cctransuk

A year or so before his sad death, I restocked Adrian with transfers for the garage accessories, so they should be somewhere amongst the 7mm. scale stuff that has been acquired. John Isherwood, Cambridge Custom Transfers

They, like any supplier, don't have to justify anything - they produce the product, offer it at a price they think will sell, and if it does; (which it presumably does); fine! (If is doesn't, reduce the price until it does sell). End of! CJI.

Exactly - the aim should be to get the NEM pocket at the correct height as specified by NEM - if that is achieved, a straight couoler will be at the correct height. Using a cranked coupler is simply using one error to correct another error. CJI.

If a NEM pocket fishtail is a little loose in a Parkside bracket, gently squeeze the socket for the fishtail in the bracket with a pair of pliers. This will tighten the fishtail socket so that it grips the fishtail of the NEM pocket. Gently does it - you can always repeat the operation, but an over-squeezed socket is useless! CJI.

The Parkside blocks are correct - it's the Bachmann couplings that are the wrong ones. Yours have a crank in the shaft; you need straight ones; Bachmann make quite a few different sorts. CJI.

Sounds a bit overkill in these days of trying to reduce carbon footprints. CJI.

You are using a cranked coupling which is placing the coupling too low - get straight ones. Cut away the two ridges on the floor where you need to glue the coupling blocks. CJI.

Mine performed faultlessly straight out of the box, and was complete with all its attached details. CJI.

All irrelevant - do a little research and you will find that the CoH issue relates to the later 'crest', which BR sought to have registered as a heraldic device. No such application was made for the first 'crest', and so it could be applied to always face forwards on steam locos. As most mainline diesel and electric locos do not have an easily perceived 'front', the first 'crest' was usually applied to face left. Why do people try to rewrite history rather than acknowledge that they have made a mistake? CJI.

505mm. = 20" / 1'-8"; that's a pretty tight radius for 18000, I'd have thought. CJI.

If anyone needs them, I can supply etched ICI letters and suitable numbering transfers. See the Cambridge Custom Transfers website. John Isherwood.

Is it really necessary to identify the drive arrangements? Suffice to say that the builder has produced an excellent runner, using his / her preferred components. CJI.

I thought that I'd revive this thread since Hattons are virtually giving away the 'Janus model at present. At under £60.00 for the PLA version, I felt that it would be rude not to order one - so I did! It arrived in double-quick time - but I was a little wary as I had seen several postings relating to poor performance. I need not have worried - the loco is smooth, sure-footed and virtually silent. It will pull impressive rakes and is the ideal industrial yard shunter / trip working motive power. I am looking forward to receiving my Planet Industrials 'Victory' 0-6-0T in due course, and the 'Janus' will be repainted to match the green livery of the one that I have ordered. Nameplates have been ordered - 'Vulcan' and 'Hercules' - (Gods of fire and strength); but no ownership markings will be applied, so that the pair can operate in whichever version of my industrial yard and branch is current. If you can use a cheap 'Janus', now is your chance - assuming that Hattons have some remaining! (No connection with Hattons, other than as a satisfied customer). John Isherwood.

Tony, I understand why, to a professional modeller, time might be more of an issue than the cost to the client or the visual intrusion of a partially visible gearbox and / or motor. I also understand that you are personally disinclined to spend time - or to fiddle, as you put it - undertaking the simple task of assembling a motor / gearbox. However, since you seem to feel the need to regularly express your personal preference, there is a body of modellers who will feel compelled to dispel any suggestion that DJH gearboxes are the ultimate solution to most locomotive motorising projects. On consideration of size alone, they are best suited to large locos - your favourite subject - but there are many equally suitable alternatives. At the end of the day, we all have our own way of working, but it concerns me that your repeated glowing endorsements will lead less experienced modellers to dismiss more suitable motorising options for their projects. John Isherwood.

Agreed. Take a Peco thin track pin; trim off the fixing lugs on the brake pull-rod and drill the rod to be a press fit onto the pin; pass the pin through the hole in the bottom of the brake hanger from behind - ie. with the pin head adjacent to the wheel; then press the pin through the brake pull-rod so that most of the pin protrudes away from the wheel; and trim off the surplus pin with cutters. This takes less time to do than to type! CJI.