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  1. I have all of them, and use them according to the job in hand; clearly, thick solder deposits will require a coarser wheel than a surface film. Be a little circumspect when using the coarser grades - you don't want to create a 'dish' in the underlying etch. If in doubt, scrape the bulk of the solder away with a D-shaped scalpel blade, and then polish away the residue with a relatively fine wheel. What you are aiming for is the merest seam of solder visible along the joint; a single wheel, used alone, will get into the narrowest of gaps. Regards, John Isherwood.
  2. For removing excess solder I strongly recommend https://www.moleroda.com/product/small-3m-radial-discs-19mm-25mm/?attribute_size=19mm&attribute_grit=80g+-+(Yellow)+Coarse&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsMXnyLuc5gIVV-DtCh0CtwcJEAQYAiABEgIF4PD_BwE . Available from numerous outlets and in a range of degrees of abrasiveness, they transform a thankless tasc into the work of moments ! Regards, John Isherwood.
  3. I would strongly advocate, as does Tony Wright, a rigid chassis. I've never been able to get reliable running with 'floppy' chassis, whereas rigid chassis seem always to run smoothly for me, at least. A Comet 4F chassis should be fine for your 3F. Regards, John Isherwood.
  4. I believe that the 7Fs had special Ferodo brake-blocks. Regards, John Isherwood.
  5. Stewart, You can add the 4mm. anywhere in the parallel part of the bonnet / battery boxes / running board. If I had been unable to obtain a second body moulding, I intended to laminate some U-shaped layers of plastic card, and attach them to one half of the cut body. I would then have trimmed back the outside of the laminations flush with the outside of the body moulding, and then attached the other half of the cut body. Only when the adhesive had thoroughly cured would I have trimmed back the interior of the laminations. This may seem complex, but it is essential that the two parts of the body are exactly aligned, in order to avoid a 'bendy' body. Alternatively, do as I did and ask Golden Arrow if they can sell you a reject body. If so, cut both bodies at different locations 4mm. apart, so that you can join a long 'front' to a long 'back. Regards, John.
  6. Seems to be grinding a bit at the moment. Regards, John Isherwood.
  7. That's certainly how I read it - whatever, let's leave it at that. Regards, John Isherwood.
  8. No - it's not; merely an observation. As a list member, I understand that I am entitled to post my views; (as, apparently, you are entitled to post sarcasm). Regards, John Isherwood.
  9. ....... and don't forget the hoards of staff, intent on filling the click-and-collect boxes, who scarcely take their eyes off their on-line shopping list devices ! Don't mind me - I'm only a customer ! Regards, John Isherwood.
  10. I have raised the issue with Bachmann via e-mail. Regards, John Isherwood.
  11. BR made a training film about wrong line working on the S&DJR. They were anxious that it shouldn't show any regional associations, so they renamed Shepton Mallet to "Averton Hammer" whilst filming was undertaken, complete with running-in boards. The trouble was, the loco featured was an S&DJR 2-8-0 ! This somewhat gave the game away ! Regards, John Isherwood.
  12. Yes - if 4mm. bothers you that much; (it did me) ! Regards, John Isherwood.
  13. Now that makes a lot of sense. Regards, John Isherwood.
  14. Why? The Golden Arrow resin body is very good and, in conjunction with the available detailing kit, makes up into a totally acceptable model of GT3. Regards, John Isherwood.
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