EKR

Glad to see you have your priorities right. (online teaching in a brewery.......appropriate but sus)

I have revived paste in the past with a few drops of water, but whilst it adds to it’s application, it also adds to the spitting. Phosphorous flux is c.90% water. A small amount of water can also revive powerflo flux that has gone that horrible brown muddly colour.

I’ve just watched a Video of a Japanese modeller scratch building a brass EMU with minimal tools. He used no clamps or jigs whatsoever. Just sellotape to hold pieces in position till he could tack them in place. I’m reminded that some fishing tackle is designed to catch fish, other to catch anglers. Applies to us too

I should add that when I first got my rsu I purchased both solder paste and solder creams. Haven’t touched them over the last ten years, as I too disliked the “spitting” and the silly prices. I just use standard 145 solder and a phosphoric flux, the same as I use with my regular iron, as it also works well with whitemetal. In the situations where a paste or cream would be helpful I find tinning does the job, and where a thin flux would run away, I use a paste flux like Copalux. Normally I have a small pot with short lengths of precut solder to hand. The main reason I prefer to use a clip is that it is quick and allows me to turn the item I’m working on in any direction for the best view and access. As to keeping the probe clean, I always have some grit paper on the workbench and a quick wipe works wonders. It’s worth adding that I used to use a pencil sharpener (read on forums) to keep the probe to a point, but now I don’t bother. Two faces are all thats needed, and it’s easier to push with.

Missed some of the chat, but want to say that if your using enough power to burn clip marks into the metal, the damage at the probe end would be much much worse. Frankly I’ve never done it. But then my standard setting is low power. Only boosted when needed. After you’ve managed to melt your first couple of handrail knobs you learn to use some delicacy... I did start following Raymond Walley’s advice, but rapidly ditched the plate and magnets. Just more to clean and get lost on my messy workbench. The magnets are quickly replaced with clips, pins and bluetack on a flat surface. Pretty much what I use with my regular iron. It’s worth repeating that the rsu is a great problem solver, as it gives the ability to push with the probe much more cleanly than with a regular iron. Something not fixed correctly? Push it off with the probe. A hand rail a fraction out of line? Just nudge it with the probe. The cabside fractionally unaligned at the top? Again nudge with the probe. Like any tool, the more you use it, the more uses you’ll find for it.

I used to use the Carrs paste when I started, but I now just tin items with standard flux and solder. Find what works for you and stick with it. Also don’t be fixed on the metal plate, I just use an alligator clip as it allows me to turn items easily. Never caused any problems and less to clean and clutter up the bench.

Just a suggestion but have you considered a refurbished laptop? I was browsing Laptops Direct site for one for my grandson (11) and didn’t want to pay too much as he’s not very careful with his things Ended up buying a brand new Lenovo for c.£500. i7, 8gig of ram and 500hdd.

Branchlines. A very nice kit to build. Currently on my third and fourth.

Make sure your fence is goatproof. They really can wreck havoc in a garden!

Glad to see you are back to building again George. Looking forward to this one.

I just want to say how much I have enjoyed this thread. Your modelling is of a very high order and must be an inspiration to many. While your mastery of CAD is a source of great envy.....

As a boy I saw both engines double heading an excursion at Oxford. Clearly remembered from my close association with choking to death by leaning over the footbridge (Hinksey) as they departed.

Another one here for the ikebana thread. Truly excellent modelling.

Thanks also for that link to the Warwick videos Ian. Very useful.

Have you contacted Andy about this? This forum has been my go to section for years but recently only Jazz seems to be posting on a regular basis. Both you and Sandy are sorely missed.

They protect the brake gear from the drop doors on mineral wagons.

I had the same problem with a lose piece of lead and used some bathroom mastic which I had to hand. Not a squeak out of it since.

Agree. Fascinating glimpse into a forgotten world.

Annie you mustn’t forget to have donkeys on the beach. No resort back in the day was without them. Remember Nicholas Nickleby’s aunt was constantly waging war on the donkey boys.

Tarnished etches get sprayed with Bar Keepers Friend and left for fifteen minutes on the shower tray. Easy to rinse off.

Well done

Agree with loaded but worry slightly about how bright the signage is on the side of the wagon and the Glass label. Could just be the effect of photography, but would a printed black label have been so bright back in the day? Apols for being so "picky", but your modelling is so good it requires careful attention from your followers

Such a great looking brake van. Can you post another photo when you have it painted? Just trying to convince myself that Col.Stephens bought one somehow...... (though I don't fancy filling that flimsy etch)

Leave it distressed. More in keeping with the atmosphere of the layout.

This gets better and better.......