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Stentor

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  1. Very sad to hear this news, my condolences to his family and friends. All of Geoff’s shows I attended were impeccably conceived, planned and run. When you saw him at the show he always looked utterly in control and at the very top of his game. A sad loss especially now with the prospect, hopefully, of shows restarting and we would have seen him back in action, entertaining and bringing a smile back to faces. //Simon
  2. David, According to the CRW Flags of the World website: “in fact the emblem was reversed on one side of the funnel, due to some maritime requirement that the top of the design should always point to the bows. This was to give a better visual indication of the ships direction to other navigators in times of bad visibility. “ // Simon
  3. Yes, this fits in with the philosophy of Dick Hardy and John Bellwood of pairing crews to locomotives to encourage pride in their “own loco”.
  4. Paul, if I understand you correctly then although these B12s were “on the books” as being under 30A the Southend fitters removed the 30A shed plate and replaced it with a 30D one. Was this a common activity within each shed pool for the locos working from an outlying shed?
  5. There is a lot of information out there so I don’t know why manufacturers still get it wrong nowadays. For me, and probably many of us, to get paid to research and curate this kind of detail would be a dream job. So it strikes me as odd that a “dynamic and passionate team, striving to be the FIRST choice in models and hobbies” aren’t passionate about the detail here. //Simon
  6. I agree with you, it looks like Hornby have misread that B12s were used on the Southend services and taken it that they were allocated there too. 61576 appears on the shedbash UK website as being at Southend in January 1956 but it is shown as being allocated to Stratford. RCTS vol 2b also talks about B12s monopolising fast and semi fast trains to Southend but makes no references to allocation to 30D. //Simon
  7. Happy Christmas and a brighter 2021 to you and yours David. Thank you for your dedication in bringing us these fantastic pictures every day, it is very much appreciated. //Simon
  8. Thanks to all who answered especially to Philjw, Fodenway and Modelldoc. The John Day Models site is a real treasure chest for this and I’m going to go for a Morris LC ambulance which is bang on for my time range of mid 50s. // Simon
  9. I’ve been looking for a suitable load for a Lowmac wagon around 1955 in East Anglia. I have recently seen a couple of photographs, taken in the 60s, showing a new civilian ambulance and a Royal Navy ambulance being delivered by rail. So three questions: 1. Were ambulances delivered by rail in the mid 50s? 2. Which makes and models would they have likely been? 3. Are any suitable models available in 4mm scale? Thanks in advance for any insight. //Simon
  10. I would agree, it looks like a Nissan Cherry GTi to me, https://www.curbsideclassic.com/uncategorized/carshow-classic-1985-nissan-cherry-europe-gti-the-worst-of-both-worlds/ //Simon
  11. Taken at Acton Bridge, its the lighting and the compression of the turnout length that gives a model look I think.
  12. A1 models still sell a range of detailing parts on eBay. Search for seller A1models-doncaster. No connection other than a satisfied customer.
  13. Thanks for all the suggestions and following Philj W's suggestion I slid a thumbnail between the front grill and the front bumper and it opened with no damage. Likewise doing the same between the rear bumper and the body loosened that too. I attach a couple of photos of the split body for anybody who faces the same problem, the seats and glazing look straight forward clips. Once again, thanks to John and especially to Phil for their help.
  14. As suggested by Philj W here are some photographs. As you can see our old friend the blind man has painted the model using his trusty bog brush which is why she needs a repaint. The rear number plate looks promising but that is part of the glazing , not the chassis. Any suggestions please.
  15. I have recently acquired a Solido 1:43 scale Renault 5 which I would like to strip and repaint. But I cannot see how to separate the chassis from the body. There are no obvious rivets to drill out and whilst the body is diecast the chassis appears to be plastic. Does anybody have any experience of how to open them please? Any help much appreciated, thanks.
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