47137
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Blog Comments posted by 47137
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I can imagine seeing micros with clip-on extensions to give extra depth or context to the scene. I tried to do this with my first version of 'Fairport' but Mikkel you have done it in a properly engineered and modelled way, and it really does look superb.
- Richard.
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I started reading this post at the end and imagined the last photo was of the prototype. Sorry :-)
- Richard.
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I have a feeling a wig and dark glasses might make things worse. Worse if I was spotted and even worse trying to explain my purchases.
But - the eyeshadow must be a good idea? You get six shades in a box, and a reasonable quantity of each, while for the Humbrol powders you get one shade per jar.
Staying in the same section of Boots, maybe hair spray would hold the result and be a bit less permanent than the Daler-Rowney fixative? I imagine it is "chemically compatible" with the eye shadow so a regular user can adjust their hair after doing their face? (Hair spray has just worked well for me with a very fluffy Woodland Scenics tree).
- Richard.
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I can imagine a really happy half hour at the Boots make-up counters, I'll take along some scrap wagons and loco bodies and introduce myself to each of the assistants in turn :-)
- Richard.
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Ian, I noticed Faller do a 90mm turntable and immediately thought of your early locos:
Might be useful for a future layout, and it is motorised too.
- Richard.
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I am very impressed by your lamp and indeed your results. I bought a home studio lighting kit a few years ago, one by Interfit. It wasn't desperately expensive but it had rather more than I needed for models and the layout - two heads, snouts, brollies and so on. Eventually one of the heads wore out and I am now using the second one. The soft box is its most useful accessory for me and you might experiment with a piece of net curtain or loosely-woven cotton sheet across the front of your lamp. But do keep an eye open for the heat.
- Richard.
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I guess cycle shops will still sell individual spokes, these are quite good as push rods.
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There is an account of my magnets here - I can't believe this was over five years ago!
For a traverser I'd go for the next size up for the magnets, because a turntable have its spindle to provide a point of reference but a traverser doesn't.
Longer ago I built a NG sector plate using small ball bearings on springs, moving vertically. This worked after a fashion but it was quite tricky to set up. The magnets just sort of "worked".
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On 08/05/2020 at 09:02, Ian Simpson said:
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The push-along design I've used is very simple, with a minimum of working parts to go wrong. I think a sector plate pivoted with a pin at one end would be even easier to build and align properly. But adding a third track would complicate things - I don't know how I would tackle that!
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Ian, if you ever wanted to add a third track you could try some pairs of neodymium magnets on the traverser and the baseboard to provide an index for the middle position. I did this on a Peco 00 turntable and it worked.
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The wheels and coupler really do make the model look very nice indeed.
I've never heard of an OBK coupler ... does it prevent buffer locking? It must be almost invisible from a normal viewing distance.
- Richard.
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This is a very useful post, although the links don't work for me. Please excuse a small brain dump:
Hmmm ...
"As I was once told by a member of another club, "You must remember that people don't go to exhibitions to look at the layouts. They're there to look at the stock". And therefore in his view the actual layout should be as nondescript as possible - the set should not distract attention from the star actors"
I think your quote is good for a specific kind of layout, I'm thinking of the 00 layout built some years ago (David Jenkinson) for the NRM; these priorities are not universal. Members of the general public will enjoy the setting as well as the trains; the hobby lets people see model towns and landscapes rather well. Members of the hobby will enjoy seeing examples of what they have just made or want to make or buy, or what they want to "do" in terms of operations.
I accept an analogy of a theatre, with the layout (stage), trains (actors) and timetable or sequence (script), but sometimes one of these three aspects dominates and the layout is still enjoyable to look at. The script for a layout is not as important as for a play or film.
I often look at the layout first, and then the trains. I'll guess this is because nowadays so many layouts have RTR trains, and I want to see what people have made themselves. Or perhaps because the model railway layout is an excuse to built a scenic setting, and then bring it to life.
I expect my own layout will eventually have a sequence, but it will have many "runs when required" services thrown in. I can draw up a list of these based on either the stock I have, and what it might be carrying; or what my imaginary railway needs, and which stock might best fulfil this. For me, the idea of "runs when required" would be a sort of pre-determined and formalised version of a wagon-load freight train, but for others it might be the contents of a pick-up goods. I'm not sure if you can add a "runs when required" service to your list, or if it belongs with waybill operation but I think it deserves a mention.
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If you were to make your diorama to around 1:32 scale, and a few children's toys are more agreeable than the excesses of out of the box modelling, there are Britain's farm animals to enjoy the model field. This would put some life into the scene too and make sure it's not too sad.
- Richard.
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Some cotton wool teased out and attached to the sky would make some steam or smoke. I used this to hide a join in my own sky and it should work for bubbles too.
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Thank you for a most helpful blog post.
I have a studio camera with movements. It's one of those things I wanted for many years, and then realised its limitations as soon as I started with it - mainly its bulk and its appetite for roll film. Anyway, I did apply it to model trains some years ago and here is an example of controlling DoF with movements. The lens is turned somewhat to the left, and also titled vertically to keep the vertical things upright. This photo is scanned from a negative but no subsequent editing. Can we can produce this sort of effect with focus stacking? That is, setting the area of focus diagonally across the depth of the subject. If so please do post up the details.
Original image (lost from RMweb server):
Substitute image (might be different to the original):
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Ps anyone tell me how to add more photos??
The only way I know is to go back to the original blog post and edit it. This is what I do. I have seen photos included in people's comments but never worked out how to do it.
For the TMD, if you could make a traverser then this could be the focal point of the layout. Then model only the front few inches of the depot building and put the fiddle yard behind this. Access to and from the depot being from a road behind the building. A mirror on the backscene at this end to make the building look deeper.
If you make the building from card and traverser from wood or metal, this leaves the £50 to spend on some lengths of straight track (possibly s/h Setrack with sleepers buried), and the trimmings. It always seems to me, the bulk of the money goes on little scenic fixtures and fittings.
- Richard.
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While C.J. Freezer plans are always interesting just be aware that he crammed a lot in and you may find in practice that you need slightly more space than the plan states to get everything in comfortably and workable.
Yes - be aware the points on the drawing are barely four inches long, and the operating well is really tight too. If you are planning for 00 and can add another 18 inches or so both ways this will help a lot. I suggest redrawing it in AnyRail and see how it looks with modern track.
- Richard
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Looks superb! I bought two servos and a control board for them ages ago, this post should encourage me to have a go and try a working gate.
- Richard.
Improving Photos with "Focus Stacking"
in Harlequin's Blog
A blog by Harlequin in RMweb Blogs
Posted
I have uploaded a photo which supports my comment (diagonal focal plane and upright verticals), but I am not sure if is my original photo - HTH