along with the numberplate for future use. No harm done, bar a few nights work, but I thought it might amuse or strike a chord with anyone else who has had that "facepalm" moment when you realize you've made a schoolboy error!
  14. 1 point
    As he walked back to his office, Woodcourt looked back at the wagon, lifted his cap and scratched his head. He walked on shaking his head and thinking "What xxx stencilled the date on that wagon sheet? He obviously couldn't tell the difference between thirteen and thirty!" Good stuff, Mikkel. Looking forward to the next episode. Nick
  15. 1 point
    It's a credit to your honesty that you owned up! I wonder how many people would've known LF never ran in that condition? I certainly didn't! PS. I do like the last pic - very 'LNER publicity department'
  16. 1 point
    One small comment, Ilkeston Town is the work of Nottingham MRS, Ilkeston Woodside club had part of their Kimberley layout on show
  17. 1 point
    Well if that 26 is the result of the eyesight and patience I think you're not doing too bad at all. As others have said I'm like the way your blog details the highs and lows, it inspires us all who have similar lows!! And I've threatened to throw my lads Brio in the bin on more than one occasion and he's only 18months! What have you used for the front end detail on your 26 and 24? Also do you have any pics of the 24? Might help inspire me to carry on with my 25 conversion - having a crisis of nerve!
  18. 1 point
    Thanks for all your kind comments. From looking at photographs, I think the corner framework is square section timber so on the finished model they should look the same thickness when viewed from either the side or the end. Therefore if the sides go between the ends, the framework on the sides should be thinner than that on the ends by the thickness of a layer of etch. Now that the kit is assembled its hard to measure but looking at my first photo on this blog entry, if anything the ends look thinner which would suggest the ends go between the sides. I've just measured the finished model with a digital caliper - I come up with the following:- Length - model approx 29.9mm - 30.0mm, prototype drawing says 14' 11" Width - model approx 14.8mm - 14.9mm, prototype drawing says 7' 5" If anything, the model is a touch too long but I'm happy enough with the compromise construction method I used. I think if I'd stuck with side between end for all four corners, the model would have been too long. Now I need to measure the roof that came as a separate piece of etch - my suspicion is that it may measure too small in both dimensions. John
  19. 1 point
    Cracking shot Pete, put a smile on my face!
  20. 1 point
    Loving the headlights, cold looking layout, cool looking locomotive.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    have to agree with Kris its the wrong colour I thought I had cornered the market in low points Drink Gin it a be fine
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Thanks for the comments. Pete, I was wondering whether you knew the location of those Brazilian survivors but, of course, it is a rather big country. Mikkel, I'm not sure I'd like to meet such a bug, it would probably be as big as the model. Yes, the diorama idea was just a passing fancy as I've every intention of getting it to run soon. Having looked at the photos and videos of this work on the Joyce restoration pages, I noticed that the lifting was done with most of the fiddly bits removed from the boiler, so they may well have done the same with overhauls in the past. Sallydog, Adam, I've just started putting the motor in for some initial running in and testing, so I hope to be able to show the motorised chassis in the next entry. Nick
  25. 1 point
    Apart from two pieces on 15 refuges (waiting for timber delivery) the refuges are now all done. Here are all 72 of them lined up, with the incomplete ones at the back. They still need trimming and fitting in places. With each refuge having 19 pieces, when the last 15 are done there will be 1368 pieces in the photo above! Balustrades are also all done, and here they all are, 70 'standard' ones and 8 'specials' which are a bit longer for the runs between the pavilions and the inner pavilion and first refuge. The standard balustrades have 7 pieces each, while 6 of the specials have 9 pieces and two of them have 11 (due to cutting/shutting standard pieces). So in total there are 566 pieces in the balustrades. I'm then going to sort all the refuges and balustrades out into A-team and B-team (hope there's enough A-team!) and start to match them up so I get the trimming and fitting as bespoke as possible - so when we come to fix them to the decks they will actually be numbered! Balustrades will go on first, and I will use 7mm strip to use as a solid guide by Copydexing them lined up along the edges of the deck - saves faffing with pencil lines. I'll have to dream up and make some kind of jig so that they are 'centred' in relation to the refuge positions. The pavilion roofs have also been lifted by 2mm. This first meant cutting the existing roof off at the top of the columns. The extra 2mm is provided by Evergreen 2mm square section, cut to length on the NWSL Chopper (would never have been able to do all this without one!). Here the longer edges have been glued on, and after that with all four sides. Here is the first pavilion with its new roof. There is also a 2mm slab at the base to show what it will look like finally, but the actual bases will be limewood again (delivery coming from Cornwall Model Boats). And here is all seven of them done so far (John has the eighth with him at the moment), and with a length of balustrade to show the preserved height relationship.
  26. 1 point
    It does make a huge difference to some already outstanding models
  27. 1 point
    Crickey, this is a nice bit of model making - another thread I've missed until now.
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